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Show . "1" if'' -M- N: f l svOi 51' 9 ' fL iPi DOINGS IN FASHIONDOM TQ&m HI Big Sleeves and Mary Other In- ' M IbP ' novations are Planned ' (Wm fr tne Season. BY MRS. KINGSLEY. jnj OT a few of the very smartest HUp . shops on this side of the water LJaJ3 have given the big sleeves a conspicuous placo in their newest models. Those who have been privileged to sec these new frocks with their bouffant adornment have first gasped with dismay, then promptly succumbed to the dictates of fashion and purchased a gown of this kind. Whether or not tho average woman will wear the big sleeve remains to be seen. But the truth Is that the average aver-age woman did deck herself in this balloon fashion twenty years ago, and what she did once she is apt to do again. Gray is one of the leading colors oi the spring and summer. There is nc use cavilling at.gray because it is not thought becoming; there are many shades of it and careful choosing will avoid later regret. Taffeta and several other weaves ol silk seem to have taken hold of this gray dye in a satisfying manner, and some of the new frocks of silver graj taffeta with quaint little Britannj aprons done in mauvo silk and caughl with rosebuds, arc delightful. In evening gowns there arc quite sumptuous gray brocades with dashes of silver or gun metal to givo then: character; these are trimmed with exceptionally ex-ceptionally well tarnls"hed silver lace and that new kind of gun metal lace which was brought about through the adoption of gray as a fashionable color. col-or. For street frocks there aro graj gabardines and serges, also jcrsej cloth, plain, or with borders of colored stripes. There aro a vast number oi gray separato blouses also in the shops, and of gray tulle nnd satin combinations com-binations there is no ond.NIf one thinkj it is not becoming it is quite ear.y te touch it up with splashes of color tha will redeem it. . Stone brown 'and black and a sof elephant gray and black havo a dis tinguished charm of tholr own foi frocks, and in both cases the blacl may be distributed in the form of i narrow braid skirt binding, tho hlf pockets slung from a loose belt, and r binding of the bodice to which tull sleeves appertain. Little tassels lool well Instead of buttons on the bodice It is only natural, that fashion foi gray ' brings in a vast variety of th( metallic composition known as gur metal. Large Puritan buckles of it ar used on belt, hugo bullet-shaped buttons but-tons of it are used to fasten coats ane basques. In addition to the fashion of graj there has come about the Introductioi of Puritan collars on both basques ane coats. The fashion for the cape is already al-ready so pronounced that one is begin- ning to see all manner of adaptations of it in lesser forms. Collars havo ad- vanccd from three inches to ten and touch the shoulder line or hang below ', it. Sometimes they are made of the material of the gown and sometimes they are of organdie. ; The newest frocks, though simple, t have quaint touches about them that . i give 'them subtlety. Ono seen recently. , made in primrose yellow taffeta had a . delicious effect that immediately lifted i It out of tho commonplace. Round the hem of tho skirt and short baseiuo round the bodice the taffeta was loop- cd up to look like the ruffled window - blinds that the most expensive and ex-I ex-I elusive dressmakers have for their windows. Inside each puckered loop- . : ing was a water lily of palest pink. i Otherwise the frock was very plain, just swathed round tho waist with a r wide belt of silver tissue. , : Somo of the latest models have been ' copied from Greuzc pictures. Their r colorings aro of the most delicate pas-, pas-, tel shades, and they aro lieUy trimmed with lace draperies and frills. " A Novel feature of the evonlng dresses is that they are now lined with either : chiffon or the thinnest of silk. The ac- ! cordion pleated Qouncc just inside tho skirt at the hem is the harbinger of the 1 linings that will in all probability bo ! with us by the autumn. They certain-; certain-; ly make the dress hang well and give j '. that adorable frou-frou that is dear to : the femlnino heart , Talking of linings, detachablo lin- i r ings of silk, satin, or thin alapaca aro I noticed In many of the new wrap coats f and dust oloaks. These are kept In j place by snap fasteners and are easily . taken out or put in. This is an excel-5 excel-5 lent idea, and ono capable of a good j deal of exploitation in these days of : t adapting garments to more than one use. ' t J It is quite pleasant to find In the r midst of eccentricities the well known c lines of the sports hat, simple in its i composition and owing all its charm to its skilful modelling and the material 1 of which It is made. 1 2 In pale soft tan and a very becoming c turquoise blue, sports hats and coats to match arc being sold. These colors r seem to be the favorites of tho mo- -1 a ment, and the modish material is cam- 1 i el's hair. Tho hats have tho knitted 3 aspect of the coats and their Huffy sur- 1 - face, and the hosiery that is sold to 1 1 match them, completes the trio of prot- i tiness and leaves the choice of a dress j r a subsidiary affair. ; i To tone with a blue set gray home- : 1 spun would be delightful, and to go : with a tan one a scouring cloth skirt in I r the natural creamy shade would be an - obvious and satisfactory choice, though - tobacco brown would bo just as good, with shoo leather of the samo tint. i 3 $ JiSr |