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Show I LATE MODELS OF I LESS SEVERE CUT H More ,Dressy Effects Now Being Shown for Smart H ' . ' Women Many Liberties Allowed in H Design and Ornamentation THESi: spring days, with tholr vigor and Inspiration, are the undeniable though reluctant heralds or many H things to comir all maimer of H occupations, both petlj und great, mW which absorb the mind feminine und mm tax It, even to Ua greatest endurance. B If ono be ho fortunuto uu to bo per- H manently located In onc'H abodo there PH fe numberless other attain to attend mw 10 which will necessitate much bus- H tUng about. Thla of ltsolf shouts for mW the ever-faithful tailor built. Lucky. H Indeed, 1b the houscwlfo who la settled m In her habitation with no thought or H worry of houao hunting, of trudging j H hopefully through lung lists of nwrn- Ingly desirable addresses, only to dls- mm cover aftr weary mile of looking at mW wonderful and often fearful places that m hr present home with Its annoying' H landlorU Is after all much to be de- PH Mred. Uowovcr, if she hus not thl H particular kind of worn, there aro PH many others thnt will demand her at- PM tcntlon And whatever the demand la 1 Jn the spring, one may rent assured PPJL that It will take one out of doors. The PPJ better dressed one Is the leas arduous PH becomes the task lo be performeil. PH Any economical boul who cherishes H in her heart the practicability of wear- PH lng her lnt year's tailor built for her H early spring expeditions will be most PH disappointed to icallze that such ft. PH course would be ill-advised and thor- H oughly liuprdCtlc.il. Whether she have PPJ the delightful tusk of hclectlng u trous- PH seau or the more dlgnlued und absorbr- H lilg purchase of n child's spring vvard- H jobc. better service and better prlceB PH Will result If she Is woll dressed. PH Clerks Invariable aie more attentive to PH a tnlloied customer than to an ovor- PH dressed damsel, and often have little PH bargain in reserve for especial occa- PPA Hlons, or will uiko the Uoublo to havo PPJI a piece of goods marked down as a PH remnant which otherwise would go at PH the regular price You who havo PH nursed the economical plan of utilizing PPM. our last season's gown, need not bo HT utterly discouraged, for It may mill be PH used by merely alteilng the line of tho PH Hklrt and posslblj that of the coat, PH althcugli a complete transformation 1 may frenuently be brouglit about by H merely adding huge lapels or a revere. H a. lino of braid or a row of buttons B aero s 3 tho back H A multitude of women will rejoice to H hear that many of the new spring H models glory In rather drrasy acces- H dories pr are even cut on rather less H formal lines thun heretofore. For my H part, it Would seem that a line should H be sharply druw n between the gown for H the Alrcvt and the gown for less formal H urc. nil decoration and ornamentation H being reserved for one's own friends 1 and family. On tho otlter hand, tho H drotfr tnodes simplify tho remodeling H problom, for one may accomplish cry H good result at home, wheruab a. se- 1 crcly plain tailored model would look H Itopxilcsy amateurish unlest done by H e. man tailor, no matter how simple H the alteration. Also If the Una of the Hj coat is not (julto correct, one may con- H ctnl it by a sailor collar, a wide at-' H rangement in front, a jabot, etc. The H centr6 flgdro in the- sketch Is an exccl- H lent .example of what may be accom- H plblitd by the addition of a broad coi- H Lar. The coat Itself might haio been H hTl it model of two Fcasons ago, but H converted into a modlshly up-to-date Hj costume by the addition of the lapels H Sleaes, too, allow of many liberties H lp construction,. Tho majority of the H nvr moleU in the advance vlewB have H lpYorlablj' either threc-auarters, or ql- L bow length sleeves, either quite plain Hr or elaborated by on?, two or threo H cuff-llko arrangements that arc net M Qrio the edge of tho sleeve proper. H turning downward rather than up over H Should, one happen to have an old H Eaton suit It could now be utilized H fairly wpll Jn a manner similar to the H little rrt-nch model at tho left of the j drawing. The narrow nss of fho EtOrf H shoulder could be obviated by setting H the top of the Mf-ev well out onto tho flj arm and netting In a foundational bit. H of the goods to ploc out the shoulder M and then applying braid of tho same H fhnde bnt a darker tone than the tult, H In the manner nuggested In drawing, or M by adding a wide collar This, whether H U be wide or narrow at tho top, should fit on to tho coat In a long point Just abovo tho wnlst Hn this being ono of tho principal earmarks of the season's gowns. Should the sleovos not hae that close fitting looseness at the elbow of prcent modes they could bo cut off Just nbo-. o the bend in the arm and an Inverted cuff applied, ns in tho sketch alluded to. Below this Is another similarly simi-larly hhaped cuff of black satin or whntever material and color arc chosen j fi. 5J W for tho trimming, and Jnsldo 0? it a frill of web-llko plaited llnon, which Is also in?ortod at tho neck In riarlng Jabot A. wide girdle of tho material like the collar completes tho coat and gives the proper up-to-dnt- line below tho waist The skirt Is cut very straight, narrawlng from the knees downward, and Is harmonized with tho coat by tho application of a wide baud of thfr trimming material The materials most In demand for tho between season street gown aro the sen-u broadcloth and velveteen or light-weight corduroy, some z!bolnc- and stapilncs being used for the more , I?,1' modt'19- All the darker shades or nluo and brownish reds, together with medium shades of green and lighter shndes of biown are much In vogno In broadcloths, whllf naj' blue, blrtck and deop gret-n predominate in the. serges, with an occasional stone-gray. stone-gray. Among the velvets nnd velveteen, velvet-een, black and- blnck-blue and brown are the most elegant, while in corduroj tho more delicate shades of brown and bluo prevail, nnd' for Southern wear nothing Is smarter than a white cor-duroj, cor-duroj, or ono of tho unbleached shades The blouses worn with these street gowns are mostly of silk or satin foundation oiled in net or chiffon, the same shadema tho suit. They may be quite severely plain or more or less elaborate according to the suit with which they arc worn. . Tho foundation of satin may bo of a lighter tone than the suit, or even of a harmonizing shade of another color. Some still pre- for the Perslnn patterns of various colors, col-ors, although thin Is not a new material mate-rial It Is a most eionomlcal choice to make, as It may be worn under various colored outei bodies, thus doing for several occasions and different color schemes For unpleasant weather most serviceable and -very smart blouses nre of Unyilla flannel, which comes In plain colors or in whlto with a hair stripe of lavender, purple, bluo or terra ter-ra cottn These should be severoly plain, tailored models and a soft woll-lltted woll-lltted plquo stock with turnover, and ono fancies a mannish llttlo black cravat. H!lV ftiwf ? fi lii !yi 'jiii 1 f |