Show THE CITY OF PEACE All Old Mexican Town Seldom Seen by Strangers IT WAS DISCOVERED BY CORTEZ Another of anY 1 Wards Delightful Letters Let-ters From the Simmy lands of Greaser and Mescal LA PAZ 1 C MEXICO Special correspondence corres-pondence ot THE HERALD You may search the encyclopaedia of universal knowledge and the gazeteers of the world oven tho histories and geographies without finding anythiugof LaPaz beyond the bare fact that it is THE CAPITAL OF J5AJA CALIFORNIA and is located on the gulf side of the peninsula penin-sula near its southern end facing an lu mensobay which is also called La Paz The spot was first looked upon by European Euro-pean eyes just 353 years ago when a ship under orders from Hernan Cortcz came sailing into the bay Cortezhimself came here a few months afterwards pursuing his explorations up the gulf that for nearly three centuries bore his name and having anchored and looked about him and been duly impressed by tho same unspeakable calm that prevails today he dubbed both sea and shore La Paz the Peace Onchundred and seventyfive years later in 1710 the place was visited by another famous character Alexander Selkirk then sailing master of the Dover one Noodes Rogers fleet who on his way from the island of Juan Fernandez was compelled t lay here some weeks for repairs t his shipAfter After Cortez came A HOST or MISSIONARIES and in the wake of the missionaries followed fol-lowed a number of Spanish expeditions and the efforts of both toward christianiza ton and colonization were mainly confined to this vicinity probably on account of the gold in the near by Cralbo island and the richness of the pearl fisberieshereabouts English expeditions also came to various points the earlier ones for the express purposo of capturing richlyladen SpanIsh Span-Ish galleons on their voyage from Manilla fleons voyag to Mecin and in later years for geological and scientific purposes The first mission established in either California was that of Our Lady of Toreto founded in 1C97 on the gulf side of the peninsula in latitude 29 degrees 3o minutes by Father Jose Marie Salvatierra There were several others near the same coast notably those known a Dolores del Sur San Francisco de Vigge and Santa Rosalia do Molige Bv the way between San Jose del Cabo md La Paz lies the town of Toreto which was tho ancient capital of the two Cai fornias Upper and Lower and tho place where the first mission was founded The site was badly chosen as from time t time portions of it were destroyed or CAnniED AWAT sir WATER so that now all that remains of it is the Mission church and its adjoining buildings The old time sanctuary is very quaint and still kept in tolerable repair It is a large structure of solid stone with arched roof and dome at one end In it are some remarkable i paintings remarkably ugly and queer orament that are not in the least ornamental orna-mental being musty and rusty with age and neglect Its altar and baptismal font however are worthy of notice being of pure alabaster in exceedingly graceful design de-sign signApproached from the sea through a narrow nar-row and somewhat dangerous channel La Paz springing suddenly into view looks so I like tho city of a dream that it is hard to believe ones self awake Its low white walls which later close inspection show to be of muchplastered adobe gleaming like purest marble in the setting sun overshadowed by stately tamarind trees and groups of towering palms and seeming to rise directly out of the ocean remind me strongly of oriental cities a few domes and spires adding the illusion tho calm cool water of the foreground fore-ground dotted with myriads of small white wings belonging to the pearl fishers I run CHEAT GUN fired on deck that shook the ship like an I aspen in the wind instantly collected 1 crowd on the wharf for the arrival of a vessel in sleepy La Paz is an event of importance im-portance Boat were put out at once the foremost group each floating the Mexican flag bringing the health and customs officers the American consul and the comundanto of the port No trouble is experienced ex-perienced here by foreigners whether they count ou business or pleasure so long as they themselves seem disposed to do the fair thing for L Paz has the reputation of having the most accommodrting officials as well us the most hospitable people and the prettiest ladles in all Mexico I ever a name was exactly fitted to a town it is to this of the City of Peace which seems to be in an eternal dream Its population is something over six thousand butthough the capital of 1 extensive territory of a great republic it is literally separated from the outer world having neither railway telegraph or telephone communication with any