Show r UNLINED GOWNS Al SUGGESTION FOB s EARLY AUTUMN AU-TUMN DANCES AND DINNERS The Clever 11 en an JEiigrlisli Girl Picked Up in New Orleans and is NOT Applying to Her Wardrobe in Preparation For Next Winter These Pretty Evening FrjocJUa Are Novel and Inexpensive New York Sept 1IIere is a thrifty secret What is well worth imparting to all womankind which appreciates the value of making one dollar do duty for ten The idea is to make up a number of fluffy filmy evening frocks that costa cost-a mere nothing and can be worn over crisp warm silk slips In many cases these are worn over complete undersuits of silk Any one of the three designs here shown can be reproduced in the materials mate-rials described for less than 20 They I i f > WORN OVER SILK STRIP were taken from gowns thought out I and worn by a clever English girl at present visiting Saratoga and who went to New Orleans and fell in love with Creole styles METHODS OF MAKING The first dress like the other figures given was made in the French quarter of New Orleans and cost all told 19 The materials were canaryyellow organdle pure white footinga plain edged lace of netand yellow satin daisy ribbon which gave a sparkling finish to the lustreless organdie As can be seen in the design the gored skirt which has a round bell sweep at the bottom is finished with a wide foot flounce of the organdie surmounted sur-mounted by a narrower one headed as well as edged with Uhe footing The waist is the low cut baby model with a full waved neck frill put on without heading thfs Is also edged with the footing and at the top line of the halfInch hem there is a single row of the ribbon The neck is filled in with a round I yoke made in alternate rows of the 4Z1 1 i4jcTiff l 4 ° r 1 j f DINNER DRESS footing and heading through which I passes the yeliow ribbon to tie in front under the low upstanding throat rufile in a loose bow The sleeves are the usual nightgown model generally liked for unlined dresses with a lightish elastic in the wrist facing to enable the wearer to shorten or lengthen them at will They are finished at the bottom with a drooping footing edged flounce out lined at the hem as is the neck one with a single row of the ribbon Worn with this brilliant little costume cos-tume was a slightly pointed belt with a back bow and long ends of canary yellow grenadine ribbon down the centre of which ran a satin band with a raised wheat ear figure THE SECOND CONFECTION The next toilet though perhaps not as elegant as the birdlike yellow was without doubt the most wearable of the four It can effectively made in any of > be crisp gauzy wash cottons muslin lawn or dimity The original of this model was composed of peach bloom pink figured dimity with trimmings trim-mings of nettop fancy lace and narrow nar-row pink satin ribbon The three tiny foot ruffles at the bottom of the wide gored skirt are headed as well as edged with narrow lace The neck and sleeve flounces are of the nettop lace six inches wide and with this costume a straight girdle of the peachbloom satin belting is worn Instead of silk the simple hemmed petticoat pet-ticoat and half low underwaist that went with it were made of unfigured dimity the color of the gown ALL GREEN AND BLACK A very dress up little frock indeed one would call the third figure Nile green silk mulle narrow black ribbon and French blonde lacenot the did fashibned blonde lace but a new netlike net-like web of silvery white with thick raised figures composed the costume from which It was taken Unlike the canaryyellow and peachbloom batiste tiste it Was worn over a lowcut slip of Nile green satin which satin by the way had once composed an evening dress and was now dg tly pieced in in > l7 > > H > < j numerable places Here too is another an-other bit of informatlon that may be of use to some woman whether in New York or New Orleans This costume cost exactly 2 for the making it was fashioned at home under the English Eng-lish belles supervision by a colored dressmaker who charged 1 a day for her services It is sufficiently elegant to be worn all winter as a dinner or home evening dress For its exact reproduction eight yards ot silk mull a yard wide fifteen yards of black ribbon half an inch wide and ten yards of the blonde lace in a fiveinch width would be necessary FOUND IN A CURIOSITY SHOP With the fourth dress it was noticed that a long chemiselike undergarment of white china silk was worn The gown itself was a low halffitting slip I of ivory white silk mull with half I length drooping sleeves and one simple I foot ruffle headed by a fantastic herringbone her-ringbone embroidery in white silk The deep neck and sleeve flounces were of French applique lace the long striped scarf which began at the huge bow at the bust crossed in the back and shaped the gown snugly at the waist was of an exquisite texture of loosely woven silk in stripes of marigold mari-gold yellow and white discolored by time to a faint coffee and milk tone NINA FITCH |