OCR Text |
Show Fashion Divorced jl From Humor Shortly li fig : . Women with One Eye and Pussy's Whisker Veils No g? if Longer Being Paraded on the Streets for $5 : Man's Amusement. If . i ay jt !j Tf It Is the mission of fashion to s? ' J adorn and beautify tho Individual, ?S I It seems, very 'frequently to be hu- j I morously diverted. It began with the H ,J hat, then we had the traveling wnlst- tf 1 line, that might be placed anywhere M ) except at one's waist. The line of tho S j unusual has now reached tho point of r 1 hobbling the anKies oy narrow bands V f encircling the skirt, so perhaps it is ' I safe to assume that woman may soon H!A oincrso from tho cyclo of eccentricity II and assumo once more a normal and 1 atlractlvo figure. It is really not quite ' understnndnblo that women should be 8jj willing to present .some of the absurd llgurcs that wo sco upon tho street. I I Zither we must believe trie mascu-9M mascu-9M ': line claim that most women have no f) j' senso of humor, or else some of us are j so exuberantly humorous that we am Bl willing to sacrlflco woman's most t charming attribute grace to the peril per-il puliation of a huge joke ,f A millinery critic announced, after p a view of the season's early models, I t "Women this season will wear but lib one eye," and some of tho hatfl dls-J; dls-J; i played actually verilled tho statcmont. ?' f The Hindoo turban that covers part m J of tho eyes and all of the ears, Is an- . other millinery freak that surely has J - nothing in the way of beauty to com- u mend it. and tho grotesquely figured i. -vils have certainly been a most dar-I dar-I 'I- Ing sartorial experiment. At a lltllu. .Jl - dlstanco they give tho effect of un-id un-id i' sightly facial blemishes. Hugo dla- !,-mond-shapcd figures, made up of black "J 'Jots. noses, one on tho left slda of tho I forehead, the other at the right of tp t tho chin, are startling, and a black BL lace chantlclcr in. front of tho car '' gives an uncanny, sldc-whlskcr effect $ to the prettiest iacc Ono veil that was seen Is suggestlvo of pussy's whis- kcra. The mission or tho thin til ijt 7 has always been supposed to bo to 1 1 beautify Even a very poor complexly complex-ly J Ion might bo disguised by tho soflcn-II soflcn-II mg effect of a well-chosen veil Why monstrously absurd llgures should be I placed on the sheer, fine web Is an- other of tho mysteries that must bo charged up with tho already long list (H I" of follies of tho wardrobe, rg ;, We may laugh at the back view of jj h the headless lady, but everyone In New bj $ York has seen many such figures tho P h&t with wide back-brim resting on J ll the shoulder blades and the long quills, I f apparently an aggressive afterthought, I 3 extending at the sldo The unfortunnto Jj :I part of Iheso eccentric things Is that Bj . they are worn Tegardlcss of time and W i place. A woman sitting in solitary ', state In a private carriage might be b . pardoned for getting herself up In plc-ij plc-ij i ture fashion, even if one did not ad-feti ad-feti 5 mire tho picture, but hats of this kind ,jjl j are worn into street cars crowded II r public conveyances where each one I A becomes an absolute nuisanco to its M neighbor. ! -,' The popularizing of any pronounced P i style always leads to its becoming ,jr' 1 cheap and ridiculous In inartistic pfl h.mds. What Is known In tho nianu-j0 nianu-j0 k facturlng trade as "populnr-prico line" 7i f are almost always the pronounced and 5 '.,, b!irrc. Considering the various shapes, S V styles and figures of womeri, "what everybody is wearing" is not the artis-I artis-I '' tic way to choose one's clothing. The ip real truth of the matter probably Is gS f Unit wo have not been paying enough -t attention to our mirrors. Woman Is R not a photograph, presenting always 'I htr one, most attractlvo view to the m . world, but a figuro that should stand 11. the critical teat of being .symmetrical ! ' from every vlow-polnt. Tho art of good dressing Is to achieve this by cor-J cor-J : reeling natural, physical defects, but, jjfl like tho art secession movement, which m lo the Ill-balanced has becomo an H f obsession of tho unconventional, wo 5 ir have let the novelty of tho unusual run J -t awav with our better Judgment and M r' earned the ridlculo of the thoughtful. 