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Show AFUS FASH ION $ jfM TES T Styles in Crepe de Chine and yp Taffeta Silk Gocwns.: A. jg- - A. f-v:&:-- '-v-st:- SV. ; ::. I .' ; ., ) i V . fc5S?cM;;F I ft. V; .. y-JCrr1 Cray Crepe de Chine Gown NlYnWi fhoio Coprrlthl. J910. by I..u)lnrr .tjTJlUS-' ExcIuMte CopjTlKht. 10K. N York MLSil "frB"1 ::-r u-H &m:J?m fc&m . I I White Voile de Soic and Liberty Satin. Gown iJ- l'liulo by fell Kif Exclusie Copyright. J!10. Nfw Vork fc h I Hrrnld is wroiiplit by j v-')7' i. Nattier Blue Crcpou Gown i C rimlo f'opvriBlU. ll). by niilliott b-w 1 Licluive Copvrlchl. 10W. Nev Vork" ? Il.roll , r , , Z V deed, has uot b'-en fnshiouuMc for h long time, 0Dc, p s yet. tnnnut bo ronnti-d ns aun.Dg Hpubr fahrieis, but it is to be notiwd in ninny of the wry Inteht iiioiJu' gowns. Cn'pe de Chine never entirely retires from tln lielrj of populiir nppnot. 1 for it baa mure in irer.nnnend It ilian nb , most nny fnlrie that is known. For hc.ii-' mer the lisliter weicbts nre delicbl fully comfortable, even in the hottest weaiher;! jll rlenDs and even launders nitisfnetorily, i ond; while delightfully nofl ud RUpple, I it still has enough firmness to enubbi it j to be made into skirt nnd coat costumes, , as well ns the Empire jimn. There lire 10 ! erpo de Chine many different we.ivej and textures. eery color of the rainbow and' many not associated with if, and there' is a dull and n brisht finish, so surely nny woman can find what she lik.v The; ntin finish .-iV-je de Chine is difficult to distinguish at firt ulnnce from -the I.iiv-' erty natin that is in omo v (he qiuli-J tics but it is the fibbn lo combine the two, and then the poiuts of contrast or easily discernible. Most praetiml for! Miminer is the onttier blue rrf je de Chin? ! the ncldltiou of embroidered or lace bandi It is extremely difficult ns the seabol 'advances i0 dictiite authoritatively as t what shall or shall not he worn. Not only cuMomeis but dressmakers nod de-"icners de-"icners are apparently groping Jq tbo dnr!; trying to find some one fashion that can be pronounced the one and only. The leading dressmakers and tailors speak firmly hout the retnru of the full t,kirt and take orders galore for the narrowest 8kilt ll,at "" be madn. The waist Jioe must be normal, nnd, again, gown galoro ore turned out with the wnist line IncliM bighcr than was over knowii in normal anatomy. Heavily trimmed skirts are "bUs-iforj- and broken lines a feature of lb" very litest designs, so will My an nuthoriiy on drew, who in the same breath counsels the purchase of .i most cotly ovrning gown whose great . beauty lies in Ibe unbroken lnj,-., that define to perfection per-fection every line of the figure. Most generally gen-erally unbecoming are a majority of the present day Myles, so perhaps it is Iho li.Hinct of the true artist designer warring with her sene of n lt-i-. r, t,. T,- Gray Taffeta Gown with Lace Flounces and Black Velvet Ribbon 'y-'? Mnion 1 recoil ''.s: Thole Cepvihhl. 1010. Vv Rentlinjor ' " ticlu.Mvc L'opvrlshi. 1'JIU, Ntw Voik .... HeraW Wr BY MRS. A. T. ASHMORE. Coral Pink Silk Gown with Guipure Lace MiitMju Ori'Oll I'hoto Copyritht. l!)pi. by Reullio;rr Cxdueivc C'oioiishl, U1), Nw Voik llrt.U I or siik enpon, made simply and trimmed either with Inre ihu same color ur with s.itin the same shade. The popular model for this style of jmn is extremely simjile. but so Miiart as to moke it noticeable iu o group of more elnbonie nnd com plica tof! costumes. The skirt Ih nuite unlike nny of the models yet cxhibileil. narrow, bull not aggressively s'ant, with only a bias' fold at the hem; the waist is loose, ,n (hr iblousc ordi-r, and yet dop.s not conceal anji i;ood lines of the figure, but it.i veryi formation as can be and is wrought by these touches of a skilled hand it is almost al-most impossible to realize. A simple dinner gown, also possible for theatre and restaurant, is i quaint mode! made up in dark pink tiitfetn. Hows of puffs or wide shirred bands trim the lower part of I he skirt, while the upper pari and the body of the wnist is of fold after fold of the silk drawn tight around the figure Around the square cut neck is tlx? softening of a flat band of guipure bice, while there run Vie, if desired, bands of the same la'.