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Show 1 i I : ' The Simple Notels Sounded Atfedn 1 ft X X A BY SABA MARSHALL COOK I Distinctive Lines w that the -oasun in Paris1 I; V 1! beginning to open from a 1 standpoint Mi- Pan- 1 sienne, more and more con-tttwn con-tttwn is Riven of the simplicity iPPimilinginodcs. ;G, ono dresa-Mer dresa-Mer reports the sale ..f anything Hlaboraie. While some of them are j PtfirEto believe that if , ,.niv l,e-HP l,e-HP of the deire for that" first j :jP" dress that les chic? Pnrisiennes i Wjje unanimously chosen, girlish J rothful styles, in the minds of jytbij mit,ai selection augurs a i I gjieason of like effects. In a nut i,thls means holding on in no IEi mt to !traight lines and to ETT 5kut? Interesting dc-lrjhav- added, which in no K Wrict the general note, jUEt the mark "f d.stinc-Wrtween d.stinc-Wrtween this season's and last, uofl s models. ftjj J'ber of women have ' law" lh flrsl ,irf'" crepe mm browns, and with this al- ElMrn"matchine fu length Imedwith the same crepe BflU..reSI", Th carIy autumn ft 8UCcess of e nu- "Ve.Tvplfy ! jl Gauntlet Cuff doing a rec0n buf, aliw type f ou.! Slrtin dre underneath 5ft it , ' an,! color that " fc, evening lt dLRtbethear,there8-SSSi. dLRtbethear,there8-SSSi. ?,r dini"g with t, i,lc Te full gamut !lll-rt'UranH Ke-lOPCOat ften has o;utr byChanci Ptd in v " s Pftce. It is 0 c'Pe Marocain Shth Cnti0n t0 novelty Sh a;C::inl"eing color mrS ir, have Kthl f UP?,dc d0n and rtlaeS, Pandmg flare, 1 a PaDds Whirh s I give them an interesting flare while remaining simple. The Jenny model illustrated on this page shows all of these features: the sleeves with quadruple cufT flares, the. skirt with triangular panels, and last, but not least, the high collar which shows a broad streak of bare neck just at the prettiest point. Lanvin Harks Back To the Renaissance ANVIN is. still very enthusiastic about period or costume style She will have nothing 'of modern kind in her new dresses, but harks back to early Italian and French Renaissance costume styles for both form and detail. Acceding, however, to the general vogue for simplicity, she often confines herself to the introduction in-troduction of a smart sleeve, or she adds 8 few flatly placed tiers of cloth outlining a sort of oerskirt effect This she does so cautiously that the dress remains extremely plain in effect. She even ventures to put smocking on her sleeves, but in so discreet a way that it gives no offense. One of her most successful period dresses is shown above. It is developed de-veloped in black velvet of a most supple quality and royal purple crepe of that heavy but soft quality which comes direct from China. The sleeves arc pure Italian Renaissance, I with their tightly smocked puff full-ness. full-ness. The little overskirt is most discreetly flared. Great emphasis is placed by Lanvin on the use of royal purple, particularly in combination with other colors. Recalling in no small degree the type of costume worn by Juliet in the famous Shakespearean tragedy are new models by Doucet. These have the full wnst-length sleeves with mittenliko extension and the heavy cord girdle encircling the hips twice, through which the pufflikc drapery of the skirl is often drawn Sketched above is a loely example j of this type developed in black satin with gold embroidery done on black net to form the yoke and sleeves. A heavy note of gold is again repeated in the girdle, which is made of gold ribbon with a long tassel ornament at one side. Low-Hanging Draperies In the Egyptian Manner GNS is making some lovely dresses of black satin, which are exquisitely embruidered in white and silver. These make a perfect toilette for semi-ceremonious dinners, , r - .... iii l '" Reading from the left Callot model of blade crepe embroidered in violet, green, blue and yellow. Taffeta dress from Agnes named Barcarolle, Bar-carolle, having a sk'irt which simulates a hoop skirt. Period dresses from Lanvin, developed in blade velvet and royal purple crepc. The smocked puif sleeves are of the Italian Renaissance t)pe. Another Agnes model. Bagatelle, having the skirt made up of a succession of taffeta mffles. Jenny dress of crepe Marocain, showing the attention which slic pavs to novelty detail. Black satin frock from Doucet, typical of the dicss worn hv Juliet in Shakespeare' s play. The yoke and sleeves are formed of black net embroidered in Zold, and the double girdle is of heavy gold ribbon. One of Gabricllc Chanel s successes of this season developed in beige crepe Marocain. The draped bkirt is having a big vogue. Callot has made a number of the low-hanging draperies somo-what somo-what in Egyptian scarf style. This drapery gives a rather dressy effect to even the simplest model. It ix particularly striking when the fabric used ii of a high color. One notes many chiffon velvets in vivid flame ! red, turquoise blue and shrimp ilk. The beaded velvet dress is claim-t claim-t ing much attention. This is practically practi-cally always in high color, beaded in self-tone crystal and steel. Some charming things for afternoon are being developed in black elvet with cashmere bead embroidery, the color i as well as the design beins; distinctly Persian. This follows in the train the use of Persian printed silks and j velvets. Taffeta is by no mean-; a neglected material. Particularly is this true I of a youthful type of dancing frock. Agnes specializes on models of this type, and she is having great following follow-ing among American tourists and visitors to Paris. While the wide-skirted wide-skirted taffeta dress was first launched as a robe pour jeune fille, I it is bring very much used now by young matrons vho desire to retain a youthful appearance. Two Taffeta Frocks In Exquisite Colorings AGNfiS has two models which are particularly youthful, one called Barcarolle and the other Bagatelle. Both of these models arc illustrated above. One haa a flaring skirt simulating a hoop skirt and the other shows the skirt built up of a succession of overlapping bias folds, which assume almost the appearance appear-ance of flare ruffles. These models are being made in exquisite shades of taffeta turquoise, melon, salmon pink, almost green and a trans- I lucent tone called "Vert d'eau." I |