| Show kJ v ie ri I u S r J Plain Black w h a Mere Dash o of Color y f T the Vogue for f l' l lAA Early Summer d f t x 1 J sS e f j r i I r 1 t I I. I S. S c 1 y r t 1 1 j l Li r to L y I 1 1 i f. f vI f z 1 f I. I ft I t t. r r a rN I 1 r ti S 1 Sf ter r v 1 t T S c 1 r YAw 1 J N r Y t y t a 4 r r 4 t a L y S j I r r rr rt 2 r rr S r I a i I t 1 Y r k 7 Sf r. r 9 S t 1 I f r r f i Time Tea f. f Iti F J Panels of IW Jr Jf r i 71 r s 2 n J f r f f Cream eam Lace f 4 t 4 Tuck Themselves Them s 1 af r J 1 k I Ir r j I S IY J ir 1 I. I t J selves Under the Hem in inthe t the Front iJ a 4 t t t V an and d FI Float oa k ti Oi l Gaily at atthe l r t t the e Sides j t aA Q h d PAi I V Q I Ulry o o u L G a 0 C O o p 0 c o o o c B La L- L 1 i iMme a Mme ime Frances Brances Trances The Famous Creator of Fashions very interesting fashion SEVERAL f tendencies are revealed in the accompanying accompanying ac ac- companying illustrations the originals originals originals of which I showed at my recent open open- ing Of particular appeal to the woman who is planning her summer wardrobe they represent the newest trend in modish dress Their neutral tints are especially J admirable at this time when spring flowers are making their appearance One feature that I specially direct your youri i attention to is the disposal of fullness on the skirt This is drawn toward the sides where it may be e closely los y pleated or it may maybe maybe b be accentuated ted by panels Novel arrangements arrangements arrangements arrange arrange- ments of drapery also reflect the decoration decoration decoration decora decora- tion of the sides of the frock Another noticeable characteristic is apparent in the bodice While the style tendency dates ba back k to olden times when tight-fitting tight bodices and bouffant skirts were all aU the rage yet the modern woman will have none of the tight-fitting tight waist So instead of a nipped nipped-in in d'-in effect w we havethe have havethe havethe the snug-fitting snug bodice that depicts the thelong thelong long straight lines of the figu figure re In such bodices the material is drawn very very tightly across across the front and back but ut on the sides it itis is frequently disposed in soft folds th that t enhance the gracefulness of the for form Skirls Skirts Arc Lengthening 1 rh ii t skirts are lengthening is quite apparent although as I wrote in a recent article it i is b being ing done mostly by clever t artifice The union of panels of various I lengths the introduction of novel draperies draperies dra dra- and other attractive devices help to camouflage the descent of the skirt Black is favored greatly for the dress be it for daytime or 01 evening wear Of j co course it makes an an admirable background f for far r the dash of bright color or for the won von I i addition of such a filmy mate material ial as white de soie SOle 1 One of my creations which I r admire immensely is the dress of stiff black satin combined with beige chiffon This frock shows the long tight-fitting tight bodice which is so typical of the modes of the day As you will note the satin is drawn tightly back from the front so that thata a very smooth appearance ce is achieved On the sides the line is slightly irregular as the satin is inclined to fall in soft folds as there are no bones to give it the stiff like case outline that in gone by-gone years was considered so beautiful Outlining the round-cut round neck is an interesting interesting in- in in in- braid for this trimming is now faking the place of the once favored em em- The centre band of this braid is stitched in gray and white while the outer edges are done in beige wool wool the the whole being most effective There is a little bow of braid in the front while the armholes for armholes for they are too abbreviated to be called sleeves sleeves are are outlined with this thih trimming Around the overskirt this adornment is also used with excellent effect The fullness on the sides of ot the skirt shirt is attained by cartridge pleats These are disposed somewhat differently from those formerly in vogue They are arranged arranged ar ar- arranged ar- ar ranged over a piece of crinoline and set very very closely together This tends to accentuate the of the skirt as the crinoline although extending but a afew afew afew few inches below the w waist helps hold the pleats in position The underskirt is made of tongue-like tongue panels of beige chiffon which float merrily merrily mer- mer rily about as the wearer of this gown steps steps' forward I have haye named it Mary Mary as its quaint style brings to mind the ui Mary Mary quite contrary of childhood childhood child child- hood days clays The hat is an immense leghorn in the natural color The is is faced with black taffeta Black violets repose in the centre front and encircle a large rose rose of beige color that perfectly carries out the color scheme of the dress While pers personally nally I am most