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Show I ! i r PsL A- " I ! If im-M -"m it tfXmmF lM?TL j VI rVJ M W J t f iL. rft, ,i I Si m ylAii &'-; Ir ipLiy iif ' feMfe - ti ii fer vtfv- . - I ! k ; 8 m- i5;-- I r- ' M '-v$L r: Ii , : I ;"W-W ' ; WmB I' I""-' .y :&.:, rail Hf, is ( ' " i H , Lj . Tailored-Costume of Ecru Tussor. B 'j , . , ' Pboto Copyright. 1011. by Reutlloger B v, ' s v Eiclusivc Copyright, 1011, V ' ' New Yo.rkHerald Company .:r . , "'' BY MRS. A. T. ASHMORE. HV- '; ' ' n fT 0 HITE scrgo. -wiiite homespun H , j U Vi nu w'tc l'11-"" costumes havcj H. n '' j - hr heen and arc soCnshionable this: H3 'i "'ij ;' " V Y summer that late as it is iu. the Hit V 'j T ' toason new models arc bciuc! HS fn Jil -f exhibited mid costumes arc be- j HK Jt M ni: Ordered, with the knowledge they will H !) ,ic ru "'il cold weather sets in. The HI & ' linen is the exception, but for some weeks Hji jj ' . linen costumes will be not only possible H' , I but smart, the richly embroidered ones M ' ' especially being most popular for lnnch- H j , eons, bridge parties and all afternoon en-' i ' Jertainmcnts, the plain tailor styles being j j 'J chosen for tho morning. B J i ; s After all the fashions have been dc- HB I t J elded or announced as finally decided H ( i there alwnj-s appear n"itc different styles, , and for the moment it ts disconcerting, to f J ' ' say tho least, to be 'confronted with ft -', ' fashions radically difTcrcul. These H . models arc often the advance guard of , i . . m :i 7Z. ''-' i( ! Iv&SJi ! H 1 1 f."' P , l Hl ' j J; Black Oblffoo Gown. mw, , . H I I ne DCXt' season, or havo been designed HA J and executed too Into for the harvest H T, time as regards the season for sellinc H gowns. Tho woman who has bided her Kj ' time until this crucial moment is! often B' -- greatly envied when she appears in an K unmiHtakably up to date, or rather ahead j of date, coatume, bnt' no one considers H" that betweea. whiles, she has not been-at F all well gowned. - - B ' ' f New Tailored Models. H Tbe newcflt models for the coat and H eklrt stylo arc distinctly new and hare -1 i many points about them that will unques- ' tlonably he copied, perhaps improved on, K ! for the winter costumes. There are H I rumors, Borne with a foundation of truth, m 1 that"Bkirta will be materially longer and . ; I T that only the. moat simple of gowns will j-' ) J j -.be made without a train. The majority H ',' ( , of women are so well assured of the ad- H ': ' y vantages of the amart short skirt that the H" I faehion will not bo given up without a B ' vigorous prdUst, and these saino new 1.' if! .Etj-les exhibit most attractive short skirts H l ' rbore is more width to the new skirt, but H i lo lines are fvtill etraighL A seam down I the front U to be noticed.- One model I with this tfcnm has the effect -of the &ti!o. i breadth lappiug over the front part ct the way. It then slants to the hem. i Along the slant or bias is a row of tioy buttons. This style, showing tho effect of a double skirt, is distinctly novel and if well carried out is moat becoming. Another model has both sides overlapping overlap-ping the front breadth and finished, with the bias or slanting line trimmed with tiny crochet buttons. This is an excellent model for a stout figure, for the front' breadth can be narrow-or wide, whichever is the more becoming, without interfering with the lines of the skirt. Very few ab-lolutely ab-lolutely plain skim arc seen, nud there will be fewer as tho season advances.-but advances.