OCR Text |
Show : Copday CoIIap and Hue Button&QyH gy jyjCv a Feature of this Russian rfC) rfeckweanBecouit J 1 Sj Model ((AHjMDi'e Conventional Thtf Current Vj. X'i Ccal Length i " ""'V-' ' ' " ' 'f , Jj ': xibool Tfvtrty tp TtiiPty-lwo Inche . ! ' ji ;-vvil Skirts Only a Trifle Wider - Slashed Ef-j ;, fects the Craze in Paris -Exaggerated L i 1 Collars and Revers Add a Snappy ' ' r ' w ! Touch To Tailored Suits. ' "HE (nnw to any Inquiry anent aklrta irow a tit wider coats are un- ' r :j. ft th dominant feature of Full doubtedly growing lighter. Thla to- . . ... I . . - - : '.,. i: ........ ( . tailored wear for fall muat bo baooo colorod modal la not ilubll awBawaBwwMasMBBManwaBBmaaassBBMsawawawawewaaawM indisputably 'slashed aklrta," but tho skirt has a "slot" Htm aa mJLmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmiM lluhH art juat bow tho grand ehle drmakr oall It, dowa ona aid of Velveteen AQB-lTl for trie rlPSt la Parte and aklrta ara tut away to tha front which auccaata tho laovlt- XlfVlII DaVS OC Aittunin. ahow tho ankla and lnatap, or tf not ablo alaah. Tho ooat la a (ay Uttlo f s J actually alaahad tharo la an arranaa- affair, rathar ahort la tho waiat la . : Skirts Only a Trifle Wider - Slashed Effects Ef-fects the Craze in Paris - Exaggerated Collars and Revers Add a Snappy Touch To Tailored Suits. aklrta grow a bit wider coat ara undoubtedly un-doubtedly growing lighter. Thla to-baooo to-baooo colored model la not alaahad. but tha skirt baa a "slot" aeam aa dreaamaksrs oall It, dowa ona aid of the front which auggeat th laevlt-able laevlt-able slash. Th ooat la a gay llttl affair, rather ahort la tha waiat la the back and with two alotted aeama running down from big brows wood button set at the back of th high walatlln. Thl ault Is llluatratod and It will be noted that the alot aeama are used not only up and dowa but oroaswls on skirt and coat, th transverse Una breaking th long lines with very smart affect. There la a gay Uttle oollar of golden brown silk embroidered embroid-ered in mustard yellow and tha coat haa a lining of mustard yellow aatin, rail TaUos Wear Baa Enwonled Brightness. Many surprising color touches may be looked for this season, for all the world la eolor mad. Mourning ha been dropped la th Engllah court and the talk of the royal vlalt to the Durbar Dur-bar Is bringing everything East Indian In-dian into prominence. . The aew eotora are oriental with th aoft yet wonderfully won-derfully rich and pleasing East Indian In-dian huss, quit different from tho crude yellowa, reds and bluoa of other Oriental countries. la conservative tailored eulta for Brat street wear these East Indian touches will make themselves manl-feat manl-feat la collar and cuff trimmings and rloh llnlnss: but soma of the hand. H answsr to any Inquiry anant A th dominant feature of Fart IV tailored wear for fall muat be tadlaputably flashed skirts." Slash are just aow th grand chlo la Parla aad aklrta are eut away to show th ankla and lnatap, or tf not actually alaahad tharo I aa arrangement arrange-ment of button aad buttonhole or a pleat that suggests the preoene of a (lash for th moment not definitely evident. ' With these alaahad aklrta ara worn aoft silk or pleated chiffon petticoats at contrasting color and a faw Oar-lag Oar-lag ones hava appeared sans petticoat, petti-coat, th ailk stockinged ankle being revealed aa th akirt la moved In walking, it la aot expected, however, that Amarteaa women will take kindly kind-ly to th alaahad akirt. aad though anaay modsla by famous Par la tailors and dressmakers have been brought aver, they have been brought, aa Importers Im-porters and manufacturers admit, aaora to show aew styles la Paris and to Interact Amsrtoaa women thaa m antielpatloa of a vogu for thla aort akirt. Though all the feminine world follows the mandate of Paris more or loss blindly, English womsa long ago made aa exception la the ease of tailored wear aad aet np their wa standards of reorrecrnes and , amartaesa. Engllah tellers of the bettor bet-tor (lass acorn the flippant and freakish freak-ish achievements of tho Wench along thai 11a