Show I 1 I 1 I f. f i SUNDAY MORNING APRIL 24 1921 TELEGRAM THE SALT LAKE TELEGRAM L JOYRIDE AROUND THE Copyright 1920 by the Wheeler Syndicate Syndic Inc t WITH DOR OTHY Worlds World's Highe Woman Writer r ARTICLE X Imperial Purple Pekin I Imperial Purple Pekin The The- forbid- forbid en cIty Is there any other city in hv ld about which centers so 50 much f h history story and romance so much that gues the imagination and fires the yr- yr LI think not and I never expect to toa a ave just such another soul sout satisfying as I experienced experienc d when I climbed own Wn out of the railroad coach at last nd d. d stood staring bLaring up at the high wall shuts in the wondrous old Tartar ity iy that for centuries upon centuries JS is been the capital of China The he station is outside of the city for fort t tube the time ime that the railroad was built Je i Told regime was in force and it was that such an invention of ot r r reign ign devils should enter the city it- it lf If r s so we passed through a great gatey gate- gate ay ayad y and on foot made our way through l crowded streets to the hotel which as s only a short distance away The he he Hotel des Wagon agon Lits Lit is x use there are no other beds in the orld so hard and bumpy as it has ex- ex pt the thc alleged beds in sleeping cars h. h s does not greatly matter however I Is' Is I aue s' s the life that goes on in this thise leer jeer e r old hostelry is so fascinating that J afford the time to waste Inep in ep anyway It is an old barn of or I place with enormous corridors or orun un tinges es opening out of each other o nd the walls of which are I merchants with their packs I embroideries and furs and jewels and all the won- won wares that Chinese skill can duce And Aid through these corridors flows most cosmopolitan crowd lie Ye Diplomats from every country l ider iier I r the sun officers in glittering Chinese mandarins in silken bes bps commercial travelers from arranging eat a t concessions with the government V soldiers of fortune beau- beau ul women in resplendent evening ns everybody from everywhere A Arid And d in these corridors the history of Ja ina na has been made and unmade for Ven iVen aven knows how long and is is' still in aking and there is no story so ange that you may not hear it here the very lY lips of the men men- who men who in the great adventure And nd nd while you sit in the lounge lounge- and and- Sip Tp and drink your pr dinner cock- cock Jor after dinner coffee the little come as stealthily and sl- sl tty tit as temptation itself and lay berou be- be you you rou on the table the bit of green l. l or the length of old brocade or 1 embroidered Mandarin coat that 1 ave looked at and they fall and andI I In n. n price until you fall for It and t.- t. k ci hotel is in the legation quarter quarters on of the city set apart ners and surrounded b by an enor- enor us and almost impregnable wall are ra-are are the embassies of all the for- for nations and before each the sol sol- its own nation stand guard the boxer uprising all for- for ners ers took refuge and withstood a la ed for months and here 1 the ie e outer wall wan the English have put L the grim legend Lest we forget reminder to both foreigners and andl l incase e. e legation Ui legation quarter is asphalted and andIn In mv- mv but the minute you OU pass through Buter outer gates you ou are are in the real realon fut on L and I think nobody can ever ver get t their first impression of a Pekin t J OF HUMANITY Sere here Is a crush of rickshaws there rickshaws there of them in the city which city which r like a flock of scared chickens I Ir r b n i occasional honking automobile I Ithem ses them by There are wheeled two-wheeled Tn m carts made exactly as they have for the last 2000 years with ht blue hoods and yellow wheels with great nail heads drawn shaggy ponies and weighted down I i aT couple of people sitting on the st There are heavily laden donkey ns and stately camels moving slow- slow off ff on their long journey through IM Mongolian deserts There are dees in ill shabby victorias with half izen izen n outriders on long haired ponies vei are hordes of people ng working chattering being wed ved ed in the open street Men go by loads on their back Fash- Fash ble be young men pass gorgeously at- at d 3 aj dandling a bird cage on their ers is as our young swells lead a bulla bull- bull ro r- ton o a leash Here come women bling along on their pathetic bound f r There are Manchu ladies in rick- rick vs with headdresses two feet high Everybody is wrapped up in furs padded garments as a protection the biting cold Trough ough this fascinating e of humanity we made our way ly IY to the Temple of Heaven one b be great sights of Pekin and one li tie he most beautiful structures Inh in inh inh h man has ever expressed the aspiration toward God On the I we e passed the place where the thenan thenan thenan nan government after the boxer sing ing forced the Chinese govern- govern tit build a great arch in memory laron Jaron von Kettler who