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Show fATEST PARIS FASHIONS , liN(ftM liff!felSif1 I fTHEATRE Gowns of Satin, Silk and Voile a Jgjp -WrV '"' H H - : -j ';.-..;' sglg .ft i: ij ftvXi-vvife H Nattier. Blue Silk Voile Gown J-ri-:'.,! sT'la ? ; if "'tf-'"'1 fe'tfl Hf Photo CopjricM, 1011, by ReotUnger '.?. '" $ 51 ffS fo i ni :-J&'- V,,' &&&? H ExclwUe CoDirisht, 19U, Nck York Htrald 1 r' ' . $35 $3 SC P! f ' '..' "?,' " -WKSC;-''-' M BY MRS. A. T. ASHMORE. 1 H " H ""HE theatre ami re,taiirnnrgown H I' one and tlic-saim.- hnssuddenlyi H I become of almost paramount im- H pprtnucd")ii the fdslfiounblc ward- H ' robe, and tho woman who mukes M a point of attending all the new plays and M incidentally enjoys dining Inflpublic' Is' M forced to. bostow.asbit of tirac'npon these H same gowns. M ' The wearing of the low sown nt tho H thentn; has become almost" tin ivcirnl, and, H while there i no law enforcing it. the un- H written law which . compels women to drew in what Hiinin Iwi si (yiid tierces is! H the Intost style exercises a most far rpach-j f ins; influence. There isjiinWhat in prac- H tical in this Karoo decree of fnyhjoit. i H I To begin with, the waist culfllow' nt the H ,ncck is much cooler and ujrtySoruforta- H hie; then nothing in WoajSuhcavyn gown H of velvet, or' indeed anyMlnterlilOniore H I than to wear it at the ihcntre, wli?n it g pets so cruchod in. thodiiniUid Hpnec nl- H lowed for eacli individnaL It niahes pos- H eihle the wearing of the most inaxpensive H town, provided that the watt is effective H nnd becoming, and an old wnist can with- x Jmm illii l: 'Hi' fiizW'J Gray Silk Gown with Silver Embroidered Trimming '"' , ; , Malson 'Ney ' . , Pboto Copyright, 1011, by Rcutllhgcr v . Exclushe Copyrlgbt, 1011, New York Ucrald out treat trouble or expense be converted into oue nio.st effective -for , the theatre, 'rhiii applies only to what itf worn at the thenire. for there is no pla'ce where all -tlio details of ii cpstninc show more dfjtinctly than at a rcstaunint. There is a moat-extraordinary .change In the appearance of all . rcfitaurants iiqw fpom even five years ago. Low gowns are fashionable aud the majority of women do not wear lints. If hats are worjn they arc cither of enormous sizc'alnl'oC the uioxt costly description or arc :5Uial"l, 'eccentric, 'ec-centric, but very smart, on the hend'dres oiler, and incidentally very .'expensive nlfio. , At first gla lice, there .'is not. any marked . difforonce- hotwoen' the ' tjiontre nnd tholmll gown, but n dowfr inspection Spring Suggestions for Smart Street Costumes STRKBT gowns nro tho first to demand de-mand attention in the spring, and just n I what i- beet to buy If. not always Hj easy o iletermiiif- l"n fortunately-, in H Bpitn of the Weather Bureau and the wbc, Ttui Cloth Cotas9. H I ; ;r 1 H predictions of almanacK, thn can be no H j luitivpy reliable iufnrnintinn that will H I hMp solve the prnblctu of W"l?tlii:r 4 H uacdiuin or light weight matcrinr;hall bo H .Kelectcd, m ortpn doo winter ci linger, Hj aly. to chaugc wlthiu tweutj-four hours to cmi-Jropieal heat, when even a light weight cloth costume is quite impossible, and this fame temperature will continue until the Mimmer season is firmly established. estab-lished. Again will come a Fenm when furs will not U uncomfortable and .when spring goiviiK of anything but heavy ma-erbJ ma-erbJ will he equally impossible. : Late Winter Suits. Prudent arid rightly known as truly Qconomical women contend the purchase if a medium weight streot costume Into in the winter is essential. They look askance ai' ; the light Weight and light colored gowns that on a typical spring day. are i-o ' fascinatingly attractive, knowing, that oiVa bleak, cold day the same gowu will be hideously nuly and unliecoiniug. An nil Witol material of medinni or really lijjht weight can he worn in quite cold weather )f a thin knitted sweater or sacquc bo worn tindenicnth, but this will not hi necessary, often. Tlie plainer models of skirt and coat aro tho bst to chooa for the spring xtreet