-but these two models are simple and can he made more elaborate, if elaboration is desired, by braid or bands of velvet or satin, the braid put around thp skirt not across the front breadth or only the front breadth trimmed Jind the, sides and hack left plain. . Panel Effects Smart. Panel effects are smart, and the double skirt fashion is often carried out by the straight panel in front and back. This panel can be trimmed or plain. When the underskirt is trimmed often the panel is left plain.save for. a.narrow edge or cord of velvet, silk 6r satin, while a rather eccentric ec-centric model has a panel only in front. There are side panels heavily embroidered that hang Straight from the high waist line. These are much narrower than tho akirt itself, but do not meet in the front or hack, allowing the nkirt to be spu he-Jweon he-Jweon the edges of the panel. These panels are often of different mnterial from the skirt, and if the gown is of voile or chiffon are embroidered iu silk, or if it is an evening gown in beads or jet. "With a cloth or serge costume, however, the panel must be die same, although it is predicted that sntin and velvet panels will he p.rrl of the more 'elaborate reception gowns this winter. The all white costume- has always a ' if ' Mobalr or Sfree CfoivD. charm and individuality about it that prevents pre-vents its going out of fa'shiou foe any iluugth of tune. Lust summer it was not I'TT LATEST Sfyles fr Sge and Silk J$X y"l'-' L "" ffl. Costumes -- WjmWmML f r-.. "b-Y'- KBNc 'fj $) i i$ r-A ::&y S0MmK:'' 'ra- 'Sllu His )"' : i'W' ;;5ra) gffl ' w,,si.c.., ;) 0, H1'--'Vj ,' ;'',''t ' Wffel Tll IM Si photo Copyright, 1911, byjleatrinfta' - - I x . 5K'; yy -J T.;rJ-r OSIlr -" l&y Phot0 Pbt, lOll, by Reutllngen .- v , ..iS-. ..--...-.- ,. Vl-1?, Exclusive Copyright. 1911. v- 'ew i'ork Herald Company f ' fieavy White Linen Costumes I I T . - raSSrtkdajJifc'r t V4, r-ttSi far -,$&$&. ISNyFvl.t ... , .M i , . ' Coat and Skirt Costume of . Ecru Serge with Red Buttons. Phuto CniiyriKlit. 1911, by Rrutllnncr Exclusive Copyright. 1911, - New York Herald Company r - . A'.' h'o sniurf'.'uf'the colored, and if .-white were selected it wa.i alwi'iyt) relieved by sonie' color or was of. a dcepjcreaiu color iteelf. This your all whito iij the smart' -sL, If color is desired in the rcvers nud cuffs it can be introduced there,, but colored col-ored 'trimmingM aro rvfrved' for gowns of thinner materials. There nrc exceptions excep-tions to tlio rule, ajid'roVers-.pniliroid.'red' in color are novel in di?sigu, oirective and fi'uiart, but It will lie Hiteu Oiat smartest of all arc the all white, with which are worn large white haw' trjmmed with white ailk flowers. ;; There is a great" vuh'uty ill' the jackets j flPSHHfiHS - - ; ui u : . -"-j j- J Dark Blue and White Worsted Costumc, Phnto Copyrighu 1911.'by Reutllntftr Exclusive Copyright. 1911, New York Herald Company for the ndw coat and skirt costumes. A very few absolutely plain s-vers tailored designs are most attractive because of their perfection of cut and fit. These have large revr faced with softest satin or corded silkj liiit Uie more fanciful stylos are t!io"new'e.t and Uie" jacl:ets witli attached skirts are deservedly popular. popu-lar. The skim r most carefully fitted, and the. oiily .b(ittoui on the coat are two on "iU'skirrK'-Cioso fitting in th." back, there is fulness in the fronts, the sleeves are small, iu the conventional coat sleeve .shape, and a wide sailor collar ji of heavy embroidered liucu or of pluin BH-SH9R!!lgM-H corded silk. The' buttons of velvet and .a." narrow cord of velvet where the skirt and hlou.se are joined can be black, colored-or colored-or white velvet. Only the finest of lin- gerie blouses can be worn with this cos-tunip. cos-tunip. aud if the ui'atlcl lie chosen for :i winter cosi'qine of cloth or .velveteen there, can be a Qhiffon- blouse to match the color. :,v, r . ' . ,'. i It inustV'lg n,dmittcd that the present' fauhionahlo' length' i coats is not universally uni-versally becoming, hut for the moment) the hip length is accepted as the smart- C5t,and all