other point and only to be reached by some rarely passing steamers Being the seat of territorial government it numbers among its citizens a FKW FAMILIES OP WEALTH and has by far the best society of any city Mexico of Lower California i not in all ester As we mounted the low broad steps of the stonepiled pier after a short row from ship to shore the sun had some time l disappeared dis-appeared behindthe mountains which were rec fast fading from purple t shadowy gray and the cocoa palms were throwing fantastic fan-tastic effigies of themselves upon the tranquil bay There is an upper and lower town the city having been built on a slope rising gradually from theSe the-Se to the uearbj mountains the latter rising range above range higher and higherwith now and then a solitary peak sharply outlined against the cloudless skies of endless summer From these heights a most magnificent view may be obtained of tho Gulf of California and the adjacent islands The climate is unsurpassed the thermometer never rising above 70 degrees and the nights being cool and pleasant The streets of La Paz though tortuous AlI WONDERFULLY CLEAN well shaded by palm tamarind and orange I trees The pavements are rough and narrow nar-row being merely a protection to the houses from passing wheels if there were I any Nobody walks on them however but always iu tho ankledeep and fleain I fested sand The houses are all of the same pattern or rather of two patterns I those of tho better classes being of one story adobe with grated windows built around the central patio which is always a bower of beauty while the poor and lowly abide in straw thatched huts each with its range of olive or tamarind trees and embowered em-bowered in flowers There is a garrison gar-rison soldiers here and the governor lives 5n a fine house in the midst of a beautiful garden The reservoir is in the middle of a flourishing orange grovegand is owned by a private individual who values it at S10000 aad want to sell it to the town but the town feels too poor t buy it La Paz is not so prosperous as in former days many of its younger a d more ambitious citizehs having left for newer fields Many have long been out of employment since some of the mines and other industries of the past have been abandoned DTUi AMERICAN CONSUL Mr James Viosca though ot Spanish parentage and for many years I resident of this coast is a native American born in Louisiana He is a remarkably handsome gentleman a little past middle age with stronglymarked oface full of force and character dark eyes piercing but kindly and hair just touched with gray Escorted by the consul and the captain your correspondent I corre-spondent proceeded to the lovely home of the former through the dusty streets of the city of peoce which in the fading twilight twi-light looked more than ever like the city of t a de I imagine 1 high wall overgrown over-grown flowing verdure and overtopped by palms a gate in the wall unlocked pas gt wal unloced by the consul with a key from his pocket which when opened heralded our arrival by tinkling bells odors of tropical fruits and flowers intensified by falling dew beauty and fragrance everywhere 1 graveled pathway hedged by roses leading t the veranda which half surrounds the inner court that encloses 1 fountain and garden This veranda long wide and nv deep as a town hall rambles away down the other wing of the casa past the dining rooms and kitchens that portion nearest the main entrance being really an immense OCTOFDOOnS DKAWINOKOOM furnished with luxurious couches and rookers tables scattered about shelves of books hero and there statues and brackets flowers in bowls in baskets and pitchers the whole softly lighted by rssccolored shaded candalebra and tall lap producing produc-ing an indescribably bcautf effect combined com-bined with the fragrance and the sweet night air ar The Senor Vrosia a tall and stately lady with a face a strong and striking asher her husbands expressing capacity for in tenderest emotions of love or hate rage or grief softened by true goodness of heart and a calm and happy life came to welcome us with charming cordiality expressed inn musical Spanish for this lady Sainn English The children who were educated in the best schools of the United States aro gone from the homenest a the most tenderly guarded fledglings must in time the daughters to their husbands homes and the sons t business in the great world all except ex-cept the youngest a lovely girl of possibly twenty years who has resided much with relatives in San Francisco and speaks English a perfectly as you or me There is A WONDERFUL CHARM about the aristocratic Mexican male or femae which no calm phegmatic Amen can over possessed or can acquire Possibly