Show - F2 ' TRAVEL The Salt Lake Tribune - -- IIMMItiMMEMMMIMEMNNWMItiMraMMIMMMtWMMIWMliMIMMOWIMWII0100gaNall Sunday January 26 1992 Spain's Alhambra palace is last sigh of the Moor : n Continued from F-- L:1ctcr r I 1 t e- ' 4 'et f a Late afternoon is the time to see the piece de i - k 1 t - P s ! i a L- ' -- - r - r '-'- 1 - - i ' a I a fr-- 1 II4 aat ae '' - 4 ' - ti V‘sd l I 2 01 A e 2 Uk i ei C't aaa es - d 0-- t!'tisi- I ' -- re- Within this inner sanctum of the Alhambra the Moorish sultans resided in opulent serenity Arranged into a series of courtyards the dwellings offered the rulers privacy and the perfect setting for it ' I -! a f - 0 --- ---- 1 Is e T '- - sy "I i 4A i1 's ' s 4I their sensual delights The most well known of these is - E se - - e y a t 1 I'l s- a I s- l -- - t t ''l ' I l as 0 VA i ) : ' 44 ' I I a 1 4 - aa r ' ' -- '-' S e -- e ie - ae ' a -1 ' ey - ' s ea - 7 s- - 14141114:-1-- - e ' -- - I ee e e '' ' - ' ''' ' l'') - - — - 's'e'llev" g tt a 1 k yard provide cool shadowy ") it 4 ee l It1 V- It's easy to understand - 4 - 4 1 17- 's4:''''N'' '''' 1 - k ' f 0 a ' - -''''''' --e "e!"---- '''e-- t te N4- -- Yelak''esever:sV-te 4 ': 'e' sle-'4J- 's'i Fb -- tP-'- ''- le-- 4 't 1 1 A A - e es 1 vs- - - I1I 11 (d 414k 'eree a ! 1‘ ‘ - - s ' - ' - t - -' 1 7 ' 1 ' - -- r' 1 r-- for !! 1 ! - - 4 L - - g - 1 i 2 ' '4 d - -- ' --- i -- I- r'''' es'--e- 4 I - 1 - 1 'S ' 1 "--- s --- 4 - - - ' 4 Pug-face- d pL it ( "" - 6 - -- --- ri (1 - - 1 ka a town of 28000 some 80 road miles north of the Lost Coast playful" says Dennis Pecaut who has run King Salmon Charters weather permitting out of his 36-foot fishing boat Moku "They just seem to like it around here" Other animals like it equally Well such as the sea lions which have set up breeding grounds on several beaches along the Lost Coast and the mink black bear porpoises pelicans and occasional Roosevelt Elk that perhaps wandered over from neighboring Red- - offer daily flights from both cities Prices for a fare from Madrid is approximately $112 and $150 from Barcelona If you have some time and are traveling from Madrid you might consider Spain's national railroad system Renfe The trains are modern and efficient leaving every afternoon from Atoche station The trip will take you through the high plains of Spain's interior and the landscapes will no doubt call up images of Don Quixote It's quite a bargain at $30 Parador San Francisco is one of the- most popular places to stay Housed in what was once a 15th century convent its only moments from the Alhambra and offers clean quiet rooms Prices range from $100 to $150 Start making your reservations at least six months in advance Contact Paradores de Turismo Calle Valazquez 18 Madrid Telephone - oltej s 1 1 1 1 - 1' -- 114 33133 (305) 358-199- Dan Klinglesmith ver Co in tr 4Z 1 1 -- : IS King Range National Conservation Area: Contact the district office US Bureau of Land Management 555 Leslie St Ukiah Calif 3 95482 (707) - ' I esels------ I in cles Of course if the weather's bad or the roads are impassable there's always the Beachcomber Inn back in the town of Shelter Cove The rooms are nice the Continued from 13 - - s - - ing shears But some in the Indian fashion have themselves suggested the person they should be pained for For instance the Emily Tree came naturally Shortly after Emily — our first granddaughter — was born we were given a dogwood And tiny so now we have two little pink Emilies in our lives one of them blooming in