Show BROADLY Y STRIPED FABRICS POPULAR Sleeves Sleeves leeves Are Quite Large a ands and dl I Reach Reach- i to Wrist Shoulders Still Narrow Waists Not Clears Clearly Y Def Defined ned Ch Checks s and Plaids Have Reappeared Have Reappeared Various Sha Shades es of Gray Are Much in EY Evi Evi- dence I 4 NEW YORK Feb 12 Thc The The situation situa- situa tion n in Paris today is exceedingly in In- in-I in France is racially dra dra- dramatic dramatic dra 1 matic and she has been able to infuse Infuse infuse in in- fuse into what might have been dull dun times a condition that has put the dressmakers of two continents continents conti conti- I into a state of irritation She is s like an actress who is constantly before the public through a a clever trick of advertising that keeps h her r rin in jn the eyes of the the world Not for a moment since the war began began began be be- gan has she allowed the American sartorial system to be quiet The various various va- va rious artful and altogether stimulating stimulating ing ways in which she has has has' impressed herself upon the public have been taken up too often in th the last eighteen eighteen eight eight- een months to be repeated but the fact that the dressmaking world of I Paris has never allowed itself to be pushed aside by the war in either interest interest interest in in- terest or activity is a phase of this world rebuilding that should be incorporated incorporated incorporated in its history I It shows that the dressmaking no world rid of ot Paris has the innate dramatic instinct instinct instinct in in- the kind of trait that keeps your your n name me to the fore tore no matter what I other conditions are tumbling down with a crash that will resound through the centuries When there seemed to be a chance of a stalemate in the dressmaking battles as there is in the actual battle battle battle bat bat- tle line through Flanders and France the French syndicate of dressmakers I began a sharp artillery offensive that sent sent shells bursting and doing damage damage damage dam dam- age all along Fifth avenue and its adjacent adjacent adjacent ad ad- jacent territory The Tho syndicate as asa you know reserved reserved re re- re- re served the right to choose and pick among among the American buyers so that the business of importation would be beIn bei bein i in the hands of a few and not many r The reasons behind this right of jurisdiction jurisdiction ju ju- ju- ju were were s sound The French r dressmakers felt that that something drastic must be done to protect their original creations from cheap and wholesale copying In the United States England and Germany which was done In a way which did not contrIbute contribute contribute con con- tribute either money or prestige to them They also were rightly irritated irritated irritated In a discovery that the United States sold thousands of imitations of their models by using facsimile labels of the great French houses which are sold in this country This discovery was enough to try the patience of 01 a far more serene soul than the French It was forgery and dishonesty There is is no use mincing the words for the two facts have been established and there are jio no two opinions about the right and wrong of it Many of the best shops stooped to it Thousands of women bought gowns o bearing labels of the great French houses which were made in inthe inthe inthe the upper upper floors of American dressmaking dressmaking dressmaking dress dress- making establishments and for these gowns they paid the exorbitant prices' prices J that are arc are asked for imported French gowns because of the duty Our dressmakers dressmakers' said they were i driven to do it because American women women omen refused to buy American gowns go but the number of these women women women wom wom- en is so so few In comparison with the female population of this country that the argument sounded absurd True there are many women who are are- in ing dined to this deception for they will baste a French label in a home m made de' de I gown but it can fool no one who knows an anything thing about clothes The one time when the French label has no appeal for for- forthe the American woman is when the ship is nearing American shores That chat hat last day on onboard onboard onboard board is taken up by the wom women n pas pas- stingers locked in their staterooms surreptitiously replacing French labels with soiled American ones Th ThI The I v f u AV fl iI r 4 i in Ito t 4 J r f J f 1 i h hit it r L III Sport suit of brown Jersey cloth first day on shore they I d the spend doing work all over agai again The French Situation Today I There was was good excuse in the light ot of this discovery for the French dressmaking soul to ruffle its up feathers like a wet hen And it was natural that they should make drastic experiments these toward stopping both of practices in America However How How- ever the experiment they made a few weeks ago brought nothing but strained between France and a America and Possible disaster It was meant well and it sounded well on paper but it worked badly from the start Its initial adventure in boycotting certain American buy buy- ers era resulted in over here that personal a widespread prejudice feeling wal wa was going SOME to to rule the decisions When the great house of Callot with drew from the s syndicate it looked as though Paris was beginning to get uneasy under the new rules as well as America then when withdrew with with- drew with her vast American following following follow follow- Ing and lastly Jenny the idol of the moment with Lanvin technically excluding her millinery from the sy syn rules and wavering and undecided as to whether she would stay in the situation broke hopefully for the American buyers Today the streets of Paris are thronged with Americans who are over there to bring back the new gowns I hear that everything is 60 50 per cent more cheerful than it has been since August 1914 The cafes along the pavements are filled with people the restaurants are open until 1030 at at night and even if the audiences audiences audiences audi audi- in the theatres are made up mostly of wounded soldiers the plays are clever and interesting All the dressmaking houses are open little and big with even more than their quota of new models and L j o j i. i j t t rc 4 5 i arP A V 4 I I I. I j AlP Smart little tailor sailor of black straw with black pate patent Jeather leather quill the Americans who are over there to lo buy are greatly Increased in number over the the last last two seasons The submarine submarine sub sub- marine scare seems to have died down and although the majority of American shops have not coerced their buyers to go abroad all the houses are represented because there is a renewed and increased