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Show UM.lM , pjJ Man lost his Job as lord of crca-.Jfccm crca-.Jfccm the day ho allowed his wiiv jgSfio up her hair In a knot n the Xvlth a h.-h '"'no comb. Man stood "jjl and looked at t h - Jo., and lost K heart and scepter all at once Woman has done a share of bossing J ever ! ' .. ' J- Poor r. ! i if I -!rs to be JHeharmed. He beholds a psy be i3 Knot and falls down and worah fgKhe next - ' : he sees a Gretchen H Jbrald and thinks there is nothing so JI Jovely 14 Vjiwear::.- h'- rr-r.i TMauald wearing a wire rat with the v1 jlreal hair combed over It In a poir.p-!Be.dour poir.p-!Be.dour bJ'Zt Bo It !. w.tb -ho m i '. the Brkey trot curl, the figure eight, (MRreek fashion hair dres Women 0t parch by with their tll the latest styles ami m!i bc-JCKtne bc-JCKtne their fi-' - f-- A.jThe business of fixing up th ha'." fJWfr not so important a ft n thou-Epd thou-Epd years ago as It i? now. Women -Bit ih. ul year or from Feneration to gener-1 gener-1 LBtJon. 'U hen Julius ' "a r r;. . 'lJ,Beau')ful with her hair done ); Kbint d Women row ' -r d . v part it'1' Akelr hair down in the middle and rsfcfVut it li. il- o-. ..-r t.-lr e.irs. The . $tiKext day they buy .ill the false hair K Chinese :-parc It as KfMfcr the President s daughter I I jBfvrried and s. i I million women typtKd th- way -.rr.n... .1 h- r I -T Brown of glory Is the most becom-i becom-i WLt Of all gBThe fluctuating styles In hair he-qatf.'fcn he-qatf.'fcn ago. Women of the ' (ta&icl( domed their heads with I1 Bonderiul effects but their a!yie9 pBnanged little. A little kn-'i, on Hie --fcck wi'S jn-.-ii :.i r '' u,iWllf. unl raided hair hanging down e shoulders was popular In an-I an-I 10 "IBlher i 'in', tsBJa r . - r Kmnn followed the instructions of f Ata in hair. I'i Klo to Edinburgh worn ' ocKtir fiair around their beada and Inf. Jfcvercd the braid with a wimp''1 it 'Then a woman tore off the wlnrr- d 0" JBrlds. The v.ou.-i. li. l 1 ' let h t t.Kautlful long braids hang dow n Hit fttr back or m (mot of her ahoul-a. ahoul-a. Bt was the tall: of the town ---Bt monks were uhoi-Ued and many .. rflWrned their eyes awy, pul moat :,Btfcan t'A ore .-i.rn.il l-al'v 1 1 her. sho not morC lj,''lUtlf jl " tmi the other.' ' Sar- thlut; 5 i r 1 K Kelghb-.r v. !. ' ! "r 1 IK her charm lav in her 1 I,lW!'HPl''s Br"j lh"lr bralda tm !'n t0inl"s " llM crusades naturally became more chivalrous than they ever had been. Woman ruled as of yore Some women did not have as long hair as others and In the competition competi-tion of the day they bought falso hair and started a trade which amounts to millions of dollars annually an-nually HEN FIRST DID UP HAH! IN BIG ll 1 I RES, It was in the days of the Eleventh Elev-enth Century that Paris cauio to the helm as the leaders of styles. It was not until the days of Louis XIV that she was recognized all over the civilized world, but even as early as the year of the Norman Conquest. Londoners looked to Paris for new inventions in stylo and new Inventions in fixing up the hair. In those good old days men were the big dressers. It was the men who first wore wigs and diamonds and silks. Women saw that by wearing rich apparel and doing up their hair In all wonderful ways imaginable they could outdo men and their efforts hav. been successful. success-ful. Man has been crowded out f tb- arena of dressing. He couldn't keep up with woman so the present pres-ent day man has to content himself him-self with somber colors and short hair. Man first learned the art of dressing, but woman learned It so well she beat her own teacher at the game. Girls of the Twentieth Contury who jump after the latest fashions do not have to undergo the rigors of the girls of other days. It was in the Colonial times that hair dressing reached its height Critics today decry the tendency of the times to wear falso hair and wIrs. Hut take a look at the seventeenth and eighteenth centuries. In the t'olonles and In Europe women of fashion would sometimes spend an entire day in n'xlng up their hair for some great ball or other festive occasion. When the day was done tin ;. would sit up all night in order not to muss the coiffure. It was only In the courts at the capitals that such extremes of fiiihlon were Indulged in. Tho colonials and the country girls saw- tho