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Show PECULIARITIES OF ;, PRE-LENTEN MODES Lapels, Revers, Jabots and Sailor Collars Much I Affected How to Make Over .IS An Old Gown Eg Another very smart nnd novel blouso was recently seen at an exclusive Fifth avenue shop, one which could lend itself it-self admirably to any color schomo. Tills particular one was of white gros-arraln, gros-arraln, silk, having an Inch-wide gohien brown strip and veiled In very thin black chirfon. quit unadorned save for a shallow yoke, formed of many pin tucks, which were released Just an Inch bolow the collar bone. If ono does not care for tho touch of black with a costume, the veiling could be accomplished In a shade to match tho gown. Xet blouses also are much In vogue. One very smart ono was of black silk, laid In tiny tucks about one-half inch apart, laid over a foundation founda-tion of white satin, upon which was a wido band of coral satin ribbon, ad-Justed ad-Justed at shoulder scam and crossing cross-ing low over the bust In the fashion employed by the Greek maidens In ad- ' B Justing their robes. This ribbon nr- Bl laugeinent could bo temporarily ad- R Jusitd, so several dlnerent colors could 2 oo worn to match dlUm-nt gowns. Tho j ig: stocks ino.it in evidence for such I ijj blouses If not of the material aro of i m black or black combined with white Jg One especially trig model, a decided m Innovation, after our several seasons jS of all whlto neck-gear, was recently S scon at one of tho liulalalka concerts, w on a, llttlo French woman, obviously JJ Just ov er. It was of black moire with S3 a llttlo turn over of luscious creamy Jtf satin. A liny, square, stiff llttlo bow Kj held In placo u fall of rich creamy Kss lace. The cruamlness of tho materials MgJ umkI was an especially good feature. bLj as few faces can stand the contrast : Mr? of puro whlto against the skin, whllo ttrs a deep cream often enhances an other- IsTritf wlso hopelessly muddy complexion. Wffi Tne hats worn with the mid-season Slf gowns do not "V ary greatly from tlio B"i& winter's models, except In tho material, BHS which Is often of chenille or soft felt , Ei bip.ld of various tones and colors, H!i braided In together. Many of thero aro WSSa of light tones, cut mostly of eombro . kg colors to match the suit. M Somo Interesting developments of M front and back breadths, which havo M usually been quite unadorned, arc be- M lng shown this spring In addition to 'M being a pleasing and novel chango ,M they lend themselves admirably to the . M remodeled gown, which often has a . H worn from breadth or a framed back H breadth. Examples of theso aro shown ; M in tho second llguro In tho drawing, i H the front being an apparent elongation tM of tho little i:tou-llko coat. For tho H frayed back panel a band may bo ; M added as In tho fourth Illustration, a ' H corresponding band being added to tho '. H coat. H A very up-to-dalo model could bo rl mado from a last season's, princess jH broadcloili gown, similar to that ! shown on tho llguro at tlio extreme liift, This model was of golden broad- ;H cloth which wUs given a most trig H appeuriuice by the addition of a flat wM silk bntid of a deep tobacco brown. Mm This was applied lo .ill the edges with . MS a firmer braiding Just inside of sou- 1 H tache of a HghU'i creamy shade. Tho ' H I Sleeves were of ulbow lungth, with H a narrow frilling of deep ere-am laco ' H edgo to match the lace of tho little , M neckpluce. The next model was of a ' H deep snade of lav eu tier velveteen, al- ,M most a pansy shndc, that Just escaped ' H being half mourning. Tho bunds and .: H buttons weri of deep purplu biuck HP. velvet, und tho decoration on tho hIccvo r Hx consisted of a triangular piece of tho ': Hi volvel, bordered by threu of tho llttlo Wm buttons on either edgo Tho novel t HJ feature of this was the underarm plcco HB and sleeve being cut In ono, wh'lo the H back aUo Is most unique nnd be- J HJ coming, being cut In two pieces, tho i HJ shapo of which is quite clearly de- HJ plcted. i PH Tlio gown in the foreground was of f H black velvet, with hugh whlto ruvers, V Bl whoso sole ornamentation consisted of I H the huge ivory buttons. A narrow, i : hW little, long, tapering over collar of 1 IMj black satin relieved the whiteness of fvt tho large collar against the face, and J Hjf gavo proper balance, und the shaped ' SfiiS cuff held In place by tho Ivory but- i jCTi tons finished the elbow sleevos. Tho 9cf skirt was quite plain except for tho j i2, irregular plcco of velvet which was j r.- scemlngly buttoned on to tlio front j SVS breadth by Ave buttons. ( Jwt Ono of the prettiest and most be- f igU, coming models yet shown is Illustrated i SJTj; In tho second drawing. The back was f HHI especially good, tho back of the coat f H ane skirt fitting very smoothly, but '- HK porfectly loose, the simplicity of it W7Q being emphasized by a long row of Ksja) crocheted buttons. jjMfjtn A beautifully slender effect was af- Kf& forded by the combining of the front IKp panel of the skirt with the front of pi the little coat, being all cut in one i K& The coat was finished with a shaped, ' PgB flat-laying collar of a lighter shade of gjlll satin than the material used in tho ' SS?, gown Itself and was ovarlappcd by ' fcK moderately wide revers of moire, the S2 samo shade as thegown. The sleeves B' were severely plain, but beautifully J gjglj fitted. This model was developed In SSritv Fray ctamlno Th gown in tho first i- S5? drnwing was of navj blue serge, band- Bwri I ed In black with black silk braidings. ' Wft |