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Show I "What the best -dressed women are going to weafj I PARIS FASHIONS fe ' FHl j H ilSfIT liHll ''Sn " JFfeSfas) OT-. fagg gy L tJWll Pearl Embroidered Tunie H VBmlSfSHSm Embroidered Voile Gown Wt jjMSSWW ' lfe3$$Sta, m. -. , BHHPli with Cerise Silk Jacket lSl laSBSMSlIP ' MlBIuc Llbert Satin Gown Wlth H 'Jaison Unzenct H ,J, Mole Gray Silk Voile Gown with Steel Embroidery i H , Photo Cop right. 1011. by Reutlinger f H .J" Exclusive Copyright. 1011, .ew York Iltrald Company H BY MRS. A. T. ASHMORE. H f 3IALL wonder is it tltttt the ar- H erage man lias little sympathy j H y -with women who complain of be- M jf ing utterly worn out trying to get H their summer wardrohc in order. , H Man, mere man, cannot (or a mo- H incnt realize the amount of time, thought H and patience required in those troublous H times to select what is becoming, suitable H irid smart. One great difGculty lies in the H fact that fasliions change with lightning H rapidity and for no obvious reason After H having selected a certain style of hat and H gown as being just what is smart and at- H tractive, new hats and new gowns will H appear in all the leading shops and will be J Sim I illl ' mm " H I WTIITE SILK GOWN' UMUKOIDERED IN BliOE. H worn by nil the best gowned women, and Hj the fashions of a month ago will loo): H "dowdy" and "oldtimcy, two terrible criti- Ht eisms to be passed on clothes. It requires H really a lot of courage and poise for a H woman to-day to retain her cool, quiet H judgment as regards dress and to remain H i .satisfied with the selection she has made H ( in the face of such uncertainty. H Full, Gathered Skirts. H The exaggerate tcant abirt has been H f accepted by many, if not all, women as H fashionable and smart, and now come H skirts gathered or full around die waist., H gathers and fulness carefully disposed, H i however, so tli.it the gown shall not make H the figure look large or fat. Nothing H more terrible than to be considered fat j can be imagined. It requires cleverness H and skill to to arrange a full skirt an not H jto give this dreaded effect, 'and the care- H ,;f"Hy fitted lining is the only solution. H ' Lv bilk or iatin lining so close fitting us to outline the figure almost too plainly ia most charmingly hidden under the over-skirt over-skirt of transparent material that falls in graceful folds over it, a little gathering or fulness where the ovcrkirt is joined to the belt. A wide double hot pleat at the back aud overlapping partb of an embroidered chiffon overskirt is not unbecoming un-becoming even with a figure that is inclined in-clined to be large. This season the overskirt is a most marked feature of all goum, and a mot remarkable vnricty of effects is to be noted. Folds of the mnterial are draped in bias diagonal lines across thefront. Tunic ovorsk'irts of lace and embroidered tulle, lace flounces and short apron over-skirts, over-skirts, are all in style, aud not one can be classed as the smartest. Filet lace npron ou'rsklrts arc extremely effective carefully care-fully fitted to the figure, and the most ej.qulaite of lace is used for this purpose. Strange to tay, tills apron overskirt is the only plnce on the gown where there is filet lace. There nre laco hmuls on the waist, but often these nre of a different dif-ferent kind Cluny, Vnlcncicnncs or even a French imitation lace Fringe and Jet Trimmings. All overskirts nre trimmed, or rather finished, with some sort of trimming a fold of chiffon, bilk or satin, or a fringe of'sllk- crystnl, jet or chenille, or if the overskirt be of chiffon there mny be n scant flounce or band of lace as a finibb. i WwMk I4 mm . ,SJln,ndLnce WvdOUyr Gown. This band-maybe wido oc narrow, as In the more becoming. k f ' The Russian blouse fashion is suggested by the silk or satin belted blouse to be worn with voile, lingerie, net or lace titiS&lh. iJfeSrV W & i1-. n w J iVW&F'fc' V&gk Photo Copyright, lOll. by BcutlinKcr 5, SSPs &lh "?$K & mJ Exclusive Copyright. 