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Show f PORT ARTHUR IS SEEN BY HADLEY 1 OGDEN TRAVELER DESCRIBES THE SCENES OF THE TERRIBLE BATTLES BETWEEN RUSSIANS AND JAPANESE SOME ESTIMATE ESTI-MATE THE NUMBER OF JAPANESE SOLDIERS LOST IN THE AT- TACK ON THE DEFENSES OF PORT ARTHUR AT 100,000 HOW ( THE BATTLESHIPS IN THE HARBOR WERE DESTROYED DAL-f DAL-f NY A BEAUTIFUL MODERN CITY nvicu-u BY A W. HADLEY. If one has derided to enter China i from the northern port of Taku, af- ter visiting Japan nnd Korea he Is strongly recommended to select a ship I which will touch fit Dalny, the eea-i eea-i I port terminus of the South Manchur-.i Manchur-.i It too railway, for the purpose of passing a few days at Port Arthur, the famous battleground of the Russo-Ja panose jf wsr. Dslny. called by the Japanese Dalr en, 19 an interesting city of 80,000 pco-I pco-I it pie, several places of amueement, un 1 1 jlralld health conditions and an ex I cellent hsrbor Victoria Buy on the southern shore of which Dalny is slt- uaied, Is known as an ice-free port U and It was here in 180 that the Eng-I Eng-I f lisb warships assembled In their oper-"' oper-"' f Stlons against China Little of moment transpired in the locality until 1S9R, when Russia, seek-m seek-m I af a seaport terminus for her reat I Siberian railroad, selected Dalnv us ,i Fultable point and negotiated with Hp-fel Hp-fel Chinese goernment for a long leas. I of a section which also embraced Port I Arthur They Immediately 6pt about 'building a model town, securing Eu-I Eu-I ropean experts for that purpose and 'laying out in-- street in the most approved ap-proved style of modern city-making, f After determining where perfect drainage could hp obtained, a great j central plaza was laid out. with the i principal streets radiating from it like the spokes of a wheel. The same plan has been uBed In beautifying Paris Par-is and, while the absence of rectangu lar blockB and stralght-away cross streets are at first confusing, the advantages ad-vantages of the plan are at once apparent ap-parent At varjing distances from the central cen-tral plaza are Binaller ones, each with Its diverging avenues and croys streets, ull of which lend readily to an artistic parking sjstem and a general gen-eral beautifying of the place Russian architecture Is common throughout the city and. since the occupation by the Japanese many improvements have been carried out, all of which harmonize with the original scheme An excellent street car system la in operation, a distinct feature of which 4 Is the Issuance of time tickets For two rents and a half one buys a first class ticket good for continuous or In corrupted use for a period of half an hour For a cent and a quarter more a ticket Is given for one hour. Second-class cars attached behind those of the first class have good aecomnio datlons but less upholstering, and cost about half as much Beautiful City. The biggest undertaking in building the city was excavating an enormous cut through rising ground by which the railroads might be brought on a level grade straight through the cit to the landing docks of the harbor This huge cut Is nearly 1,000 feet wide and fullv fiO feet deep and Is usu ally mistaken by strangers for a river bed as a magnificent arched bridge spans It connecting the business part of the city with the higher residence . districts. About half a mile from the midwa between the latter and the Chinese quarter, is an amusement re I sort of considerable pretention Scores of amusements such pb merry i go rounds, wheels slider, scenic railways, rail-ways, skating rinks, picture shows, botanical and lobloglcal gardens, are located on the picturesque slopes of a hill and are dally thronged with visitors. visi-tors. In fact, it Is most ashonishin? i to find a city of this general excellence excel-lence and up-to dateness located In mkIi an out-of-the-way place A two hours' rde from Dalny over a fine railroad hridge brings one to famous Port Arthur, passing on the ! way many points of interest, especial ly those connected with the Russo-Japanese Russo-Japanese war and the memorable ! siege of the port. At varied inter als for many miles the hills and val- leys still show th? grass grown trenches trench-es dug by the invadlnc Japanese arm., as it slowly advanced toward positions posi-tions commanding the doomed clt;. As the train describes an Immense curve southward toward the central pass. Kuropatkln fort, celebrated 'or Its heroic defense and bloody capture, can be seen crowning a high hill to the right. Immediately following, and much nearer the railway, Is another ruined redoubt which guarded one uf the principal water supplies of the Russian forc es On the left one looks uo at the frowning battlements of Erlung-Shan fort and then across the depression to the right to Stoessel forts T' and 