Show I 1 I 1 i ll 11 it IN SILKS AND VELVETS 1 V I 1 I 1 I 1 jaim in ornamentation and elaboration are the style I 1 1 I PRETTY COLORED YOKES t I 1 fA frills la in ri affery of yellow yell L black and whito white cashmere f silk in fit dull tones of blue bed n e d and peach genuinely artistic rib t bons boas tasteful use usa of them la in r dress green 1 I trimmings bright t r touches tor for belief new and pretty I 1 Slee the spring bonnet 1 l 4 ill ail Trl bunel I 1 new kew york april IT 17 1896 I 1 A I 1 0 many elaborations L are am demanded i in fit silk anil and vel I 1 4 vet jacket bodice I 1 ii that the result Is tho the extreme orna J I 1 t 1 r and its ha t fi I 1 t effect la Is felt even in tailor rigs II 11 I 1 nelch respond by fl 1 i relaxing a bit 0 of 11 1 I 1 1 11 t their h e t r eel ae erity I even the primeste il A f ot of thorn them may have fal instead of the formal IX 1 linen tit at the 9 neck and in tho the s 1 I it h I 1 triangle opening al 9 11 of the coati coat a bib and tucker of 0 cloth formal enough in cut yet of some pretty color that lil Is especially byet I 1 ally bec omiDE A tailor gown of 0 I 1 I 1 demure demur stone colored broadcloth shows t ili buch a yoko yoke beneath of pale pal blue cloth rl and made the blonds blond that wore it look 1 I ax as it if she eho had lipped flipped her brothers brothe eq coat 1 over her own blue blu 1 ija departure from primness in the tailor cut Is prevented ted in the jaunty 1 1 jacket 0 of tho the initial in fitial picture here the J vest la Is severe enough in outline but 1 i 11 it Is composed of 0 white silk as la iq the collar that tops it white I 1 bilk also faces revels reveis and rolling collar or the jackets ack ets tuft Is tan cloth Is lt 1 III pasquo Is piped with the goods and its of fronts fasten with an slit gilt clasp 1 I 1 I 1 A now new finish for the neck that is not 1 I 1 I 1 P F I 1 1 I 1 I 1 ir 1 1 V I 1 1 1 I 1 V 17 Y ii fl ii I 1 I 1 I 1 I 1 I 1 i 0 v hii i i w 1 I 1 I 1 k I 1 I 1 A IG I 1 1 9 e 1 I I 1 t 11 I 1 I 1 1 I 1 1 51 I 1 t ii fj I 1 coming a hundred thousand strong 1 restricted by accompanying severity Is i applied to the fancy capes that thai are il now like many another sort of temptation so plentiful it displays the sudden popularity won for the effects obtained 1 by putting yellow and black on i white whit ind it black laco lace together in many baies the iho lace vw Is not it a rood good quality il the color being all th that it Is demand td ed amazing frills of 0 this fluff ery are alre set inside tho the loose and spreading collars I 1 are of capes tho the frills rising almost to the hat brim at the sides those these garments look lovel lov olyon the then figures eures tit in the window but bul atsa shame botell it those horrid figures havo baxis all been fitted with u etli adjustable necks that Is how ro no matter how full and wonderful the ruche affair about the neck ot of mrs afro wax vex flare la is her peachy face still lifts flower like above it alas w 0 I 1 necks are not b beware e I 1 p from the first pictured cost costumes umes 9 primness to the bighley wrought effects 1 I c of f the seconds Is a long ions edep one that hows in how bold relief the tailor girl il lends this season its not so much in the elaborateness of cut that the dhir diff r 21 ence comet comes us in the materials the I 1 ji silks for or jacket bodices being especially I 1 brilliant that copied here was a each cash 11 JI I 1 i 1 1 p 14 v I 1 1 11 I 1 11 ir e i N a 1 I 0 11 le ar JC r I 1 ill 1 I 1 I 1 4 1 1 g 11 I 1 I 1 k i I 1 I 1 f I 1 I 1 2 I 1 ai I 1 I 1 1 I f I 1 11 1 11 I 1 I 1 I 1 I 1 1 11 I 1 I 1 11 I 1 I 1 s ii ribbon trimming frimml g that I 1 mere silk in dull tones of 0 hue blue read at and peach with a front 0 f blue pleated I 1 I 1 I 1 chiffon added to the bod ace its revers revera formed a square collar in back anil and the folded stock collar rosettes