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Show ss The Salt Lake TribuneTRAVELSunda Faulkner Legacy Stirs Once-Sleepy Oxford, Miss. BY TED GREGORY CHICAGO TRIBUNE OXFORD,Miss. — Like Chicago, this town tucked in the red clay hills of north Mississippi knows the horror and redemption offire. In 1864, Union troops burned its town square and fivestately mansions to the groundin retalia- ford has no Faulkner statue and one less magnolia tree. But Oxford does havetheblues. For the enthusiast who wants to e academic, Ole Miss’ Blues Archive is a public library devoted to the blues. Opened in 1984,it is the only public institution of its kind and houses more than 60,000 recordings, posters, photographs, film andrelated materials. Among the material is B.B. King’s personal collection of recordings and memorabilia. This is probably the only place you'll ever find a B.B. King concert poster printed in Russian. Ole Miss is a picturesque campus well worth a stroll, and not tion for a surprise Confederate attack on Memphis. Oxford soon revived itself, rebuilding most ofits town centerin six years. But then, unlike Chicago, Oxford almost stood still for more than a century. Now there’s an artistic and cultural renaissance that has left locals with the same mixed feelings just to join the masses who wor- Knight-ftidder Tribune they got when native son William Faulkner used Oxford as the set- ‘The creative buzz around town, most agree, flows from Faulkner and the literary heritage he helped create. The Pulitzer and NobelPrize-winning author, considered by many to be America’s greatest writer,lived and worked in Oxford from 1930 until his death in 1962. His estate, Rowan Oak,is a required stop for visitors, who come to gaze at the handwritten outline of the Pulitzer Prize-winning A Fable onhis office walls and his mud-caked boots in his bedroom. And every summer, Faulkner fans flock to town for the Faulkner and Yoknapatawpha Conference, six days of lectures and discussions by literary scholars and critics sponsored by the Universi- ty of Mississippi — Ole Miss. This year’s conference (the 24th)is set for July 27-Aug.1. But a morerecentproliferation of authors — published and otherwise — make the chances of bumpinginto a writer in Oxford Sree . about the same as brushing against a casino dealer in Vegas. Most notable among them is John Grisham, the best-selling novelist. Until his fame became too intrusiveto his work, Grisham lived full-time here. Now he's * ee vard, offers an intriguing look at the literary legend who wrote on his typewriter on the “What we have is a patchwork quilt in the center and in the community, all of which combines to and 2-4 p.m. Tuesdays-Satur- magnet for students and the general public," said William Ferris, director of the center. lawn. Hours are 10 a.m.-noon days; 2-4 p.m. Sundays, Ad- missionis by donation. Groups and handicapped persons are encouraged to make advance arrangements. Call 601-2343284 ‘This year’s annual Faulkner make the communityan attractive place,” he added. “It’s connected to the center; it’s connected to Square Books and to John Grisham and to William Faulkner and tion by J.M. Faulkner and Meg Faulkner DuChaine, sessions on “Teaching Faulkner,” the eighth annual Faux Faulkner Contest and tours of Faulkner sites. Registration fees range from $175 for students to $225 for other participants. After July 1, the fee increases by $25. For information on this session oi lectures and discussions, which is open to all, call the University of Mississippi at 601-232-5993. Arts Fest: The Double Decker Arts Festival, April 26 on the town square, will offer two stages of bands perform- ing blues, gospel, jazz and rock; diverse artisans; children's fair; traditional south- ern and gourmetcuisine. Information: Oxford Tourism Council, 800-758-9177. to Elvis Presley and to the blues.” ae ST Circus ian, Spanish Caribbean and Ca- _ ern cafe like Smitty's, wheregrits come with every breakfast and the plain biue pastel menu states, “If'n you need anythingthatain't onhere,holler at the cook.” Another sign of the times: ) | ( sf } Around the square there are four establishments with balconies where you can enjoy a drink. But despite its newfound identity, Oxford remains a somewhat isolated place, 23 miles from the nearestinterstate, where the old and the new keep butting heads. Colonel Reb, the school’s mascot, and the Confederate stars-and-bars, the school’s unofficial banner. A day after the second rally, James Meredith, the man who integrated Ole Miss in a reading or a book signing. tended spot, the Faulkner family withdrew its support. Now Ox- Seattle. Join us “Just For Fun.” Disneyland $909 fron able . 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Youalso can try traditional fine dining — or a classic south- Thereis enough interestin literature in town that two or three times a week Square Books — billed as the coolest bookstore in the South — will host authors for All these writers have produced Faulkner Country: William Faulkner's estate, Rowan grees on the American South, in addition to sponsoring diverse re- events will be an exhibition of Faulkner photographs by Martin J. Dain,slide presenta- Teslinisheatete) choicesthat include Oriental,Ital- 1962, donated his papers to the school. The same day, the owners of two Oxford music venues were thrown in jail for allowing rappers 2Live Crew to perform anallegedly nude and lewd concert. Even Faulknercanstill be controversial. A plan to erect a Faulkner statue in front of City Hali got bogged downin a dispute on whereto placeit. After the city caused a furor by chopping down a large magnolia tree at the in- May. (601-234-3031) and Ramada Inn (601-234-7013). undergraduate and graduate de- PORTLAND ROSE FESTIVAL WITH VICTORIA June 5-13 - $840 changing, with international symbols: ) Rowan Oak, whoreceivedcritical praise for her new novel, The Wander Bookof the Air, and for» mér University of Mississippi philosophy instructor Wylene Dunbar, who will haveherfirst novel, Mary Margaret Cape, released in Puddin’ Place (601-234-1250), to chains, like Holiday Inn ence, “Faulkner at 100: Retro- July 27-Aug. 1. Among the ly nonstop flight ser 1993, and Oxford even hasa record company, Fat Possum Records, started in 1991 by a former Ole Miss student and friends intent on giving exposure to blues artists and local rock bands, The cuisine has also been town when they hear his private clude Cynthia Shearer, curator at Tea Room (601-234-8043) and Observatory was restored and converted into a place that offers G COT) newspaper began publishing in One week in late March, two rallies at Ole Miss brought out supporters of two racially divisive Larry Brown, Barry Hannah Breakfast (800-236-5696), the Oliver-Britt House Inn and the drive to establish the Center for the Study of Southern Culture in 1977, The antebellum Barnard and Yoknapatawpha Conferspect and Prospect,” is set for Crew, El Vez (‘The Mexican El- cals joke that they know he’s in and Willie Morris, all acclaimed authors, live in and around Oxford as well. Other writers in- tion from sleepy backwater hamlet to South Cooltown.Its sponsorship of the first Faulkner vis"), New Orleans Klezmer Allstars, Morphine and, of course, various blues acts, A free arts and culture weekly only a part-time Oxonian, and lo- jet roar overhead. y a, square, and art now appears on the wallsof local restaurants. And three venues bring in musical acts as diverse as rap group 2Live Ole Miss, of course, has played a key role in Oxford's slow evolu- Lodging: It runs the gamut, from bed and breakfasts, such as Barksdale-Isom Bed & gion in which it was located, led see urbane and energetic place. a ripple effect that goes beyond literature. Three new art galleries recently sprouted around town i ting for many of his novels, It’s not exactly Hipsville USAyet, but for a town of 10,000 in the Deep South, Oxford is a surprisingly ship Rebel football and baseball. Two university museums house collections of archeology, art, anthropology, decorativearts, history, science and technology. IF YOU GO conference in 1973started the renaissance. Then, a group of Ole Miss teachers and administrators, believing they could distinguish the university by focusing on the re- DOUBLETREE |