| Show r ti N THE I t rhA y e ANGE Y S. S vv 4 4 a J V n nI 1 M 7 I y IN 4 11 Y I P 4 Y rh y j I I 4 R J 4 b r I f L AI f Y 14 Y i x I sr o i f 1 1 Y r t I ft it i 1 f I. I t. t 2 3 f t J A Af DECIDED CHANGE CHANGEr FROCKS r NEW IN C t. t r Ch and Crepe de Chine Gowns Made in ill the Simplest Styles Sleeves Styles Sleeves Offer the Interesting New Style Features I and Pleated Bands Lend an Old-Fashioned Old Touch Soft Thin Thin Petticoats Under Narrow Frocks Yoke Frocks Frocks Yoke Effects L t I t The woman who does not POSS possess k i of simple frocks i three or four or-four four little style tyle and expensive fabric this thi fall faU cannot lay claim to an a adequate Yard Yard- ard- ard for rr f r n no matter no-matter matter how handsome the he r with Its Us complement of attractive blouses blouse one simply must musti i I have the little frocks also for after after- n t ear for bridge for lunch- lunch 1 r oni ris and d f for r other da day occasions when I th ho coat J removed The possession of th ll little tI frocks means also of course i. i th the possession of oC a full Cull len length th wrap of oC some sort to tip cover them but such a wr wrap n Is 15 an n essential In ever every wardrobe 1 nowadays s 's and ma may take the form of ot ofa ofa a i gri graceful c C l coat oC of r silk or broadcloth r or a ora tailored utility coat suitable for motoring i Tears Years ago winter gowns ons were cre built roc of woven woven wool woven wool fabrics of cashmere 1 I Panama fad ladys lady's s 's cloth and the like the h rn sn silk io gown iown In cold weather beI be- be I IMP ing rC reserved for formost most forma formal occasions NO Now everything g is dl different worsted dresses are are seen to be tic sure but th thI the I I 1 are of the thinnest lI lightest sort t and the satin dress Is li the favorite of or orf f the hour h hour Satin In the morning Is IsI I never vcr tolerated ted b by the rea really l well well- dressed woman WOIn but such a costume may mayhe he be donned at the edge of or morning for luncheon if If desired and it Is If probable I that three fourths o of the luncheon tea an and bridge bridge- gowns turned turnell out by the this fall will be of or the im- im r fashionable or of or orI I clinging crepe do de chine which comes I next In favor Brocaded crepes with wILh satiny figures In sel self color on a crepe de do chine ground are arc the more costly materials and a ne new chiffon velvet olvet so soft sott and thin that It may be accordion pleated and then used In panier effect without bulkiness Is la an Interesting autumn gown material A stunning three piece costume b by ne Bechoff Bec Bec- hoff David shows shon's a double flounced skirt of oC this thin velvet olvet the waist being be- be ing of oC black satin in Mario arle Stuart ef effect effect effect ef- ef with a draped collar and tiny frill trill at the neck A tailed long-tailed coat o of the velvet cutaway In front falls over the double flounced velvet skirt These flounces do not depart an iota from the chastened straight lines now favored There Is not the least flare at the tho bottom of oC the flounces tapes being run at Intervals across the pleating on the wrong rong side Nav Navy blue and the tho samo same ma material In taupe of a very dark wood brown are arc favored by byer er very high class dressmakers and It seems likely that there will wUl be he a strong rivalry between na navy and dark brown for tor aristocratic favor or All shades of or smoke and metal J gray and taupe gra gray are arc ire promised especial favor also and there are certain certain certain tain shades of or plum and raisin that tho t thac have ha been Leen taken up b by the best couturiers cou cou- Subdued colorings however are arc the rule brightness and youthfulness youthful youthful- ness being lent h by the cut and h by trimmings of metallic and worsted embroideries em em- motifs formal bows of rich ribbons In Oriental colorings colorIngs color- color Ings InAs bead beall trimmings and above all ali bv by laces laceR Lace Is immensely fashionable fashion fashion- able and though skirt flounces Jounces of oC lace are arc debarred In the street gown for tor winter wear lace laco berthas frills trills and Jabots are arc g generously employed employed em em- on bodices Silk and wool poplins silk agarics in new East Indian printings sponge weaves and pompadour prints are shown among the more expensive fabrics for bridge and tea costumes and there Is a worsted and mohair fabric which is sturdy In weave for or all Its suppleness and