2," relobrated "203 meter bill." rising ris-ing as n low mountain peak in the distant bac kground. Then comes sev oral Russian redoubts nearer the rail road and various groups of fortifications fortifica-tions in the distance, tho hi Russian monument, towering Monument Hill on the left and finally the railroad station of Port Arthur The city Is In two parts, old and nes. separated by a portion of tho harbor and two or three miles of straggling houses. The new town comprises various government build ings, municipal department offices and a considerable number of modern dwellings, but It. is In the old town that Interest centers and also where the visitor passes the greater part of his time Traces of the War. Ever where, as one traverses the narrow winding streets, are to be seen traces of the Russian occupation occupa-tion and the terrible siege which the inhabitants sustained for nearly a year Here an abandoned house stands with a hole in the outer wall through which a team and vaj;on could be driven, next may be the crumbling ruins of a dwelling absolutely abso-lutely demolished, while adjoining ma be a shop or empty hotel building build-ing with Its walls shattered with cannon shot, i t b roof charred from a bursting shell or the wooden casings cas-ings splintered and torn awa. One can hardly picture the scenes which were enacted In these houses during the siege, wounded soldiers beln borne in for operations or treatment by tho surgeons, women and children seeking points of safety and apprehensive appre-hensive shop keepers and tradesmen lamenting their lot and expecting at any moment the bursting of a shell overhead which might destro them Passing clown to the inner basin of the harbor, one sees the docks and buos to which were moored the ships of the Russian fleet Time and again these battleships, cruisers and torpedo boats crept from the harbor to the outer entrance in a vain attempt to do honor to the tsars commands, but a demonstration by the blockading Japanese fleet would send them scuttling scut-tling back to safety within the basin The topograph of the immediate surroundings of the harbor must be understood before one enn realize (imposition (im-position in which 'he Russian fleel was placed The city is hidden from the outer sea by a mountain or saddle sad-dle of high hills and the oasln can only he approached by a narrow entrance en-trance w hich winds In from tne ocean There hills were strongl Fortified, thus keeping the Japanese ships a: a respectful distance outside and pre-1 pre-1 venting them from entering the hir-bor hir-bor to engre the Russian warships The Japanese made several night attacks at-tacks and two ineffectual attempts to bottle up the mouth of the harbor by sinking colliers across the chan-( chan-( nel as Hobson tried to do at Santi-, Santi-, ago. but the ships ran aground in the wrong place or were swung out of positon by the tide In nearly every ev-ery Instance, the volunteer navigators naviga-tors having miraculous escapes from death in the storm of shells which were poured down upon them from the torts above. Of course the Japanese battleships could hurl their big shells over the mountain in a haphazard way, but I the amount of damage which they i could hope to do on the Russian ves-I ves-I sels would hardly compensaxe for the enormous i-xpense involved In such : a bnmhanlnvnl These conditions resulted In a close guarding of the harbor entrance aim la gradual surrounding of iie entire j district from the land side ny the I Invading army. All the objective j points and commanding positons wer Strong fortified by the Russians and I It was In the capture of these that such tremendous slaughter took place on both sides. The rugged slopes of ihese hills and mountains are scarred nnd furrowed fur-rowed by cannon shot ns If curried 1 with a giant's comb while running crosswise of these hideous marks are the trenches and breastworks of the ' contending forces Some of these I grass grown ditches are deep and regular, reg-ular, showing that they were constructed con-structed at leisure; others, bOWever ;ire pitiful little hollows in the rocky I subsoil where a beleaguered regi- ment. moving slowh up the slope. ' stopped to hastltly scoop up a slight protection during the night behind which the might do and die the following fol-lowing day When one pictures to himself the appalling carnage which took place In these entrenchments the thousands who dally succumbed to the shell fire and bayonet charges of the besiegers what of the myriads that were hurled hurl-ed against them? It was here that the Japanese commanders sacrificed their men. not b scores or Indlvldu-I Indlvldu-I uls, but by hundreds and even thou- sand9 In single charges Company alter company and frequently regiments regi-ments were ordered up these apparently appar-ently impregnable