costume, as this will be used later for travelling and always for-some practical purpolc. Silk, hjitlq or voilo are better adopted to'thulnoro elaborate styles, and thiKyonr thprc Is a satiii finUh extromely light weight cloth that will bclncludod In tlie latter catr-gorj. . - JnckctH aro to 1m much Hhorter, and already al-ready tlio return of the bolero and Eton jacket Jut's been moro tlian Indicnted in many of the ncwe-t iiuxlcbi. In the svcry-day svcry-day first prlng gown the short or rathor tiKxlium ntrnight coat is tho best, more In keeping: with -the straight plain hklrt. Wltli the more elaborate aklrU the shorter, more fanciful cont is the more appropriate. appro-priate. Straight line for coat and skirt arc to U.-jlJoJ Cloth Coxlan. be the rule, nnd, while the achieving of just tho right efreet is ditHcult at llri, the fashion In not nn iniposible one to copy if It I realised tbnl tiiu finish. nuut Imj perfect and that there must be sutllcicnt width arm. the Mbnulden to giw this 6traJsht loose apiearauc that is required. ijHrVStv" ""'" ' SV '? Gray Silk Voile Gown with Silver Embroidery i U-y CI, BfiCg'V 'Sr Jcs5 ViMvA&p Photo Copyright, 1011, by JRentUnper t' S? & Pink Silk Gown with Silver Embroidered Tunic fh Q Eusirc Oopyrlsht. 10U. New York OeraM j! g "Ib 'V Photo Copyrlcht, 1011. by IUutllaser UCQ Cu ExcmaiYoCopnight.lOliUTewJork Herald S$3 - ' ' " Y;i--.;..,;ii.;.i.. , Pink Liberty Satin Gown with Gold Embroidered Tunic Mnfron Ncy ' , Tboto Copyrlsht, 1011, by Iutllnser ExcIujItc Copyr'sht, 1011, New York Herald "tMMitiaST3- rArenls there is a decided difference in tho cut of the waist. It is iiot so low in the neck; in fact, is much moro on the order of what in our grandmother's day were known us V slmpc and square neck. The shoulders arc more covered, veiled ns aro the upper nrms with folds of the material of tho gown roilc de soie, chiffon chif-fon or oino somn?rausparcnt material of tho Mine color, outlined with n fold of bla(ck or white, prcforabjy the black If not unbecoming. At llic back the V shnpc not exaggeratedly low is the fashion, but uhrriy.H in keeping with tho lino of the material Over the shoulders. Too much attention cannot bo given to thin and also to the back of the yrafet being becoming nnd perfect in every detail. The clever Urqwmpker realtees flift and ropccta the shoulders of her customer in consequence, knowing that an Inch too much or too narrow Jti tiiu V will niin Ihe snmrtewt pown ever designed. " Tliis Is a oagQn when the ball gown that has served lis time, kfet its frecihaesB ami yet retains Its oqJ Hqos proves of great rrvlr for ovoeir ran 1 put ono ' of the pattern robw now bold at a grvat roductlon from the original price, or .draperies of some tmrnnnrent fabric not luecesiiarily expensive The too low lino of the lwill gown can be hidden under the I transparent or semi-traiuirxircnt fnbric of' ;th new tunic or overdress, and the color and deaigii of tho skirt will show through most effectively. Willi a white or light j color satin, hall gown wonders can. be I worked by.this method. I Practical and Smart Model. I For the woman who does not have to tcount ponuios nor calculators to. the cost of clothes the ordering of theatre and reatnnrant gowns is this season n keen delight, so fascinatingly attractive are moaof the model?. IVflcUcal and smart s one model, whiclmmlghl ba called con-serrntive con-serrntive in Its dfttinctire note. The gown iit of gray striped voile de toie of jtho softest pearl shade, and the skirt, quite tinlike tho majority, fa In hide pleats that fall straight from waist to hem. The wnist is made of band of ailver laee with pearl nnd jdlvor ucmiIk Uiat are In snrplice effect, and the ends are cauebt under a high belt of velvet with jewelled buckle. Extremely simple but Intensely smart, this is a moat itopuhirjuodel. Mnch more striking and alo morr' on the order of a ball gowu is a model of , setin with overdress or front pan1! of (bead embroidered net or tnlle. The upper jpart of the waist and tho bnek of the entire en-tire gown are of the Ha