1911. Ksfefe&'5f W nLl York Ucra,d Company L'';,.,,;Tsfs .. ; , mm. : ; : " S' v glStll Embroidered Gray Mousseline de Soie Gown Over White S3tin eSwk t A, i iS on Droll MMJ Slf i , ' Photo Copyright, 1011, by RcafllDRer $WfciM Kli "" -j r . Dicluslve-Copyrlght, l'Jll. New York Herald Company tSS- fit$.fih ' v KKti'SdaSr. Ei$mw gowns. It is rather a trying fashion and requires a good figure to look smart, but it is certainly attractive. The newest new-est model is sleeveless, but is cut long over the shouders, so that the effect of an exaggeratedly short kimono sleeve is given and the armhole is very large, so as to allow of the wearing underneath of a lace or lingerie waist made with the kimono slcees. It is worn with a belt of velvet and is finished with a narrow edge 61 heavy lace. Ceriae, green, blue, yellow and pink arc the favorite coloia, and there are some most effective vblack coats of thifi order. The model also is used for the filet and Irish lace coats worn over silk or satin gowns. ' l Jetted Tulle :nd Net. Jetted tulle and net gowns mndc up over satin are luvanably becoming and effective and neer nre entirely out of style, but this season the same effect of gown in different coloring is smarter than the all black. Mole color, or taupe, ns is tlie correct term, made up with steel embroidery em-broidery .is far smarter and there are no end of most charming pattern robou jof this description; the embroidery on j the net or tulle is in the opeu work, nothing noth-ing heavy looking, aud the best model is the close fitting tunic, which closely outlines out-lines the figure. The satin underskirt is wider and longer thnn is considered really fashionable, but it is one of the newest models, and while there is more width and length, the whole gown is so cleverly designed that it gives the appearance appear-ance of slendcmess. Waist Severe in Lines. The waist is almost severo in its lines, quite fiat, cut square in the neck and with half sleeves. The same model is effective in other colors, and hns been mado in white over pink satin, but in the darker colors, it is smartest. Such quantities of lace as are uficd this season! There are few, if any, gowns on which there is not some lace, while' wide flounces arc most cleverly draped and "worked in" with bands of entre j deux or embroidered chiffon. A popular , model of embroidered Voile dc soie in an exquisite shade of gray is trimmed with '( wide flounces of Venetian lace. Folds of . the material bordered with the lace are j draped diagonally across the front of the t gown, and nt the back also the lace falls ( almost to the edge of the train. On the t waist .the lace Ls most charmingly arranged ar-ranged to fall in broad collar or reers i ji 'u, X. - , JrfJ ftiun I Embroidered Voile rje Sole 'Gown Over Satin, liaison DnfcoJJ. Thoto CcfpyriRbt, 1011, by Itcutllnjer Exclusive Copyright, 10JL1; WcW.Tork. Hcrahl Compajjs at one side, the other beiug draped with edition or the voile de soie. The belt is placed high to give the short waisted effect ef-fect so fashionable at the moment and Ls of a deeper gray thnn the material. The color of the gray is exquisitclj soft ind oveu the white hns a pearly tone that is much more becoming than the ?rny that is generally chosen and which i.s ii pt lo be hard and cold. If preferred i the girdle or belt can.be of a contrasting color, 'but that is not so smart of distinctive. dis-tinctive. To be fashionable this summer gowns must be looae lilting or, at all events, : give that effect. AH the new corsets fit cloc over the hips and are extremely long, but the low busted corset is demanded de-manded with all the newer styles of dress. This fashion is most noticeable in the low cut evening waist, and it is infinitely more becoming than any other, but care must he taken both with corset and gown lh.it it is not too loose and too low busted, for then the effect is neither smart nor becoming. be-coming. Everything about the dress of the present day is so deceptive ! These same loose fitting waists have the most carefully care-fully fitted linings, the waists cut so exaggeratedly exag-geratedly low in the back have a transparent trans-parent piece of lace and a net to hold the sides together and the almost invisible flesh color yoke and collnr worn with the low cut waist seems like a sort of compromise com-promise with the fashion that so stnpidlj tries to inaugurate