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Show lane Winter if ' ilf lUSpl! Silver Embroidered White., y ..V-j 5 - ; l Libeny Satin Cown 'V'-V ", -i duelvc Cp)'r!bt, 1010, New York i";'h'y , tv... ,-;,-.vVX -X' Ermine Trimmed Lace and Satin Gown r$ ''.-.-.. ..v--.u c':-'r;i y' V;'f:v;---ri'.' 'i,-;;.i.-1 DkcUhmvc Coijriilu. 1'JlV. New York ''iiJ: iHJKvS ' Purole Velvet Gown ('f ;'.w'-VVJft.37 S't, '17'.-, f ; Kxoluiivc OijOTiRlit. .New Vork 3V MRS. A. T. ASHMORE. i u HIS i(':ison spt'cial ntlominn its, IKiii! Id t ho rcfxptwn pownfl nnl I lu llif t lif.n I rr fiiil rostnurant j powiiM, nnd nlrrnly tln-rc nro cx- liihilfil many diflVrmt models,) whifli nlmnsf without cxroplion nro f.v.'Trpmfly njlrnclive. Novohy is dr-m.-mdoD in the ki-iht1 stylo ns well as in thi comliinnTiniif. "f rt,nr nn'l inaleri:il. nnil frirtiinntnly iiovolty durs not inrnn. as It too ofton ilops. fo-onf rii ify. On IIip roiifrnry. lb ni'wo.vt niodols nio far tnoro consi'rvnriro thnn nny liorotofnro dis- Ouc r the 11)111 ko l f.-ainrfs of Ihc tlif-atn tlif-atn ami ri'St.iiirnnl sown is i In-- fur und rclvct trimmin.c used with lnre Htid chiffon. chif-fon. Thoro in sniiii'thiiit dolijrht fully in-conznious in-conznious .nh.nit fur and In no that is al-i ways attractive, and as tln-y arc now i combined it is really almost irrosistildc. ' White Rowns hnvc not h.-i-n loo r' I r j of lite that in, the nil white frowns Imt I Riid3cnly tli. I'.ivi- hi cii re.tniTil to favor ao'd Dow, tr! n.i.-d with fur. ircferally R.'ilde or iTiiiini. 'hst'.ni'd to rective unirersnl npjirovjil. lace roniliincd with chiffon or ni-t ritnincd with! hands of ennim1 is smart mid p(Toctivc, i . while voih dc soio cnihroidcrcil with silk and also with bands of ermine is most he-coming. he-coming. The fashion for short skirts continues to bo decreed, and even the most expen-itve expen-itve materials are made in this style, ut that the fashion will last is not to be :oo strongly relied upin. 1 Iressmukrrs have reached a marvellous proficiency in their art, when they enn turn out sh.-rt skirted gowns made on pur-h becoming linos as nrc to be si-en to-day, but the smartest short !kirt ever made lacks the! grace anil charm of one that bas n train, tven tbutigh it be uierelr n short one. I I Fur Trimmed Flounces. j Flounced skirts of lac' anil chiffon nrej on the old picture onl.T. vith n narrow; edp.? of ermine bending -nclt llonnce. nndj the long coat is edgid with ennine 'oj match. The body of the frown, cout and ekirt is of the cliilTon or voile do soio. while the flounces are of luce or in Home instnnoos the entire gown is of hue .irnl the flounces, an- edged with plea tings oT fine net. l"bo ermine bands, in contrast! with the hi'.e and not. .show up most of-1 foctively. but if a still greater contrast is desired s ible or sifil-kin is substituted I for rhe errnino. j The fnNhfon of wo.iring low out gownil at the rf-staurant nnil 1 heat re is nni-J verbally ae.-t-pted as rorrect. but th re are' many -onsi-rvntive imlindonlK who slilll prefer the gowns ith the t '-a npa rent yoke and eolhir. TIoto is no difference' in the innt'Tial imr indeed in the general! nylo. only That in pl.wo of the low nock j iiiid short sleeves, exaggeratedly hluirt,, there is the transparent i : t or hnest Lire covering for neck and arms. J,ae andj innnve is sometimes used in preference to black, but the latter is really smarter, and ihis is a season when black and white effoctare tremendously popular. Driped effects are easily ohtainM with these soft liiiish cloths, and an endless rnriity is tti be noticed in the different ; models. It is a mistnko to attempt the loo classical draperies, they are not practical, prac-tical, and in fact nre not becoming to the average woman mid are most diill-lci;lt diill-lci;lt to attain to. Xot one drossimiker in a hiindrecl understands the Art ofjbecom-ling ofjbecom-ling draperies, and when rIio nttc-hipts to I drape a modern ligure with the classicnl j draperies copied from some encient piece I of statuary the result is nUist ludicrous. I To begin with, there must be a perfect titling lining, a lie the lining must be honed inosl can fully; over this the material ma-terial is to he draped, but the lines mils follow and indicate distinctly the lints of the wearer of the gown. There are several mod'-ls displayed where the folds of drapery hang loose from the shoulders j.ind the waist line is completely hidden j under a tunic effect. This is too eccentric i to he atlempted. but it has to be recorded pk one of the autumn styles. A far more lattrartive model has folds thut ure ! crossed over both on the front and hack of the wu-ist and thou fall to the hern, but the malerial is so crossed that the waij't li;ie is not hidden, nor nre the hues of tbo ligure completely ruined wu-sm:ii xm.M) ?. :-yy. w r. . - - ' ----4 i mmtf ':) " ','- '.1 . . ( . . u d ! Liberty Satin and Lace Gown