Possi-bly it comes partly from their numerical rarity and because from generation to gen eton they have ruled the inferior masses by the power very properly given by su perior wealth refinement and education There is something of the warm suns and rich vintage of the tropics in their veins and their gentle courtesy and dignified gaze are a unconscious heritage The Senorito Viosea is an exceedingly fair represents of the ultra best society of the two Califor nias the perfected flower of a race of of rulers Dinner was not long over in tho Viosea household but soon supper was announced for the guests and we went down the flowery veranda to a dining room opening from it Upon the daintily appointed table there was turkey with amole famales fresh and steaming and other dishes characteristically Mexican served with claret and later with coffee and cigarettes for those who desired Then we rambled about the gardens which though located THE IIEAlT 01 AN OLD CITY are very extensive There were orange and lemon trees showing the perpetual wonder of buds blossoms and fruitage green and perfected all on one branch there were all the fruits of the tropic and temperate zones roses galore and flowers unnumbered in variety and quantity there were fountains foun-tains and bowers and grottos and statues and in the midst of this programme and progmme beauty was a little house by itself containing con-taining only a luxuriously furnished parlor and an inner museum of curios t wnich the master of the manse could retire retre when marred by th cares of the world or any member of the family might such rest and seclusion There were turtledoves turtle-doves cooing in the trees birds of mankind man-kind both free and confined and various varous pets including a droll monkey chained to a treeAfterwards Afterwards we made tour of the house which is one of the most delightful I have ever seen with a wide hall running straight through the middle from veranda to veranda and large airy rooms exquisitely furnished Wherever the eye rested indoors 01 out there was something taste t delight the most cultivated T ILESr Tie sENSES I and rest the tired soul Upon the walls I there were priceless paintings some of I them of the early Spanish school having I been taken from the now ruined mission churches books in all languages flowers everywhere and an elegant grand piano upon which the Senorita is an accomplished musician There was to be a ball that night in the house of a married daughter of the Vioscas and though in travelling attire your correspondent cor-respondent could not resist the urgent invitation invi-tation to at least look in upon it tonThgUghlt moonlighted streets again to another enchanted lasa whose entrance was blocked by a crowd 3 commoner com-moner who had collected as usual to take innocent delight in wathch lug the doings of the great folk of their little world There was a lovely and graceful hosliss beautifully dressed senoras seno-ras and senoritas gallant cabUlorcs and as a matter of course the finest music Tho latter goes without saying for in common with all Latin races these His panoAmericans ARC NATURAL MUSICIAN I was La Danza Mexicana the most slow graceful and dreamy dance in the world just suited to warm climates affording af-fording ample scope for lovemaking and conversation Ices cakes and champagne circulated freely in the pauses and toward midnight a singular game was played with shells in which all participated The beautiful inner courtyard had been floored for the occasion the boards covered with canvas In most of these aristocratic arstocrtc houses in which frequent balls are given a moveable flooring is kept which the servants there being always a great many can put down or takeaway take-away at an hours notice Chairs were ranged around the sides of this patto rose and orange trees bloomed over head a fountain murmured in the centre amid its embankment of lilies and violets and the whole was beautifully illuminated by softlycolored lights When we finally sought the landing in the fragrant hours ayant the twal the old town asleep in a stillness like death looked more than ever like a city in a picture a glorified city its thatched huts and whitewalled casas and distant mountains and nearby palms all silvered by the moon and bathed in calm and mellow radience The cathedral towers dominating all as Gods temple should rose in gloomy grandeur above human habitations as of old the Acropolis with a solemnity that chilled in the silence of night Like halfconscious somnambulists we climbed down the stairs of the pier and into a waiting rowboat and here quickly conveyed over the billowy stretch between shore and ship whose ladder we ascended still in a dream FANNIK B WAUD |