and cuffs I 1 were white taffeta pocket flaps appeared 4 feared on each side of 0 the tiny basque lias due I 1 and nd a series of eight jeweled buttons bu t tons k f were disposed ort on fronts fronta and basque the sleeves hart had laco lace at the V wrists which Is s finish that Is tre fre clr 4 sn ben then too sleeves ot of pretty afternoon grown gowns are at tho the wrists with big ruches 0 of chiffon an n example Is 1 a coat that goes with I 1 almost any skirt and Is of a gray blue smooth cloth ma manewith dewith with smooth skirts ia I 1 at t the th hips slashed that they may lie ike flat and also that they may iny show a il touch of their pretty lining the vest is 1 of puffed white chiffon alternated with delicate lace anil and a chiffon ruche sj S ends end the cloth sleeve wide vlee TWITS rovers of it ii are covered coverer flat with the it lue and a pair of handsome handa ome buttons iara aro set low down on the coat in front I 1 ohla co 0 rt of color malrey tile the I 1 A aumau ael wela with way duj e ta I 1 mixed goods that hos coq in it a trace of 0 blue or gray bray A black skirt 0 of course adapts itself to the coat coal null and a white 1 malro skirt makes the entire costume almost a formal ono one ribbon 3 have this reason received more I 1 than han their heir ordinary share of 0 attention from in tho th designers and the result la Is fro that they have never been so no genuinely artistic never no er fo 4 worthy to genuinely gong be e made pa part or a cw nor or of a quality and style that will last in good bood taste last e aa long lone as the ribbon itself does so 11 1 t to IB not at all remarkable that ribbon a are re conspicuous their use us c as M hat bat trinum ing floes docs more than an any other one on a than thing to lo distinguish and proclaim tho the new spring hatin dress dres brinl mincia they open up a new and wide held field of 0 tasteful adornment the novel use us e ribbon input la tut to in the next picture la is but bit 11 one 0 of a great many that are po possible isible so many in fact that every woman with any degree decree of 0 ingenuity in her makeup make up hould have a bodice that is if distinct from botu rotu all others and let in perfect taste and style tills this model was wag made of mile ito I 1 vest brink being 0 of white batiste striped with insertion and the turned down collar ot of whit satin finished with it a tie of 0 persian ribbon narrower persian ribbon trimmed the fronts as far as tile side scams the top in back bach and front and the cuffs and three perpendicular strips of it showed at each side or of tile the skirts front breadth at the top tiny gold buttons were put at the end ot of each A silk skirt match lne the reach peach shade 0 of the jacket accompanied it with ribbon made maae conspicuous in such handsome new dresses as this it me may y therefore be considered a leittl legitimate factor in making over it la Is bif 11 3 I 1 I 1 4 IA 11 f A r I 1 11 11 I 1 I 1 N I 1 11 11 1 11 I 1 I 1 I 1 I 1 I 1 I 1 1 I 1 I 1 I 1 I 1 I 1 1 sleeves that show gaslight a slight change a very handy one collar and belts of 0 taffeta ribbon have not lost their charm or their novelty it remain hue ibue also that a t trash fresh taffeta libbon collar with a crisp bow at the back while not expensive nor a wonder of a novelty since wo ve have been this sort 0 of thing three seasons does docs impart general freshness to an old gown cown present taste permits too that the accessories of 0 a gown shall dominate the dress it becomes possible then to put on an elaborate belt a highly wrought collar a pair ot of shoulder knots a frill rill it at tile tho wrists and a bow somewhere on oil tho the skirt and all these aro are nhat give charat character ter to the sown gown so ao the fact act that in itself it 11 is old or inexpensive hardly counts bright lettuce green Is wed used in little touches with any other color