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Show K Tailored Suits of White AJpac& I By JEAN SEIVWRIGHT. (Drawlni br E. C. KELLY.) j r Copyright: 1B1C: By Tb CblcffO Tribune nd th New Tork G!ob0 EXTREME elegance characterizes the tailored alpacas that are so much in vogue for summer and early fall. White alpaca is generally chosen by the fashionable woman, although here and there one finds an attractive 5 model developed in gray, beige, dark blue, black, or in a I hairline weave. The accompanying illustration reveals three exceptlon- ally smart models that possess many interesting style fca-i fca-i tures. At the left is a smartly tailored suit of cream white ; alpaca. This is designed with a pleasing jacket in bolero 3 mode. The sleeves are short and finished with wide turned back cuffs modeled on the same graceful lines as the collar. h The skirt, moderately full, is topped with a deep basque ij about the sides and back a feature that seems to add some-J some-J what to the length of the jacket. Touches of silk cmbroid-j' cmbroid-j' ery and ivory mushroom buttons form charming decora-i decora-i tions for this interesting alpaca suit ;j With this costume a hat of blue velvet is worn, and the ?" narrowness of the brim is offset by the height of the crow j; and the profusion of gauze roses with which it is adorned. I A simple hat of black velvet crests the figure in the cen- ter of the page. As though to modify its rather wintry aspect, gray leghorn is combined with the velvet, while , silver and black silk pompoms prove delightful trimmings I for this becoming chapeau. 4 The suit is originated in a fine cream alpaca. To relieve I the severity of this all white material exquisite embroidery I in threads of gold elaborates the skirt and coat. On the I former this trimming is suggestive of a yoke, while the cuffs and oddly fashioned pockets are pleasingly orna- v mented in simple mode. The broad belt that encircles the waist is made of white patent leather, finished with an enamel en-amel buckle, while the dainty revers and jaunty collar are developed in white organdie. r. The third model is also evolved from white alpaca and II the arrowhead trimmings are of wool soutache, while white If. bead clasps prove interesting ornaments on the jacket.. A II: anh. of white ailnaced with- emerald jpeenlend8-A vivid i " k - dash of color to this noteworthy creation, and the sleeves with their disc-like cuffs that match the smartly tailored collar are attractive. The hat that accompanies this pleasing costume is made of emerald green horsehair cloth. Fashioned in a modified tarn style it achieves considerable height by the introduction of an aigrette of the same bright color. Although seaside resorts and mountain homes are still thronged by seekers after summer pleasures, fashion never hesitates in advancing her imperious decrees. The modes for fall are fast making their appearance and couturiers are now revealing the eras of dress which are being revived for the fashionable woman of today. One finds that the Empire modes are favored, and the interpretation of that period reveals re-veals many new possibilities, while the beauty of the fall fabrics is indeed wonderful. The vogue for silks promises to be phenomenal, and while these are characterized by great beauty, they are also rich in metal effects, gold and silver being lavishly used. Satin, and poult de soic prove admirable foundations for lame designs, although some of the most lovely are done on rich mousselines. It seems as though the influence of the orient will again pervade the modes, for many of the handsomest hand-somest silks are distinctly Chinese in design, while Japanese and other eastern motifs arc also shown. A gay melange of colors is another interesting feature of the new silks, sometimes some-times as many as twenty different colors being combined in a single pattern. Such richly picturesque silks are particularly suitable for the evening wrap that not infrequently is modeled along flowing oriental lines, or when the motifs are cut out and - ni my f hlaet oeIaet anJ s0 les' as0 are mucn liked. The simple, ordinary I J A horn w'ltfl pompoms of black ailk machine stitching can be made to give really j) Cj nd 'ilVer' SlUt f Cream lpaca' marvelous effects. IJ embroidery of gold threads belt of . I ?vvi l , . . . ... , , A notable and pretty gown is made with M ys white patent leather with enameled 1 J to 6QcW collar and revers of or' a ful1 &athered skirt and th a simPle I P gandle, u blouse that is finished with a sash passed J J , 1 from the front to the back, there crossed MH ' '. and brought to the front again to be tH knotted well down on the skirt The skirt is fin- ill combined with plain rich fabrics they form unusual but ef- -fective trimmings. While the coming modes naturally arouse much interest, there are many novel ideas for immediate adoption. Lacy veils that extend to the tip of the nose and reach the shoulders shoul-ders in the rear are ofttimcs worn with the new felt sailors that have usurped the place of the lingerie chapeau in the summer wardrobe, that will appeal to every discerning woman. Smocks styled like Russian blouses in delicate organdies are favored by young girls when playing tennis. Blouses for other occasions show many uncommon touches. One attractive model has a short, flaring pcplum, while puffed sleeves, ribbon trimmed cuffs, and quaint cape effects are new style touches. Linings and facings of lighter color are to be a feature. They are in every way attractive and they greatly relieve the monotony of the dark blue which seems so universally accepted for the street gowns under discussion. Paris, it is claimed, is using a great deal of gray, too. Let us hope that gray will be generally introduced on this side of the sea, but the advanced models, almost all of them, are shown in blue. An attractive gown that illustrates one of the kinds of trimming that is to be much used is made of the inevitable French serge, with a sailor collar and deep hanging pockets at the sides. The collar and the 'pockets are enriched with what at first glance appears to be fine braiding, but which is really machine stitching over a stamped design, the machine ma-chine throwing up a fine chain stitch of the silk. Every kind of stitchery is being used and chain stitching is largely large-ly employed for braiding designs, but rows of stitching V ished with a border formed by squares set a little more than their own breadth apart, and which are embroidered 'M with gray wool in simple over and over stitches, three rows of the stitching forming each square, and the ends .'R of the sash are similarly treated, while on the edge of the skirt stitched beneath the hem is a narrow wool fringe. Jersey cloth is promised with the coming of cool weather. The wool jersey cloth is handsome, it is practical, and it is admirably adapted to street gowns. An exceed-ingly exceed-ingly handsome model which has just been received is of ' black. It is not designed for immediate wear, nor even for iH the near future, for it is lavishly trimmed with fur, but it does make a suggestion for the use of the material, and it indicates how the gown idea is being pushed and ex-ploited. ex-ploited. There is a simple straight gathered skirt with a wide band of gray rabbit and a plain little blouse with a ; V shaped neck that is finished with a rolling collar of the lM fur and with deep cuffs. If the wool jersey cloth introduced for sports suits is utilized in such ways, it will indeed be a valuable addition to the list of available fabrics. jH For immediate wear we are having gowns made on sim-ilar sim-ilar lines of taffeta and of crepe. A pretty one of the latter material consists of a perfectly simple gathered blouse and a straight gathered skirt joined by a belt The belt consists of two rows of narrow embroidery with silver thread and there are six rows of this embroidery in a little wider width on the skirt, and three finishing each sleeve. It is a dainty and a summerlike gown. The neck, be it added, is cut slightly low with the oblong shaping that only the young should wear, but it is lovely when it can be worn becomingly. In this instance the finish is the little straight band embroidered that stands away from the neck in a most attractive manner. |