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Show LATENT FARI 3 . FA5HION5 V- Costumes in Varied Coloring. BY MRS. A. T. ASHMORE. TIIE number of street gowns that are requln-d for the winter season sea-son by tbe woman who takes any prominent position In tin- cia! world Is this season mcro than ever discouraging to the woman herself, who unless she be possessed of a positive mania for clothes hates to spend no much time nt her dressmaker's. Rut l-Vshion demand a variety of dress and her demands must he complied with, and at this time of year when It might have( been thought the clothes Question wan virtually settled as many orders are being given for thi additional street gowns as though the season were not yet begun. The Telvet costume, so marked a feature feat-ure of this winter's styles, continues to epcnffh to suit even the most extravagant. In black such a costume is considered smartest, but baring one black costume dees not in aDy way obviate the necessity for other costumes fif the same deHcrip-tlon, deHcrip-tlon, only perhaps more elaborate. Bloc in all shades, brown, tan, gray, red, yellow, yel-low, each and all In velvet are effective end smart. The colored velvets are, mm a rub?, made up much more elaborately trimmed with embroidery and braiding and with for, but they ura tio smarter be it well understood. The satin costume was so exceedingly popular last summer that Jong before the winter there were many rumors heard that satin would not be fashionable fashion-able at all this winter, and, aDj-way, that ' ;- . 7 Bllilillllfc Elue Satin Tailor Gown Mllj30I1 DrecoU rhoto Copyright. 1011, by Reutllngor V . K Kxcluaive CcnjrlsUt, 1911, Xtn York Ikrall 3 . Mil I rrCj " " ' - fcr-iK't h " 1 . BreJwchwantz jacket and Velvet Gown :iW'"te..U f sZf rbot0 CoP'cbt. lflll, by Reatlinser v': t ;V; : ' y-.M:'-, A-V S77 Exclusive CopyrlchU 10 a New York Lie raid not menn the elnbornfe pnwn worn ndr the loti loose coat, but tlif rmvi Ihif loohs well with the short fur jacket. The broadtail or b.fl.y Iamb j;Kkn in very smart, fanciful in ibsin and trimmed quite elaborately with in.iid and buttons. There need not be nuy fur on the sirJ: nt the saui time a band of it lool.s well, but the gown is supposed to be complete In itself, and the fur jacket Is merely the outer K.-irment or wrap worn with it. So soft find beautiful are the niarkiuas of the fur thnt it looks like ;i pi?ce of moire. Over velvet it is charming and rather linker in appearance than with the cloth, but a smart black cloth town is always a desirable Mddition t the wardrobe. Striped Velvet Gowns. The striped velvets that are fashionable fashion-able this winter have not as yot become too popular, as it was feared they might, and there are a number of -very smart eostnnirs rondo of the material. I'.lack or an extremely dark blue or brown with lh. hair line of white is chosen, and there-are there-are some patterns where the hue is not white but the -,hik? color ns the rest of the material, but is in satin, which makes a contrast, and a charmingly effective ulie. This winter the yokes in nil gowns are 5v V-a .t'5-. -f-'--l I CrCC?f Silk,Cl0th C0Stum n,e,o CeWriCbt. iou, h,-ruiiinm Sf :CV. V'; ''Vir-CcC- ; : M' A WZ " bolI-DaT'J Exclusive Copycat. 10U. Now York IJeraM v Velvet Costume A l Mioo fire-cull Photo Copyright. 1011. b, KeutUo Cxclu,,ve Upyricht. 1911. Kew York Lm.J rhoto Copyrlgtt. 1011, by RcoUlaKw I Excluwvc CopyrighUOll, Htw r0rk.UcraLl '- PI pi li - T the plain, untrimm.-d coat aii'Kskirt style finds many admirers, who contend thai the sepunto furs are all that is necessary neces-sary to the costume mid that worn without with-out them biter it is complete. These touches of economy always- seem a trilb1 inconsistent with such expensive gowns, but apart from the economical siaud-, siaud-, point the gown is ivajly quite as attractive. attrac-tive. Cloth is always a satisfactory niatcrij mits of the most fascinating colorlni;. with a lining that can be either plain or 'Insured; the upper part of the skirt, bring of the transparent fabric, shows the lining jmost effectively. I Just a touch of white or bright color jas facing or edge works wonders in a Sown that is tocj sombre in hue. ltlack icspeciilly needs this to relieve it and jmake it becoming. A clever way of ac-iCi'UJpliobing ac-iCi'UJpliobing this result is the trimming with bands or folds of velvet of a dark .color or black with just an edge of the i.olor or white, then an edge ngaiu showing show-ing on the rovers or collar of the coat The objection sometimes made to this style is that it looks rather "patchy" and is ineffective, and thero is a certaiu amount of reason In the criticism. If so desired tin- edge can be omitted from any bands or folds on the skirt, but on the waist uud coat they are invariably effective, ef-fective, i ,ive. Bands of fur also serve to inak Ja gown smart und effective. With the old lining and