lustrous texture and which is highly favored by Paris dressmakers for unpretentious afternoon afternoon afternoon after after- noon dresses A charming frock of this kind by Is of this penno perno fabric or wool and mohair material In Ina Ina ina a wood brown shade with a knee length tunic above a skirt of oc narrow knife pleats each pleat being stitched fast taut all the way down The surplice bodice crosses over overa avest a vest of ot tan moire silk corded at the top and within tills this 1 i is a corded tucker of creamy net which reaches to tho throat The sleeves like all fashionable sleeves now reach to the wrist where the they are arc finished with trim trimly fitting turned back cuffs cutts of at the moire silk A short sash of at this silk is looped through a narrow belt Equally EQuall Interesting Is a frock of ot navy blue which has a along along long sash trimmed with black fringe at one side of ot the front j i the satin salin being draped In a long panier I effect at the thc back The feature of this frock aside from the long wrist tight ed cd sleeve SICe set act into a loose low armhole Is the collar Standing In front of oC the wearer of the frock you OU see a pretty little turnover collar of e eyelet work and lace not more more than two Inches I wide and rounded at the corners This collar turns tUrn back from a of or thin shadow lace finished with a boned honed stock Go around behind the frock Crock however and you arc are surprised b by a striking brilliant color touch in the shape of or a deep sailor collar falling Calling almost to the waistline and md made of oC printed Oriental silk crepe In rose and mauve shades This deep sailor collar is attached to th the back of the frock at atthe l the shoulder seams cams and shows not at nil all from the front Such collars are a feature of oC autumn frocks for Cor afternoon wear Both of OC these pretty Paris frocks were narrow as to skirt and short enough h to show a smart buttoned boot Paris just now Is daft over o the gaiter boot with buttons set down tho the outside outside out out- side sille In a A. straight line and with a curved eur Louis heel to lift the foot Into coquettish lines These boots have a dainty frivolity that appeals to the and the they are being taken UD up In America fa for l' l wear with er very elaborate ela ela- borate gowns for Cor state occasions For general afternoon wear however the American woman prefers a neat walkIng walking walk walk- Ing boot of patent leather with a buttoned buttoned buttoned but but- toned top of oC dull kid kill or cloth and a n. Cuban heel as high but not as frivolous as the curved Louis t type pc The da day of gowns buttoned buttoned buttoned but but- toned straight down the front and with straight narrow little skirts attached to a high waistline is over The new frocks tracks are still simple in style but they arc are no longer and tho the front model odel must be reserved now for tor a foundation unde undo undo un un- un- un do de ra drapery of ot tact chiffon Everything Everything Every Every- thing Is draped unless draped unless It Is 15 pleated pleated- as far tar as skirts are concerned and as asfor asfor astor for tor bodices shoulder lines still sag lag and droop over the arm but there Is a defInite definite def def- definite armhole made emphatic by a corded corded corded cord cord- ed piping If It In no other way and lo located located lo- lo anywhere between shoulder Joint and elbow These corded s are everywhere on the outline seams scams and andare andare andare are used to finish edges of at sleeves slee belts bodices and collars The They are arc the sign manual of oC 1912 13 modes and though h the they aro arc a great deal of ot trouble trouble trou trou- ble blo to put in the home dressmaker should use them generously for tor they ther add a touch of up-to up the moment the moment smartness that no amateurish cut can quite destro destroy Yokes are arc another modish modIsh modish mod mod- ish new style feature and the tho corded yoke Is the vcr very essence of at chic These yokes ol es extend out to form a long Shoulder der line tho the being attached midway midway mid mid- way ay between shoulder and elbow and md reaching to the wrist This gives tho the gown a deliciously old suggestion which Is doubled d If It the tho bodice is confined confined con con- fined at the waist under a sash and anda a narrow turned down collar and brooch finish the neck Brooches of or I JL metal with sunken Imitation stones In amber sapphire and amethyst colorings colorIngs colorings color- color