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Show w- - "I mh :i ' H 111 Pal I lie Latest Parisian Pannier Effect; Precursor, Perhaps, ot the Return of the Bust'c 1 Fashion. Di Pholo Copyright, 1913, by Reutlinger. i (Exclusive Copyrinht, 191, New York Herald Company. ,1 i .Copyrlcht. 1012. br the Xcn- York Herald Co. All ; " rlshls rt served.) I A ANY nu entirely new fashion makes I I 8 Its initial appearance in Paris Ion? ' before the semi-annual invasion of. the foreign dressmakers- By the time Ithej have arrived it has been tiled out f -.by some actiess. and often with her sug- li A J potions omc important changes .have, T !' .. ,been roa.de: 'B.v the. tiriTo the dressmaker '' in search of new 'models has arrived u ' France, the model dross has been per- l t J j fectcd into a creation, pethnps one 01 v those., dresses that every one buys and 1 whicfr'bccomc a fashion from one end of h i ? the world to the other. & 1 T For this tenson it is becoming a custom ir'. with the most exclusive dressmaking k f- ' houses in the fnited States to have a I - fr "commissionnaire" in Paris, or to detail '3 boine clever American woman with u & thorough knowledge of style on both .- rides of the -water to watch for any new 1J). fj style that may appear there The-o peo- ? f pie are commissioned to buy and send any jfc new model that makes its appearance in W mldscason, so that American cities a're S. 'Vt rapidly becoming only a few weeks behind ft . J I'Aris in "the latest fashiou." jft ' f Of course the difficulty with the midca- 'l ,' V son models for the woman wlio cannol k lmc PleQt-r of ""S08 of SOwn; iu a sca" ' aX li Is lbaL th tenlativc fasl"on nu-v livc V .y" onlv a fev weeks, and not be successful re g ' 0 tiSttl , ' rim": Wt Lace Has Become a Necessary Style Trin mir.p lor Elaborate Day or Evening Gown " (Mausn. I'itjuln) t'r , Photo Copyright, 1912, by RcutlinG", i-wt Exclusive Copyright, 1912. , . , " r 'Ww VorL HaW Consay. 1 V' L' enough to become anything but a passing it fashion. ."lust as the pauuicr started by ci u Chernit model in the. middle of the season preceding that in which it was t ihown, so the bustle effect, a transition s. from the pannier, has crossed the At-ti lantic in aiious midseason models The. one photographed here, worn by a French j actress, is of the new "briquc" (brick! hue, one of the new red tones for the coming season. The gown is of laffuta, flic wai&t haMng some fulness and with lapped seams outlining a yoke and ihort sleeve, con uiiued by i long oiie with a lace wrist ruffle- It is the-back bieadth onlj of the skirt that has the puffing, caught iu place j underneath by a quaiut tash with loop and ends of the dress material. Both the belt and the odd sash arc of black 11b- j bou. The effect of the pannier puff J placed only at tho back looks so niuih l like a revival of the bustle, together with j the kuifo -plentimjs a,i polonaise seen on various other midseason models, thai it seems vory much as if the creators of j models were experimenting with fashions of that era. Another midseason model, a very unusual un-usual looking wrap, is ghou at the upper) right hand side of the page. A blue satin evening wiap with loose sleeves, has a Roman court mantle attached to tho shoulders, made of gold and blue antiqao brocade, paught to the under coat by bro-..uded bro-..uded buttons. ( The btrange but clegaut hair ornament orna-ment of pearls and standing cockade of birds' plumes .s unusually appropriate. Such wraps look better, as a rule, on taller women than those of short stature, but aboc all, it takes a woman who stands and walks with elegance or dignity. One of the new models with (be'bloused waist and hip sxish is gien here in the centre- of the pnse. It is one of the late deviations of these new fashion lines that appeared between seasons, and has moie( rimming than the first frocks showed. Of while charnicuso silk, it has contrasting shaped bias bands of black satin, and following fol-lowing these bands embroidered bands of( irj)tal beads Cry&lal buttons fasten ihe( hip sash and drapery folds. A rather nocl ap, called the "Venetinu," is worn with lais dress, aud is embroidered with tubu-J Lir orjstal beads and spangles on cloth oft old. Auollier stjlc detail is the eUel bracelet, worn fastened with a square I brooch outlined bj rhinestones. i Laige hat remain in high alyle, In : spite of the popularity of the Miiallerj $ shapes for the severe tailoied suit, and the model given here has, iustcad of the 'one