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Show The Salt Lake Tribune, T3 19H6 16, Sunday, February On the Galapagos Islands Mind-expandin- encounters are commonplace here g by William A. Davis Boston Globe Writer "The natural history of these islands is eminently curious both in space and time, we seem to be brought somewhat near to that great fact that mystery of mysthe first appearance of teries new beings on this Earth." Charles Darwin Voyage of the 'Beagle" (1845) ISLA SANTA CRUZ, Ecuador -The old rattletrap of a bus was named "Reina de Mercedes with no irony Queen of Mercies apparently intended. Mercy seemed little in evidence as the driver, ignoring the sometimes acute discomfort of his passengers, .drove full tilt over the corrugated and pothole-dotte- d dirt road. Only when the cry went up, Mira! Galapa-- ; Look out! Torgos! Galapagos! toises! Tortoises! did he slow down a bit, the better to make a slalom run through the procession of reptiles ahead. There were three of them plodding down the road: huge and slow, but very purposeful. They looked incredibly ancient, the heavy shells battered by time, the thick hide of their necks 9nd feet coarsely textured and dark gray in color rather like that of an and very wrinkled and elephant scarred. Slitlike eyes contemplated the careening bus and staring passengers with primal indifference, the exold pression, on their screwed-u- p faces bemused and superior. And why not? .. Primordial Flora And Fauna These, after all, were the Galapagos Islands, where primordial flora . and fauna may no longer be in absolute control but are still dominant, y were but . and . we and sweaty specimens of homo sapiens, a johnny-come-laly of a species whose ultimai survival is by no means certain. In the Galapagos, . where the dawn of the world seems like the day before yesterday, humencounters bling yet like this are commonplace. There was no question about who had the right of way: Once so numerous that the entire archipelago was named for them, the giant tortoises had gotten here first by a couple of million years, and, in a sense, it was they who had built the road. Tortoises lay their eggs near the shore, but spend most of the year beside inland pools and springs. gi-g- nt bus-wear- mind-expandi- . Over the eons, the steady passage to and fro of legions of tortoises created broad pathways between the sunbaked shore and the usually cooler and greener interior of the islands. These clearly visible old tortoise trails led the first visitors to the Galapagos, sailors from passing ships, directly to fresh water. On the islands of Santa Cruz and San Cristobal, where most of the population lives, the tracks have been widened and incorporated into the road system perambulating tortoises and all. Can Live Without Food Because they can live nearly a year without food or water, and are easily stored (flipped on their backs, they are immobile) the tortoises were in great demand in the days before refrigeration, particularly as a source of fresh meat on sailing ships making the long voyage to the Antarctic whaling grounds. Like all wildlife in the Galapagos, the tortoises are now protected by law. Protection came only just in time, for the tortoises were long slaughtered on a prowhaling ships often digious scale left the islands with hundreds of live tortoises stacked up like casks in and the species came their holds perilously close to extinction. One of the sights of Puerto Ayora, chief village of Santa Cruz and the visitor center of the Galapagos, is the tortoise pen at the Charles Darwin Research Station where subspecies of tortoises from different islands are not only bred and studied by naturalists, but also photographed and ridden by tourists. Station Established In tory laboratory, a place offering a unique opportunity to study the mystery of mysteries," the origin of life. The islands there are 13 major and six minor ones, and 42 named islets are 600 miles off the coast of Ecuador, which owns them, and about a flight from the port city of Guayaquil. Although