Show r h. h Copyright 1011 by Examiner American 1 Great Britain Rights h hr y A D. D DT ress as' as Th T h ey D. D 0 of A R Lady Duff Gordon Duff With Exaggeration Exaggeration-A am he lie Art o Exaggeration Exaggeration- n by hy i I r hT eS as the Model o e I oJ J J 1 f r Y jq p 1 M rat a M N ar Y 1 1 tI Lucile 1 of London and forcy forc- forc r i r t r-ALu r ADY GORDON DUFF the famous y most cr creator Bator of fa fashions in n tic tc w world writes 1 each week tho the fash- fash r e l 3 y i article for til this ls 1 newspaper presenting all nIl that is newest and best hest u r r I c styles for well dressed women omen I Lady Lads Duff Gordons new Paris establishment brings bring'S her in into o close eloC tr t 1 r nv X i r n. n f a tJ 4 t ch cb in with ith that center of fashion r j dv Duff Gordon's Gordon s American establishment is is s at T o 17 west sr tb street New T York Tork or- or k City COt 1 J I h exaggerated is artistic and self- self I express her T This action though u S f fy l tir I t 1 ix I t r t zv t m The pl of is emphasized by r this sir point JAt t rn v ry sa r I 4 r arrangement lf i ty f J ri r l X in v au rf 4 3 1 r y her ty f fi full 9 1 4 v vi gown Ii 1 r h 3 T h n b e Fu fX and ti hat y d. d y J r wy p k S r 1 fi a f r w a e s rv h yr A R L M f S h i. i t tS lv rrt 3 ci j y ie la S' S Sf r S e. e d t J tf v-j v N f 6 t. t r. r t f r Y j s SY oS r rC 1 v it w f Y r e 4 ti f A u R vJ 7 y C 9 A A al ti y va F rat s. s Jf 1 t r a 4 z y f A V ri c r Ji 1 k r 1 v rS i. i Y f. f A Y Y M Y t r. r y if a wL td x 3 y r 4 r a i t a tf l' l Y rY a v 4 k o r hL 4 i-b i t r t f R t v L r e r r a Y a a ti e A i r y I 1 i t r A c y i r 9 rb 3 A ant er l eer Sr re Y r r t y r L r I Sit Sita S. y Gordon rf-Gordon a t r Ik K The e wheels or of sorrow are turned by fools fools i T I Ifor for or a woman to be bo stupid In dr dress ss Js is Is ar ah s n I J I J uck ck Is 1 s only a SI perfect harmony t l with aIth 1 life Le Ie V- V J C Dare lare are to be bo individual but but beware be eccentricity i r j t It you you have a charm underscore It the It-the the WorM n ors d Is lt 1 ant v t P Dont Don't put your our soul in a uniform s ti lont DOnt be atU stupid Ids ti 1 V t t tr j j UV Ui LADY I GORDON e THERE E Is a aCme fine ar art t In exaggeration II tion In dress Just as there Is a Uno art of oC exaggeration In paint paint- In literature and even evens In concU con- con cl cU ct It is the trick of ot bringing out H lights The hl high h lights are aree aree e e or le less the interesting things of at I in con conduct when It Is fully or Interestingly done wo we call when it Is IR somewhat cx- cx e wp lye call it eccentricity when it tried tarried to excess s or doesn't fit tit the tho thon thea ron n a essaying It it h is just yer very ver very pleasant Exactly tho the same rule ap- ap to dress ke e over every other thing thing- In life lire coned coned con- con Jed ed with tho the hl high h lights must must bo be skillfully and thought thought- ly Y 7 tone none to bo be effective cUve As an aris- aris atio taste It ll runs Its dangers Don Done im or stupidly It is worse orso orson n a ineffective It is ls Just stupid Whine thing in tho the world ord ig is worse than nothing IH It Is stupidity that causes BO so man many ones orres The Tise wheels or sorrow are med Breed by fools Cools Stupidity not Fate buses uaea most mot of oC tho the failures in ln this rid And It Is stupidity that causes caules many women to dress dreas so badly Women ev less cven less n-less than alga cn 1 ran afford an n stupid to be stupid I have often otten heard women say sa disparagingly dis dis- disparagingly Why Shy h she t U tike like an fl actress And And Andl 1 have herd perfectly ll estimable wom women n both l i America and England exclaim h do actresses dress as they do I wo would id like to answer anser bo both 1 these thc exclamations And so MO while whilo this article article ar ar- will be a bit oC off the ilie usual fashIon fash- fash Ion Ian article In reality It