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Show I toVANCE-3TYLE-S FOR AUTUMN AND WINTER, I 3 ! V 1 OW that the summer holidays ore I over plans have to be made, for the I young- girl's outfit, for the opening 1 I of school in near at hand, and st when once studies begin there is I t no thno to "fuss" over clothes. rt Tb simpler, more severe style of dress . 1 is tha smartest for the young girl, but u there Js no excuse for the simplicity bpinjr .' exaggerated, for then a girl looks con- i splenoma, and if anything is to be avoided (1 it la anything conspicuous for a schoolgirl, ,' ,' Tho coat and skirt costume ia the first tr t b decided upou, for it is the most iinpor- , rant. AYhen economy is to be considercr" 1 tie spring suit can often be utilized for the winter one, the serond beat for nir interlining of wool wadding, or the wearing wear-ing o a Shetland sweater will make the ; suit warm enough. But to begin with, the suit must be J cleaned and pressed and put In thorongl i ; order. Serge is an excellent matcriaL foi ' ', H solool suit, and for winter the Tougher j - weave is Bmartcr than the finer. Then '- there are homespuns and cheviots and '( camel's hair cloth, all of which are fashionable. fash-ionable. It is a mistake to select too (I ' ' heavy a material ; at the name time a too 1 J light material is not satisfactory for the f coat, so that care must be taken to select Sf arefully the weight and warmth as well as the color and the design. rIGUItED designs, plaids, checks, stripes, kc, are fashionable this year for these second suits, but the plain d rk colors arc nlso chosen if the fabric 8oks r&ugh and heavy, but as the plain 'dors are the smartest fen- the "best Milt" 1 o-o with a pattern or rough surface are 3 re often relegated lo the second best. Qhis season the skirts are wider than list, bii still are cut on straight lines, aid the jackets are all short, irnny of ! skirls are in the double skirt style, 1 t more in effect than reality, for there II be a broad band or fold on the lower t- irt, ovr which falls .straight and severe H " upper skirt. An attractive model linn soam down the front, but a short dis-ancc dis-ancc from the bottom the sidei are cut If on a slnnt, showing a plain fold ap-p ap-p rcntly on an underskirt, but often this j iin piece is attached, to the upper skirt, .ind then the whole skirt, wheu it is quite plliin, is made without a lining or underskirt. under-skirt. Revers are most important both for ihc best and econd lwr dress suits. Plain Thite cloth is nlways so becoming it seems i pity that anything else is ever worn, hit dark colors in velvet cloth or satin ., "."" ty 'wonderfully effective nnd becoming. A 'U- j?l.. dark blue ergc wilt witih n crimson vUit -. ' V v f collar and cuffs is effective, nut this docs !' ;,-V & not apply to the sailor collar and too -vide fk cuffs, for if thore is too much of the vivid - ' contrast in color nnd material it is noc smart, but only conspicuous. y The revere, that arc detachable ire fx- . ccllcnt, and by having two or three sets , . a suit can be kept looking fresh nnd now for a surprisingly long-time. Braid, not braiding. Is a smart trimming, and black is the bc3t color, hut again thtrc must i r, ( not be too much or the suit wll! lack the ' v ' smart appearance that is obligatory. To a, wear with all coat nnd skirt suits there j,. ' should be a silk blouse, simple In design, '4rt tnc pnm,J t0'01" ns tMC ""it- Irish lace col- ' lars and cuffs for wry best and lingerie or mbroidercd Imen for everj'dny wear maktf charming finish. A blouse of striped ' wash silk Is also a good investment, and there can also be the simple linen and L .t- P . - i M : f III : wfw - : aW Ml w $mw I I If m w I . ore more practical, it is contended, and the complexion of youth can as a rule staud almost any color. THE sailor collar with the pointed revert? that go with It and the turn-onck turn-onck cuffs are all th trimming required, re-quired, and niosl charming color contrasts ,ean be easily attained. If the color of the suit is u dark bluu, then a lighter blue or black (the latter better for the older girl) is perhaps not strikingly novel, I but i smart and becoming. There are shades of crimson and green the latter i be most carefully selected that arc ivvi'vnuuuvuuwvxuuuuuuw lather severe wash blouses with the pleated pleat-ed ruffle or small trim necktie. TUB one piece frock Ss more nnd more popular, and every schoolgirl Is now planning for several of them iu her n Intet outfit. They certainly are not o practical for school wear as the blouso with skirl to match, but they are smarter, it must be admitted. Light weight serge, cheviot, cashmere and voile are all included in-cluded on the fashionable material, while there arc several other fabrics on the order of the old fabioned delaine or light woollen that are charmingly dainty in pattern and color.