advantngo of lucking pretty and followed the example of their richer countryfolk. They did not necessarily look pretty, cither, but they were In fashion and that was the Important Import-ant point. Grotesque as they made themselves they attracted admirers und If It wasn't for Httracttnc admirers ad-mirers things would be pretty dull. In the days when the Stuarts and Georges ruled England was the time of the greatest extravagance In headdress Traffic In hair waB an Important Item. As American cities today boast of their steel mills, shoe factories and breweries. eo Paris would boast of her hair establishment Hair hlpmcnt3 often 1 rought up the balance of u-iOc uf course there was raucti false hair manufactured. But the sale of reil hair was carried on ex-tcnshely ex-tcnshely and there were houses which boasted of selling nothing but real hair Just as today there nrc houses which boat.t of thulr pure food. Krom fixing her hair In beautiful architectural designs over the head, woman began In the seventeenth rtntury to Imitate man and weir wigs To exhibit your own hair In those days was considered common com-mon and decfcledly out of date. What was the use of piling your own h"lr up In beautiful figures when you could buy a wig all Used up to suit. With the wig one could wear red har, black hair, yellow hair or gray hair. Queen Elizabeth loved yellow and rod hair, so her wise were of that color. Her ladles In court followed her example and during her reign there was nothing so beautiful as a jcllow. golden or red wig Poor Klrls unable to buy wigs, whoso hair was black, mourned In grief In London Lon-don and cursed tho gods who h id doomed them to days of black hair. Their curses aroused the cupidity of pventle men. and hair dyes came Into vogue, ix. emus 1I Mil HTdiS IN THE WIG. In tho latter part of the seventeenth seven-teenth century doctors spread the Information through Wfitarn Ku-ropu Ku-ropu that wigs were spreading the plague. When multitudes had died Of plague. It was pointed out thai death lurked In the wig and for a sh-.rt time wig were cast aside. But It was only (or a short time. Women wero then as they ever were. What matters It If they do get the plague, wigs are in fashion Wear i he w igs. Today doctors cry against tho use of falso hair on the head. "It U making women bald." the doctors doc-tors say. But what of It. Women must bB In fashion. So. after tho plague had begun to diminish and the hospitals were beginning to be largo enough to take care of the 111, wigs came back in greater profusion pro-fusion tha never before, Loose curls were displayed on the forehead) and were called fayorltea. Heart breaker were loog locks hanging down over tho face. Curls close to the oheckr wr , . Il.d .mi-fldents. .mi-fldents. These w re worn exteneive-l exteneive-l in the da) folJowlDfi Hie plague, -Bod t M. J. Clfcke'f Cotum Studio br Clint Murpbr. Jr. The art of curling hair reached its greatest height at that time. Curling Curl-ing Irons and curl pipers had been used before, but they were not used extensively. Curls became popular becauae a queen In Paris had them. Her court ladles didn't ha them eo they made them. Over In London they heard about It und made them, tuo. Merchants from upper English i vented. Women tied their ringlets with ribbon and dressed It over a wire frame. Lady Newcastle wae the rirft in that period to wear her hair over her ears and comb It down smoothly, smooth-ly, and do It up In a knot on the tack of her head. When she appeared ap-peared In court with her hair done that way In 1667 eho was th oen- satlon of the day Other women at first laughed. She looked funny But then men began to admire her. Wherever she moved with her smoothly combed hair she was fol-lowed fol-lowed by a lot of obedient servants. That settled it. Other womcn'a curls were laid away just for the time and the hair was combed over the cars, H Fifty yearn later women forgot about fixing the hair. All tho efforts were epent on the skirts. Great hoop fklrts with enormous bustles wero H tho thing at court. Many times the hoops and bustles went away, but they came back Just as often. Following the Introduction of tha huge hoops came tho high wigs. Hair was piled up to any height. iH The higher the better The real hair was combed down to the head and the false hnlr was put on