itself in the collarless effects becoming to so few women. Independence in Dress. This is certainly an ago of independence independ-ence in dress, and once again must it be said that the becomingj.'ind suitable fashions fash-ions should be chosen in preference to all others. And when there are so many different dif-ferent stales, materials and colors to select se-lect from certainly it would he worse than folly to select the unbecoming simply because be-cause it has a certain air-and style that make it stand out from a lot of other gowns that arc merely attractive and not distinctive. For those who prefer picturesque simplicity sim-plicity in costuming an excellent opportunity op-portunity to gratify this taste is offered of-fered this season by the Louis XVI. gowns which have the straight satin skirts with tho high belt effects and the draped lace fichus. An exquisite model of this sort was made of pale pink satin, the skirt finished only with n broad hem. The skirt was rather scant nnd it was only moderately high waisted, not sufficiently suffi-ciently so ns to mnke it difficult to wear by the woman to whom the short waisted i gown is usually a menace. The bodice FLOWEItED VOILE T1UMMED WITH Dh.lCK. SATI.V. , J "' ' 'T: : was completely covered with the draped lace or fichu, which was knotted in thu middle The fichu as of"tha genuinely old fashioned sort worn double and open-inJii open-inJii a V shape over the bare throat. It was only saved from clumsiness by its exceeding sheerncss, which made the double thickness no more heavy than a single thickness of lace of ordinary j weight. The high girdle was finished in f f.A.4- :!. .. -C-..A1 Irwl MtffnD nVlO .1 frout with four jewelled buttons. The : sleeves were in two parts, the upper part j' flat at the shoulder but of medium size f and turned back from the elbow in a roll of the satin. The under sleeve, which was ? very tight fitting, came well down over j the wrist These undersleeves were made i of the cmbioidered net of the fichu and i were finished on the inner side of the j arm in a tiny frill. j White Marquisette Model. J Accordion pleated tea gowns are " among the novelties which will appear dur- j ing the warm weather. For some time the ' accordion pleated models have been somewhat some-what neglected, although, whatever the J fashion of the moment, the accordion A pleated styles arc never entirely forbidden, especially for very soft materials made up in house gowns A ery distinctive ns well as beautiful new model for a summer sum-mer tea gown is of accordion pleated k w.'hite marquisette 'n a Quality so fine that .at first glance it looks like chiffon. The f Ij skirt is very high waisted and very long. ) j The bodice is trimmed with a surplice of j henvy lace, which crosses over the bust and j cl S if w it i If 1 1 M I 'III lil EMBnOIDEItED MAHQUISETTE COSTDXTC fcS ends nt the belt. The belt la a narrow hj hand of white satin ornamented with cut i Hj steel clasps. The sleeves are of the siav jg plcst possible design, perfectly straight 8F elbow sleeves, unlined, so that the arm w shows through, nnd finished with a hem. $j The shiBhcd skirt which succeeded the jupo culotte in the favor of sonic of the j Paris modistes is seen in some of ths ', gt new evening gowns, although it has not i JIT . gained universal approval by any means- ' 5ga In fact, it is hardly popular enough to gr bo considered by the uverajre woman at gJTf all, but the woman who wvlshes to have 5 Fj a strikiug addition to her shimmer ward- v g robe may cure to consider) it. at least ' 3n One of tho new models in this stjlc of , Jif gown is of I&npire green JbJtin with a , jif-, silk musliu tunic edged with, slher fringe. ; Q The skirt of the satin is flashed about e two-thirds of the way up tot tbo knees or er the wearer, the slashes a',' "'C11 n'1 ,d? t'1 lower edge of the skirt WcidS bor!kT?, $ with silver .braid Tlie. Jnnic and tho 5, lower part of the bodice. f0f rale,sh Sft". mous-seline de soie. are enit;hroitlcfed :;',. w wlv-r bihd5 and l.orderediTitli tuc,s,lr W fiinge. The chemisctto a,,! shor sleeve- ace of silver net. Therefore s5er " ; ?2i incuts on the sleeves, nffHl a cc L .' i2rl with long ends forms thiS. jrJlc. - ?j |