| Show > s r i t ti I r J I 11 c ° f o i4r co r j rIJ f Y w = a LL2a LL2at t 1cS n r 1 I I J s LIV I mil e L 1 = S J s 5b i s oC l a2 s r J a b Gr A d v Soii MRS McKIN LEYS INAUGURATION GOWN r PARIS FASHIONS I SPRING INFLUENCES ACTIVELY AT WORK AMONG MODISTES Snow in the Air Muslins in the Shop WindowsNew Wraps Are Gay Confections of Lace and Ribbon Rib-bon Among the New Spring Colors Col-ors Light Drab Fawn and Delicious De-licious Pinkish Gray Are Most Q Popular Small Toques composed Com-posed Entirely of Blossoms Find Greater Favor Every Day I Flounces Are Largely Employed in Renovating Old Skirts Paris Feb 9A fashionable Parisians Par-isians winter is divided into two parts During the first half she is preparing pre-paring for that which is to follow Her time is spent in the delightful business of shopping in visitingbeating up the friends scattered in the course of the I summer and cementing new acquaintances acquaint-ances made at the seaside or in the course of traveland in the pursuit of I such outdoor amusements as may bed I eiuuvtru v This yearning toward a springlike 4 toilette in midwinter never prevailed to such an extent as it does this year nor has millinery ever cast away its somber features at an earlier date For smart costumes there is no material ma-terial more in vogue than cloth and the favorite colors are light drabs fawns and grays By the way a suggestion i It is best to cut closefitting cloth bodices bod-ices on the cross and so avoid back seams or darts The blouses here mend to the figure They set smoothly over the shoulders Some of the boleros are extremely short cut in halfmoon curves from the neck to the armpits others Just Inclose the bust or come nearly down to the waist SPRING MODELS Here are some combinations selected 1 from among Doucets latest Pale brown cloth skirt and bolero ornamented with j chenille trimming white chiffon chem isette white Japanese silk draped belt lace cravat and rubles cloth skirt and blouse of a lighter shade of fawn bouffant of white chiffon jaunty al mondgreen velvet collar covering the shoulders black satin necklet and sash and skirt and light bodice of lavendar gray cloth the latter faced with cerise f efIO of cr velvet white I lisse i front White cloth skirt and bodice with application of guipure lace epaulets frilled with chiffon bouffant of the same maize satin necklet and waistband Thin chemisettes are also extended to costumes cos-tumes of homely cheviots and serges to which they afford a somewhat striking strik-ing contrast A pretty costume another an-other of Doucets consists of a skirt and blouse bodice of navy blue woollen the skirt is edged with a band of sable and the bodice cut halfhigh has a plaited red velvet bertha A chemisette Of cream lace opens above the bertha and between the open front of the blouse it Is gathered into a red velvet necklet and a belt at the same confines con-fines the blouse at the waist CHARMING WRAPS Out of doors of course the vagaries of the bodices are still concealed beneath be-neath a lightweight coat or cape To render canes a more sure protection they are often made so as to cross over the bust little pockets being added into which the fingers are slipped But on entering a room the cape is throwback throw-back or the coat unbuttoned so as to 1 expose to view the delicate finery beneath be-neath Even wraps are not exempt from the prevailing tendency Frillings of mellow mel-low lace are sewn inside and lane bows of bright satin ribbon outside the collars of all the new cases cunning devices of lace are devised which combine com-bine winter warmth with a spring freshness of hue MILLINERY TENDENCIES But it is the millinery that beats the record Spring and summer blossoms are not only lavished on felt hats and velvet toques thrusting plumage into the background many are made entirely en-tirely of flowers The palma violet and the purple hyacinth toques trImmed with bunches or sprays of the same flowers have met with immense success suc-cess Other toques are formed of light puffings of tulle in which chaplets of roses nestle Moreover the fashion of wearing the hat or toque tilted forward for-ward over the eyes is little in keeping c gluJ i t I Lit L 1 R Ra1 > j f tl t y 9 A r f it i f i t4 1 t r il r f fl Illi III I T Ili 1 u I I i I I I t < r A jI I I CLOTH STREET GOWNS i J 1l with a time of year when the sun is I the last thing to be feared Any one ignorant of the French climate I cli-mate lately embarked in the good city of Paris might well be forgiven for supposing that frost and snow are unusual un-usual visitors to Judge from the aspect as-pect of the shop windows where articles ar-ticles in gauze and lace delicate lined stuffs bright ribbons and flowers make so brave a show And if the newcomer r i I l 1 I r r c i L WHITE CLOTH has the entry to some Parisian drawing draw-Ing rooms she will meet women who look rather as if garbed for a garden party than for the discussion of a cozy cup of tea on a February afternoon I DINNER TOILETS i I Entertainments at this season generally gener-ally take the form of dinner parties for which demi toilet is required Satin or velvet skirts with high bodices In I mousseline de soie is a favorite combination com-bination Sometimes a tiny bolero is added and almost Invariably a shaped belt or corselet Married women are I beginning to patronize trains again I but rirls here do not go in for the matronly appendage Flowered silks on white grounds with narrow Satin stripes Liberty satins and taffetas make ua some of the most charming evening dresses designed this season for our girls A skirt of one of these fabrics will do duty for a dinner ora ball If made with a high and low bodice I bod-ice The latter are generally fashioned so as to come well on the shoulders either cut down in a curve back and front or square Short sleeves are made rather full and still deserve the name of balloons but the material used Is mostly something transparent Industrious women who make their own dresses will find the shaped belt a most convenient article of apparel Its It-s bv no means difficult to make and nothing gives a more stylish appear a ncs to a toilet Flounces provide an easy method of renovating a dress that has seen service Wide flounces reaching reach-ing to the knees in any sort of gossamer gossa-mer or lace are put on with very little fulness Narrow flounces are generally plaited a group of three on the edge of > the skirt and three more half a yard higher UP is a favorite style Light I silks look charming trimmed In thin way with plattlnus of plain taffetas chosen to match one of the colors in the pattern The art of renovation is one by no means to be disdained In some I respects the fashions of the day deserve the epithet of extravagant nevertheless neverthe-less the admit Of varioils little artifices I arti-fices and the changes that have been I wrought within the last few months are not of a kind to render transformations transforma-tions impossible Those who have tout to-ut their coat according to their cloth need not fare so badly The suppression ot a breadth the paring down of sleeves to present proportions works wonders while the addition of a few ards of frilling some dainty bits of lace a bunch of flowers or a bow of bright ribbon provides the requisite touch of springlike freshness prema urely demanded bv fashion KATE F YAPP |