had been dared dered during the insurrection and were emblazoned a list of the then's then's ns n's virtues and an official f regret for his death The first Tithe the the Chinese government did after i Jered red into the great war was to tod d wn this arch and chip off the and set it up in a park re reit it states In large bold letters letterst jt t commemorates The Triumph of ofIL i IL Over Might AT THE THEAH THEAR THEAR AR AH OF HEAVEN Temple of Heaven Is situated in inter jenter of a great park three and a ak amiles k miles around It is in a avaIl vaIl roofed with tiles of imperial and nd filled with gnarled snarled old cedar cypress trees You walk through and nd come first to to-a to a beautiful paT pa- pa pa-I pa j T called aIled the Temple of Abstinence nd iid this Is the Altar of Heaven ost sacred spot in China It Is a unroofed t structure consisting of ot circular terraces made of marble 1 bordered with a balustrade of e iTe- iTe eo exquisitely carved In a l fon of the dragon ascending to louds ds the marble still stilt as white as L. L Chough the suns and rains and anda a of f soo years have beaten upon it t a-t is laid with marble marblo in nine nin concentric circles There qute steps leading to each level nr stone is arranged in mutt muti- i- i the number nine the mystic ie pf f good luck Juck to the Chinese In enter center of the top terrace is one ono is supposed to be the cen- cen f e universe great cat good fortune to meet met i t f Yuan Shai Yi Yf once c court urt in the old Manchu day and the only person now living who ever officiated at the ceremonial Which took place althe atthe at al atthe the Altar of Heaven and he described it to meOn me On the eve of the of r January he said the entire court headed by the emperor would repair to the Temple Temple Tem Tern pie of Heaven Hea Everybody would be dressed in their most magnificent co costumes cos cos- tunics and with its flying banners the procession was one of inconceivable magnificence but the occasion was considered so solemn that every house along the way was closed anc and every ery human being removed from the streets When we reached the Temple of Heaven the glittering company spread over the grounds and camped there for the night but the emperor spent the night in fasting and prayer Jn in the Temple Temple Tem Tm- pie of Abstinence Just before dawn the emperor re repaired repaired re- re paired to the Altar of Heaven There was no light ex except pt that from three great bronze lanterns that typified heaven the earth and humanity Th The Theair air was heavy with the smoke of In Incense incense In- In cense that went up from the huge bra bra- Already the priests were offering offer offer- ing up the five different kinds of sacrificial animals whose bodies were being burned in the green tile furnaces A band played weird soft Chinese music The emperor ascended the white steps alone myself and two others following for fol- lowing behind He knelt upon the central central cen cen- stone that represented the center of the universe and took upon himself the sins of his people and prayed that the gods would punish him instead of them for their misdoings Then he went to each of the one eighty that had been erected to his an ancestors and made libations three times and prostrated himself nine times Umes before before- each one It is a ceremony so exhausting exhaust exhaust- ing that none but a strong man could endure it in that biting cold but it was dramatic and thrilling beyond all telling telling tell tell- ing as the sun came up and the sky 7 r 4 F. F Chinese barber barbershop shop turned into a blue arch above the white carved marble The emperor was dressed from head to foot in gray fox fur while the balance balance balance bal bal- ance of us wore sable but even then we almost perished of the cold Close to the Altar of Heaven is the Temple of Heaven where the emperor went to pray at New Years It is as beautiful as a dream and curiously enough it has been wired for electricity electric electric- ity for it was used by the convention that framed the constitution of the re republic republic re- re public of China Such is the whirligig of history re-I re Not far away is the Temple of Agriculture Agriculture Agriculture Agri Agri- culture where the emperor in the midst of his glittering court went to plow the first furrow In the spring to I start the farming throughout China About it are numerous altars to the gods of the winds and the suJ sun and the rain who hold the farmers' farmers fate in their hands The place is now used as barracks for soldiers but the Altar of Heaven and the Temple of Heaven are unused Nobody goes there now v to pray or to offer orter sacrifices for there is no longer longeran an emperor who is the Son of Heaven TEMPLES FOR ALL TASTES Another interesting temple is the Llama temple the headquarters of I Buddhism in China and where the living living living liv liv- livI I ing Buddha froth from sometimes I comes to visit It is a weird old build- build i J i r. r r I 1 17 4 1 1 I 9 