interest shown by Americans in going to Eu Eu- rope The cables are now coming in giving giving ing us meager details of the new frocks but it is too early In the month to gain any comprehensive idea of what is being done There is no marked change in the silhouette Military ideas are being gently incorporated incorporated incorporated into the general scheme Sleeves are quite large in the one- one piece frocks and reach to the waists Shoulders are still narrow waists not notto notto notto to clearly defined There is an effort effort ef ef- ef tort fort to flatten the skirts front and back and get the width by a draping draping draping drap drap- ing of ot the material at t the sides Skirts of or on one one material and coats or bodices of another will continue to gain favor Broadly striped fabrics grow in pop pop- Checks and plaids which were brought in with the landing of the I Scottish regiments in France have reappeared after the public thought I them eclipsed new weave weave of Jersey cloth is evidently to be a anew anew anew I new feature of the spring suits The use of it is strongly accentuated and I it has been made a rival to serge and gabardine Gray in various various' shades will be one of the best of the spring colors Dark blue has not lost its prestige Black will vill not be constantly offered in every form of garment Ribbon used in a variety of ways will play an important part in trimmings trimmings trimmings trim trim- especially in ornamented tabs placed in thick groups after the fashion fash fasts ion of Goya and Velasquez Several months ago the French designers de de- designers signers substituted gray for black in their scheme of things This Tills was done between the last semiannual opening and the beginning of the new year The house of is famous for its partiality toward this color possibly because Madame wore it and it suited her bright beauty The American women either did not know that gray was in fashion or they did lid not care to to take it up P. P for there were not many gowns of it this sea sea- son It Jt was rarely worn in the afternoon afternoon after after- noon and seldom in the evening Bright colors held their own throughout through out the year although we have heard litLIe little from from the textile people but the shortage of dyes Most of the industrial concerns threaten us with a deluge of white gowns because nothing can be b done donet t to supply color so BO if this dire prophecy comes true it is a waste of time to discuss the colors color that are coming into fashion We are a bit skeptical about the allwhite all allwhite allwhite white regime for we heard that last summer and yet at every gathering of women last summer their costumes glowed like a Bakst Balest setting for the Russian ballet So suppose we talk about the new colors anyway ant and trust to American ingenuity t to be beable beable beable able to display them in our costumes this summer and gray in its pearly I tints is to be featured not only in frocks and suits but in separate blouses Woolen voile will be brought into first fashion and in gray it will be used for shirt waists as substitutes for the beige that held its way so long Woolen Voile Volle and arid Jersey Cloth Years ago we wore woolen voile volle It lIt quite quit captured our fancy and therefore it may do has put his seal on it and also on a anew anew new quality of Je Jerry y cloth that will willbe willbe willbe be used for coats and skirts It is possible that the former will try its hand at rivaling silk everyday frocks and Jersey cloth will enter the ranks against serge and gabardine Neither fabric is new The former is a revival and the latter has been with us for several months but both bothof of them will be strongly featured throughout throughput the succeeding season They will gain somewhat of a reputation reputation reputation tion for being new b because cause the public pub lic lie is not familiar with them There is no doubt that women will like the new weave of Jersey cloth for they are anxiously looking for a substitute for serge serge in spring spring- suits Taffeta and ribbed silk have been offered offered offered of of- over and over as substitutes for the woolen fabric but the Anglo- Anglo Saxon woman whether she be in England England Eng Eng- land or America feels more more content with a thread of worsted in her street s suit stilt it until hot weather comes comes' and makes it unbearable Even through the dog days she likes feel to feel that su such h a coat and skirt are hanging hanging hang hang- ing in hl her wardrobe ready for an emergency The new Jersey cloth has something some sonie- thing of the feeling of the sweater and while the larger part of its us use may be confined to life in the coun coun- try and in in small towns there is good reason to prophesy that it will find I its way in the streets of the great centers Brown is one one of th the colors that I the dyers of ot the new Jersey cloth evidently evi evi- evidently dently like for some very smart suits I evl-I of it have appeared Brown has not 1 been among the fashionable shades I for several seasons We have quite I ignored it although we have given a I warm slice of ot our affections to its pale sister beige Probably the welcome accorded the leather tones has suggested suggested suggested sug sug- to the dyers the introduction I of real brown The reason however is a negligible factor in in- inthe the UIA condi condi- tion The fact remains that brown as well as gray is a color to be recKoned reckoned reckoned reck recK- with from now on Placing P Peltry on Muslin There was so much distaste on the part of or the fastidious ones for fur tIr by bythe bythe bythe the time the new year ear arrived because because because be be- cause of its lavish use in women's app apparel during the last six months I that everyone thought its day was done and yet here it reappears in in a variety of capricious ways For Form Form- in stance one of 01 the Palm Beach hats hat of striped blue and white linen liMn lay la is edged with fur and s idea of combing skunk out to make it look like fringe and using it for trimming has started an entirely 1 new w development development development develop develop- ment of the usage of pastry He first brought this put out on a Britany Brit Bri- Brittany tany gown of purple and white striped stripe silk and velvet and then the milliners took it up for the new straw hats If you want to employ some of or your leisure time at home in arranging fv ft- instead of ot embroidering you OU try your luck at achieving a result with ah an an old piece o qt I fur and a thick comb iti Y n f. f Jj iJ tJ l w ir 1 ry I tit isn f y i tt J I f I 4 I. I i D j L 1 h I 1 t fTh- fTh r H i Y j rM Hat of blue and wh white te striped linen lawn edged with brown fur |