will deal with one of oC the very causes of C fashion and andI I really feel It ft should be written Women omen are arc of oC four sorts sortA There arc the few tew who really know now themselves an and who know ho how to dress so o as s to bring out ever every good point and nd ob obscure obscure obscure ob- ob each cacti bad one There Thre are many who ho want to dress dregs well and who gratefully place themselves In tho the of ot those who really know how to dress them There aro are the tho immensely im- im Immensely Im many man more moro who follow lilts like sheep tho the prevailing mode whether Its it s suits them or not And there Is the tho class who In their heart would like to sc see seo all women dressed In one plain ve garb arb These are the la ladies ladles la- la dies o or of tho the uniformed sou sous s. s Now 0 actresses almost always exaggerate gerato erato In their Jo gowns In Paris what I Is s e called tho the fashion is set ct by br about I r r IfF rr r r an A S ar P S J S 1 x 4 i G. G y Ar J a t i Yh rl to r f YI rr R 4 t t x 3 wi jt Ak r iG Yf y st rf t. r l' l f 7 Ye f t t 1 d. d 9 y sty A 3 y ra i r 11 The The feathers are arc rc soft clinging and dainty So is Gaby 1 1 twenty actresses Monna Ionna Delza the beauty Who I Is destined to tal taku o the place lilace yf Vt Ll of or the tragic lc death Is one 1 1 I have just jUit dr dressed Norma Jonna Delza Velza and soon I 1 hope to show you pU Gab Gaby Deslys as another moth r Th The Parisi- Parisi cnn cane goes to the tho theatre 3 as she goes to a n house o of fashions She studies she sho criticises she analyzes She seen seeM the gowns in n movement nt She Sho picks s what sho ste wants modifies what Is not harmonious to her nor accepts accept the spirit spirito o of the gowns she sees seen to ll tier her r needs I And that Is right 1 If she slavishly cop cop- then es-then then that Is stupid Now Nov on th the stage sta-c a n. woman wom moves move's in a strong stron light The glare of at the the footlights hl the rays from flom the wings ali all j b beat at on her cr r. r And in front are many eyes concentrated upon her Xo No o actress actress ac ac- ac- ac tress tres could ego go o upon the tho stage singe without maJ makeup eup The Tho lips must bo be re redder der tho the cheeks cheol s. s rouged the eYes darkened the tho arm arms and nock neck whitened Similarly the voice Is raised above the ordinary pitch movements mo are aro accentuated The rhe r very action of oC tho play Is an exaggeration Lito In It i is underscored emphasized The ulless the thc la laborious laborious laborious la- la up to the great movements movements move move- m ments aro arc subordinated d or left out Itis It Itis is the old rani rambling 1 ng three decked novel of ot o our r childhood condensed into the short stor story It Jt should have in In ever every bit of oC it what one o oo your American newspapermen told me mo I 1 ou ought ht to got et etIn In o er every dross dress ss lie called It the Dunch As I Interpret It It the tho punch punch- should be bo quick tIU without too much preliminary pre pre- and not and not to pun pun striking from the start The punch as I soe see it Is Iii an artistic exaggeration of ot tho the push Tho Tiro punch ho Ise told mo me al always always al- al ways tile the punch and always effective In proportion of ot its force The punch la is In its essence dramatic A series of at hood good punches make malce up lip a push that cl cannot not ho withstood ns us long long- longas as the punches are capable Napoleon r he told me was a rI puncher The Tho re result result result re- re sult of ot Napoleons Napoleon's punches was tho the push of ot tho too empire All great men have o had hul the 11 pum-h. pum 11 It Is behind every great greal mo movement ment TAft Lift Is a push Tho stage tage Is la apu si a L pu punch ch Just as th the stron strong points of life have bave bato to be exec n Crated for 01 pres pres- on th the so an actress as has to dross dress her strong points poInt to