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Show the Vogue for Black Makes Economy in Dress "Delightful" I I he ocue for vest of contrating rolor and fabric it evidenced 1:1 both suit and dresses. Here i illustrated how cffcclive such a combination may be, especially when the vest fabric i as. interesting a- 111 tlu illustration Tlie chic hat should likewise come in for attention, for 11 it one of the bc:-t examples of the scmitailorcd mode. By Edith If. Burtis RESPITE time which we nre en couraged to believe adjusts diffl cult les. erases misunderstandings, dulls disappointment, the regrets of shattered shat-tered illusions and clarifies opinions and judgments, we arc still hearing a great deal of impractical chattel about economies And women's dress seems to be an especially favored topic for those who know least about this subject from the. economic standpoint- Crantcd that there have been in the past, and possibly still are. many willful will-ful extravagances of dress among .1 small minority of women, 1 believe today that the big majority of women Bre endeavoring to be consistently economical in matters of dress; and with this thought in mind I am quite fure my readers are interested In any suggestions that will help toward an Intelligent economy in dress. I believe you must be quite familiar with my ideas regarding the influence ot clothes upon women's mentality. Hie desirable effect of good clothes and L the responsibility we should recognize f BS to the effect of our appearance upon others. You must know that I think the right clothes help to keep us well, happy and efficient; that I endeavor always to give you suggestions that rover the ethical points in dress and suggest plans of practical procedure. Fashion, which you must know but reflects the thought of a nation, in many ways this season makes the way eas for practical dress economy. and In no detail of fashion is a more feasible plan permitted, a more delightfully de-lightfully reasonable and altogether acceptable assistance offered than in the vogue of black From time to time the press has exploited the opinion of prominent women on the subject of mourning apparel, ap-parel, and from my knowledge of these opinions it would seem that mourninc clothes ai e iuitc generally disapproved disap-proved My thotlght Is that this is a decision too painfully personal to be decided by any one but those who aro bereaved. The wearing of black, mourning black, should not be influenced influ-enced by anything but the personal feelings of the individual, customs, conventionalities, public opinion should not determine this matter of the wear ing of mourning. And this brings me to the big point that smart black apparel and mourning mourn-ing apparel are two separate and dis- tinct things. Fashion's approval of smart black and black-and-white combination is a means to a practical dress economy, and it is some of these modes and their advantages that I wish to brine: to your attention today Once you possess a black gown, your wardrobe Is never likely to be without one; but there are unfortunately many women who recognize only two uses for black apparel mourning and ad vanced maturity. The fact is that all ages and conditions con-ditions of women can wear black, provided pro-vided they select the right fabric and MImT. MM ! I II 1 g n .. . I M : J i I HE S I ' ' joei ra Color value are uol tuuallj to be found in black gowns, for it is not often that inch on effective fabric combination conceived: In tni lovelj black gown ilk marquisette over a silk foundation, silk braid tind u collar of white georgette produce the rolor values that make for f interest aud tuiart ttvle. I Fi'hion Cimm Un hue- (f charming and modish simplicity is this dainty afternoon euil of black -aim with white and having a collar of white salin trimmed cleverly with i simple embroidery motif Similar motif- accentuate the fashionable po id outline ! the jacket and the Hared sleeves. The bin 1- fashionably narrow, yd not impracticable for walking Above in circle Black milan ?raw and an interesting and modish trimming oi glazed satin ribbon were combined to make this delight-fully delight-fully youthful .ind swagge: hat. This is the type of hat a young girl can wear with good effect, jiim tin- 1- trn- slso of ihe. black suit when llio jack-M has s smart white vest bound in black j- tin- one see to it that tho garment, whether gown, blouse or suit, permits of tho right proportion of white about the face and neck. And then, of course, as in any selection selec-tion of apparel, the design must bo on lines that suit the fabric and the flguro requirements of the wearer. My choice in black gowns Is for charmingly charm-ingly simple and dignified models, such as the three lovely ones shown today. These are modes that any woman of refinement should delight in wearing; and should give hot real pleasure, and will, I know, permit of a development of practical economy in dress. This thought we should always remember that there are very desirable models today in both black and colored garments gar-ments that make tho way to economy in dress easy and agreeable. Color values aro not usually to be found in black garments, but there aro times when the right fabric com-blLatiun com-blLatiun develops this desirablo fea ture, and such is true in the effective black gown of silk marquisette over a silk'foundation Silk braid and a collar of whlto georgette help to produce the color values that make for decided Interest In-terest In this ftnart style. This is the type of dress that can be put on In the morning and worn all day without tho wearer having one thought as to the appropriateness of her costume. The thin silk lining and transparent sleeves make it especially desirable