Show Jv i 0 cc p ir I 7 7 7 1 ea I z 4 A A 1 f sv rt Is ft Try VS YIP IVI im i mE x xi i J tt A L i iL Insist il fi e 1 v r SZ o iN Gra Gray y yf S Se 9 Work W or J N Needs eed I IV f I Ir Cloth r V l i V 1 i z r y yr rl r V 0 J r i 1 d o FA Jj I Y j t Do we not need needa a little 1 of gayety in t tt color and design t i i 1 Ma May not even evert simple R t. t I clot clothes Les be beautifully y Ati r bright and i iA f f i t V j jS S i n r r i ito f S to p r I It j c 1 Costume of r Z Zan f. f an Ancient Ancien y l d rl Jar Ja t I r 1 l. l ti Japanese Queen By Elizabeth V Van an Benthuysen en u sen r I HE HL Japanese womans woman's philosophy of or war and THE I the application of or the fashions and of or dress I to the times when fighting brings distress is BO so utterly at variance with her sisters of or America that one may profitably listen to the ideas of or orI Mme Kimura I I upon the psychology o of women's clothing and the dress problem during the period I o of shot and shell Mme Kimura Iimura has been in this country two years y years arB She has kept her r her eyo eye on home land landof t of or cherry blossoms with the tho intelligent ent understanding understanding under under- standing of or one who was reared during the period when men were coming front from the tho war with Russia Rus nus sia a and md the ancient sword and shield of or her native land were were- grieving over the fact that the long long- range weapons of ot the tho Occident had elbowed them aside for the tho more moro deadly tools of ot races that kill t by br tho the rules of or mathematics I L say that her ideas f are curiously at variance I i with the thoughts of or her occidental sisters Bisters forr for r i has not Paris banned evening dress during the wear ar and are aro not prominent women in London Loudon t appealing fora foIa dress censor to curb such butter butter- files flies files as still persist In soaring upon resplendent wings up Cheer Clothes But says Mme Dime Kimura Is it not true that t In dreadful times o of war we need aced what I you call cheering up Do po we not need Deed a little of or gayety 1 iu lu color and design May not even simple I le clothes z b be beautifully bright and fascinating I She Sho is not to b be consoled by our theories of ot severity or grayness In the tho of or way o direct answer answel every ery American woman will find her own point of or view Meanwhile Mme Kimura exhibits a pleasant enthusiasm f for tor or certain historically interesting treasures It is a a. quaint and remarkable wardrobe that Mme Kimura has brought from her native land and she has her people add to it from time to time so she can array herself hersel by turns in the quaint character dresses of or Nippon Ono One of many the most striking of or these costumes is made to sent the ancient Japanese in armor and war fit fit- tings It is copied from that time that antedates ante ante- dates dales the coming of or Commodore Perr Perry and tho the opening o of or Japan to intercourse with the world U When tho the world is lighting fighting says Mme I Kl- Kl l S mura and the tho people are sad women should seek I t t 1 f r i y i it t t r t I 4 tU t. t 1 i Ai I i J v r 11 r tit r h I j v tr If 4 T I r I d 4 i- i 6 yS I t- t color schemes and and try to keep the picture lust Just bright as can be beIt bo It Is a shining colorful a and III I spectacle spec spectacle ladle that she presents in her warrior costume The helmet has great prongs before it that might terrorize a heathen f foe e but hut would surely get caught caught in gin In the barbed wire of or a latter day battlefield just lust as Absalom was as caught by his hair in a certain wood The costume costume Is held by br a flowing sash of or the old zouave pattern In to this sash a wicked knife is stuck The costume has a 3 lot of or snap and dash to It t with enough color to keep away the blues even cn with the dreaded sword that makes a part of the outfit outfit out out- fit uplifted in threatening fashion The transition from a queen or to a queen from a warrior is rather bold but in her next costume Mme Kimura appears in a wonderful creation that was worn by the tho ancient queens of ot Nippon l' What appears to be a train effect Is Ise really given by a pair of or full flowing red trousers t that hat hang for Cor a n yard or two below the tiny feet The rhe wearer must walk with the feet at a point