Show NEW YORK FASHIONS BY EDITH RAYMOND New York Dec Dee 7 The return of stripes in the choicest fabrics prepared for tor winter was a surprise to many who had looked for tor a reign of ot plain ma materials materials materials after the long use of checked and striped ones Even the broadcloths are by lines or checks or plaids and from them through the whole range of tine line weaves to chiffon and other transparent tex textures textures textures tures striped effects are apparent One of the most m t stunning at a recent exhibition of walking suits was of ot broadcloth In two shades of mulberry red The skirt was cut on the bias with a narrow front panel cut with the stripes going horizontally The coat was on the bias with a waistcoat effect of vertical stripes The effect was good goodA A great many waistcoat effects are In iri evidence among the new Cretonne Ms is the material for some of ot the smartest men Such suits are to be found among the In the suit departments When spring comes the fad will have a run that will amount to a craze before the season is over Buttons trim everything and are important details in many of the hand handsomest handsomest handsomest The tunic skirt is gaining a prominent prominent prominent I nent foothold and the question that t at interests the th dressmakers makers and their their cli clients clients clients Is what duration will its style sus sustain sustain sustain tain It comes back regularly bidding for tor favor about once in so often but this time it has reached the status of ofa a vogue though not a universal one The inter fashions favor the multitude for this very reason There are a host of or fads instead of Q one or two fixed ones one Sleeves may be long or short skirts may be double or not and with a few features of the present mode consid considered considered considered ered anything that is becoming goes Shoulders for the moment droop a good deal but it would be well for the wo woman woman woman man who is making gowns that are to togo togo togo go through the season to take the mid middle midI middle dle dIe course and not go to the extreme I styles are responsible re for forthe forthe forthe the present shoulder droop and they are somewhat in the balance notwithstanding not notwithstanding with withstanding standing their pretty pr tty general favorit favoritism favoritIsm favoritIsm ism It is doubtful if they will live until spring The chasuble coat which sprang up for the most exclusive garments In Paris last spring is here In fur It Is the familiar ecclesiastical shape shapo with long straight fronts and open sides 60 to far it Is out only in gar garments garments garments ments but there is evidently a strenuous strenuous strenuous ous future before the name if not the orthodox shape for the model Is undoubtedly un undoubtedly undoubtedlY doomed to have many plays made upon it before its vogue wanes The kimono sleeve undertaken tenta tentatively tentatively tentatively six months ago won such favor favorin in high places that in spite of its too general use It has come back in the models sent to our shores as representatives representatives representatives of ot fall taU styles of the best French makers There is considerable modification as asa asa asa a rule the big armhole rimmed In one way or another being its shibboleth in inmost inmost most cases It Is possible to give a last years waist this style sometimes by very simple means A pale gray voile volle I for example being made over now has a graceful arrangement of ot folds of the material and satin of at the same shade with a band of at net braided with sou tache This is put on the waist to out outline outline outline line a big armhole The braided net band Is also pale pille gray Over cloth or silk the net foundation is la scarcely seen and many women are using them in instead Instead Instead stead of paying Baying the high prices de demanded demanded demanded by dressmakers for braiding with sou tache which goes under the head of embroidery with a correspond corresponding ing charge for the work The sleeve Ieee that comes out from the big armhole from which we have di digressed dIgressed digressed gressed Is of at the voile volle and lace with a band of the braided net for tor a finish Long sleeves wrinkled their entire length and coming over the tho back of the hand are arc here They are as a arule arule arule rule of at gauze or lace and match the yoke of the gown while an upper sleeve mote more or less lesa brief is of material like the bodice or its trimming There are areno areno areno no end of double sleeve shapes The ways of at such sleeves are so many as to defy particularization some of the up upper upper upper per sleeves being mere caps and bands Vast quantities o of needlework are lav upon the costliest gowns gowns this fall Plain straight coats over light airy skirts are the very ver latest thing The Themore Themore Themore more such a mans coat the better and the darker the coat and lighter the skirt the more pronounced the effect ard and satisfactory to the ultra taste It Is a recent whim to wear a boutonniere with such coats quite after atter the masculine fashion The sou tache manufacturer is hav having having having ing his Innings Everything has come his way wa Coats are sometimes literally incrusted all over with the little braid braidI skirts cannot be trimmed too lavishly I with It and as s to the bodice It can take on as much and still be in order as its surface will permit In some coats the cloth is scarcely visible Isible Other braids too are used u d profusely The Spanish cloak promises to be I heard from pretty loudly loudl during the coming searon One of ot the kind a ver veritable verItable veritable mantilla that will be seen later Is Ig of ot black Spanish lace over silver sliver tissue tissue sue s e The cloak is made mado to two deep I flounces of the lace that round down downIn 1 In the back in ill the old way Ya A deep and I Iver very ver full hood at the back is of black chiffon over ovar ov r the silver tissue It Is lined with a very rich and elaborate embroidery in old silks and gold A sil silver silver silver ver tassel ends the hood |