tin. On the front of tho waist is a wide choux of velvet ribbon rib-bon or a large velvet flower of sonic color i in direct contrast to the color of tho gown. A pale blue satin with the flower I of deep pink, a choux of mauve; a rose j pink gowu with deep crimson flower. pule yellow with deep orange, are a fow instances of what hits been made np. Black and White Fashionable. Whether a dork or a light gown is the more practical is often discussed, but no consensus of opinion has ever been obtained. ob-tained. Putting black out of the question, ques-tion, there is much to be said on both sides. The white and light colors clenu best and can be remotlelled oftonor, the darker colors wear longer without requiring requir-ing cleaning nnd are extremely distinctive. This winter there have been a groat number num-ber of blue theatre gowns. One brilliant dark blue with blue or black jet trimmings has been most popular, while a fascinating fascinat-ing changeable blue and mauvo has ben in constant demand. Bright pinks and one dark yellow shnde in various in.ateriali havo also been entered for competition, while lately in gray there have been seen, some exquisite shades andv materials. Black and white Is fashionable, exceedingly ex-ceedingly fashionable, nt present, and theatre the-atre gowns of this combination arc to be seen in infinite variety of design. A light mauve gown with a tnuie of h Is a popular model, while n black uoUn with a white chiffon nnd laco tunic is even more novel h'or tho latter thore are two different kinds of lace used iu the waist, while above tho hem of the' tunic is an inch hand of the finest Slot i. '; Jilwe at Illicfc Clh Sal hi bmrHl ',?r with an edge of guipure. The pattern of the fare sdiows out wiih marvclhum distinct!! agalnwt the black background, while tho band of black cntting the fold over the shonlders, finishing tho elbow sleeves and In the high girdlo,. Is lnott strikiug. In fact, this combination of black and whito Is almost without cr-i coptlon strikingly dhHinctlvc. AfrliM of rosea was years. and yeara ago a most fashionable color. In tlio winter jut past nnd now ngaiu this spring It is in style, and for a theatre gown combined with blnck lace is very wnart. It Is not to be worn by n young girl and is ono of the fow colors most becoming to oldor woman. With n touch of soft crf-ani white lace, jewelled trimmings. In which are pluL auictbjsU, a color scutine cauj f w : : a$ le worked out most effectively. There ':WU is a smart combinntiun .sometimes at- VE tempted of a touch of blue with tho ','H ashes of roses, but this can only be sat- 'K isfactorlly worked out by some one who ;1E In an nrifct in -colors as well an clothes. " H Jn tho monntlmc such a gown Is csscn- : jl tially smart and expensive. B Fancy silks and Eatins arc gowl invest- i iHk tncnts, and they can be bought, especially .-" Ijji Jl m IS k I Vetret Cottnmo trlta Lao Collar tnl Sh. . .' fmm : 1 just now, nt most reasonable prices, and .Jjl make up effectively. They aro excellent iyg for theatre gowns, and it is a good nlan t .z& to select th( more unusual designs and , ? colorings. Thoy aro often far less expen- '.' tjJS, sive and much smarter. Tlio color may V (jS in itself be dull nnd not becoming. Trim- hftz mlngs of some contrasting color that Is , li!. becoming will then transform tho gown !; tti and besides give an original touch that i; ? vlll make it far hmarler. Such a gown ,' t7- of a rather dull gray figured satin Is trans- i S$ formed by Its trimming of pale blue panno V & vol vet. 't Bp When cost is not considered the brocade i SI crep-J do Chlno combined with plnin satin V' kjfjl is extremely popular fur tho new theatre f S nnd restaurant gowns. The material drapes i 4s so perfectly that it is especially well suited JlT to the newest models on the classic lines ; !' ifit. 5p ; 1 8g ?Z- mirk &'- ; j , lwfo ) ' v;flj - : frax Cio(b Coat irllti Satlo licit rt tnJ CaSa. "'i- It 1 lc, be found In all-shades and colore 4Jl5'Al and will l unquestionably a most populat fliaj material this spring. wSj.' |