Show r y Designers Are Seeking Quilted Quilted I Skirts Worn by Artesian Peasants i HE lIE latest novelty are the wear TIlE T wear sports coats blouse-coats made from the peasants skIrts ofa of a hundred years ers ago These hale ha been made for the mountain and seaside resorts of Europe e Jeanne Lanvin has hils or ordered cr d a rumber for her shops n ii bot both Deau- Deau ville ulle Ille and Biarritz lot C Soeurs and Paul alo alo- alo tl r ti Lam Lamm and Dora are fas- fas fascinating fas- 5 v dilating their thelt Parisian nd can enn clients tents Ith these charming old converted concerted skirts l To begin ith with the skirts must be searched for as this style stile st Ie of peas peas- peasant peasant peasant 1 ant costume is no longer current in France During the time of the First Empire and even en pre pre IOUS sous to that he women in III the section around Aries Arles wore ore the picturesque skIrts that have hate ha e now slow caught the fancy of the modern mondaine The costume ofa of a hundred bundled years ago consisted of a brightly flowered s s 0 t d da a 4 c r 4 1 N l 1 h v vi vi vi i i i JJ 1 n I I skirt made from a cotton print made exactly like the old fashIOned old hand quilted calico bedcover Yellow ow Most Sought in These Old time Skirts THIS THIS skirt is naturally stiff and rather clumsy and in its original original original inal form about two yard yards a nil wide Ide per per- perfectly perfectly per perfectly straight cut ut and aran ara n into the waistline b by mea means is ofa of a tape or cord threaded threaded through a turn turn- turnover turnover turnover over hem at the top The fhe hem at atthe atthe atthe the bottom of the skirt is sometImes quilted ll in m t tent twenty ent to t twenty flee fh ent-fh e rows of cording to stiffen the edge thus giving somewhat some the effect of a crin crinoline oline facing The remainder of the skIrt is quilted hand-quilted all over in small squares on bias lines Often the re- re reverse re reverse verse erse side is a quaint patterned calico The patterns vary in m style stile and colorIng There are arc no t two 0 alike ahke 1 The he old skirts have been gathered throughout the section of Arles ArIes Nimes A A Avignon Ignon and their environs Many of them had been kept as heirlooms b by the families from whom hom they were ere purchased During During the height of this ancient fashIon the prints were ere made at Toulouse from hand caned blocks brought from the East Indies b by the French At the sama same time there thereas was as a big for similar prints m in England And it is from East Indian blocks that Liberty of Lon London don has made ma y of his renowned prints on silk silk The peasant woman qUIlted her calico skirt because she shedId shedid shedid dId all her 0 own n laundry work and that of other citizens of her time on the banks of the little streams that abound everywhere e crY here in m that section These Thesa old skirts come in white grounds printed in m over all-over floral and foliage designs in colors van vari called re Those on green grounds are arc called moisson or har har- harest harlest hardest lest est There are al- al alo alto o led back back- backgrounds backgrounds backgrounds grounds and some in navy blue called or s sweep chimney eel The rarest nie in m yellow ellow As this IS the color that in France is em- em emblematic emblematic em emblematic of marital jealousy it was obvIOusly hot then popular but but m in into days days to-day's revival re of this fashion yellow yel- yel yellow yel yellow low is the color most sought Some of the patterns on white J grounds are being dyed yellow yellow but these have hale not the charm charm and soft soft- softness n ness ss of the real old yellow prints Our might be most successful in m finding old fashIOned old quilted skirts in our 0 own n country Y as thIs style once here Many of the skirts however were of silk ThIs mode of quilted silk is one OM which pre all prevailed d dhen when hen gowns were made It with amts It the visible petticoat or ordress ordress ordress dress skirt t which was called a pet pet- petticoat petticoat petticoat and in m tie t ie days days when hand hand- handwork handwork handwork work was never spared Quilted Skirts Once the Mode in the Colonies IN TN TILE THE Colonies Colomes these quilted ts were first heard of about 1720 The fashion lasted long till 1795 or later Even earlier than I 1700 some quilting had been used on garments A sewing woman oman in 1730 or there there- thereabouts thereabouts thereabouts it is recorded was paid t two 0 pounds five shillings for quilting and others customarily received fifteen fifteen fifteen teen or twenty shillings for each a petticoat a negligible sum day to-day to for such work ork The best of these quilted petti petti- petticoats petti- petti petticoats petticoats coats were of silk and satin and en- en entIre entire en entire tire gO gowns gOns ns also were ere made of the work ork One in m about 1725 of yellow satin hada had a white satin undergo n each worked in elaborate designs r r c z i iI i I I L f v P i a kr Y i Jars 1 1 ad JI Motor coal of all o over all er embroidered suede The embroidery in bonna stitch IS moil mall effective s most pO popular ular motor hat u made macle of grosgrain ribbon and plaid alpaca Hob Hats from Alex Ilex one of the leading lea cling milliners in Paris I It t is developed of straw with a mush mush roam roam- room brim of taffeta which harmonized and distinctly Japanese in effect This pattern was very ery close or full and entirely with with- without without Ith- Ith out spaces The dress itself was cut low at the neck neck turn-back turn flat collar and tight full fun length sleeves with plain plaID turn-back turn cuffs In the eighteenth century women applied themselves wholly holly to fine needle needlework rk with th the tho idea that It should satisfy their entire aspirations aspirations aspirations They seemed to have been by the fine stItching which might to-day to daunt the best of sewers sewers Even hoods and night night- nightcaps nightcaps nightcaps caps were quilted Such work was as sometimes done wIth a lining of heavy linen and a white cord was aas as inserted between outer and inner mner pieces of linen which is described as a cord stuffing Leaf and vine patterns and inter inter- interlacing interlacing lacing ribbons seem to have been vastly liked and were often drawn as asell well ell as stitched by the worker Some of hese these petticoats had flat trImmings silver lace gold and silk thread cord applied orrice and gal gal- gal loons or the silk was fringed and the they were tufted with It it A quaint letter of the period says I am told las is on petticoats Three fringes is much used but they are not set on the thc tho strait but m in waves At the English court at that time gowns were ere sometimes quilted with pearls up to the top Calico Coats Lined With Tinted Organdies ALL LL quitted quilted qu ted petticoats were in cir cir- circumference circumference cir circumference three to four tour yards round about Immense embroidered pockets were placed on these skirts and worn om in pairs at the sides aides showing ony only when the dress was looped up he he art of making clothes is show show- showing showing showing ing continuously the most marvel marvel- marvel oua otis oS developments One must have havethe havethe the mind of a genius to see such remarkable possibilities in an old old- old fashioned fashioned quilted skirt Costumes for summer afternoons consist of an organdie frock accompanied accompanied accompanied by a calico coat cot lined with organdie to match the dress Frequently Fre Fre- Frequently Frequently such costumes are com com- completed completed completed by a hat of organdie and chintz These are of the small cloche shape and in no wise savor ot of the wide-brimmed wide garden type of hat of other seasons They have been cleverly cleverly termed poorhouse hats because they are so very plain and made of comparatively inexpensive inexpensive inexpensive sive materials |