Show NEW FASHIONS INDICATE MANY NOVEL FEATURES I i I I This ha has been sketching week In I New Yo York 11 French models that ar arrIved arrived ar- ar rived late last week have been exhibited exhibited ex ex- cx- cx at dressmakers dressmakers' openings R and b by whole wholesale ale houses who deal in dressmakers dressmakers' supplies including fabrics fabrics fab tab and garnitures And at these exhibitions tho those o who ho have received invitations in to be present havo have been privileged to use vcr very freely pencil I and paper for tor sketching and descriptive tive notes j One can tell after a little observation I tion Just which one of or the models will willbe willbe be sa say within the next I three weeks when the domestic manufacturers manufacturers manufacturers manu manu- have o had opportunity to du duplicate duplicate duplicate du- du plicate the Paris Pans originals o Generally it is ili the model that combines a certain er- er tam tain degree of ot practicability with novel style features and it is the one about which gathers the l greatest number of at dressmakers and their designers at the functions alluded to In the first para para- graph it is well weB to be a bit cautious in permitting oneself to admire adI admire ad- ad ad ad- mire that which the crowd admires It means that la later hater tel on there thero will be regret should one be s so o fortunate fortunate or or perhaps unfortunate unfortunate-as as to afford aCford to order a a. coP copy of or the model from the dressmaking department of oC the retail shop exploiting the newly imported original On the other hand however those who are arc privileged to give wa way p to sartorial impulse will vcr very likely be bc able to discard a garment g-arment so soon oon as the they wear weary of oC it or when it shows signs sign's of growing common So much b by wa way of or prelude The rho important thing about the new Paris Pant fashions Is that while many of ot the familiar features feature a arc aie e retained there aro are enough new ones to start something something some some- something thing of a 1 revolution In spring fashIon fash ash ion ions This will be welcomed b by man many of at tho those e in the trado trade who have ha expressed ex ex- pressed belief that radical departures I from current styles would stimulate i business for designers manufacturers and retailers Hoie i are the Important things to remember Collars are absolutely demode do- do mode skirts aro are longer and narrower the tho barrel drapery f is favored by a 3 majority of ot the French couturiers tho the waist alst line lino favored Is that of the Moyen age or 01 tho the alternative is found I In the normal line lInc sleeves are mainly 1 wrist St St. length length- the l kimono shoulder In Is Indor Indorsed cd in man many of the tho new ne garments More alten attention lion has been paid to I I dress designing than to suits The I former are developed In two or more I fabrics that s sometimes match mutch In color but are of or different weaves Embroider er cry ery 1 Is almost a as rampant nt as in other I seasons hut but the medium of or Its Hs ex expression ex- ex has hag changed Less worsted is employed beads be in various colors I and anti compositions are Hrc In great c and chenille and tinsel appear to have SUl survived SUt for yet another season I The Influence is evidenced in many of the new French models Jeanne c Hallo Halle has sent several sC dresses that have 1130 wide revers a rather short waist walt line across the front and an elongated effect at the back bock Some Some- times this back is gathered or plaited to a de deep p yoke and han hangs s as a s separate sepa sepa- parate pa- pa rate panel a belt passing a beneath it which Is drawn together In front and Worth have havo elected to make models showing showIng- the empire Hn line hub The Thc former Is represented by an elo- elo gant creation of or black satin trimmed with gold embroideries and narrow bands of black cr crystal stal an and blue crystal crystal crys crys- tal heads beads The bodice is ig cros crossed ed by narrow straps of oC tho the gold embroidered ered cred net and these pass over tho the shoulders shoulders ders and are again crossed In the center cen ecu ter of ot tho the back finally attaching to the top of the lone lone- r ninel nanel train The front of oC the skirt has lon long graceful grace grace- ful draperies that seem to ta taper er Into folded lines lineR at the ankles and arc re then drawn backward and anti lost host In the per per- strai straight ht flat train The latter seems to indicate a near return to the close fitting lines with which we were familiar about three years s ago In Indeed In- In deed this ma may be said of man many of or the thc French models for or while whilo there I is a hesitation between the full tun lines hines and narrow ones tho the preponderance erance ot offa- offa var or r Is un undoubtedly toward the latter hatter I fa-I White and black is Indorsed a again ln by the tho leading heading houses of the tho l French capital It appears in both hoth dresses dress's and wraps ralS an and Is likely to supersede the flamboyant colors which have havo been flaunted for the la last t several everal seasons An In Instance tance in point i IK is found In a wrap signed by Brandt It shows a adeep deep leep yoke oke affair of or cream white gros de Londres from which hangs a circular hat lar shaped cape of ot black satin The TIle connecting line is ornamented with embroidery embroider done in white cyrstal cyrstal cyrs- cyrs tal beads bends on the tho white cape pc and black CI crystals on the black material There Is is' no collar In the tho general acceptation of the meaning a l roll of ot the silk finIshing finishing tin tin- fin fin- tho the n neck ck This garment Is very cry elegant leg in its lack of ostentation and its free tree hanging Ins lines I Tailored suits are arc sadly in the mi minority minority ml- ml wherever the French collections are arc viewed One thing that may ma- mabe be said in their favor or Is that the styles i rovert revert to smart marl simplicity and that In Inmany Inmany inmany many instances It Is the three-piece three costume that will be favored for tor the I garb One ot of the tIle most effective cU C three- three piece models comes from It shows the dress of oC dark ark blue taffeta combined with coin soot snot foulard foulard blue blue with a n white spot poL Tho latter forms torms the plaited sides Elides of the skirt and anti the lower edge edg-e Is gathered and caught up to give a n suggestion of the harem skirt BEl Below w it appears a narrow hot bor der of th the blue taffeta which is ig also drawn up and accentuates the tho Turkish line The coat which completes this costume cos cos- tume is mado made of ot navy nay blue serge serg-e. It Is lined throughout with the tho dotted foulard and has revers and collar of or that material The is IR of or the three quarter variety varlet The ensemble ia is dressy without being being- CUSS fussy and doubtless It IK Is a style of ot demi deml that will appeal to many American women |