Show INNS OF ONE DISH Bits of Cookery That Hade Certain London Taverns Famous I London Mail Scarcely therepneamong the regular i regu-lar frequenters Fleet street who has i not gone through the experience at I some time or other of being stopped h i > i a stranger with a request for information I informa-tion as to the whereabouts ofthe I Cheshire Cheese Where the famous pudding is served usually adds the in 1 tcrlocutor so that there may be no mistake It is not many years since practically j every London tavern with an pretensions preten-sions at all had its own special dish j upon whose excellence it prided itself j and to partake of which people often i traveled considerable distances Eel pies for instance were once the great I feature of the duelists breakfasts r I served at the old Sluice House near I Finsbury park the necessary quantity j of fish being regularly dredged up from I j the stream that used to run under the I windows The pies can still he had but the eels are now obtained from a fishmonger I fish-monger who carries on business lnan adjoining thoroughfare I Dating back to about the same period are the oyster patties for which Rules in Maiden Lane is still famous while not far away in the Strand is Simp sons noted for its fish dinners These latter l were quite an institution in days gone by and even now there are to be found certain oldfashioned bonvivants who swear by them The guest pays a certain fixed sum ana eats as much fish of asmany different varieties as he mat care for k 1 < The Daniel Lambert has been cele l brated for its tripe suppers almost from time immemorial and up till Quite re I cently brown stout served in tankards J I used to be the only correct accompany ring I beverage Tf 1 b r i f V t The Ship dnd Turtle in Leadefchall street is noted for three thingsits turtle soup Its turbot and its Maderia The first named is prepared after a recipe re-cipe which has been in the possession of the hosts of the house for over a cen tury The only portions of the fish usedit appears are the calipee tHe calipash and the fins These are stewed together for some time in a specially prepared stock and the result is a peculiar pe-culiar gelatinous green liquor which tastes of nothln in particular t To this foundation is added however at different times and in varying proportions pro-portions allspice marjoram thyme whole pepper salt green basil rue flour butter parsley a few small shal lots half a bottle of Maderia the juice of a large lemon and a stick of mace with the result that a basin of thefin ished preparation is something to be supremely thankful for Both the Cock and the Rainbow pride tnemseives on their chops It should be borne in mind however that the former hostlery is by no means identical identi-cal with the tavern Immortalized by Tennyson in the Will Waterproof The particular house stood in fact on I the opposite side of the street and was of far less pretentious proportions Besides its chops the Rainbow boasts of a special dish in the shape of a saddle of real southdown mutton which is wheeled up to the diner on a little movable table in order that that individual may be able to direct the carvers attention to the particular titbits and slices he most fancies |