top of It. Women went to the hair dresser as iH men go to the barbers today. The S hair dressing business waa a profit- able one. Women were unable to f.x the enormous head effects them- elves. It took an artist to do it- There were not enough hair dressers H to do the business at times of great festivities, eo women had to have their hair done long before the event. In order to be fit to be seen at the B great function. B In order to allow the women to B rest with their hair done up they B were provided with reclining chairs B so they could sleep sitting up. They B also waxed their hair 90 It would B reialn Its arrangement when the vie- B tlm lay down to rest. mt But If the women of that time B dressed up. you should have seen the men. In silks and knee breeches. v. II h powdered wlps and brilliant 9 waistcoats and coats, they made a brilliant appearance at a ball. Par- B Bfl llament In those days was an as- BJ rtcmblage of butterflies. The Contl- HJ nental Congress was a thing of HJ THE CTRL AN M- H PORTA NT TEXTURE, H It took women a long time to catch up with the mcn'ln dressing H , One thing that has remained with VM women through all the changes In fjw hair dressing is the curl Sometimes H- I the curt was displayed from the middle of the part and was used to 19 decorate the forehead. In the days M of Gcorse HI of Encland and Mar- tha Washington of Virginia, curia S dentTlod over the ears and one lone Hi curl descended from the middle of US tho back of the neck. H B The curl has caused poets to write tl and muelClana to rave No mutter ui from whence It rises It Is beautiful 19 and lovely, according to the poets, M and the poets ouRht to know, for H many of them have been driven to P JH poetry by examining too many curls, H I When women seek fashion, com- BCJ H fort Is a secondary Issue. A thou- IB Bfl eand years ago comfort was one of i'i the Important Items In dress. In the 13 year 1100 the Duahess of Seine D learned she could change the con- H tour of her body by l u lng and so H we have the corset. Lacing had not H been Indulged in for a thousand a yeaTS, but the Duchess of Seine did kU Isssi not care Men fought against lacing M , ns Immoral and of the devil Monks drew pictures of the devil In corsets. IM but the devll'6 mode of dress stead- U 1 lly gained In popularity. Not be- M J cause of comfort; Just because worn- H an had to be In style In hair dress- M Ing woman has sacrificed comfort B for style every time 1J I Although women wore her hair Hn I In bra(ds and wore wigs to some ex- H B tent prior to the discovery of Amer- Br lea, it was not until about that time B HH that they uncovered their heads to S any jcreat extent. Their head cover K had been a sort of hood fitting to the head and hanging down over the houlderft Then the PTt hanging I over tho shoulders was cut off and if tho ears and lower part of the hair f was exposed. At last the whole H thing was thrown away. I That was at a period when dla- i I monds from India and Jewels from j America were being imported. Women of wealth and men. too, w ore diamonds and other Jewels ga- Ml lore. Jewels were banded In the hair In all tho; most beautiful ar- m ranpeniejiU 1 BJ The Spaniards Invented the neck jjlfl ruff and Introduced It to the rest of ;Si i;urope. Men wore them first and ri'l women saw they were at least re- markable. and wore them, too. Tha ijjffi bigger Ihe ruff the more wonderful n&jj and charming the maid, so ruffs in- 39 creased In size to such an extent jfcjjj that Indies and gentlemen Interfered BM with each other as they walked. alj Various devices for making the PS ruffs stand out stiff were used. Long ik. J pointed wires first were common. Then a smart Hollander Introduced r. starch and, although starch has 9H been th cause of many dlscomforta. fgg women liave never abandoned Its use. The ruff lasted all through the reign of Queen Elizabeth. When the jp Stuarts ruled In Ensland women cast S; off the ruffs and for the first time startled the world by appearing with yjj their shoulders and necks bare Ttis HjF PurLsIans Invented the fashion. Lon- SKn don was not slow to take it up. for after all a ruff was not nearly so Kg beautiful as the natural neck and Mg shoulders, particularly If the neck and shoulders wero well rounded pC"' and full of dimples. sssfl i "BSSSSSklH - LJB |