Show MAKING A HOUSE DRESS I Practical Directions for the Fashioning of this Garment HOUSE DRESS that is sim simA A yet not vot commonplace is certain of instant favor Much to be preferred to a shirt wa wait t ant skirt is the dress that com corn combine bins bine waist and skirt into one garment arment by a uniting belt There is is the sim simplicity simplicity sim both in making and laundering of a wrapper with the smart trimness of a dress Two or three good dresses and a couple of allover aprons will equip the housewife with most suitable morning wear and find her always pre prepared prepared prepared pared to see or be seen by anyone The allover apron is a great protecting the dress in dishwashing or any work where water splashes or dust flies so that the two practically constitute constitute constitute tute a kitchen regalia Any washable material is suitable sui able Danish cloth will vill willbe willbe be a good god selection for winter if you do not want to wear cotton print all the year round Gingham percale or any of the printed wash fabrics may be used for Jor summer Quantity Required Of material 36 inches wide 64 yards are arc required to cut the dress in medium size In cutting from material mate ial 36 inches wide two gores may be cut from one width of the goods Select a material which has no decided pat pattern pattern pattern tern and double it by laying haying the two cut ends together Spread it out smoothly on the cutting table and pin the pattern on Place the wide vide end of one gore and I the narrow end of the other toward the cut ends of the cloth The back and gores are cut at one time two of each in this way There are seven gores in this skirt two backs two two side fronts front and one front At the left side of the allowance of material is is made for a lengthwise tuck that laps Japs I over the The is made ct rt s this seam The right and left gores are cut alike except that the gore for Jor the left side is about one inch wider than the gore for the right side Judging the Side Balance For convenience a pattern portion is provided for each of the gores but one only is to be cut of each The center front is indicated on the front gore by bya a line of perforations which in cutting must follow a straight lengthwise thread of the fabric Always mark the center front line on a skirt with a visible line of thread threads of some contrasting color ta taking taking taking king long basting stitches Almost everyone has some unevenness of hips requiring the skirt to be raised a trifle at the waistline on either one side or orthe orthe orthe the other The at the cen shows very quickly which side needs to be raised and how much When the line hangs perfectly straight from waist to then you know that the side balance bal nce is cor correct correct correct The waist wast is Js in three portions only the back and the right and The laps over the left in correspondence with the skirt but is shaped to give some variety to the clos cbs A line of perforations indi indicates indicates i cates the on the pattern and the portion of the waist should be cut without the overlapping over overlapping overlapping lapping shaped edge but of an inch must m t be allowed allo ed beyond the th line Ime to which to seam the of the When you are ready to apply this facing after the waist has fitted you may sim simply simply simply ply face the t e edge with a straight strip about an ap iJ inch mch and md wIde I It will then be necessary to stay the buttons when you ou sew them on A bet better better better ter way is to lap the over the left with the mark on both even and anG trace on the the outline edge edg of the right then make the facing in that shape Finish it a seam smaller that the overlapping right side may inay may conceal the stitching that holds the inner edge of the facing to the waist racing facing Fa ing the Overlap neck to the diagonal upper line of the overlap the facing is cut straight and but one ne inch wide On the a facing exactly the shape of the overlap and wide enough to reach a seams width past the center front line is is stitched to the front the right sides of the fabric of front and facing together After the is stitched turn under the facing and stitch the edges The buttonholes are areto areto areto to be worked in this side The position of the buttons is determined by again lapping the over the left I with the lines t even and marking with a pin through each but buttonhole buttonhole buttonhole about of an inch from its front edge The matter of facings and buttonholes really comes a little later in the work after the tucks are made and the seams finished Arranging tho the Tucks The perforations that mark the sew sewing sewing sewing ing lines of the tucks should be b marked on the material with pencil chalk or pin when it is cut ut and before the pattern is removed Go o over these marks with tailors tacks then cut the threads reads th and separate the pieces Stitch the shout before stitching the Ithe tucks but if you are not certain about the fit of cf the waist whether It t will need any I alteration at the it will be 1 safer to baste both and in this case it if will simplify the worl work to baste the tucks first Bring together the matching tail tailors tailors taiLors ors tacks and baste along the sewing line they indicate Prepare the belt This too is trimmed away on the left end leaving the right longer to lap over at the lefthand closing cl sing Baste the underarm and shoulder houlder seams gather the lower edge of the waist at the between the tucks and on each front portion from the points indicated on the pattern by perforations Baste the belt to the waist with the three notches in the edge of the belt matching the three notches in the front portions Try on the waist Pin the lines together and note any needed alteration If te t e require change if the figure is a little the waist may require to be drawn up a little at atthe atthe atthe the shoulders pin the new seam very carefully Pitting Fitting the Shoulders i Take off the waist and mark the new line on both the front and back portions Open the basting of the tucks far enough down to permit sewing a new The tuck tuckI I extends across the shoulder after the seam is made and if you look at the of the pattern you will vill see that the line across the tucks is a little irregular not absolutely straight Be careful to preserve a similar line linein linein linein in the new seam indicated by br the care careful careful careful ful pinning and tracing of 0 the new This shaping gives the necessary spring to the of the tuck where it crosses the shoulder and prevents its drawing or binding Stitch the then stitch I Ithe the tucks Cut a lining for the belt I from some strong lining material or un unbleached unbleached i bleached muslin Baste it to the seam I joining the waist to the belt placing the against the waist so the waist edges are between the edge of the belt and its lining The Dutch Collar Collu If the Dutch collar is to be used cut two of both the collar and the Seam the outside edges edg s of the collar together do not stitch on I I i I the neck edge with the right sides of ol the material of both After stitching turn the collar and its facing and make one or two rows of machine stitching around the turned edge Now baste the collar into the top of the col in the same manner that the waist was basted between the two belt portions the on one side of the of the collar the col cob on the other side Match the notches in the band to those in the collar Stitch this seam continuing the stitch stitching ing along on the ends of the band that extend beyond the th collar to provide the necessary lap at the center front Baste the lower edge of the to the i of the waist Turn under a seam on the lower Jower edge of the tIme collar and baste it to the waist neck From the outside of the waist make a row of stitching entirely around the Work a buttonhole in each end for a stud or collar button finishing the Skirt Baste a tuck at the left side of the front breadth of the skirt and at make a slash into the and md turn the seam under making the tuck into a hem the depth of the placket Face the corre corresponding corresponding corresponding edge of the side gore Stitch the seams of the skirt and at the back ba k make a plait at each side of oi the seam according to the perforations and the directions on the pattern label Baste the upper edge ede of oi the skirt to the lower edge of the belt Be careful to have the and of both even The lefthand end of the belt will wilt ex cx extend extend tend beyond the edge of the because it 5 is i attached to the waist as far as the Try Tryon Tryon on the dress and note the fitting of the skirt The belt is supposed to dip a lit tit little tittle littie tle tie at the the perforations on its pattern marking the actual waist waistline waistline waistline line If the skirt requires any altera alteration alteration alteration tion make it if not stitch the seams I Turn under a seam on the free edge of the belt facing baste it in place and make a row of stitching from the outside out outside outside side completely around the belt in the same manner hs as s on the Work Worl W rl button holes on the left side of I the th and sew buttons on the The fastening of cf both waist and skirt may be made with hooks and eyes and buttons and simu simulated simulated button holes sewed on the over overlapping overlapping overlapping lapping edges |