aad th best dreaaed Amsrtoaa Amsrt-oaa women .and many of th wealthy Preach aad Austria womea pattern their tailored garb aftsr Engllah rather thaa Preach Ideala. long panel sash of tho blue taffeta at front and back. Th hanging panels have proved ao aatlsfactory that they have bsen adopted for winter win-ter use by the designers and tho back panel ha been supplemented with one la front How these swinging panels will look when tho brisk fall winds begin to snatch at them. Is a question, ques-tion, but while one stands still the panels are very graceful aid 't oourse heavy weight will be Used ,to keep th (winging end of fabrlo in position. posi-tion. One of tha prettleat suits Illustrated Illus-trated has one of these front panels. This suit which was mads by an authoritative' New Tork tailor, la of black broadcloth and the llnea are superb, ths skirt hanging without flare and measuring two and three-fourths yards around the bottom and the graceful thirty-Inch coat having a lightly semi-fitted effect at tho back. Tha collar of black and white vslours with outside banda of black velvet la especially graceful and decorative. Fancy Stitching: la Color a Now Trias- mlng Notion. Paquln adore th (winging (kin panel and from this alwaya satisfactory satisfac-tory couturier comes a most attractive attrac-tive little tall ault which haa th coa-servatlsm coa-servatlsm of Engllah Ideala with alt the coquetry and grace of th French. The material I blue mohair a moat aatlafactory fabrlo for the fall tailored suit which must look smart and autumn-like yet muat be worn through the warm day which come In October Octo-ber and early November. The feature I of this suit Is ths stitching, done with ICoronatloa red floss In a heavy chala stitch which looks like coarse embroidery, em-broidery, though, of course, th work Is dons by machine. This heavy ohain stitching In outline effects and shaped motifs promises to be a feature of high class tallorod wear, and when the buttons and satin lining match the stitching In color tho effect la vary smart and knowing Indeed. A suit Intsndsd for wear during ths warm daya of autumn and not meani at all for a winter model, la pictured In the pretty oostumo of silk serge with plaid trimmings of ths same material. ma-terial. The atyle of this llttla suit Is pleasingly youthful and tha llnea ara very graceful, tha coat fitting th figure fig-ure just snough to define It line without emphaalxlng any curves ooa-splcuously. ooa-splcuously. The three-quarter slssva Is used In many of the new models for deml season wear though tho wise womah will not Invest In a ault of thla aort If her purchase must do duty far Into November or December. The more dressy types of tailored wear will no doubt have theee abbreviated aleevea all through the winter, but for general street wear, when one cold weather has set in, th mannish, full length sleeve Is by far tho most satisfactory sat-isfactory and appropriate. Tha ailk aerge suit pictured la In a pretty shade of blue, tho plaid trimmings trim-mings being In ths rich grssn, black and yallow colorlnga of a familiar hootch plaid. Like many of th new suits, the skirt In this model repeats a trimming feature oa the coat: that la. the row of button on tho akirt panel matching th row of similar mailer button on either aid of th back of th coat Tho plaid oollar extend down th front In aquare cornered cor-nered revere, tha coat fastening with cord ornaments which match those on collar and cuffs. , Velveteen and Vein or Suits for Lata Fall Wear. Though th thought of pile fabric I rather oppreasiv the midsummer days, the velvet and valour suits for autumn ara too pretty to be passed over without a word. Th colorings of tho now fabrics of this character are especially rich and beautiful and there Is a dash and youth fulness to many ef th model that will hava a strong appeal, for after actual youth haa passed It Is certain that garments with a aoupeon of gaiety aad youth-fulae youth-fulae do make one look younger and less "settled." A charming velvet suit la brown la Illustrated. The skirt of thl suit haa a tuale falling juat below