tulle brim edge fold so popular this rt Uunimer, three of these doubled folds. S The ero'wu is of soft vehel folds and the two ccqeulric aigrettes are placed at the back. Unusual detaiU are shown in an im- I .ported model that has just arrived in Jsew I I York (show u in. the low er left corner m 3 two views) Instead of panniers it has an ovcrskirt draped back to the belt, and ? this and the tunic are embroidered in the ji new tapestry beading. The lower .kirt fj is slashed so that the straight silhouette is presented, yet there is the eftect of ty more fulness given to the skirt by the , lace under skirt rullle that shows at bmc& 8 considerably. In the lack view there is a deeidedlj 'f Japanese tendency given by the waist A I panel and the sash end and loop. The 1 gown is of old gold supple satin, a color ?1 rapidly gaining precedence in the new $j fashionable colorings. t I One realizes best how much more ma-fl ma-fl I tonal is being used in dresses when to an p authoritative model like the Paquin gown ,3$j here shown is given more than a pacing S glance Besides thai, the great amount gtj of lace used surpasses that of many sca-5$! sca-5$! sons The under slip is of old rose liberty, & roercd with several tunics that meet f onlj near the waist line. These tunics 4 are for the greater pari of fine Bohemian ? lace, bul arc uot alike in shape or drap ha ing. Black satin ribbon, with a large - rosette marks the high waist line. The "" sleeves are not of the same material One is of the lace, the other of draped chiflon The belt, closing at the back, is covered bv a lace bow and ends. The early fall suit models are made- up 1 ery rough surface materials, and show utaway effects in greater proportion than ny other one style. The coat often drop: 0 knee depth at the back, and thougli onic skirls look plain a closer investiga ion shows a greater hem width made hi Wm ill N222Z2irS22a32Z2fiZ2Cr5r2nSSSIZC2P One Sleeve Is of Lace, The Other of Chiffo Back View of Paquin Gown. Photo Copyright. 1 91:. by Reutlinger Exclusive Copyright, 191:, New York Herald Company. pleats, moslly left unstitched, placed j the skirl, not symmetrically, bul in o places. For instance, one plain skirt kr a deep vertical tuck placed diagonally 1 one sidp of, the front, with a hidden sla; mk0k 1 jpvU 1; 3 pj Lit1, . ! J x 11 I ft 3 W h h v i A U 1 S ' lit P , E , 1- tkWw ''I 1 fA'f I' The Hew Beaded Embroidery and the Flat " Pannier. XTrom Kurrmi3'j underneath, and at the- opposite side at the '.back Iwo deep unstitched pleats gave the I' extra fulness. The more elaborate tailored tai-lored suits, especially those of supple silk or satin, show a ery discreet drapery, I made sometimes from the slight fulness I that is usually remoed by gores These vie with the mechanically pleated skirts. The latter .ire already shown in Paris in i serge suits as well as the taffeta char- nipue aud silk cashmere models. I Nothing very stattliug iu soparaic waisis has been imported since the Itobespierre waist, and new autumn models show cud-less cud-less ariatious in black aud white combinations: com-binations: sometimes the black predomi-intcs, predomi-intcs, sometimes the white. Some much more piactical collars have been made for ; 'hese waists caught acioss the. front so 1 -hat the collar does not hang away from the neckf"" Jabots and separate collars of this I Mhj that may be put on any waist arc made from sheerest batiste with a simple hemstitched border. The more elaborate 1 inds show narrow real lace edgings and 1 ire combined with net. Black or white S aim collars of the Robespierre order 3 ime white net jabots attached, the dcep-! dcep-! 1 st point- coming in the centre of the ' I front. I . Cameo Brooches and Pendants. iAMKOS 8tc again very much in the Vfashion and the woman who has some old oues set iu a manner which does in not appeal to lier may well afford to have 111 them reset according to "her personal id fancy, for the real cameos, beautifully nt set, although not in tha same class as shj regards expense with jewels, arc yet by ) ' The 8rim Edge Fold Is Now Doubled or Tripled. Photo Copyright, :91s, by Reudinger. I J Exclujivc Copyright, igu, New. York Herald Company. ' ' 1 1 . 