the protective shadow of her mother's tree the Shannon I I 1 pink-flower- i i Tree : That left two grandsons — Joseph and Kevi- n- in need of trees And we had no idea at first But gradually it came to us: Joseph soon to be 6 is our son's 1 just turned our daughter's son They love each other's company They laugh and roughhouse together all day They are the best of buddies Joseph springs from a marriage that didn't last And when the courts began the custody arrangement of passing him back and forth between his parents we worried at first about the effect on the little guy about how he would take all that moving We worried a lot about it Needlessly so far He seems to thrive on moving And then last summer while building an addition to the house we received the terrifying news oak tree would have that a - 20-fo- to be moved to a different part of the yard — in the July heat the worts possible time to move a tree of any site let alone one that large A tree expert gave it a chance at survival But if we didn't move it it was dead wood anyway So move it we did It never lost a leaf It is of course called the Joseph Tree because it thrives on 50-5- 0 moving The Joseph Tree has a twin another oak a few feet away Together they frame our view of the river protecting us from harsh sun and high wind reminding me what it will be like in my dotage to have two big husky grandsons to protect me from the 20-fo- yl $ 4 4 1 f i i 1 ' ' ' t : - 1:1 t t--i t 71 133 il go I h"4"-'- - a 1 3 p (11-I- 1 0 - 0 - 1 - 00 I7 J 14:11 -- esesea -- ests le a s ' 's e t i ' - v Z ov- t ' 1 ' teio v 1)10 - - itttttuttittttst- - - - I PI- :1- -- t 2 t 0 L44 i I a i swee' 1 ' No il f l I 3c-11):)(-5-- 0 - I r614 tsi- I ' r r1T - a I 't I It i ill tiiikil It kira41 07 - as 1 yg)-O43 s ' t"110 Tr I A i - ee : 4 I I '414 V:171ai t kril I:4 CI s ' f ti 444k1I ' i10)b))1 1 - 6i1P)Itil I il e - 1411) -— a tc:t113 F - l c41114--v11- - - 0 t tti:orriThi 41111' ''S 54 t - - I ‘ 1l ti ' I1-i- 40 aa F i 1 J v easesassassi (40 0) 7sioI:‘1 9 1 11 I s ifil l 11 i 1 se ta lise - 1 ': 7tP--U''--- tIT private 442-347- til 1 et- - -'' 'e siAVs-ok-‘iis14 Dan Coyle writes for Universal Press Syndicate angry politicians have teased too much in print So of course the other tree is now the Kevin Tree I look out that window and see Kevin and Joseph — growing tall and straight and strong the best of buddies playing together in the wind And I get more out of that than shade It lets me know whether we plant trees or grandchildren we will be represented here on Earth long after our leaves have fallen That's why people are so fond of growing grandchildren and trees 1 1 I ss e aseta s 4 1 7414--e' t t "--- -'- Bill Hall is editorial page tor for the Lewiston Tribune (Idoho) a Salt Lake Tribune group newspaper It: : al r1 im - k a 1141j 1 11 ay - j hriTt-- ' - - 'trri- '' :''tit' '1 - slelsiteseAlksts11 ' 1 I t l 1 ) i1 r v s: kl - - I ) -- ii iy i all IA e see ---— r Is e 4 '''11 Ir - T t es' 4 -s- : !: ' - s ' :i ': i a t 41 t- L--- i 3 i s I 4 1 -s ii- ri -4 N - -- -') se i Y: Ie L 6 I " i cs a yy iee k o rarsvollar0-egoams- ' tyili Iii)alLitLeteail!a! - e 1 Ii -- - 't s - ----8 tt4 p '' - 4"'pt 4 cl - 7 ti i a I ' ' - i i 'D- edi- I iq'ciit '' i" - I til401P11-4114tirl- ' it-ilit- 'o stif''7'- i - 111it'011144t5''ifitili01jii(i:--'-- I - 1 s 1 charters are available through King Salmon Charters 3458 Utah St Eureka Calif 95501 (707) - I a - I dp- ri utii$ tii -- T : el zitits 4 4 as e- e - - rfr q t tfivrl -- :' ri f New -a- I - - l" 1 0 4101000101F- - 90111 1 see ' sa t ea:1-'- - A- r rg 1- - P' - ti(irii-r-ra-r1- t r 11Egri i1 -- a) if( Li 1 a 462-387- Love 'cm or Hate 'cm t You Can Read About 'cm in The Salt Lake Tribune Sports Section! i s ‘ - Ista whale-watchin- g I k el e t J s t ' - -- 1 es - i e : - 1 i - : I 1 kb r f z T rtz 1I i kSiT 1 - t RESOURCES For a ) II Den- Pocket Guide to the Humboldt Coast" by Bob Lorentzen (Bored Feet Publications Mendocino Calif 1988) If you decide to leave from Shelter Cove be aware that the first three and a half miles of vehibeach are open to k j '‘ 1 Ist tr' 1 - - 't es 11 s'd I r''''-- i Lifilpfc - 4 (11111I 1 lives 1951 3 is 0 l 2 prices are reasonable and you can see a good chunk of the coas- t- en rout2 from the driveway son Kevin who I i - A tree named Joe has more to it than leaves and shade F-- 1 1 '' ' 68 'Admission to the Alhambra complex is 475 pasetas roughly 8 1 eel ti! I atc i ti1 1 1 ' 1 - ?!ore of a grand hotel it offers rooms from $100 to $150 Be sure to ask for a room with a view of the city The hotel is located at Calle Pena Partida 2 Telephone 22 14 $475 The Alhambra is open every day from 8 am to 8 pm For more information contact the Tourist Office of Spain in Los Angeles at 8383 Wilshire Boulevard Suite 960 Beverly Hills Calor in ifornia 90211 (213)658-718Miami at 1221 Mickel Avenue Suite 1850 Miami Florida eas I - one-wa- y 435 97 00 The Hotel Alhambra Palace is situated just below the fortress a -- 1P11- - 'Ili ' 71100 1 six-ho- Shelter Cove or take one of the several jeep tracks that cuts to the heart of the Lost Coast No matter which is chosen it would be best to two-mil- i 1 1 L1Tt T i ( one-wa- y wood National Park The wrecks of several ships dot the shoreline shared by the battered concrete ruins of a lighthouse that kept There are grassy headlands on which to pitch a tent and small canyons that wend through the e inKing Range at about tervals supplying fresh water and a shelter of ferns and hardwood forest Although the Lost Coast is off the beaten track there are several ways to get there Either hike south from the town of Mattole River or north Qom the town of 2 1 1 a "Some F-- I 1 ' - :1 Paradise can be found on the 'Lost Coast' of California a Continued from s I lietial i national airlines e' -- - s f 1 Boab- - &I's lament If you go: Granada is located in southern Spain 271 miles south of Madrid and 539 miles west of Barcelona Iberia and Aviaco the Spanish s e (1 ea retreats from the Spanish sun 4 4P t v$ sel yea-- e '' e a' -Linger here Daydreams unfold ‘1":: ''' t e e'e''' ' s and perhaps conjure up visions of '" ‘ i I 114 a'-- ' ! ' esm"ti turbaned caliphs with their silk e 1 ke 0'1' t" '"' et 4"144 -nee- sal sa 64'ff ' t't t tt veiled harems lounging on damask et 4 t pillows Or perhaps darker images --'g I intrude of the treachery of Boab2 1 1 i e se dil when he beheaded 36 courtiers t e here in a fit of rage Beauty and 4 ' the beast have both reigned in this t ! f s realm ' a 1 On more than one occasion i iii :21 ' these palaces have spurred the s ' ' t I ' ' i 1 of and kindled flights imagination ' ' I fancy Washington ther of the American I dwelt in the Alhambra I months in 1826 During his stay he s t t ' t roamed the grounds and it" '' a4 s 4 e i " --svignettes of life fact and I e Leasa-- a - '""--- -t legend based on the history of — —1 t what he referred to as 'this old enit chanted pile' a i One of his favorite haunts was aea the Generalife This informal esa -- a tate that sets on the terraced brow a 2 S '' :'4 as of the hill above the Alhambra was " eS the summer retreat for the Moors i s a ish kings It's the perfect spot for "- '' ' ' an early evening stroll especially I s k ' I 1 if you're romantically inclined re"' - - --s - - i s- 0''''''' : Irving found it inspiring and"i I I I e e - a used it as the setting for his tale '' 'The Pilgrim of Love' Prince Ah- es Patrick Somn med Al Kamel the main charac- ' cats support the tinkling fountain in Courtyard of the ter is imprisoned in one of the Lions The pavilion provides cool retreat from Spanish sun mansion's towers Here he is secure from the knowledge of a pas- fables here with couples strolling the sion which the court astrologer ' Few places are more suited for cool walkways or resting on has predicted will befall the fu- - s Cupid's arrows than the Genera-:lif- e benches set in balconies that overture king As fate would have it a Leafy arbors wind through look the Alhambra At dusk as chance encounter with a dove tracts of rose beds vibrant with groundskeepers make their rounds and announce closing time changes his life The dove tells the i colot and heady with fragrance guests rouse themselves from young monarch of a fair princess ' Hedges of myrtle surround intheld in a faraway castle Kamel es- -' inate stone paved patios Frogs their reverie slowly leaving the ' capes his prison and after a long tpeak out from underneath pads of bewitching gardens Frequent and lotus petals and croak at passers- - stops are made to admire one last finds the princess journey wins her favor The young lovers by before disappearing through rose or gaze at the changing hues return to Granada and live happi- jets of spouting water of dimming sunlight on the walls of is Such are indeed ever the of the citadel after way Evenings special ly 1 ' ar e - - -'' '' "4' I afIyNo'NrNi '4 4 i - 07( jf7 ''' 7 ' 1 - a - ert - a 4-- ' lie-"P 4 12'14kr" OA 'r-4oc- ': - sac - t 'cr -- ek-- N k l s e Walls of Alhambra have repulsed invaders today provide visitors a commanding view of Granada i I 0 ril t- ' Vtftgl 1 ON Spanish Nalsonal Tourist Office - "' a a t ' - - ) y s - - 1'a" -- - t - ey I - ' I ' 4 tar - e - t t- a : - s sees A i f1 g 1 ' ttAt - A 7 ase ' 1 if A L—T 3 e - t ti i 1 1 ' a se se - d - i: s 1 ssa the Courtyard of the Lions spillover to shallow ponds Around the perimeter runs a colonnade of thin trunked columns Like a forest of petrified saplings they stand motionless holding a canopy of delicately worked gypsum that spreads upward into boughs of laced arches Swallows swoop through the stone branches and chatter endlessly echoing the trills of the waterworks Lavishly decorated pavilions on three sides of the court- -6 il i 1 - oi ti 1 - -- ' l - 1 Twelve pug-fac- e cats stand in a circle around a font that purrs with the sound of rippling water Two narrow rills line out from either side of the fountain to carry - ' 1 t i re els e - -- : 1 7-- I 1 I I 1 Ir - ti' - a 1 I - y ' s s i I -4- 4e-14tor 1 1 corn-pose- ' 0 i 11 t - s- 1 r sistance the Nasrid Palaces disk-shape- a I so rt - r —: ""1 -i around nience will I 1 back later but your unused ticket stubs will allow other areas er admission This I 1--- I i I rt-- 1 - - Too soon the tour buses have begun to arrive and for hours the Alhambra is choked with people The best thing to do now is to take an early siesta Simply accept the fact that you will have to come I 0 - -- 1 1 a - I - 1 1 V )-- 11 t - 1 l 7 'MEn 0 A |