located right on the equator, at zero latitude, the Galapagos are cooled by the Humboldt Current, which carries a flow of water from the Antarctic, and have a pleasant and temperate climate. Besides tortoises, the Galapagos are home to land and marine iguanas, sea lions and even a species of penguin. Also, to more than 80 different kinds of birds, from pink flamingos and boobies, to flightless comorants (their wings have atrophied from lack of use) and the mad jestic, frigate birds. blue-foote- d wide-winge- Unusual encounters are commonplace on the Galapagos. Particularly numerous are the tiny finches, birds that fascinated Darwin. He identified 13 species, each slightly different from the other as a result of Two Salt Lake City tour companies are offering bus tours to Provo for Ramses II: The Pharaoh and His ;Time!. now on display at Brigham University through April 5. Western Leisure, 142 E. 200 South, and Great Salt Lake Historic Tours, 1713 Princeton Ave, both offer one-da- y tours. Contact the companies for more information. ; " , Expect to get the royal treatment when you stay at either of Provos two bed and breakfast establishments the Pullman or the Chez Fontaine. I With Ramses II on display at nearby Brigham Young University, each establishment has gone all out to pro-- ! vide a home away from home. Pullman Prices at the range from per night; prices at the Chez Fontaine range from per night. Both, of course, include a full breakfast. For treatment fit for royalty conor Chez tact the Pullman at Fontaine at three-bedroo- 0 374-814- 375-848- environmental adaptation. The most g remarkable finch is the of breaks off the which spine species, a cactus, holds it in its beak and uses it to dig insects out ,of the bark of a great technological trees achievement for a creature with a brain like, well, a birds. Airport Arrival On Baltra Most Galapagos visitors arrive at the airport on Baltra, a bleak, rock-an- d cactus-covere- d little island that was a United States air base in World War II. The overview of the islands as the plane descends is an instant geology lesson, for it is obvious from the air that they could be nothing else but a chain of volcanoes. Some volcanoes are clearly dead, their craters shattered and empty, while others, wreathed in smoke and mist, are very much alive. Indeed, as was the case when the world was made, geological activity tool-usin- Tours and hostelries offered for Ramses II ! Except for a few settled areas, virtually all of the Galapagos are within the boundaries of Galapagos National Park. A valid park tax receipt is required to visit the various nature sanctuaries, and the first thing a visitor usually does upon landing at Bal-tr- a is line up to pay the $40 user tax. There are approximately 40 passenboats regularly sailger-carrying ing around the islands, ranging from small power cruisers to specially- - 1959 around-the-worl- r, week. A.' The research station was established in 1959 as part of the commemoration of the 100th anniversary of the publication of Darwins scientific blockbuster The Origin of the Species. Much of the research on which Darwin based his theory of evolution that life was not created in its present form, but evolved by natural selection and adaptation to circumstances and environment was done in the Galapagos. Darwin visited the islands in 1833, at the age of 24, while serving as naturalist aboard the Royal Navy survey ship Beagle, which was making a d voyage. He immediately appreciated that the Galapagos were a living natural his five-yea- in the Galapagos is intense. Earthquakes are common, and volcanic eruptions occur more frequently than anywhere else on Earth. The caldera, or central depression, of the volcano on Fernandina is 4 miles across and 3,000 feet deep and has erupted at least 10 times in the last century. In 1968, the Fernandina caldera collapsed, setting off a series of earthquakes that lasted for more than a . built miniliners accommodating up to 90 passengers. As a conservation measure, 90 passengers is the maximum permitted