4 1 J lx-t us get back to our dou' '- and jjf 1 triplicate mirrors and our i tfijl , lines of grace. Some of us have al-Si al-Si ways needed help, that tho tall and PI slim might not over-accentuate her "-i , hrlght and Ellmnesp, the short and K stout her breadth and lack of inches. J0 When tho wardrobo censors relax their j Igllanco women without taste play S ( ridiculous havoc with tholr appearance. '&i' 'IIss Rlx-Foot wears n flower-pot hat, 1. ; narrowed by n vest, and a narrow skirt iJjj' drawn into a narrower ankle-band Mi I3y way of contrasting what-not-to-do, Madam Flvc-by-thrco wears a llat- crowned, wldc-brimmed hat, a fluffv-fcather fluffv-fcather rucho on her ncckless shoul-defsand shoul-defsand a large-figured foulard dress made with panlered overaklrt. Not everyone has the gift of seeing with ilT m1 ?,"oyc Just how a certain style will dispose itself on her figure small houses, and Into the department depart-ment shops. In materials the greatest success Is velours de hilne, used for garments and handsome tailored costumes. cos-tumes. For little dresses, to wear under long, heavy coats of fur and fur-trimmed ratine, the favorite materials ma-terials are the lovely cachemlro de 1 Indcs, and the practical and pretty cachemlrcs do i-oie, all to be had In fho new shades of color. However great the popularity of new materials, nothing can over excel In richness of beauty and elegance tho gowns of soft satin, of crepe meteore, or char-meusc. char-meusc. And at all the best houses these standard materials aro shown and Indorsed. Much lace Is used In their adornment, and there are always touches of delicate color mingled with tho laces of tho corsage Snlln and molre. and cither of these two materials ma-terials with velvet, are happy combinations. com-binations. A marked peculiarity of the modes Is that one seldom sees a formal costume made of one material. Gray agaric embroidery Is charmingly charm-ingly decorative on the belt and drapery drap-ery of a puce-colored tailored cosT In favor through tho season. They come as a pleasant; nnd practical change from the too universal coat and skirt costume, no "matter how handsome hand-some the latter may be. Monsieur Worth has produced a fascinating shoulder cape which ho calls "Camar-go," "Camar-go," the name of a Spanish dnncer once famous In Paris. Made of taupo-col-ored velvet tho same sjiadc as the long-skirted gowns of crepe meteore, with which it Is worn It is trimmed with strips of shaded brown and gray fur arranged in bretcllo fashion. The hnndsomo ornament that clasps the cape at tho mlddlo of the back is of agaric embroidery. A portion of the corsage shows between tho sloping bands of fur. A particularly graceful featuro of this cape is tho plaited basque back, falling on tho sides In jabot folds. It Is an Odetto muff which this stately dame holds In ono hand an Immense muff composed of civet frills strapped at one side of a circling cir-cling band" of the name fur that trims tho cape. These velvet frills, four at one end and two at tho other, fall over Inner frills of biscuit-colored lace. 1 has not been In use for many years. I Texas mini;, a soft brownish-gray fur, Is lovely in combination with this pliiHli, as well as opossum fur, which Is more decided in Its brownish coloring. col-oring. Both, are used to a considerable consider-able degree as hat trimmings. An elegant garment of mingled brelt-hchwnn7, brelt-hchwnn7, fur and seal was shown ip an exclusive model on Fifth avenue The collar, Inrga and square In the back, deepens in front Into a waistcoat. waist-coat. Heavy whlto Venice lace laid over black gauze composes tho amplo sleeves, while the plaited neck frill Is of fine Mallnes lace The soft white felt hat, designed by Maria Guy, had its Ide brim bound with black satin. It curved Into bowltchlng folds above the forehead and was held by a long ostrich feather fanlasle. A mere petticoat Is more than ever looked upon as a ubuIcss appendage to a feminine toilette. So far as I can sec all tho best houses attach to a soft silk foundation the triple volants, tho panels or tho draplngs that form the completed skirt. A decided increase in the amount of w Walk,4 w JmmmWmWM but thero are always mirrors, and I wish thero was always, too, a dios-form dios-form with a fltted-to-one'a figure lining. lin-ing. The mirror nnd tho dress-form will tell a true story and preach ear-to. ear-to. ,al morals. The success of tho beautiful agaric embroidery has been most surprising, for while Its beauty la convincing. Its price Is alarming a point In Its