j I S 1 S F C 5 1 I lf S r I t c s e. e 1 45 p 3 wa I SS 11 0 heaven i 5 Q-m Q 1 t S t 1 L S 9 S 5 4 s t 7 V 1 t j S Jq i ir r l j 1 main Tartar entrance city to th ing filled with yellow robed priests with many images which foreigners are seldom eldom permitted to see and which are areO areso areto so to O lewd that even the Chinese who leaven knows are no purists require 0 o be draped S It is a common thing for the Chinese 0 o give their little boys to the priest priest- ocd and we saw a hundred or two litle litle lit lit- le Ie rogues who winked at us and grim- grim iced and fought among themselves while they pulled their yellow shawls about their shoulders and chanted the tho theO O 0 Mani Hona which hangs like an echo about every Buddhist temple temple tem tern pie and is said to mean How beautiful beautiful beautiful b ful is the fragrance of the lotus flower Not wishing to show any more preference preference preference in religious matters than the Chinese themselves who are gorgeously liberal in their beliefs we then went to the Temple of Confucius which is a splendid red lacquered building with nothing in it but th the mortuary tablet of I the great at sage who gave to his countrymen coun coun- the system of ethics on which I coun-I millions of them have modeled their lives Before the tablet was a mat I worn into tatters by the knees of the devout So many come to chin chin jossman josman explained the guide to the temple were lines of j tablets erected by various emperors to Confucius and in a neighboring temple were great slabs of stone on which were engraved raved the first three books of Confucius lest fire might some time me destroy the printed word Of course the one place in Pekin that piques the curiosity of the the traveler more than anything els else is the forbidden forbidden forbidden forbid forbid- den city in which until the revolution on no foreign n foot might enter There is still a little of it that is forbidden a aUn Un tiny corner where the present Manchu emperor a half grown boy who Is lit littie little little lit lit- tle tie better than a state prisoner is caged up with a few members of his family A CONTRAST OF OLD AND NEW For or the rest you ma may wander through the narrow streets among the yellow roofed palaces and bolt looR your fill upon the places laces where so many strange and weird events have taken place About eleven miles miles' to the west of Pekin ekin Is the marvelous summer palace where the old dowager empress spent most of her time and where she spent on building in a lake a pavilion in the shape of a carved marble boat the money that the government had ap appropriated appropriated appropriated ap- ap for arming and equipping the Chinese navy it was because of this that the Japanese navy whipped the Chinese navy so easily in t the e var between the two countries The summer palace with its fairy bridges and Its carved marble arcades Is a vision of beauty but bunt It is fast fallIng fallIng falling fall- fall Ing into decay and yon wonder that the the- Chinese have not wit to preserve it as ft A. show place even if they have no cause to remember with gratitude the she-devil she who sat so long on the dragon throne and barred the country so successfully from progress Around the summer S palace hang half starved men These were the eunuchs the men who were the actors the scribes the of the old empress empress' cm- cm press press' household and who found their occupation gone with the passing of ot royalty They and the ladies ladles In waitIng waitIng waitIng wait- wait Ing to the empress have literally lived by ly y selling off their wardrobes and it is from these sources and from the nobility nobility nobility no no- impoverished by the republic that come the brocaded and f. S S I crevice of the windows and doors of the house so that foreigners have at least one room with double windows to to which they retire during a dust dusti torm orm There are two things in Pekin that fill every American with pride One is the splendid university built with the money money which America refused to take as her part of the indemnity money assessed by foreign nations against China for the boxer outrages The Theother Theother Theother other nations took th theirs irs but America used hers to build this great school and to establish a fund on the income of which fifty young Chinese students are sent to America to be educated every year The other thing to which we point with pride is the magnificent group of buildings that the Rockefeller foundation foundation foundation tion is erecting These will hous house a a. great medical school a a. hospital a training school for nurses and a laboratory laboratory laboratory labo labo- for research into oriental diseases diseases diseases dis dis- eases and will be an untold benefaction not only to China but to humanity at large for its it's a little bunch of ot germs now that makes the whole world kin And it is because of these things that the very name America is a w word i i to conjure with in China |