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Show Thursday, September esplie World War 11, Fremieh THE DAILY HERALD, Provo, Utah, 29, en), yes, that provoked them. By DEMISE COWIE Knight-Ridde- r Newspapers Fifty years later, it's hard to imagine that anyone gave a second thought to French fashion as bombs rained down on Europe during World War II. With "liberte" itself facing the firing squad, who had time for "haute couture?" Plenty of people, apparently. According to Antony Beevor and his wife, Artemis Cooper, in "Paris After the Liberation" (Doubleday, $27.50), not only was Parisian fashion a weapon of the resistance, but the Germans themselves considered it a spoil of war. a Page B3 fashion has endured TT 6 - In 1940, they write, the Germans told Lucien Lelong, head of the "Chambre Syndicale de la Couture," that all the great French designers and their skilled workers would be transferred to Berlin which, along with Vienna, would become the home of fashion in the New Europe. "You can impose what you will by force," Lelong responded, "but Paris' "haute couture" is not transferable. ... It exists in Paris or it does not exist at all." And it had existed in Paris as nowhere else. Before the war, the Parisian designers dictated fashion to the rest of the world. Their position was unassailable. V The French, knowing they had something the Germans coveted, didn't hesitate to flaunt it during those long years of the occupation. "Yes, true 'Parisiennes' were supremely elegant during the four years; they had the elegance of These "Parisiennes" were part of the resistance." Those fashionable Parisians did indeed provoke the Germans. After the liberation, they also provoked their own countrywomen. By early 1947, Christian Dior was ready to launch his first show. The most famous dress in that hisit changed the toric collection direction of fashion overnight was a w hite shantung jacket with a nipped waist over a wide black pleated skirt. Dior's favorite was a gown with a tight bodice and tiny waist topping a skirt made of yards and yards of white faille. The dresses, with their extravagant use of fabric, received standing ovations. According to Beevor and Cooper, Carmel Snow of Har- per's Bazaar exclaimed, "Your dresses have such a new look!" But the conspicuous consumption of the New Look didn't sit well with working people of Paris, and anger spilled over during a fashion shoot of Dior's models. "The street sank into an uneasy silence," write Beevor and Cooper, then "a woman stallholder hurled herself on the nearest model, shouting insults. Another woman joined her, and together they beat the girl, tore her hair and tried to pull the clothes off her. Other models made a hasty retreat. " Dior had the last laugh, though. The New Look was such a hit worldwide that it accounted for 75 percent of total export sales from France's fashion industry in 1947. racehorses," wrote hostess Lise Deharme, whose remembrances were recorded in "Paris After the Liberation." xji AP Photo A multicolored woolen top with a mode) as part of Christian Dioi's fashion collection in Paris. wrap-arou- gold skirt is worn by a nd fallwinter haute couture 1994-9- 5 AP Photo model presents a striped light and dark green suit with matching top and hat as part of Christian Dior's 1994-9- 5 fallwinter haute couture fashion collection in Paris. A "With a tear in the eye but a smile on the lips, beautiful, perfectly made up, discreet and insolent, they exasperated the Germans. The beauty of their hair, of their complexion ... their slimness as opposed to the fat ugliness of those overgrown trouts packaged in gray (the German servicewom- - jplfBanbury Lanesf&; Slmply...Wonderfal Jjk New Fall Wreaths J By DENISE COWIE Jnight-Ridde- r Newspapers .Vpriagine yourself, if you dare, Cruising into the office in a thigh-fiig- h suit right out of "Melrose Place." No? By JEANE DIXON For Sept. 30 ARIES (March 19): Events behind the scenes capture your attention. Let your ideas and wishes be known through an intermediary. Secret transactions can be rewarding. Trust your instincts. Romance should be exciting for both marrieds and singles. TAURUS (April 20): A newcomer you meet socially can be very helpful; Make a business presentation in writujg Distant developments give you an opportunity to improve your finances By changing your methods, you will mke real headway. GEJkQNI (May 2Wune 20): Agreement Negotiated today promise - benefits. Deal with top people, not their representatives or secretaries. Friends could be in a difficult mood tonight: Offer distractions. CANCER (June 22): A good day la set a new course financially. Influential