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Show Ira B las I j . J I ' fWHAT THE BEST DRESSED WOMEN ARE GOING TO WEARJ ' 1 B . --- V i I jjjl AR 1 5 FA SHION5 fiti& - Sl ' fl BY MRS. A. T. ASHMORE. H -- rRING and summer fashions now H . challenge attention, and every H woman, whether or not she wishes H K -T to, is forced to think nhout dress. H At the moment dressmakers are H resting a little from their labors, for H with most of the leading establishments H the last of February and the first week H of March is a dead season, corresponding H to the stocktaking in department shops, when everything is looked over and put in H i readiness for the rush of custom, which H I this year promises to exceed that of many past Reasons. But all the time new model;: H 'arc being exhibited and new information H is Riven out as to what arc to be the styles H for spring and summer. H ) Again comment has to be made on the H jdifllculty of selecting tKc spring ward- H j robe. No one, not even the most cx- j travagant of women, cares to order a H I lot of gowns that will not be worn, and H yet who can tell whether the thin or the H thiol: gowns will be demanded by thn exigencies of the weather? To select H cloth1 costumes and heavy gowns, and H then long before summer should com- H mence, according to the calendar, to liavc H Bmi-tropicnl weather set in or vice ersa, H to prepare for a warm spring season and H v.: bbV v JBK&rai- H rA Whe$e&t - n HBfep iiilliiil bbH , $s&m wJs H j Sacde-Clotb Gown .with 'Cerise 'Velvet Collar ' B oto Copyright. 1011, by Rcotllngcr w Exclusive Copyright, 1011, New York Herald H liaTe cold wintry weather up to the Crt H of June, is decidedly perplexing but the B problem has to bo fnced just the same, rc- Hj gardloss of weather. H This year there are an unusual number 1 of cloth gownB dlsplacd among the spring 1 models not coat and skirt costumes, bur H gowns o it is to be hoped that tbo H weather will be favorable to the wearing H thereof. One thing to make it possible is H too transparent yoke and sleeves and tin; 1 light weight linings tli.it arc now mtcd. B Small wonder that clotli gowns nrc fash- H ionablc, so exquisite in coloring and texture H are the cloths of the present day. Di H Ughtfully light in weight, soft and pliable, H they can so ewily be fitted to the figure H and equally easily be dr.iped to fall in the H classic lines now so popular. All the light - "Tf&HTBBBwnil52s5 AbbmB PiJ'lli: 'ffl Black and Wh5te Chcck TaUor Costume W$ty&$(& M Phoro c')Pynllt 1l1 bJ neutliDftcr rxSroi'iyu Bx-Iualve Copyright, 1011, New York Herald shades of color arc in demand, with a few rather striking colors, and alwajs black or whitij for the tomervulic minded. Gray is a rn(wt popuiar cojor tlljs SI,rmg and ip countless shades, with, howo cr, a marked preference for the pearl gray, the most becoming of all Then there is old rose pink and ashes of roses, a pinkish shaded tan, and what might be called n warm tint of mole color. Blue still retains re-tains it hold on popular fancy, but uu-leid uu-leid a newer, softer .shadc-tlnin 1ms been lashlonalde all winter is uxed tle efTect is too crude in the bright spring tmnabine. It is most odd to see how different colors are affected by different Masons of the year. Rarely do the same hlindc. look well whiter and pummer. Soft NnttW blue is attractive, but the king blue so uch used in trimming and also in gowns eiiuires to be softened by n darker shade, ery much darker, or .black. Suede in the gray tone i" one of the new shades this season, and the cloth is ovncily like n suede glove in its soft and plubld finish. Like every oilier gray, this slinilo is not1 becoming to everj woman, and great care should be taken when it is selected that if not becoming jn itself it is made so by the white yoke and colkir and trimming. A touch of black with suede is alwajs effective, ef-fective, but again is not always becoming.1 Skirt and Coat Costumes. j Tho skirt and coat costume is without question the most nntihfactorj for gen j owl street wear at nuj lime of jeur. This season one of the smartest models is in suede cloth, with a waist of chiiTou the same shade, made oer a white lining lin-ing that is cocred with bands of gold and I silver luce, the siler lace embroidered I with a touch of rose pink, that gives iJ more becoming note Another etremcl j smirt model, with fancy short