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Show CtJ It' JmS Mardel-Robcrt Costume. Showing the New Flow. KgH 1 ikL I S 1 M,.v-it.. ,- .. . f ered Overblouse. with Tulle Sleeves. f iflral 1 " f 3fe&5 Hi k i New Bnlkan Costume of Japanese Blue S! Ratine, Designed by Andre Groult. I By Lady Duff-Gordon. V TWFITH tlie Sprlng openings a 1YH tulnG of the past, 1 am minded to tell you about them. Personally I do not earo for tho plaid taffetas, which are so the rage ic E ngland and In tho United States But many of the couturiers are showing show-ing models in which these plaids, very brilliant id tone are combined with plalD dark 69rges or silks. The craze for the RomaD stripes Is m waning In Paris In the surahs they have beeD very lovely, but oo" that they are on sale on the bargain counters. Milady of fashion passes them coldly by The taffeta coat dress and those made of dark bued crepes aDd satins are' very lovely These costumes cos-tumes by no means come tinder the head of tallleurs They are in a dis Mnct class by themselves They can tie worn either with or without a separate blouse tTbe most Interest-ing Interest-ing of these coal dresses have low cut waistcoats and girdles to match Many of the foremost couturiers show a3 wide a diversity Id their sleeves as In their skirts The same house will exhibit elbow sleeves. three-quarter sleeves, long sleeves in the kimono model and the same lengths In the tight coat sleeve. One of the men designers, on the other hand, clings tenaciously to the set-in sleeve, and will not make a gown with the kimono effect Another couturier favors separate coats of plaid silk, a logical sequence to the plaid sport coats of the Winter Win-ter Of the fabrics It Is Impossible to be over-enthusiastic They were never so lovely in texture and color I have spoken of the taffetas, but 1 have said little of their colors The most used are perhaps, black, navy, Japanese blue, russet and sweet pea pink There Is one thJng that 1 want to make clear before closing this little dissertation on "Other People's Fashions ' While I have mentioned man' thlnes which are apparently peculiar to all the Paris couturiers. you must realize that no two creators create the same thing in the same way. For Instance, while a)) may use the long effect In coats or the short, each maker will develop bis ) own model In a way peculiar to himself, him-self, and the careful student of fashion fash-ion realizes at once the touob of the maker For Instance. I see a certain feature feat-ure In a gown, and 1 say at once. "That Is a K ." 1 see the same feature treated in a different man nor. and I say. "That Is an A This Is why there Is ever a great diversity In "Paris fashions." Then my own simple little sweet pea satin frock is just as girlish. I think, and thoroughly wearable." The blue crepe costume has a removable oversklrL which may prove a godsend god-send to some thrifty souls, and tho over-blouse of flowered silk la another an-other "thrlftful" design. with , m$tm felliw I |