slopes In the face of certain death. It was useless to emplo their muskets against the entrenched en-trenched Russlaus and only by hand to hand conflict with bayonet and ritle butt were hundreds of these trenches taken Survivors tell that they could walk from one point to another and touch a bod) at every step while within the breastworks the dead und wounded lay In unrecognizable unrec-ognizable heaps of torn uniforms and lacerated flesh Japs Captured a Hill After several months or slow advancement ad-vancement the Japanese captured a hill which commanded a view of the harbor from the Inside and It was then possible to note the effect of shells thrown over the mountain by the ships outside and ultimately to furnish the gunners with the desired range for bombarding the Russian fleet. : Adjaceni to the old town and separating sepa-rating the latter from the railroad ) station Is a conical mountain of con-eideruble con-eideruble height which has been nam-ed nam-ed Monument bill and on which there I has been erected a pretentious monu-I monu-I ment 200 feet high In honor of the 5 Japanese heroes who fell In the great 'conflict. On the granite slab surmounting sur-mounting the door of the mausoleum mausole-um Is an Inscription in Japanese penned by the fumouB warrior General Gen-eral Nogl himself the Import of Ahich Is that within lie the remains .if '21.M8ji" brave soldiers This Is ' rom the official report, but por-ions por-ions In position to know the facts f do not hesitate to assert that four tunes that number possibly 100,000 men gave up their lives. Not far distant from Monument Hill is an excellent war museum where one C!in revel for several hours la battle trophies and relics of modern mod-ern warfare Not only are there -cores of exhiliiis gathered from the haltlefleldB of the war, givch as can non, selge guns rfleg swords, gun carriages. ammunition exploded! shells, punctured armor plate, photo-1 graphs, plans etc, but there have julso been erected models of wire entanglements, en-tanglements, pit-talis, ahbattls of sharpened tree trunks. "trou de loups," "ehovaux-de-frlsc," entrenchments en-trenchments and many other specimens speci-mens of articles of war. Port Arthur still harbors a con-i.l-erablo number of Inhabitants who conducted business ventures during the war and who have varying talcs' to tell regarding the same. It is generally gen-erally conceded that Japan began fighting four days before her formal declaration of war and that It was not until Russia had lost several war ships and a thousand men that she fully realized Hint she was engaged In a deadly conflict Japan's Preparations for War. Russia's mobilization of troops In Manchuria and the dispatch of tho Baltic squadron for tho far east wasi probably IntenJed for a show of strength which would overawe thej lapancse and deter them In Insisting on their demands from Russia. Tho latter country was also undoubtedly; unaware of the real strength o? Japan Ja-pan and the T'let preparations which had been made tor war on a modern ! basis rollowlng nenrh a year of unsatisfactory unsatis-factory negotiations with Russia re-carding re-carding affaire In Manchuria Paron Komura, representing Japan at the; Petersburg court, conveyed the Intelligence Intel-ligence to the Russian government that his country had decided to take Independent action for the piotectlon of Its rights and that he would withdraw with-draw from Russian territory on the tenth of Felruar. This was on February f,, Hint, and was practical Intimation on the part of Japan that peaceful negotiations were at an end That same night things began to transpire at the seat of trouble. The I'nlted Japanese squadron under Vice-Admiral Togo j bore down on a Russian merchant vessel In Korean waters and captured her On tho seventh the Japanese warships reconnoitei ed around Port rihnr and on the following night suddenly swooped down on the Russian Rus-sian flotilla and sank two battleships and an armored cruiser. Simultaneous!) a detached squadron of the Japanese fleet surrounded some Russian warships off the port of Chemulpu, Korea, and menacing them with Instant destruction should they fire a shot, cooly proceeded lo land a large detachment of tioops for the occupation of Korea. A second attack was made on Port Arthur, Feb 8, and the next day Admiral Ad-miral Alezleff made a formal report to the tzar stating that eight of his ! battleships and two torpedo boats had been sunk or put o' t of commission j and that he was involved In some-I some-I thing that much resembled war Russians Slow to Move From the mass of conflicting edi-' edi-' dence it is evident that the Russian ! government tcok the matter under advisement and referred It to the Ja-i Ja-i panese with a view of asccrtainln: what they were about. The latter deliberated de-liberated on the