favor, naturally, since It can never become common, and Its strange beauty is of such an order that It will not easily be imitated. It Is beauty piled on beauty beauty of material, of workmanship, work-manship, and of color. Its use Is confined con-fined to the best houses, and It will not bo till the end of the season If at all thut It will find its way lo tumc showing a new form of tho old Russian blouse. Gray Texas mink trims the slanting side opening of the blouse, and hems tho skirt. The increased in-creased fulness In the latest nklrl In attained In this Instance by a slightly fulled ftounco of puce-colorcd putln set on tho edgo of tho foundation skirt; the effect of an underdrew of satin Is given In Uie long, light under-dleeve. under-dleeve. cured over the hands, and how chic the narrow, turned-over cuff of the oversleeve with Its silt at the brick' Shoulder caper mado of ermine laupf" (which Is nutural mole), chinchilla, and of velvet, trimmed with any of iheso furs, easily turn a dress Ipto a handsome hand-some and correct slroot costume, and are well liked and promise to remain The Maria Guy lint that top this really noel costume is o pah biscuit-colored biscuit-colored plush; taupe mIm-i fnc thr odd brim that sweeps xo llghtl frmn the face; and the long, uneurled ( atliei shades Into bright Kmplre-reen and taupe a charming and favorite color combination The fur coats of last season are b- Ing replaced by coats of heavy phuh 1 as soft as seal fur in a quality that material required for a gown, and the r t urn of tho petticoat, Is eagerly awaited by thf4 manufacturers, who do-1 do-1 lare that many Industries arc on the ige of disaster. Thin matter Is arousing serious alarm and. says L.e Figaro, the Chamber of Commerce are 'triltlng steps lo '"ontrol fashion In this matter at least. They aro hoping lo prevail upon the Fronch government govern-ment to Intervene nnd persnindo the most Influential designers to launch models that will roqulro tw'elvc to fourteen metres of matorlal instead of three of four, an has been the case recently When Frnnco was. a monarchy, mon-archy, with a beautiful woman at Jts head, an attempt of this sort would undoubtedly have been successful; for all the court, and after them the nation, na-tion, would have followed her lead. Nowadays tho designers launch a mode without knowing In tho lenst if it will bo taken up, since It depends on the fancy of a few public women. The clrclo composed of the French mondaines Is a small and exclusive one, without any particular loader who would care to mako herself conspicuous con-spicuous by assisting tho manufacturers manufactur-ers to the extent necessary to work an Immediate change. But, It sconi3 to me, the wheel Is slowly but surely turning in the direction desired. Very trig and natty for many uses Is a gown In dark blue serge trimmed with black satin. Not tho least of Its recommendations Is tho light weight of the material, which Is quite warm enough for autumn or winter, yet is scarcely moro cumbersome than tho summer materials that we so regret to lay aside. The bodice has a removable re-movable lining of white muslin, a good point in a frock that Is constantly worn, as it may bo laundered. Thero aro revers of tho serge, edged In satin, nnd dotted with small buttons, riat-cst riat-cst Indications from Paris incline to a waist-lino that Is only slightly shortened short-ened rather than really high, and here wo have it, finished by a piping of the material which scarcely hows In the sketch, as tho effect Is that of a one-piece one-piece model. This frock, with Its fastening fast-ening at tho front. Is Just tho thing to get Into a hurry. Tho back, with Its middle panel carried up on the bodice and marked with buttons. Is extremely good looking, and tho square sailor collar, tempered according to the newest fancy by a point of sntln laid beneath It In hood shnpo, Is a pretty touch. Oe.sldes the bluo serge In which this was shown, It may bo Gorgeous . I Trimming .1 had In all colors; ono of the best be- H Ing a charming shade of green. Plum color, too, is excellent, and as practical fl for general wear as navy or black. A more generally useful hat can H scarcely be found than one of tho soft felts that come In all sorts of shapes H and colors. When they fl-y came In their character was alr--. entirely ftH nportlng, but now that wr.r.cn have jH found out their comfort and becom- H lngnes, they arc to bo