tho kneee over a petticoat slightly narrower la cot atyle that will appear ap-pear wtth tha drossy tsilored wear ef late tall, according to those who watch i some tailored coetumoa for afternoon wear are very splendid, with deep eollara, eol-lara, contrasting petticoats and even knotted sashes. More of this will appear ap-pear later aad many surprises are j waiting along thla East Indian path which has suddsnly branched off from the mala line of Pashloa's progress from Empire to Restoration styles. A delightful llttl ault designed by Beeohoff David and ordered for a September Sep-tember bride has very little of th "tailored" severity of type but la ao pretty that Ita deeorlptloa mast be tucked In her. The ooat la a gay llttla affair of blue taffsta which opens : low and la fastsnad with black oord loop. There la a deep shawl collar of blue ailk striped with narrow lines being ooquettlshly left unfastened In accordance with th eras for alaahad ffects. Coats Tha Drclae Fig-are lines. ' la contrast with thl picturesquely "maanlah" Poiret suit1 Is another Potret model of tobacco brown serge which reveals ths figure lines more definitely thaa tailored coats have for soms years. Indeed thla seml-ntted effect Is one of th striking features of fall tailored wear, both English and French. The bag Ilk coal ever a plpeetem akirt Is vanishing and as of white aad this silk forms ths straight skirt slashed at the Instep and held togethsr wtth oord loops matching those on the coat The plainness of the skirt la hroksa by a Tailored Wear fee Woaaa More Faaalnlna tn Type. There la more aad more tsadency to get away from the severe, mannish effect la women's tailored garb and thai iaaca many snappy touches la the way of big, graceful eollara. dashing dash-ing cuffs, fancy button and swinging panel or saahee give a sprightly and feminine auggestloa to tho Indispensable Indispen-sable ooat aad akirt ault Paul Poiret It Is true, haa brought out what he I oho esse to oall a "mannish" suit for fall knockabout wear but the moat mannish thing about thla charming llttla suit la Its materia! a black and white checked worsted that la crtap and fresh la pattern and texture. Ths coat la a boxy double breasted affair af-fair falling just te the hlpa aad though oollar and lapels are mannish la style, the style la much exaggerated aad the wtee lapels tura back te a point below be-low the waistline where th coat closes with two big black wood button but-ton with rim of whit. Th button but-ton are matched with mate that ao-ceatnate ao-ceatnate the double breasted efhact aad amallsr buttons of tho same kind are need with black braid loops oa the petal da ef the eloee. mannish sleeve and tha pocket flap. The akirt la perfectly straight though wide seeugh for easy foot movement, aad It la buttoned all the way down one sids of ths front with the large black aad whijs buttons, the lowest button i I . , t fcl , -v ' 1 1 ' i a foundation of tucked black chiffon. Tha tunlo akirt la a feature ef thl ooat and aleo the (lightly shortened sleeve finished wfth a fluffy frill, there being, of course, a corresponding jabot trill set la th front ef the eeat - Part signs and forecasts. This overhanging over-hanging tunie Is a strong East Indian style feature and a very graceful one Into the bargain. The brown velvet ooat la la thirty-Inch length and at trimmed with handsome black braid, a sailor oollar of the braid having aa Inner facing ef black aatin. The frog trimmings are black. With thla ault la wora a blouse of brown ehlffoa embroidered em-broidered with .Una gold thread, the ereaaa laoe yoke aad cellar being So- lahed with a Un -of gold cord. A fetching little ault of saga green cloth shows the bread Corday oollar banging dowa the back aad caught te the ooat Itself aader line ef darker green velvet buttons. The design de-sign of this large cellar la aa effective trimming feature ef the ooat for within tho shaped outer bead ef aage green cloth are band of Persian embroidery em-broidery la shads ef green, rose aad .Jeep blue, these beads being laid ea The Long Chiffon Scart La Cseful for rerloe Occasion. I a |