just as cerise and turquoise blue have been in their time there la Is something especially suitable in this pale fresh green just now it seems to spring like besides it Is surprisingly becoming to almost all complexions completions complex ions when it quite suit your color then perhaps somo some other thadeos thade of green will do it so use tt it for green in most all of 0 its shades Is a very fashionable color in tho the fourth sketch which iw I w of a dress of gray cheviot tho the green Is dark and a appears in tte the velvet bolero tills this Is a finished with a wide bias fold of 0 white cloth ns gray sou tache ornamentation with turn doan blonn collar to match the bodice n D stock collar of the cheviot the sleeves form points over the hands and to the clow bow are somewhat loose thin and semitransparent semi transparent goods for summer dresses fl will exaggerate this loo looseness senes e and be made into sleeves that wrinkle brinki a from tho the elbow down A new and pretty sleeve tor for evening dresses looks from tho the front and back 4 I 1 I 1 4 4 I 1 I 1 I 1 I 1 1 1 f r at g li g 1 V I 1 V 1 I I 1 I 1 rr A I 1 0 it il MN 11 24 1 s bull 1 I J I 1 I 1 11 it IW R V 0 oli h Y 1 11 I 1 W 2 i W 1 1 1 ft a 1 4 TI I 1 I 1 I 1 I 1 t I 1 e A type of simple wash gown like tho the usual single putt puff but really alde there t bere iere are arc two puffs arranged on oil either side of the aim abin the arm itself being bare from wrist to over tho the sho shoulder uldra a light flight row of 0 rhinestones ping passing over the shoulder eh and connecting the puns puffs this sleeve la Is a clever transition from the big putt puff to the ilia natural line sli lec and while bowing the beautiful lights and folds of an evening material will wil 1 display 11 KI and a arm rm outline gloves to the elbow or a little higher are worn with tho the low puffed sleeves of an afternoon or theater dress but it is 13 nut not permitted to draw the glove over the sleeves as a was allowed when long gloves cloves were last the ram rage those thosa who can afford it are putting a wealth of detoll detail on their summer dreF dressed sed whole bodices being fashioned from a series of tiny chinon chifalo n duffings puff nga ings alternating alu with insertion and little frills fri of narrow lace bands ot of baby ribbon being byln sometimes added A b becoming softness of effect results but there are lots of stitches to bo be taken it Is all very well it if you take them yourself or are blessed with a maid but to attempt to match with your pocket this sort of thing to buy such a town ready made or to ti order it from some bom swagger dressmaker means that well it if you can steep sleep the he night after after fter you ought to or what an ordinarily poor woman thinks all this mean that simple wash dresses are arc not to bo be acceptable and there will doubtless be a plenty of at the sive alve and pretty dresses or oc which tho the final illustration depicts the type it is made from red dotted linen its ita moderately wide skirt being left belt untrimmed the cha blouse blous u waist hooks invisibly at side Is affife back end anil front has haa it deep uro yoke of 0 Is embroidered in broi dered it linen n ou ald ana square a stock collar oi 0 red satin ribbon skirts of 0 wash dresses are ara not 0 6 o full tf as those worn tor for the past two 1 a seasons dreddy skirts eliat are sax t yards around are not entirely discarded and the a ekert art that nt fit close about ithe the hips except at a t the very back and itami clial below belon tile tho lips falls alls into folds which bt at thu back bach come from roin the iha bolt bell iare are still indeed the woman iwho who finds such auch a skirt lends her bew it ond Is not likely to give lve i up just becal be faira lost Ild vIces irom some omo fashionable center say bay that skirts four yards around aro are the latest copyright W |