that would be about the tho J knees of or ordinary trou trou- oars sers and the effect that results is that 9 pt a woman i J. J I 7 f I s r Showing the NJ r y Spectacular Armored Suit of an Ancient Japanese s Warrior t II c v-V- v Indeed that was the tho approaching on ou her knees original purpose of the dress to the even even- evening effect There Therl is a really reay striking ing Ins dress of the Japanese Samurai n that forms form another another an other of stunning Cunning collection from Mme Ime i Ii Kimura's home h me A blue and f purple creation 0 It ItI I Is with heavily plaited skirt and a Boulder shoulder cape 1 The he hat has a garland of flowers In front and Its side elevation looks very much like lIko a small smal boat blat with a ery very large sail san The stockings are of or heavy white linen formed fanned like Wee mittens and fastened with clasps just as modern gloves are held Color in the Dance In the dancing costume I doubt very much whether one will see first the rich dress or the tho cunning great too that the dancer has turned up Uti quite independent of or the others This is considered considered consid ere ered a great point in Japanese dancing technique S but there are few occidentals accidentals accustomed to our brand of or shoes who will ever be bC able ablo to counterfeit counterfeit counter counter- r feit lt this element clement of the graceful ar art The dress Is la of black and anel gold with a n heavy gold fringe The decorations on the bend head dress of or her lier next creation are arc Int Intended to represent ht a lions lion's head Service fierce 1915 tau 1918 paper Kimura K- K J ur a I t i r a in 3 That in r r c Hours the is Id IdIs i d Sadly Sadly Jr I Is ls s Cheer Up lies leSe y rf I 1 S 9 r 1 1 p U 6 b 7 S I yf r t y S 'S C v h mT 32 M r 1 f j i P.- P. M iJ 4 JB K TR 9 a r 1 w I f s f 1 1 1 r rj r f a G 1 j Gay I in Black and Gold GoldWorn U 1 AS ASand S. S r s' s W Worn oni in ina a k Japanese Dance and antI the tho costume as a whole is made to show how howa a a. Japanese countr countryman man dresses when he lie is coming comIng com com- ing to town for a holiday hoBday It is the custom of ot the yokel population in the Mikado's land to go goon goon on ou New Years Year's to a big town and it Is just such sucha a suit as itS this that the man from the rice nerd field affects when he goes on his annual lark The suit Is of or light yellow with black plaid Tho The headdress head headdress headdress dress is of or red and tho the shoes are rainy day in t type pe Just h by way of or contrast contrat with the peasant Mme Kimura has also a dress that was designed by the ancient princes or the empire It Ja in called a The Lions Lion Head Costume worn at a aNew aNew New Year Celebration classic drama costume and the hand painted hand drop curtain thing at the back is called a skirt It look looks j much more like the advertisement that a sand sandwick jj wick man ratan might bear alon along the streets of or a an American city cHy The rhe base of f the dress fires is grass gras grass green with red rib ribbons ons run ran through the sleeves sleeve i and a lot of rich embroidery The shoes l Ilk lik k those of the peasant are arc rainy day Id Bright Colors for Gray Hours I These make up the tue type o of dresses in whIch the quaint little woman from front the far east attires attire herself when she wants some relief from the dull dul thoughts of or a a. fighting age In the color glitter and the sheen of ot the creations sho she gets the sor sort of or mental rest that serves to keep her In a pleasing world no nog matter what the headlines may say o othe or of the evil doings of the tho Hun and the ravages ES o of war var famine Camille and aud want There is after aCter all aU no good way to la lay down own a law for women's clothing and the attitude of or th the the Parisian London tend find American oman woman as ti to J what should bo be worn in war wear is governed to some extent by the lie more serious part that women have taken in tho the present conflict Japanese women have havo not as yet felt the tho call of or the khaki and they the cling to the colorful regardless of oC the necessity that makes the men adopt something that dotS does not make too recognizable a mark against earth or sky il At rate It Is 1 an any picturesque and fanciful and offers a pleasant plea for the tho pleasure of ot the eye ee I |