ac accentuate ac- ac thorn thom Just Juat as ae her eyes her liar cheeks her lips are made brighter than nature makes them so the combinations of ot colors in dress are more daring darlng Just as her actions her words are ac- ac so must the lines JInes of her nor be accentuated exaggerated I When she sho is off ott stage a part part-Of that life of at hers clings to our Ima imaginations We Ve s goo e her always more of at the ac actress actress actress ac- ac tress less of oC the tho woman And so 80 sho is to harmonize with this visualization visualization of at ours and still accentuate her dress even though she sho be driving along the Bols Dols the tho Mall or the Ave Ave- Avenue nue Here Hera are three there e pictures of or Gab Gaby of at tho Lilies Gaby knows that pearls aro arc harmonious with her beauty that t the they ey express her It is an exa exaggeration exaggeration Sern I tion llon for tor a a. woman to hold up up up- strands of ot peals and peer through them as she Is doing In most women it would babad be ba bad ta taste taste te But Gaby is an actress and can do this naturally See how in this cleverly elI posed picture tho the gems and the woman harmonize The exaggerated exaggerated action calls attention to the harman har liar man mony Tho The pearls are only an adjunct but the they strengthen herAnd her And so another woman not of ot the stage but to whom pearls are a a. personal personal per per- expression should stud study a modified mod mod- accentuation o of them either cither In their arran arrangement ement or their shape and get et their full fuJI value That Is what I II I call artistic exaggeration A Again aln note nota the picture with the feather muff mutt and wraps There seems to he be a 3 vcr very great deal Ilea of or feathers and vcr very of oC G Gaby b It is iR an Yet tho ho whole effect Is to bring out the tho essential charms of oC her They frame Interpret and suggest The feathers cathers are arc soft sort and clinging ln and lux lux- ux- ux urious Pond find dainty All of at these attrIbutes they suggest and each of at o. o these thes attributes are Gab Gabys e This Is I says the the piquant taco face of or Gaby 9 What hat asks asks the imagination Answer the feathers leathers We We Soft cling ing luxurious dainty Do you see That Is Js the process Why of ot course course answers answer the imagination That is s Just what she should wear It is ls the personal expression you see Tho The wraps are not simply something something some some- thing to put on They express tho the wearer nearer And so 50 another r woman might study her charms and adapt this feature fea tea ture turo to herself Always remembering that she sho Is of tho the outside life lite and that about her does not cling the Idea Iden of ot the footlights and so 80 her exaggeration tion must not bo boo so eo great Look at this picture of at Delza Dela S Sea a 8 how the tho piquancy of her taco face la is Is underscored underscored underscored un un- by the arrangement of ot points poInt in her costume In tho the lifted skirt With what I have written surely you OU can i work out Its philosophy n now w yourselves your- your yourI I I selves selves and and I hope nope learn from it lt Gaby b by the wa way does not wear near corsets Her Hr own own model Is one atthe of at the tho statue shapes that I originated and cling cling- to and that has since been adopted everywhere She wears no petticoats at all all using using- tights to match the costume and to the knees only onh i I In any woman that Is in all nil that in is I j I neceSS necessary and the difference it makes In a a. gown own Is enormous Dare to be bo individual Individual but but beware of at eccentricity j j If It you OU have a charm underscore it ft i J the tho world Is singularly rv- rv ant Dont Don't put your soul in a uniform Dont Don't slavishly follow Collow the mode I create ere your our own on mode node Dont Don't bo be one of at a n. multitude multitude multitude-be be on one on In a n. multitude |