people will offer their support. Take a firm stand with family members who tend to be extravagant Events-a-t a distance arouse your curioslong-lasti- ly How about long and elegant? Not your style? Well, there's always the modest knee-lengt- h, beloved by Calvin Klein in his fall collections. The good news is, you can't go wrong. "Length is really whatever you want," says Rita Eisenberg, divisional vice president, public relations, for John Wanamaker. Calvin Klein's skirts for fall have been praised as popular and blasted as frumpy. But it's a look that changes with the wearer. "Some think it's dowdy and boring. Others think it's the chicest look there is," says Jane Carton, fashion director of Saks Fifth Avenue. "It's just one hip-pes- t, 494 S. State ?VN Orem 226-116- 3 option. we will not see the skirts we might see in acasual situation." The department stores plan to make the choice easy. Almost all of them will be offering career wear in every lengtn, although few business suits w ill sport skirts quite as short as those that pranced down the runways or are ogled weekly in "Melrose Place," that fantasy-lan- d where all the women have micro skirts, fabulous legs and jobs that never require them to work. Even the catalogues acknowledge that it's the buyer's choice in fashion these days, not only in suit lengths but in skirt lengths generally. Chadwick's of Boston will offer a Savannah wool skirt in its winter catalogue in 23-- , 25- - and lengths. And Spiegel's fallw inter catalogue has suits in a variety of lengths as well as skirts that range from 17 31-in- is still that above-the-knlength that is a staple now it "There works," she adds. "And the mid-ca- lf length, (but it) can get tricky if it's not put together right. ' For Chris Gentry, a fashion director for Bloomingdale's, how ath skirt is detractive the individual: on the "If your pends legs are not your strong suit, then a longer length is probably a better bet." From a fashion point of view, she adds, skirts are still short. "But in a business situation knee-lengt- Mb G GS g) P Q rk inches to an ankle-grazin- g ii 35. "There is so much controversy over anything 22 inches or shorter, and so many (women) who don't want to wear skirts, so they go for the medium," says B.J. 34-in- ch Bendyna. fashion merchandising coordinator for Strawbridge & Clothier, But she still sees medium length as a hard sell. 3 ity. ILEO (July 22): You receive seme fantastic news! Avoid crowing about your good luck. Instead, be grateful to those who have helped you. Deeds njeaij more than words to someone you hope-impress. ;VEKpO (Aug. 2Wept. 22) : A new job coulipean lots of travel. Unsubstantiated rflmors could have your on pms and needles. Continue to meet al deadlines. A missed mortgage or rent payment could spell trouble. 22): A favorite ; LIBRA (Sept companion fills your thoughts; you may even -- tie thinking about marriage. point out a need for further reflection. Do nothing in haste. SCORPIO (Oct 21): Although something that happens today seems uhfortunate, it will work out for the best Make a real effort to change a g. 2) FINAL CLEARANCE Ofi ALL REMAINING PYKETTES BRAND SPRING & SUMMER LADIES SPORTSWEAR GREEN TICKETED ITEMS 1 attitude. Putting yourself at someone's service helps you riake! amends. 21): SAGITTARIUS (Nov. Iindlyour support to a group dedicated W progress and reform. A close friend raaki valuable suggestions; consider tfjem' carefully. Keep a financial firm footing by reinvesting the Become someone's mentor. 19): ReCAPRICORN (Dec. cent pressures may have caught up with yu, eaving you worn out Rest Sy late afternoon, you will feel rejuvenated and for an evening out Dine with good friends in a favorite restaurant 18): All will .AQUARIUS (Jan. go smoothly if you curb a tendency to overreact to criticism or project your views too forcefully. Show your sense of humor when dealing with your Good will is contagious! 20): SomePISCES (Feb. one's reluctance can be overcome If you Construc-Uv- e appeal to their better nature. activities win you the approval of U)oe In high positions. If you cannot handle all the paperwork, hire someone SALE DOES NOT INCLUDE OUR NEW FALL GROUP, OUR DENIM PANTS, OR OUR BASIC GROUP IN BLACK AND NAVY. SALE NOT VAUD ON PRIOR PURCHASES. LIMITED TO STOCK ON HAND c. enter-prise- mij PANTS BLOUSES SKIRTS SELECTED PREVIOUS SEASON FALL & JACKETS HOLIDAY STYLES LIMITED TO STOCK ON HAND NOT VAUD ON PRIOR PURCHASES b. wbcn. ' FACTORY OUTLETS 5 Orem 64 West Center Street Hours 10 am to 6 pm Monday through Saturday Closed Sunday 224-655- J FACTORY OUTLETS W A jM Length of suits is up to you for fall ;; Wyi wi W A 'va? |
