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Show &i AriYrer Also for0 8 l! Formal Aftexnoor. Tea. fs Few MoJes Wffi Pronounced Decolleiage Now r Seeves Even If Transparent Give ihe Evening a Coivn a Afore Practical Usefulness Many Black Dancing and Restaurant Frocks SfLJHE EVENING gown, ns it was tf conceived a few seasons ago has Ca ft disappeared until after Iho " : wnr. There are fow affairs now ,s which call for tho -grand toilette" g as It Is called in Franco. "Small and Ifa tarllos," constltulo the popular form - of aocial divorslon during war-time: ; or If not literally "small" and "early," wj tho fashionable entertainments arc .uredly not the extravagant and & . jumpluous affairs that former seasons jj knew No more are vast sums spent ; cn costume balls, garden fotcs with g ;.ipeclally built dancing floors out un-B un-B ;rder tho stars, and entertainments of ,g. 'heir Ilk. There aro largo ontcrtnln- Ii meats of course, where tho fashlon-; fashlon-; W congregate, and much money g ami pains aro spent to malco them a y access; but the proceeds go to war j ; relief undertakings, and society has S o pay v.-on for tho privilege of at-g at-g tending. jjft Eitrcnie Evening Gowns Xot Good Tnstc Now u ; u WomnnkInd ,s supposed to be too a fu-y theso days to wasto hours and -j , aoure concocting striking apparel and 1 1 13 not considered Just tho best tasto g ; to express in one's garmenting a lavish Jj , expenditure that might better have .t , Pone to help Undo Sam or some of h l. wio war sufferers of other countries So most of tho now evening gowns 2 ' w fn rfcct of simplicity: and It is I : 0t aI! cffe. either. Most of theso j, j.iwwns express practical features; that 1 i may be donned for various i occajlons. The bull gown turns Itself I 'mo an aflornoon frocJ. that m bQ i I I!n?manlcd by a hat; tho dinner j 1 'Jn unds Itself qulto presontablo ror : matinee theatre performance. With i ess thought required for special cos- Z30 mcot cvcr' socSnl "cod, worn- ,i .nnd moro time for tho big. vital i ' daj3 occupy them thoso war J j Karc The Evening Gown Without j Sleeves I . ! fo prevalent have sleeves become In i , h, ,DC coaturnes thnt tho sort of i , dancing frock, worn two seasons ago, I . r,ns f'oa and with bodice held up i ahouldorstraps would leavo Its 'Ser rathcr "Pleasantly undressed x ooklng now. Sho would certainly fcol 1 i?bn,ee,i f a tuUe 8Carf t0 covr her Sl shouIdcrs and a"ns. All even-Jjll.if even-Jjll.if g0Wns havo covcs. though theso laglnable; yot ovoa.it layer of tullel i floating about the arms, gives the sleovo suggestion and takes away tho baro look. Consider for Instance, tho thcatro frock pictured, a Drocoll model of ilamo rod net with black satin. Two years ago tho swathed satin bodice, rising only to tho armpits arm-pits would very probably havo had no bettor support or covering for the shoulders than slnglo strands of rod beads, like tho bead's that weight tho oversklrt. Now the bodice Is supported support-ed by a yoke and kimono sleovo of flesh colored net and over this sleeve floats the longer sleeve of red silk not. Transparent as tho materials are, thcro is a suggostlon of substance which makes all the difference be-twocn be-twocn gowns of that season and of this. Tho yoko and both alcoves are outlined with tho tiny, glittering rod beads and a bead trimming weights tho soft drapery of tho red net oversklrt. over-sklrt. The underskirt Is of black satin and tho bodlco is really a broad sash of black satin, draped from bust to hip and tied low at tho back. Worn with a stunning hat of transparent fabric, this frock is suitable, for restaurant res-taurant wear or for theatre wear. Without tho hat, It Is a charming dance frock for a smart weok-end house party. The Victorian Kcrehicr ltevlvctl A device for hiding baro shoulders Is tho silk kerchief which v.-as a feature fea-ture of woman's dress In the first half of tho nineteenth century. Short sleeved and low necked bodices were worn then in tho day time, oven by school girls, but thoro was always the kerchief which could bo drawn over tho shoulders. Houses were not steam heated then, you know, and doubtless thoso kerchiefs wcro comfy affairs in tho wlntor season. A black tulle danco frock Is pictured, with a korchlof of palo pink silk over the neck and shoulders. Deep frlngo on the kerchief ker-chief gives qulto an effect of sleeves and this sleevoloss and decollete dance frock, plus the fringed kerchief is perfectly presentable for an afternoon affair at home, Tho llttlo feather fan, also In rose pink, carrlos out the quaint suggestion of the Victorian kerchief. Tho Prevailing Ulnck Evening Gown You cannot go to tha thoatro or visit any restaurant at suppor hour now, In New York, without remarking TheL , the Arras, mltiis f fSiflt I m Kodel of Black. ?M M. A Decollete' Costume Suitable foip Different Occssicrna on the number of black evening gowns you see. Evory other woman seems to be wearing a black frock; yot there is no suggestion of somber-ncss somber-ncss about the black costumes. These mld-scaaon evening gowns aro delight, fully gay and pleasantly fllmy and cool looking desplto their sablo hue. In many Instances the transparent black fabric like tulle, chiffon or chantllly is mounted over white satln. If the foundation Is black, it ' is usually of sevoral layors of net or chiffon, so there is no effect of heaviness heavi-ness or stiffness. Tho black channtilly gowns sometimes have sashes of blue silk or coral satin, or bead embroideries embroid-eries In color may relievo the all-black all-black suggestion. A charming black restaurant dinner gown from Cherult is pictured. Ono of the truly practical prac-tical costumes of a war-time season: Qlurirdn Fro ck. of Black Eliri and "Red ilklfelXortesiauranl. T healer: or Evening "Wear It Is too: and such a gown would bo lnvaluablo In tho wardrobo of any woman who has to mako a fow costumes cos-tumes go a long way In service. Tho gown Is mado of black silk not ovor black chiffon; and under tho black chiffon Is a foundation of thin whlto satin. Tho black silk net sleeves aro In a slnglo layer, only but "caps" of black chiffon cxtond out ovor the upper up-per arm from tho black chiffon slip worn under tho not. Tiny Jot beads form parallel stripes on the silk net and weight it gracefully, and a boad-edged boad-edged sash passes twlco around the waist, tying in front. Golden roses, mado of tiny gold boads embroidered on tho not, light up this black cos tumo wonderfully and give It unique Interest. Another thing you may note, tho black chiffon undersllp Is gathered j around the ankles, tho jot-bordered I not skirt hanging straight over the sathered Oriental slip. Ixuigcr Skirts On Evening Gowns All the cvoning gowns pictured, you perceive, have much longer skirts than last season's models. French dancing frocks fall to the ankles, and oven to tho Instep, now. Two dainty dance frocks of light colored fabric aro pictured; ono a gracoful dinner gown for week-end wear and the other a little dance frock. The dinner gown Is of applo green satin brocade and shoulders and arms are veiled with white tulle. Tho dance frock Is equally equal-ly modest, with sloevcs and chemlsotto of tullo and a girlish decolletagc. Pink and mauve flower festoons nestle against. the tulle and hide beneath tho floating tullo dancing skirt, on a petticoat pet-ticoat of white lace. I T"tos Graceful Kodellf J ISli iKade of Apple z 3111 dnfeen arid Silver' Brocade wiUn 2leeYes of? Tfhite Silk. tfet |