jacket and' tunic overskirt, has a chiffon waist with' long V-shnped joke and collar of white net edged wjth a fold of black chiffon, for which can be substituted a fold of rose pink. A broad flat cojlar of Venetian lace oxer rose pink vehet gives a more decided contrast and is delightfully distinctive. dis-tinctive. "Once again appear the black and white cheek costume, which "every jear arc said to bo old fashioned and every jear are seen in countless numbers. This year the first to be shown nre more elaborate than usDal,unfortiinatelj The checks arc larger, Ue skirt is made with tunic effect and deep cuff and shawl collar of satin or civet are fashionable. These black and white check materials are practical, but never look sosniart as other plainer designs, and are really more for hard wear than for dress. It 'will be noticed that almost without ex-ception ex-ception conts are short and in varied style. The long co'uls are quite distinct garments much mqre on the separate coat order and noL made to wear with any one gown. Elaborate Cloth Gowns. The cloth gownof the spring is quite elaborate and Js-Tn, Itself a finished garment, gar-ment, with whichis worn, if n wrap he necessary, the long coat or a scarf of , satin or soft silki Old rose is a most fashionable color Hi all he different shades and is made up wit;li satin of the snrae color and trimmed with soutache braid, also of the same color. A white joko and collar of lace reIIeo the monotony of the 6ne shade, and there are folds" of satin and satin buttons as an additional touch Interesting. Shades of Blue. There are two or three smart models in blue cloth that areeffectie either in the darkest French blue or the palest of Nattier blue. The former, trimmed with black soutache braiding and black satin, is not so new as tijc light blue with the biaid and satin to match. Sloecs of elbow length are again to be fushiouablc, but worn with under-slcces under-slcces of lace and chiffon. The sleeves of the waists do-not reach quite to the I elbow and aro of iitetlinin size, generally finished with a fold of satin, elct or i BSIpW'Sl Sslilllll r Back of old Ro5C CIoth Gown W VT-' Malson Drecoll S tafiaJiffifr "$& ':$ 'S Photo Copyriiht, 1011, by Reutlfter ' S iMSBP''''tAt Biclulvo Copyright, 1011. Now York HcraliJ i nix Jg$ l ' 1 ) ' Old Rom: Cloth Gown Maiaoti Barroin Photo Crfpyright, 1011, by neutUngcr Exclusive-Copyright, 11)11, New York Uerald J' chiffon. The underslceve's of chiffon are finished with a flu l uaud or bands of lace and reach below the elbow half way to the wrist. The more elaborate short jackets are also ma.do with elbow skeves, but in the more practical costume the sleee reaching.. i littlo above the -wrist is correct. The kimouo sleeve for waists and the more elaborate roats, Jiort or long, is the most popular, and it lhust be admitted the fashions at present aro extremely ex-tremely becoming and spacefill, while for warm weather tho short sleeves arc far more comfortable. The undersleeve quite ?A does awny with the chief objection to the Rt short sleeve, as it partly covers the lower Ipj arm. Sleees are not tiht excepting in ife evening dress, when the short cap sleeve j ml qf lace or embroidered net fits close to the jiluo arm, but at the same time are not largo W nud definp the shape of the arm becom- j lEf iugly. Xo lining is necessnry with the "Jj i undersleeve, w Inch forms the lining in v Inj itself, and consequently it is far simpler kgj to fit the sleeve, while the undersleeve, Wj being quite separate, can easily be taken fjac out nud cleaned or freshened without dis- Bill turbing the waist in W way. Kj A J ' r - 11 Vt$ ." Adornment of Collars. Ijjj The high collar of lace or net is now j- H trimmed around the top with a narrow fll fold of chtffon or lace, gold or silver. If fJH the collar be of the cream white then the ' BRe fold Is black, and if black or dark colon i, ? then a narrow lace turned over is the j, KjSj smartest finish. Another littlo detail to Jj be noted in the spring costumes is the ! Sil nnrrow fold of satin or velvet on the S Jk (skirt or wherever it is most effective on j, "U.S jwaist nnd jacket. The band of satin at J sf - I the foot of the bkirt coutinucs to be - fajvi smart and is narrow or wide as preferred. jjojj 'If the wide band looks best then it is 1; Qgjm chosen; if the narrow, then that Is sc- ' ton ilected. " Pt |