subject. Flipped Into the entrance of Port Arthur hay and I torpedoed two more warships, and ! finally, on Fcbuary 1, reluctantly admitted ad-mitted by the Grace of Heaven, Emperor of Japan,, seated on the throne occupied by the same dynast) from time Immemorial" that thej were at war and so declared It in a lengthv proclamation to ai loyal Japanese. Russia, "by the Grace of God, we. Nicholas II. Kmperor and autocrat of all the RussiaB, etc," then retaliated with a similar proclamation and the war was "officially ' under way. Stories of the conflict are still told and listened to with Interest In "The Far East." The Brusslana fought 1 raveiy at times, especially the onnger regiments who labored un der the misapprehension mat me; were fighting a parcel of heathens! who would fla) them alive or burn' them at the stake If I aptured. Tnou-1 sand6 thus fought In desperation to escape what they believed would be a worse fate and great was the surprise sur-prise of wounded or captured survivors surviv-ors when they found themselves treated as human belnk- Ii Is general!) conceded that tho Jajanese fought a humane war, observed ob-served modern military -thics with I extreme care, were exceptionally kind to prisoners, and pursued their cause j I With a valor ami fortitude w hich was almost fanatical. Their sanltar pre-j pre-j cautions were I leal and more ifoc-jtually ifoc-jtually carried out than In any war In his'.'iry. Fana'.kii Fighters The enlisted in the cause w:th unbounded enthusiasm, many signing the Hats with pens dipped In their own blood. Thousands of them do- parted for the front determined to I die in action. Many bad tbeir graveel and tombstones prepared before b a - i lng, It ig asserted, and the letters', which returned to parents, wives and sweethearts declaring it would be the last farewell, were without number. It mlnht be well to Insert here a few facts in connection with the suicide sui-cide of Nogl the fTeat Japanese general gen-eral and hero of the war. This tragic incident occurred In September, 1912, at the Instant that the cannon was fired In Toklo as a signal to start the funeral cortege of the late emperor Committed Hara-kiri. The old warrior and his devoted wife were found dead In their apartments apart-ments a few minutes after tho deed was committed ami reports w . r. s-n' broadcast over the world to the effect ef-fect that Nogl had stabbed himself In I tho neck with a short sword while his aged wife had ommitted hara-kiri hara-kiri or diBemboweimcnt with a dagger, dag-ger, the motive being given as a determination de-termination to thus demonstrate their devotion to the deceased ruler. As regards Nogl's method of doing away with himself, the published reports re-ports were unquestionably In error, for to have failed to carry out tin-sacred tin-sacred custom of hara-kiri would have been considered by all Japanese the deepest disgrace. The principal question, however, was whether Mrs. Nogl contemplated contemplat-ed suicide with her husband's knowledge knowl-edge and evidence coming direct from I tin- Imtc a etl household would tend to disprove the theory of a double suicide having been planned From certain authentic sources 11 ll now related that as the hour ip-preached ip-preached ior Nogl's contemplated art he dressed himself in full uniform aud summoned his wife for a last , farewell Realizing that the final moment mo-ment bad arrived and unable to benr with fortitude the thought of se l-ration l-ration the wife suddenly drew a dag gr from her clothing and blunged It Into her own throat. As she fell to the floor she uttered ut-tered a try which was beard b on of the maids and the latter hurried, into the apartment. Nogl had onl time enough to conceal himself be-I hind a screen when the girl entered and seeing her mistress on the tlooi in a dying condition ran rrom the house screaming for help. It Is believed that Nogl then ascertained as-certained that his wife bad breathed ncr last opened his clothing. and kneeling In the traditional posture lo be assumed In hara-kiri, plung.-d bis favorite ..word blade Into bis abdo men He died instantly tor the maid rrturnod a few minutes afterwards with other members of the household house-hold and found two corpses where she had left but on When Nogl's will was read additional addition-al weight was given to the story by the fact that Mrs. Nogl was mentioned men-tioned as the chief beneficiary and executrix of the estate. Nogl was an old mun. he had never recovered from grief at losing bis two brillian1 sons in battles which he personally directed toward the close of the war; und It Is reasonable to conclude that brooding over his own loneliness together to-gether with the sudden death of bis beloved emperor resulted In a ruor-bid ruor-bid desire to seek an honored death by "Beppuku" or hara-klrl |