nev jackets are made this length, or shorter, not "longer. The fancy- a : i , - rhort cton or bolero will nppear later; J for the moment whether straight or with l attached skirt the jacket measures the same. The sleeves of the latest models arc loug, in coat sleeve shape and quite small, but this is for the plainer style of cout and skirt costume, which should always al-ways be of a more severe style thau the elaborate satin, cloth or velvet costume with which the shorter sleeve is the more appropriate. Fine -Serge Fashionable. v The conservative woman will ulways have her plaiijer street costume on more or less eonvouiiotial lines, and the coat I sleeve reaching :o the- waist she consjd-ers consjd-ers essential to that fashion. No kimono sleeve, for instance, would be permitted I with the strictly tailored style, but with the jacket that has attached skirts the kimono sleeve or any fancy sleeve is appropriate. ap-propriate. In selecting a model for 'an j autumn or winter costume care should 'be taACii to select one that will look well 'in the material that is chosen, for the same, lines are not equally effective In silk and heavy cheviot, in satin or serge, jnnri it-is jut the attention to these de-j de-j tails that marks the difference between ; the well dressed woman and she who is ; gowned according to the generally ac-j ac-j rpptcd faluun of the moment without I having taken. ti)c trouble to delect ma-Itrlal ma-Itrlal or coior suitable to her own color-ling color-ling and style. I The rough wal or wide cord Qf serge Is i not so fashionable this season as the finor 'quality, and' the" soft camel's hair and j homespun arc also more popular. Homespun Home-spun isivcry smnrt for the more severe : 'ill 'if t B W -. '"j - a . -' "" 'rtm'o Uncn Frosb with Cortoo ConJ LscIdcs, style, but is often too heavy a pd, warm excepting for occasional cool days during the summer. For the autumn aud early 6SHii5 . . i . . j I winter it is extremely smart and most sat- j'ji I isfactory, and ns It is now fashionable V) J to remain in the country until late in the - ( season the sensible woman provides her- J- self with the most becoming of homespno J costumes, and where cxpene is not con- j sidercd both a dark and a white hom c-pun ! will be included in the autumn outfit. 4 Cloth and Velvet Coats. j The long, nil concealing coat, which at first glance cannot be distinguished from j a one piece gown, is a most singular fash-,' fash-,' ion that always appears at this season of the year, and this season apparently the designers of dress are more anxious than K ever to make it a success. Cloth and vel- vet arc thc materials generally selected for ,' it, anil at the moment two materials arc ' combined in the construction. In a dark ;; Gown of Chiffon Cloth and FJoereJ . SHS. .' blue nerge combined with a black aud j white check it is certainly smart and dis- ; Unctive. It fastens at the side, has a ro of bone buttons and an edge of the hlak 5 and white goes from the shoulder; the blue does not reach to the hem, for there sl yj Is a widf; band or underskirt of the black to and white, so that tho effect of an over- skirt is given. The same model in satin lie and velvet would be even more effective H axtd could be worn over any gown, In ; Wj heavy material like terge it would be too ' dI heavy ands-arm over any but the lightest J H gown. The belt is placed exaggeratedly . Ir high sotliat the short waist lino comes VJQ almost under the arms. It is a model not Bj to be copied without the greatest attention rjR? rbeing paid to" the lines Iwing becoming, ;fij hut this fs a rule, that should be obscrrcd JLE with e;ery gown that is copied from the i'lBE original model, and the skill of the good) hE, dressmaker is shown in her modLficatioo) h He of the design as it first "appears. ; Hs : .'i |