trimming and the miuimuiij of material that is necessary for a suinrt evening gown and the Services of a clever drcssmuker in the house for two or uf tbe most threo days, a charming gowi-may gowi-may be evolved, far smarter than a last yenrn creation remodelled. The cloth, of gold tissue with colors in the clothes question well worked out contends con-tends that this is not a season when it p:i.vs to make over old clothes. With so lit I Widely Varying Models. It is Interesting this season to note how utterly different are many of the fashionsquite fash-ionsquite contradictory it would seem. There are most charming gowns without I a particle of trimming. One favorite luiodel for an evening gown ii of satin uitliont even lace in the sleeves, and another an-other equally popular is of satin entirely irnvrred With n tunic or overdress of white 'tissue with the tissue almost hidden under ( its embroidery of crystal beads inter- persed with lace medallions, the p.ittcruj in each medallion outlined ia rhinestones. i Nothing more dissimilar than, these two Stln nnd Lccc Conn. inneh smaller than last year that is the white yoke and collar; the waist is cut out in much the same fushu.u as list .year, but is not filled in with white, black cliifion or net over white or color, cloth of gold or silver, lace covering it almost to the line of the collar Itself. This is more (practical when dark fura re worn, but is ot nearly 6o becoming, and the white ,stoclc collar and some white in the yoke almost invariably have to be added The Dutch necks are also too trying for the great majority to attempt, and the sheer! cit of net collars and narrow round yokes ure far smarter. mm i . mm Black Velvet Own wlUi VoDrtlaa Uce collar ' wlm be worn for all occasions; the skirt short, Ihe waist simple in design but with, a Kbtit of gold or silver showing through t, 'g; iy--M S3 !be yoke or opper part of waist and ilecres; a short jacket or long coat, either fur, fe:lbl? KIld .0,wa's J'audsome .ura-thc compos, the costume, which I spite of its sunplieity can be expens v. it was a material not suitable for 6treet wear In cold weather. The heavy wool back satin is, however, u material quite impossible excepting in cold weather, und any number of black satin costumes arc at this moment being made, while they are also to be seen worn by the smartest people. Fur as a rnmniing is by far the best, but, just as in the summer styles, . ' Si Blu.-. CblCon Go.vn. gowns, t'Oth designed for the same wouian, could be imugined, and yet iu the lines they arc alike. In afternoon and street gowns these same curious contradictious contra-dictious exist, and after all it is a relief not to have everything on the same order, To illustrate the truism that the ex ceptin proves the rule, a woman who is considered one of the best gowned matrons in .cw York society ordered this winter seven street gowns, all of the same style-, and eight evening gowns, all th.. same but in different colors, and yet there are many women who spend time, 'trength and money withont stint in the ffort to secure variety in their dres. Cloth and velvet gown, worn with fur jackets a. v.- smart this seasou. This docs PRACTICAL DRESS HINTS There is so much remodelling of dress Decessury this season that the tendency is to spend far more monev than would! ,be believed in the doing over of last win-jters win-jters gowns. At first glance the problem of making over tho wide skirts inro the absurdly mrtTow ones now fashionable seems comparatively siccPb. but the Msk .kmcnds Bkill ori.j p:l(i,.noe. ar.d It is really far better to recti t the skirt entirely entire-ly in many int.inces rather than to attempt at-tempt to take it in at the various seams. An extremely practical womau who hat olic nl Sitlu Gjn-n f..r the &rjtb. for many reasons, and the different colors) und textures this season are extremely!' beautiful. The satin tinUh and. newer till. tho so-called silk finish, are mar- ellomsJy soft and effective and tho ma-J terial can l? so depended upon to inake'i up well, to be draped or fitted to por-li fection. It is this widter combinud -with'i velvet and with satin or heavily trimmed with fur, and under all circumstances is I smart. Black is the one exception. fr'i whilo there are many .harming black L-owns and costumes the light eolors have the presence. A good combination i.' ;oile de soic, cluth aud fur, auj il,i3 lJCT. j bttle material as is required in the fashionable fash-ionable gown it is better to buy all new. and a remnant of me tjjperb fabric sold' at a bargain will make a far smnrter garment, gar-ment, while the time taken to make iic new one 1;K, lk;ln La,f vLn i cutting and making WT o tUv Ui(j!, coniinie. OIJ trimming-, ran ! f.,; .,l(.r ,;,. ued, for Iniuiiiixij;,, arc tcr..y CA1.L jiirwoven and a band of plain hi'ffon or :it:u itj.-.ke ii m,..st effectively, and J j-".iirh through remnants w ill iIis.Joi ,-j fe treasures. |