enthusiastic enthusiastic enthusiastic ov over r this dress it may be that y you u j t f r r Mary Mary She Is Quite Contrary Coni Con- Con 7 i in Starting K Out to Be Bea BeaVery a Very V Long Demure J Frock and Then Suddenly It Opens to Show a Very Short Skirt kirt of ol Beige Chiffon Chifton like the model which s 's s fashioned from black satin and white de soie spie even better It too is most attractive and rejoices in the name of Garden Party The black satin is drawn tightly about the figure and c caught at the sides The fhe white de soie is enriched with diamond shaped inserts of most exquisite exquisite exquisite ex ex- lace The only other decoration is isa isa isa a small lace flower perked jauntily on the left shoulder A cloudy scarf of tulle partly envelops the head hE-ad and is gracefully draped about the shoulders Hints for a Rounded Figure FigureA A rather intriguing drapery is a salient salient salient sal sal- feature in the gown of black meteor For this creation I have chosen to exploit the shiny side of the silk although should yo you elect you might develop this model mod l with the dull side outwards The meteor is drawn cleverly to one side and draped into ruffles At this line of contact between between between be be- tween the drapery and the skirt a cording is introduced and this more clearly defines the junction The corsage shows the V shaped V-shaped decol- decol that thatis is always a flattering line to the woman of rounded lines Under the arm the black meteor is cut away in generous generous generous gen gen- erous measure where the delicate tints of the flesh are repeated jn n the satin that appearing at these points also fills in the opening in m the front of the gown The black tulle hat with its embellishments embellishments embellishments embellish embellish- ments of uncurled ostrich depicts another of the favored ideas in the realm of milli milli- nery Such hats are arc usually fashioned on lines that affect the turban mode and are arc frequently distinguished by the tile beauty of their feather trimming An Another ther model is illustrated with the the gown that completes the gr group up on this page However the straggly ostrich gives Ii Feature 1921 1911 A w- w Kiss Soft Soft Shining Black Meteor Is Drawn up on One Hip Where It Decides to Become a Ruffle way to sweeping strands of paradise that are extremely long and you must ad admit t really very decorative The dress shows a charming union of cream thread lace and black satin The latter silk is quite soft and clinging Itis It Itis Itis is favored for the crush girdle and ties that appear on one side of the dress The satin is also employed to make the binds that give such a trim finish to the lace panels The front panel of the lace is tucked up underneath while the side panels swing free thus emphasizing what I have al already already already al- al ready written about the irregular hem and its relation to the new length of the skirt The upper part of the corsage dispenses dispenses dis dis- dis with the background of black satin The neckline is fairly high but it is d de decidedly decidedly de- de pleasing and is if anything more attractive because of the manner in which the satin is cut away With some of the afternoon frocks where the neckline is open tall taU of lingerie are worn These flare out in inthe inthe inthe the back in the style of the Medici collar or curve outwards more gently BO so that they reveal the lovely line of the nape of the neck The finest of lawn is a fabric frequently chosen for such delicate nations i Garden Party Party Of Of Black Satin with Bouffant Panels of White de Soie Sole and Lace and a Charming Flower of Lace Fine Irish lace as well as braid lace is also used for these dainty accessories of a womans woman's dress For those who prefer colorful touches in their neckwear there are arc innumerable fascinating creations Organdie is a well-liked well material and this season it is shown in many bright shades Onion peel turkey red tangerine and jade suggest some of the lovely colors that are worn T The e Use of Gingham Of course if you jou prefer something less striking there are delicate shades of gray as well as effects in pastel shades combined with white Perhaps too you will ill be interested in the gingham neck neck- wear One very stunning set of bright red and white checked gingham looks charming charming charm charm- ing when used with a black taffeta dress If you should wish to make any of this neckwear you will find that the patterns of gingham best adapted to this use are arp those with checks about three-eighths three of an inch in size Solid red and white or green and white are extremely look good ing Such sets are made with a plainly tailored vestee and Peter Pete Pan collar The straight cuffs are sometimes tied with ribbons rib rib- bons or when the collar is finished with a n small pleating or of the gingham the cuffs are arc designed designe in matching style |