had in smaller H brimmed, modified shapes suitable for H morning wear in town, as well as for H country use, which cost in tho dc- H partment stores from $5 to $9, and H may be obtained in a great variety of colors They aro smart without any l trimming at all, save for tho narrow IH ribbon crown band; or one may elect H to have a pompon, cockade or shaving- H brush algretto at tho side. In theso H It is the vogue to place a whlto decora- H tion against dark felt, and in revcrso H of this whlto felts arc oftcnest trimmed H In black. At tho trimming counter ono H can get ready-mado black cockades, H of tho best quality French faille rib- H bon for $1.95, and white or cream H .shaving brushes for $1.50 and upwards. H Pompons como in many colors. With a very small piece of skunk, H lynx or fox ono can put the sort of H collar on the Jacket of one's better- LH most suit that is seen In ono of Fran- H cls's models. This consists of a H straight strip of tho fur not more than H four or fivo Inches wide and twclvo H inches long, tho middle of one edge at- H tached to tho coat at tho back of the H nock nnd tho ends left looso to fall toward the shoulders: To the same H edgo of tho fur. after It has left tho H coat, is gathered somo lovely cream lace that comes down full over ;ho IH bust nnd gathers in toward tho loft H side under a rosette, where the coat H fastens. Tho sleeves of this model were three-quarter length and had a H roll of fur at tho cuff. I saw the B same thing In satin, with the drapery in the front of satin instead of lace. H A plain skirt without drapery anil H with Irlngo at tho bottom is a good H one for Uils coat. It may havo a two- H Inch band down tho front dotted iylt.li H one row- of buttons covcrec! In' tho H material. H Kvcn this early In tho season there M arc remnants of the newest materials H lo bo had In the shops, if one makes H a point of asking for them. Tho silk H counters aro suro to have lengths of IH tho fascinating, changeable- taffeta, H which are duoble width and most ad- H inntageous for cutting. Possessed of H a chiffon or lace skirt, why not make H a silk spencer from one of theso rem- H Hants, to be worn w lth it, and so con- H trle a lovely tea gown or restnurant H costume for very little money? There M is no end to the exquislto combinations M In which the changeable taffetas come; H ono of the most admirable being a gold H and hydrangea blue. H Tho fancy for wool embroidery on M millinery and frocks has assumed tho ' H proportions of a craze, and It Is most H offectlvo nnd Interesting If not over- H I done. A touch of this adornment In &H vilcl or antique coloring on hat band IbH or cont revers Is sufficient. H For practical purposes several smart &H blouses should be included in tho ward- H robe Of course many more elaborate H costumes may be added to the young girls wardrobe than those enumerated H here; this article Includes merely an H outline of the necessary and practical H outfitting of a debutante who Is to M spend a winter in New York or any H other large and fashionable social M center H Burro n has used a quaint combtna- lion of olle green velvet and corboau H blue charmouse In a delightful after- noon costume. The short coat and H skirt are of tho blue charmouse, with M the green velvet for decoration. On H the small panels which depend from H tho belt and edge tho two sides of tho B Fklrt slashings, tho trimming is of cor- beau blue worsted. Tho deep velvet bund which edges tho skirt is slashed H on olthor side A striking detail of tho M costume Is the huge, antique silver H buckle which finishes tho belt. Tho B sleeves aro three-quarter length, fin- H Ished at tholr lower edgo with worsted H embroidered cuffs. Theso sleeves aro H set into tho low. largo armholo which H has como to be a distinguishing feature H of the newest gowns. H Taupe chiffon, gold lnco and bands of M skunk fur fashion a modish afternoon H gown that, from tho high, double-plait- ed rucho of tulle about the neck to tho full blPhop alcoves nnd tho spirally IBBJ winding trimming, carries out fashion's latest whims. The yoke of tho bodice H Is mado of fine whlto net, a crushed H chiffon belt with antique buqklo con- H fines the Jacket of gold lace In cuirass H style, nnd the chiffon skirt Is hungovor HHl ivory satin. Bins folds of taupe satin H edgo the bands of fur. Tho largo Gains- H borough velvet hat la crowned with H softly shaded plumes. HHJ |