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Show MORNING GOWN OF EOSE AND WHITE CHECKED MOHAIR. S Spring Millinery Conceits of Paris k ; i i -i i : -t- : .1 y .t. ? A--lf.t ' PARIS, March 11. Did it over occur to you that you aro better bet-ter looking than your mirror would have you believe? This comfortng theory was advanced tho other day by a smart milliner of the Rue do la Palx who happened to be adjusting ad-justing one of her oprlng chefs d'ocu-vrcs d'ocu-vrcs upon my unlovely . head. "Yes," madame consolingly remarked, "the best mirror ln Paris does not tell the truth, and we ln tho millinery line of business try to get tho very finest mirrors mir-rors to rellcct tho charms of our patrons. pa-trons. We are very particular as to tho becoming appointments of our rooms, for a looking glass Is apt to make the complexion yellower than It really Is. Then I always have my 'trying 'try-ing on' glasses draped with a soft rose material, for a mirror give's back all the colors thrown upon It, and when my lady looks Into a rosily hung glass sho Is at her best. The priestess of good looks as a last crumb of comfort said that wrinkles aro always worse In a mirror than In reality. The reason Is that the light reflected by tho glass Is less than falls on It. and a certain amount of light is lost In the gla3s. Tho mirror," says madame, "adds ten years to your age, and be sure to remember re-member that In a looking glass your face Is less lighted than when a friend looks at the real features." Every right minded Parisian has discarded dis-carded her winter hat and Is squandering squander-ing all her money on stunning millinery. milli-nery. And is thero a more difficult or Important sartorial undertaking than tho choice of a hat? Personally I am usually reduced to a frazzlo and often to an unbecoming chapeau after ono of these expeditions. I really do think, though, the majority of women are not to be congratulated upon their choice of headgear. There Is so much apart from tho dictates of fashion to be considered con-sidered in this selection! Still, if one becomes bold and departs from fashionable fash-ionable laws ln the matter of headgear tho elTcct meets with limited approval. A woman's character, I think, can bo told as accurately by the hat she wears as by the lines In tho palm. of her hand, so be careful of your spring choice, for all who run may read. One word more before I tell you about the smart Parisian hats: Do not let your lovo of amateur effects extend to the realm of millinery, for the woman wo-man with a "pretty tasto for millinery" has been known to ruin many an otherwise oth-erwise charming costume. If you have a certain amount to expend on hats risk It all on one r.eally good example rather than on a lot of hideous caricatures. carica-tures. To buy a cheap hat is folly for the rich and thrice foolishness for the poorest among us. On looking at a collection of French hats ono Is apt to be struck by the eccentricity ec-centricity of them. Indeed, some of the so called chic creations smack of opera bouffe in their exaggerated tilts and t ids. One may not approve of the i , square, high effects at the back of the fetching new hats, but they must acknowledge ac-knowledge that the blending of coloring color-ing seen on the spring chapeau Is very artistic. The picture hat ln the present disposition dispo-sition of things has given way to smaller, small-er, sharper outlines, although the artist who studies her client will cnlargo tho brim when the face demands tho change. To tho majority of women those hats with small brims are more becoming when carried out In dark colors. col-ors. A mighty smart little tip tilter Is of nut brown manllla straw tilted to tho front by an immense bandeau at the back, where there is a trimming of brown ribbon rosettes. Wreathed about the brim and nestling ln brown tulle, are exquisite velvet roses taking In quite twonty shades, from the darkest dark-est brown to tho palest mauve, and embracing em-bracing en routo curious dead tones of old rose and deep purple. Around the almost square crown Is a band of shaded brown and purple chiffon velvet. vel-vet. A most Inelegant name is giyen tho poetic rose of tho season, that of "rot-ton "rot-ton rose." a designation which exactly expresses Its appearance. A famous Paris house Is making tulle a feature of all Its millinery. The little turban toques, either In black or white, are a mass of it, decorated with sequins or Jet cabuchons and waving paradise plumes held by an owl's head. Ono of the prettiest hats I have seen this season sea-son and the nearest approach to a picturesque pic-turesque ono Is of black crlnollno with a shaded brim of wide