for warm weather. Of a splendid black crepe de chlno is the dignified dress with the long plaited tunle. This dress is enhanced by the good-taste collar and vest ot white organdie, and these accessories make it possiblo for any woman to wear a black dress; for, irrespective of complexion or coloring, black can be worn if the right proportion of white is used about the nock. Sheer black may be worn by ox-tremely ox-tremely young wagfjK biack, I be- BaaaaBBasaaBBBBBmaM-i Joel f -J-r Of a splendid black crepe de hinc is this dignified and good taste gown with collar and vet of white organdie, the cn-p beauty of which makes for general gen-eral becomingness; and this 1- a point not alu.i-understood alu.i-understood that everj m an irrespective of complexion com-plexion and coloring can wear black if the right proportion pro-portion of white is uced about the neck. Jlee. only looks old when the fabric Is too heavy or too elaborate. The essence of refinement seems to be a fitting description for the third black dress, and. while this is decidedly conservative in style, it is not lacking m fashionable smartness. This is the type of gown a woman wears with complete assurance that she is well and appropriately dressed for the busy dayg she now enjoys and notice that I say enjoys, for 1 believe firmly we are all happier when every moment of our day is crowded with practical and helpful activities and responsibilities The black gown under discussion In of georgette crepe, tucked With fagoting fag-oting and having a pretty collar and cuff set in white georgette: these, of course, are detachable, which adds to the practicability of the garment, and. being cool, this is a delightful warm-weather warm-weather dress. effective black-and-white combinations combina-tions arc a fashion of the moment and this vogue is pleasingly shown in tho interesting: separate skirt of sc-mlsport design. This skirt is of foulard, and. while the model is a gathered one. It still retains the fashionable slim silhouette. sil-houette. White pearl buttons fasten the crush belt In a rather new way and outllno the pocket laps that mark the pocket openings. Worn with a crisp white organdie waist or ono of georgette crepe, one has in this typo of skirt a very smart and comfortable costume. The vogue for vests of contrasting Color and fabric is evidenced in both BUits and dresses, and the model shown today does. I think, very convincingly illustrate the effectiveness of theso accessories. ac-cessories. This material is. of couisc, unusual in design, and. while tho costume cos-tume Is of black, a similar vest can be worn with a blue suit with equally good effect The chic hat should likewise like-wise come In for your attention, for it is one of the best semltallorcd modes of the season. It is a black milan straw, with a brim finish of closely plaited ribbon and a smart wing laid flat on the brim in the most approved fashion. Also of black milan straw Is the interesting in-teresting and modish hat trimmed with a bow of unusual size and detail of glazed satin ribbon. This is a delightfully de-lightfully youthful and swagger hat. the type of hat a young girl can wear with good effect, and this Is also true of the black suit when the jaekot has a smart vest of whito bound in black, an has this one. On lines of charming and modish asHgnnaJ! simplicity Is the dainty afternoon suit Of black satin. This smart suit is lined with while and has a collar of whito satin trimmed cleverly with a simple ombroidcry motir done in black; siml-'ar siml-'ar motifs in black-and-white accentuate accentu-ate the fashionable pointed outline of the Jacket and the flared sleeves. The kirt is fashionably narrow, yet not Impracticable for walking. Such a suit is l valuable addition to any wardrobe, Faibiun Caoirr The effectiveness of black and white combination; is convincingly expressed in this interesting separate sep-arate skirt of -enmport design. It 1- a gathered model, vet despite its fullne-H retains the slim silhouette. silhou-ette. White pearl buttons fasten the crush belt in a rather new way and outline the porket laps that mark the pocket opening'. as It is dressy enough for special oc- I caslons and yet not too elaborate fox I general wear; being of a glossy satin I it has no suggestion of maturity and I could not be mistaken for mourning I attire, because of the gloss of tht I fabric and the effective use of white, I My thought is not that a woman's I wardrobe should be made up princl- I pally of black, but I do feel that a I black dress is a practical standby, and I It can, if one prefers, be brightened up I hv .i tmirh of color effected bv a rib- I bon girdle, artificial flowers or by the accessories which are worn with tu Black-and-white combinations have a certain vogue each spring; like navy blue, this dress combination is always in good taste, and for separate skirts like the one illustrated is particularly desirable There is. too, an undeniable smartness in a oiacK-ana-wnue cos- ssj tume, whether it is dress or suit, and the value of a black-and-white check coat to the young girl's wardrobe is IH generally known, for some time during her life virtually every girl possesses oi.e. What Is not so well understood are the advantages of having a smart black silk or black satin wrap, either one of the now ewpes or cape coats, in the summer wardrobe. lljjjl ' ' This lovely black gown expresses the essence of J I emulative ia not lacking in smart style It is the type; of gown -woman wear, with complete assurance that she .s well and I WJ priately dresaed for the busy days she now has Georgette crape tucked" with fagOtiM and pin tucked collar aud coffs ol white georgette is the effective fabric and trimming combination. ! - I |