-light in weight and yet with enough warmth to make them suit able to the season. J It is mast difficult to decide at a clanec whether the model exhibited Is for a long coat or for a one piece frock, so closely do fbey resemble one another Tlicj high walsted stylos wi:h-.rh: Ktraignt hnesj ire just as popular nt, evr. and the 'fleet of fasteulug in front of skirt snd waioi is" Almost precisely the same, whether et Is n frork or a coati Braid (ngain, cot braiding braid-ing must be repeated), velvet and satin nnd fancy buttous are all used for trimmings. trim-mings. Velvet buttons are eilectivc. as are also fancy ones, but the button trimming trim-ming is a dangerous one to adopt too rash-ly. rash-ly. and. besides, is not a novelty. The surplice folds, the fichu and the full blouse j waist are all noticeable details of fashion this season, as are hiph, wide belts. The; more elaborate frocks are trimmed with narrow ruffles and plcatinzs. while old fashioned shirrings and puffings are to be seen on the picture frock6. Waists are collarless, but not cut low In the neck, except ex-cept for the more eiaboraic9tyle of house or eveniug frock, and every effort is being made to do away with tho most unBnlt-ablc unBnlt-ablc style of low cut frock for street wear. Rosettes, sashes, wide girdles, all arc fashionable, fash-ionable, and the soft taffeta silk is in great demand, the plain and the flowered, for these trimmings. " WttmmmS J Or? , . wrA Blllfo e5 fc'MSL l0tWJ V'A IIP') w: vM ' oo W G i TAFFBTA Hiik and soft silk Gnishod cashmere uocJfS for young girls are delightfully dainty and becoming and are best gulfed tor ihc pictun stylos that are so popuivtr, The gathered Jikirt "rith several nnrro rufiles or jileatings around the bottom, these put on either straight around the 9kirt or in scallops. Is charming charm-ing in pale color taffeta, while combining two colors, pink and blue, is mosc becoming. becom-ing. The cashmere frocks nr differently carried out. The material :s soft, and lends itself better to draping than to rufflps and flounces, 60 that it Is more mwd for the models that have long liu'H and l A H . I ( ' ' s W-V i w i drapcrle?. It clings closer to the flcuw and is, in consequence, easier to make fit well. A pale piuk cashmere trimmed with pale brown velvet is n most atlractivt H model for a girl to whom pink l becoming. H the brown velvet ia bands around the bot- H torn of the plaju hut sljehtly gathered ' tH skirt outlining tlie waiit nnd skirt and4u a :H rosette Opishlng the cr&sa'pd fichu of pink jH cliifion edged vith Valenciennes Uiec. H VOILK fichus should b of Ui heavier H quality, and while there arc 'many H charming voile fichus the material is nn H .., J i much worn by older women that it is best H to Select the other fabrics in preference. H especially for the winter, but for party B frocks It is most suitable and can be found H In nil colors and designs. Tluin and fig- H tired net are also fashionable materials for jH the more elaborate st'le, and there can jH be nothing daintier than the net frock with jH its narrow lace edged ruffles and lac jH trimmed fichu. Tlie narrow Vnlencienm-a and baby Irish are the most fashionable lacs to trim fichus for young girls, but fjl the finer mesh in imitation French laces is jH also in style. The heavier laces are rck- ' gated to older women. Jf It Is as well there should be some differ- M once between the fashions for the young B ghi and her mother in these days, when HBa every girl wants to look old and every HBa mother wants (o look young. Tlie b-st HBl dressed girls to-day arc those who ar ;HBi pimply and distinctively dressed in a fash- hVJ jpD that Is suitable to the slender lines and 'flVJ clear complexions of youth, rather than laden down in the over trimmed' all , too HBl heavy S4yl9 and dark colors thai need the JH dignity nnd carriage of the older woman IflHl to hfte any distinctive or smart effect.' HBV .................. .......l... :HBJ |