I Photo Copyright. lStn. Sv Itciituncr ; EicluKi- Copyright. rlO. New York lleralii artists in their profession, refuse to be daurted by the n,...h ls 1 1 : f ;ip' so pro- iionnceil : r 1 ntric and so rnlirfly at ari:iini- with goid lnsH', and siicceeil in tniiiiii.' out sni.iri, heioiuing and grace-fiii grace-fiii -.owes Mint hear the hallmark of the .latest design, without a silicic bl-ilis of too ..nit .1 skip, lot hiirh a waistbatiil or too l.ivish :hi Miiiounl of t rimming. Tin- velvet gowns this winter are to bo e'.ttcine'y smart and origin il. The smarl-il smarl-il are ri'iua i l.a bly simple in ib'sign. r.ither on the order of those worn for the Velvet GowrJwith Lace Collar and Satin Sash j)) Eiclusivf (.oji.vrlibt, KUw. Xcw York A M jtl.is scMsoii ma.'e up most elaborately. It! (is not the ai:n- lily as is used for thej street I'esliinio. is lighter in weight nud is I lattraciive--oiiihined with satin or velvet. I "ashmere dc soio or silk cashmere is the most fashionable vf all. and in an odd j shade of grc'ii. Xiitlinr blue nnd n duil, wood color is in f ront demand. Then black I I is made up in most eflcrtivo fashion com-' ibinod with (:ri or .ream luce, while if. "ay wiih around lb.- waist, and the lines '"f ihc skirt, bciii' il if straight up and down, e;iV(. ., ,.u.(-i ,,f sleiiderues.s that lil..ki's ('Veil a stout person look well. ( bisciriaiiug are (he new cdorv in velvet, iiu blue, purple, dust brown, creen und red. and not only iu chiffon velvet, but in the best iiia!ities of velveteen and duroy. That a M-lvet gown should be iucbuled in the winter ontlitjs ipiite ei Ideiit. From an ccoiioiiih ,il sin ndpoiut j there is nothing mmv pntolicit, for thel 'sown iu itself is apjirojjriate for roivp. j 'tii'ii or theatre, and with coat to match is the smartest of street costumes. . downs for afternoon anJ evenim? madj oi sill, cbi!i meaning the soft finish j which is so heooniiii and elTectivc arvj of line and to some elusive quality of in-! divhln.'ility. When thi'ro ure bunds of; embroidery'' or embroidered Uiuic- und( sevcrily plain ;ns are hard lo und r stand until the beauty of line is realised. Just tit the mom-iil it must he admit!. lth.it beauty of line i" not so videni a j usual, but the best dressmakers, the W I 1 TAItiR KCIT WITH BfACK SATIN COUj-rt. i mMk l-.t.ni sk ur- ( tttifiiN' ri.niit. I fi f r.c.w .sF.it.,K Tftoxrutri rnocK. - P i i ! Ttjorrotr. t im k in iiiiti r.i.i:K scutitc. j (pi "ill 1 J Hl-Ai K vi.i.i;r ruMfMR. ,v . A- IJlgp i: TAL'l'E TAII'U CUSTLitU. j v :.-' I LLLU M.l.i. Il T.UUijK si' IT. Th band around the boltom of tJi-skiit tJi-skiit is to remain in fashion for a while longer, but its width is dependent entirely upon what Is becoming to each indiviJuiiL It may be so wide as to half cover t'11' skirt or it may lm so narrow as to look almost lil.. n turned over hem. OJJ'.v enough, two bands ure not nearly so pf' fective us the oue even if ,niy of narrow width, and tin; wide baud does lol cut the lines .f the figure if put on properly and if it is narrower than the upper of the skirt. Tliis is not to recommend the exaggeratedly tied' in t-kirt, which could never be made becoming, ouly to indicate how the fashion can be oarrk'l out in such a uiodiUei degree ns to insure its popularity for a time and to mark i contrast to Ihc plain straight skirt of l1 wiutcr. xfitin. voile de soio nnd satin finished cloth all those and other materials as veil arc used in the theatre gown, while il is a question to be decided by ihe individual in-dividual whether lln'ie Khali be a lot of elaborate trimming or merely plain draped folds. The woman who does not know ihc dress of the present day caniiot understand under-stand why sueh high prices are often asked for tin gown of silk or satin width has little or im trinimng but which owes it. charm and l le entirely to iu bcautt Inst few seasons b eiy young sirls. The J skiit is shoit enough lo clear the gr id, gathered into the waist band and with broad band iiroiilld the lower part of the si. lit. The waist, with some lit t lo fulness, ful-ness, is joined to the skirt under a cord-iii-' or piping of velvet. A 'lk or .sjitin .bolt with lon sash ends and a wide la-o collar aud cutis completes the only trim-; trim-; mine. In d-scription it may seem a though a gathered velvet skirl would be clumsy and unhivouilng to tin- figure, but bo it i-i'im 'inhered that I ho skirt, while not s.-unl, is out so narrow thai there not -neb a lui of material lo be made 1 a light color is preferred there are litrhterj shades of the colors already luCnl ioned I or one of the- many iliiTeieiii tones of) white. The oyster white, which bas thej grayish lo'n', is very smart, und this Isji -o','o0dorod its gray", and :.lso has touches' of black to give the so popular note ofji contrast. A becoming shade of pinkish j outskirts, then it is not dillicult to jrculi.o why the cost Mo great, but these |