1 0 cans inexpensive when they must re bought new. The pink cameos are being very much ised now, but all cameos are regarded is desirable, and the manner of setting hem, which has been devised by the nodern jeweller, adds much to their at-xaetivencss. at-xaetivencss. One of the prettiest ways )f setting, both the pendants and brooches s In three slim bands of gold, which arc leld apart by tiny pearls at both sides ind at the top and bottom of the cameo, rhere are three pearls used at each point in most of the brooches, but some of them have groups of the tiny pearls containing con-taining more than this number Another way of setting tho cameos ia in a gold filigree, quite wide and in the old fashioned designs. Both oval and square settings arc in fashion. The cameo itself ia aval i:. the square settings as well as m the oval ones, but the sot- i -KM: -'1 fM$ WH $& ' 3 Back View, Showing New Sash Loop and ntu I (Xrom.Eurvnxo'i.) ting is made square around the outer edge. The cameos arc all arranged so that they can be used either for brooches or puudants, the Tittle circlet of gold at the top by which they can be attached to a , chain turns under when the jewel, is , worn as a brooch. Cameo bracelet, aic , also .seen, the cameo set in a stiff or flexible gold band of oomc width. Au- . other style of bracelet has three narrow . bands of the gold curving out on the back of the -baud where the cameo is set. Muffs, Hats and Boas of Point d'Esprit and Taffeta. rASClXATIXG to all locrs of the most feminine kind of feminine finery arc the new sets of boa, hat and muff for eoning wear. Like all particularly appealing women's fashions, these originated origi-nated in Paris, and the discriminating onlooker on-looker would say at the first glance, "They look it." Point d'esprit trimmed with taffeta is Ibe most charming of the combinations of materials used for these adorable sets. There are three pieces in each set a long and wide boa, a tiny cap or hat, and a large flat muff, the latter for decorative purposes only, of course, for the muff is made of diaphanous material, is without with-out lining, and is meant to wear, with the other pieces of the set, for afternoons and eenings during the late summer and autumn. The three pieces are pailiculail attractive attrac-tive for wear with the taffeta or flowered charmeusc costumes, and with a simply made and quaintly designed fiock they I are more in place than with an elaborate costume, for they aie Ihem-elvcs quite elaborate enough to furnish all necessary decoration for a costume. But the woman who thinks that she can help out the plain little frocks of her wardrobe by the addition addi-tion of one of these dear little ieti will not And the device an economical one. The little sets arc not to be had for small sums at least .not yet. Only the most expensive ex-pensive materials nro used in the sels which have so far been imported. All the Iseis arc pu together by hand, and on some of them there is a q-iautity of stitch-cry stitch-cry of the linest sort The boa in one of the best designs Is deep and louuded at the back, wide over the shoulders and falJflin long stole odo's almost to the foot of chc sown., It io quite i ) " ' 1 1 T A Very Original Evening Coat and Head-dress. H Photo Copyright, 1912, by Reutlinger. jl Exclusive Copyright, 191.2, Ncv York Herald Company. jl flat aud most becoming to the figure, d The hat is the quaintest little affair pos- r sible, something in the shape of a tcque and yet so dainty in trimming and design s that it suggests the boudoir even more t than the piomenade. It is soft and ver i much of a lingerie affair, although it is made of point d'esprit. aud pleated taffeta. I The muff is very large and Aery Hat, so 1 3 flat that at firsi glance jou 'might take il 1 1 for some sort of a fancy bag instead of a muff -ill three pieces aie made of alternating alter-nating bonis of point d'esprit and nanow f pleating of Colored taffeta. The point l'eprit is deep ivory in tone rather than H pure H Parisians wore much the same so't of H sets made of line batiste and kicu during H the last summer for afternoon and even- H ing, and with silk and lingerie dicsses. H It is predicted by fashion experts that the H fashion of wearing these lingerie sets will H be taken up in this country and they prob- IJH ably will blossom forth in. large numbers M at Palm Beach and other Winter resorts IH next winter. The lingerie sets are very j Iofb. being coveted with tine hau work. raH .. - .mail 11 wmii'-j' 'rrr. .'i 'ji.J"i'..erJl IH hmmWW' ' 4vwN NSSsf wfce MSmM4 wlw WRsr a'.wr?rai i I Wg$8$&y A MMm Rft,8BjHgBKtsR .: ' m m A New Type of Dress for a Slender Figure, with Blouse Waist and Hip Sash. p Photo Copyright, 1913, by Reutlinger. IH Exclusive Copyright, 191. New York Hcre'.ii Company. IVMMwku Mmm |