dimensions. Right across tho back are threo beautiful beau-tiful ostrich feathers. In front there is very little trimming, merely a few bows of black satin ribbon. The wide brim took a slightly upward curve ln front as well as at tho back. Another attractive model of the over the face style is of pastel blue fancy crln maneuvered Into effective undula tions and literally smothered ln blue velvet loops, whllo -around the crown there appear the strangest little clumps of button roses, like cream about a mold, ln mauve, pink, green and blue. On the other hand, talking of freaks reminds me of the much discussed polo toque. Far from this toque's meeting meet-ing with opposition, It is finding the most unexpected appreciation. Carried through in one tono ln somo dainty, fancy straw in dahlia, red or puce, with two smart quills thrust through an ornament or-nament at the left side, tho polo toque becomes a practical piece of hendgcar. The new French sailors are raised to an exaggerated height at the back. A very protty sailor Is of white panama trimmed with a band of orango velvet swathed In brown and white tulle. Somo fantastic bows of brown and white ribbon arranged in puffings aro on tho bandeau at tho bac Hand embroidery will bo applied moro on the lingerie shirt waist of transparent material than on the heavier heav-ier fabrics. These waists are not often "tubbed," and tho beauty of their work is thus Insured. There Is a now cotton called Paris muslin which Is being used hero at the capital, together with whlto organdie, for the dainty thin blouse which buttons in tho back with loops and small pearl or linen buttons. The linen shirts often have a yoke of hand embroidered squares put together with rolled hems. A dainty collar and cuffs of a like design trims tho waist. Theso Bets are very practical, as they may be taken off and carefully laundered. laun-dered. A glance at the summer gowns is a discouraging sight for the homo dressmaker, dress-maker, A certain amount of special skill Is needed, and tho technical elements ele-ments ln both cutting, fitting and finishing fin-ishing off enter more largely Into the matter than formerly. Still, given a pattern chosen with the limitations of the amateur in view, thero is little doubt that the small seamstress may scoro even greater success with the summer frocks than those of yesterday. yester-day. Dimities, lawrfs and organdies may with the aid of tucks, shlrrlngs and laco be made Into the daintiest kinds of summer dresses, and, now that perfectly fitting girdles are mado in all the best shops, a gown's chic is only a question of selecting a becomlrig color. Much in the way of ornamentation io done with plaited satin ribbon, which Is a much newer manipulation than gathering. gath-ering. It is applied In vertical lines, heads wido bands of all over laco and Is curled into all kinds of fanciful shapes. On the linen gowns there Is a new trimming carried out by tapelike linen braid. A design of conventional character char-acter Is, stamped on waist and shirt, and it is a matter of a day or two before be-fore a skilled worker has finished tho pattern and thq, dress Is ready to be mado up. Then the threo tiered skirt offers delightful de-lightful opportunities to the amateur artlsL Embroidered flounces come all ready to fashion Into this popular style. The top ruffle Is softly shirred Into tho waist, and the second and third aro treated ln like manner, one just under the other. This shirring gives the required re-quired flare. For early spring morning morn-ing wear the Parisian will don a costume cos-tume of green and brown tweed, tho skirt shirred Into a yoke at the sides and back,, with a box plait forming the front width. The blouscd coat is a smart affair of stitched plaits, with a neat little turned over collar and bono buttons trimming the slightly surpllced front effect. A rather dressier gown Is of gray cloth, tho Jupe disposed ln softly hanging plaits, the sweeping foot length trimmed about with a looped motif of taffeta silk. The tight fitting basqued coat has a vest of whlto suede and rover lapels of taffeta. The waist Is belted with a wide white suede belt fastened with a dull silver buckle. To talk of less serious matters, Mmc. dc Thebes, the wonderful Parisian clairvoyant. Is now counseling tho wearing for luck of little elephant charms. These luck brlngers aro charming ln silver studded with diamonds dia-monds or in mother-of-pearl with ruby tusks and feet. I saw one rather larger mounted as a parasol handle cut out of a piece of clouded crystal, with sapphire sap-phire eyes and feet and a collar of emeralds. em-eralds. CATHERINE TALBOT. COSTinffE OF TAN LIGHTWEIG-Hl! BROADCLOTH. j 1 |