by law. Most of the larger boats pick up passengers at Baltra, but many also work out of Puerto Ayora. Ferry Across The Channel The trip to Puerto Ayora takes a couple of hours and involves taking a ferry across the narrow channel between Baltra and Santa Cruz, followed by a bumpy bus ride the length of Santa Cruz. The island at first seems nearly as bleak as Baltra, but lava grows greener and lusher fields, cactus and prickly pear gradually giving way to grass and hardwood trees the farther south one travels. Although the hub of the Galapagos, Puerto Ayora is a casual, friendly, dusty little fishing village of unpaved streets and 1,500 or so inhabitants. There are several hotels and guesthouses, the largest with only 14 rooms, and, also a few restaurants serving beer and basic meals (rice and fried including the blue-foote- 27258031 01 2?QfiE $28-$4- 2 13 major islands and more than 40 are part of the Galapalesser ones gos Natural Park, established in 1959 to protect the unique but fragile environment. Strict conservation measures are in force, and all visitors must pay a $40 park-use- r tax. In an effort to contain the number of visitors, cruise ships are no longer allowed to put into the Galapagos, but, a fleet of some 40 locally based boats regularly sails the islands. The largest of these, the Santa Cruz, is operated by Metropolitan Touring, an Ecuadorian tour company that offers the most extensive Galapagos program. k cruise on the Rates for a Santa Cruz are $955 to $1,525, depending upon cabin size and location Yachts, typically ranging in size from 4 to 16 passengers, can be chartered by the week for $2,400 to $13,500. Most boats are based in Puerto Ayora on Santa Cruz, the tourism center of the island, but many pick up passengers at Baltra, the small island where the airport is located. Tame, an Ecuadorian domestic carrier, flies daily between Baltra and the mainland port city of Guayaquil. The round-tri- p flight is approximately $312. Ecuadoriana, the national airline of Ecuador, serves Guayaquil from New York, and Eastern Airlines flies from Miami. one-wee- blue-foote- Many companies specializing in adventure tours have Galapagos programs. Society Expeditions of Seattle, for instance, has a an eight-da- y tour from Guayaquil including a five-da- y island cruise priced from $1,095. Tour groups are accompanied by national park naturalist guides, and because of Halleys comthis year et some tours will also be accompanied by an astronomer. For general information about the Galapagos, write to the Ecuadorian Consulate, 18 East 41st St., New York, XXX there are Most of the Galapagos N.Y. 10017. MURDOCK TRAVEL1 SPRING TEMPLE TOUR Mar. First Time 5 25-Ap- r. Endowment sessions at 8 temples-Manti- , SoutfAfftei St. George, Mesa (Special Los Angeles, Oakland, Boise, Idaho Falls, Logan. Pageant), AIJ7DmOIIAl5$I()OWGABIIljOlj4:& booby. d chicken or fried fish and rice), a couple of souvenir shops, a liquor the restore, the post office and search station, aside not much else. Whether you cruise the islands for a week on one of the large passenger vessels, charter a yacht or take day trips out of Puerto Ayora, it is essential to get out in a boat and visit several islands to have a real feeling for the Galapagos. The extraordinary abundance and variety of flora and fauna found in such a seemingly infertile environment is astonishing. Even islets that appear to be nothing but mounds of cinders harbor curious vegetation and often teem with birds. Astonishing, too, is the fearlessness of the wildlife. Never Part Of Mainland The Galapagos were never part of the mainland of South America which is why so many species indigenous to the islands are found nowhere else and were uninhabited until modern times. Dread of man has not yet been bred into the native fauna, and their tameness is both remarkable and touching. Small birds land willingly on an outstretched arm, and you can, as I did, walk though a colony of nesting d boobies and be regarded with only polite interest. Inspect mattheir extended ing