-e in place of the shirred j bauds or just aliove (he puffs, but there is; .no other Ininraing ou the goivu. "tjuaint"' "piel uresipie," "obi fashioned" are some of the adjectives applied to ihil model. whi h is certainly radically different from any of last season's designs. Taffeta silk evening gowns are evidently lo be popular this Milium r, for another model thai has met with favor is a pjlo blue one with llat bauds of guipure lace edged with narrow Valenciennes ruchiug The skirt is full and wide, gathered Into (be licit; the waist is pointed hark ami front, tits light the Iigure. .iii'l the iriuiuilng i'oi;nbts of a liehn of the silk trimmed with lie ruehing !of Valenciennes lo mulch the f.kirt. A while f:i ff ft a on the .same model, with j Fashion that makes it oil s0 complicated I n problem. I Length of New Gowns. A disagreeable feature 0f the newest tgowns is the length; an all round skirt, as it is colled, must more than t .urh the ground all around, and be a trifle longer nt Ihe hack. High heeled slippers are positively essential with these skirls, aod si ill more fsscnti.il is the re-hen rsing of bow to walk in them. The satin or silk lining of the kirt is so close that it has lo be pulled down after the gown Is pot on to prevent any wrinkle or folds, for bands of shirred chiffon and flusters of tiny pink lusi-j, is alsu bc-i-omitis and cf- ' f CllVf. I Crepe de Chine nnd crcpou are two material? ma-terial? that for a short time have beeu relegated to the background. Cropon, lu- plaio and very siropb It can he made jio any color nnd will look well, while it! Icau bo elaborated upon if so desired by' I TAKFKTV silk is in fashion oirc again, ns n:ight have been cx- pectcd with the revival of Ihe old time style of gown with Ilonnees and ruchiugs, and there is more than a hiut of ihe days ff Ihe civil war in the taffeta silk gowns now exhibited as the very latest models. There are so many different grades in taffeta silk (lint Uig sch-ilion is not an easy task. This season the softer n'"'i-ties n'"'i-ties and ilrvte with a dull lustre leurious anoiuuly '. I are the smartest. Change, able t fleets, own w hen nil one colur. are considered to be the best, and ct among the plain there are colorings sol exquisitely njft and becoming that surely! nothing else could be selected, and the . w ide range of colors that is provided to I choos from penults lu fact, ileniauds that what is becoming must decide the ; tiuestion. "A gray taffeta silk gown with black luce (Jounces and black velvet ribbon" at om-e is brought to the remembrance the portraits of fifty years ago the gentle-woman gentle-woman in her flounced taffeta, with the flounces of rare thread laV or taffeta nnd the bands of bhick vchot ribbon heading earh flounce and outlining the bcrlha or drhii. To-clay's rendering of the same style L, much the same. The skirt is narrower, the flounces uot so full, but that the same mod.-l served as inspiration in-spiration cannot be oueslioued. Old Fashioned Colors Revived. :rny, rwaeh color, torn -oor, a-dies of ross, all r.!d fnshionod eolors. ar,. in Mvl and 'he rhnntilly lae, ih.nt wer ued for trimming in the days gone bv are once : apain In high fav.r. I:,lt ihe .Ipvjsoialc- lug of to-day is a far more snhtle art, and ; n'or'" a!Cl'nlio i" lid to the individual , that ,f flJ, ,Un u hopft,(.sT un. ' t-coming the width is ,no,t rlnvorlv nn.nlp- ! Ulnled and different lines are secured by j ouie marvellous nisinipuUition of the mu- ; trrial. If the baud of velvet heading each flounce makes to,, broad at. eft.-,-,, then bo. or rosettes of velvet are add to break the line. The lac of the Hounees is most carefully adjured, mide neither oo unt nor too full, and ucli a trans- jihey would show through the double or triple thickness of any of the Iransiiarent niatcrials or en n under a foulard or tatin. , The lining do-s not reach to the ground, but is finished with neant nifflcs of iuouse-line iuouse-line de soic or heavy chiffon. It is not fashionable to have a drop skirt for a serge or cloth costume and even tbe separate sepa-rate silk skirt is cousidered unnecessary, but a compromise has been insisted upoO and obtained by a lining of satin or soft finish silk made in with the material. This gives a softness and finish that is far more satisfactory than if the rough fabric Is unlined, and at the same lime lakes far !-m room than even the most of scant separate skirts. Another of the noticeable freaks of fashion this season is (In- skirl with the upper .part tightly drawn ba-;k around tho hips nnd the lower port of the ekirt apparently much wider than with tbo narrow straight skirt. ' This is an old time model revived to the despair of those women who, still young enough to enjoy smart clothes, bavo a distinct and painful remembrance cf tho days of Iheir girlhood when tbit Mii'0 style was fashionable. Iu those day the skirls were much wider around the lower part, kij perhaps in the eyes of the world dressmaker w ho make a seience of drcs do know better how to attack the problem prob-lem oud will know how to d.-ap materials mate-rials jn su-h wi. that the figure till no' be uulirdy dibtijureiJ. |