Ings are matched by oblong sash and belt buckles and some som gowns of ot char- char meuse or messaline have lon long oval belt buckles covered with the material laid on In tiny radiating pleats A charming gown own by Francis shows a pleated knife petticoat of oC tapestry blue over o which Is draped a sided one-sided of at steel gray chil- chil chilton fon ton At the right side the panier falls straight to the knee a row of ot cut steel buttons and buttonholes running down the front The other side of ot the panier Is ig draped back under tho the hip joining the right side at the back bacle under a sash panel of oC the satin atin The surplice bod body of or gra gray chiffon Is draped over tapestry blue satin a of or co coral coral coral co- co ral satin with turned back revers showing at the front This gown has hag a belt bel t of ot steel beaded gray velvet vel cl velvet vel- vel vet finished with a steel buckle 1 AN AX ELABORATE BRIDGE RIDGE GOWN O SHOWING rn NEW FEATURES This rather tuss fussy gown Is Intended for a n tall slender woman and Its de design design design de- de sign shows many a now and InterestIng Interesting interesting Interest- Interest Ing stylo style feature It Is built of taupe colored all seams and ed edges es being finished with tho the now modish corded piping The panier drapery on tho the skirt Is graceful and moderate the skirt being l kept ePt entirely subordinate to the very elaborate bodice with Its vest cst and bertha draped low over o the bust and the sleeve extending over O the hand and set Into a low corded armhole 2 SEVERAL INTERESTING NEW XE FEATURES FEATURES FEA FEA- TURES TUBES IN THIS rillS TEA HOUR FROCK Built of or soft soH crepe meteor In a new shade of ot porcelain blue this dainty tea-hour tea frock shows many features which will Interest the tho searcher after new brand fashions The long dered bodice with It Its loose c lines line and wide wido collar tho the wrinkled sleeve fitting at the wrist and set Into the shoulder with cording the tho belt bolt with its fabric covered buckle and especially the sided one-sided panier distinguishes this little frock as an authoritative autumn model One side of or tho panier Is looped under Just above tho the knee At theother tho the other side the panier is draped over the hip to show the tho skirt A chic hat and boots of or patent leather with dull calf buttoned tops accompany the frock 3 LONG LINES EXPRESSED RY nY TillS THIS BEAD DEAD TRIMMING A wool embroidered banding In brown and green with small dull gold and bronze beads Incorporated in its design gives brightness to this afternoon afternoon after atter noon dress dresa of ot dull olive-brown olive voile volle over green taffeta Tho The arrangement of ot the band trimming suggests sugs-ests long lines and lends height and dignity to the figure The sleeve Is an Interesting Interesting interesting Inter Inter- esting feature of at this new costume and shows the old-fashioned old flowing above an of at gathered mull Black calf cat boots with buttoned tops and moderate Cuban heels accompany this simple afternoon dress 4 GRACE CE AND ND NOVEL LINES I IN THIS IRIS SIMPLE COSTUME Yoke Toke motifs are to be bo all aU the fashIon fashion fashIon fash- fash Ion according according- to early prophecies and when well handled these motifs are aro be becoming becoming becoming be- be coming and youthful In effect This simple gown of ot nav navy blue satin satin sat sat- in has a loose yoke toke to which waist and sleeves arc are attached with corded s. The skirt has a new looped drapery draper at one side and Is trimmed effectively with small satin s. ball but but- tons A collar of ot buff burt satin satin sat sat- in with a a. tie of cyclamen silk gives color to the dark costume G 6 A CO COMBINATION OF SIMPLICITY AND COSTLINESS Overdresses of ot wide lace veiling foundation gowns of ot pastel tinted satin satin satin sat sat- in are ono one of at tho the style notes for evenIng oven oven- Ing lag This tunic of ot Chantilly lace bce Is dropped over a a. gown of oC tan satin the tan beIn being almost a buff bull In it Its cato cate tint The rhe model Is simple de dethe des the rich materials employed ed and Isable is s sable sable able for Cor debutante with Its girlish and 11 little t collar and brooch at neck This simplicity Is In strong chic contrast to the expensive e j jand s. s and Chantilly lace used In the bullof bull build of or the gown The brooch and buckle match and are both of oC steel with Ith amber Black slippers and stockings complete the costume |