frigate birds wings are wider than most men are without concern; walk the tall beach with sea lions; take a swim with a tortoise (they do a sort of clumsy Australian crawl) and have your sneakers sniffed at by a marine iguana, a creature with a face out of a sci-f- i horror film but the manner of a friendly puppy. Incredible and wonderful, amid jagged lava, prickly cactus and smoking volcanos, the Peaceable Kingdom exists. fCdliflt TfcjR tafiiOriCG- - feature unique bird and animal life, The Galapagos Islands Hurst Castle, Highway 1 to Monterey, San Francisco (Lunch at Pier 39), Palm Springs. Includes. Disneyland, You will have wlemples an exciting time and lots of fun on this Fun Time Tour A total of 16 meals furnished in this tour. $ 500 1986 dbl. occ. most popular alternative to European tours , this deluxe package includes Lima, Machu Picchu, Bariloche, Rio de Janeiro, Peulla, Puerto Montt and much more Also, temple stops in Sao Paulo. Santiago, Lima and Buenos Aires. Still the SCHEDULED TOURS ALASKA CRUISE TOUR & EXPO 86 SPECIAL y 12 June Departs April 13, 1986 19 days $2,449 Departs Feb 26-Jul- much, much more... all included in Take a 3, 4 or 7 Day "Fun Ship" lifetime... a of vacation a cruise for your low cruise price! Whether included... you decide to cruise the CaribVirtually everythings : a snacks meals and fabulous bean, the Bahamas or the Mexieight can Riviera shows different two youll enjoy the best nightclub day... a Carnival destination of all each evening at sea... the largest "Fun 3 casinos afloat... at least pools... Ship" 3 great bands and orchestras... 7 Day cruises Include free round trip air dozens of activities... dazzling dis- -' fare from over 140 cities. See your shopping... cotheque... duty-fre- e Travel Agent for money saving add-o- n air fares for 3 & 4 Day cruises and friendly passengers... exciting SIOO DISCOUNT OFFER. SPECIAL and service pampered ports... I CARNIVALS GOT THE Fill'd! Price is per person, double occupancy, plus port charges, and somevtfsat higher on season sailing dates Registered in Panama and Liberia. 3 Day Cruises to Nassau from S325 MARDI GRAS departs Ft. Lauderdale on Thursdays CARNIVALE departs Miami on Fridays 4 Day Cruises to Freeport and Nassau from $425 MARDI GRAS departs Ft. Lauderdale on CARNIVALE departs Sundays Miami on Mondays 7 Day Mexican RMera Cruises from Los Angeles from S975 TROPICALE departs Sundays to Puerto Vallarta, Mazatlan and Cabo San Lucas 7 Day Caribbean Cruises from Miami from $975 HOLIDAY departs Saturdays to St Maarten, St. Thomas and NassauFESTI-VAL- E departs Sundays to Nassau, San Juan and St. Thomas JUBILEE departs Sundays (beginning July 6, 1986) to CozumelPlaya del Carmen, Grand Cayman and Ocho Rios I This is an outstanding the advanced cultures of 9 tour highlighting great from the Depans Bible Oct 13 Apr following 12 $ m MAZATLAN 18-Au- 1,651 Departure HAWAII 7 nights at Waikiki tours per person tlout)ieo rupa'H. Please send me additional information and checked above 30-Sep- 1986 13 AQ Includes Hotel and Airfare AH CANADIAN ROCKIES & EXPO 86 SPECIAL t. 10 Aug. Feb $ A 4 Week in Waikiki Eteach holiday includes round trip airfare Hotel flower lei greeting transfers and more 12-2- 4 $ A Beach Sept. 24-0c- t. a brochure on the tour(s) I have Address 10 FUN TIME TOURS If TRAVEL 1 no answer Call 486-014- SALT LAKE 1 UT. Zip MURDOCK fjffZ Wilbur Webb 278-310- Stale City For Free Brochure Phone or Write 84109 36 S STATE L 521-785- 0 84117 PROVO 3I0N UNIVERSITY 377-970- 0 Q v Name FALL FOLIAGE i A 1 Dec 28 1986 nights m the beautiful Costa Brava Hotel Includes airfare from Salt Lake transfers hotel and all taxes 5 days CANADIAN ROCKIES & EXPO 86 SPECIAL Aug. ol great civilizations HOLY LANDS TOUR scenes CUM0RAH PAGEANT TOUR Air or Bus 5 July 2380 Evergreen Ave., S.L.C., (Big Relive the ancient struggles 1986 4 -- -- supposedly uncivilized people as well as today s modem Mexico 26-Jul- TO CHOOSO PROM and Nov BOOK OF MORMON TOUR CALGARY STAMPEDE y 7 June SIX CROAT SHIPS 18 OGDEN 84601 298 24TH SUITE 110 64401 399-550- 6 |
