| Show The Tail T a re d Suit S domes Comes Into t Its t Own Ag A Alain ain i BY SARA MARSHALL COOK n r t 1 ar ara arr R RF F L Li i Y t SC a Y p r y ZY r t N 1 9 r rl I r wV rS i ii i s e ei i Y iI i i ij I t j riu t ry 9 q tr k y f r 1 t 2 R y 1 J Ih aC HJ t J s r H Ht Hj r j 31 rn s a I Q 8 i t rz A 44 r 0 z U U u up nl p pr 1 1 a 3 0 tJ 3 t s s p E w 11 y I Ii I II f 1 O I t I I I T- T Tp O OO OV p V lV r ri i i 4 sr i I I hj f fI 1 34 1 1 j Y 1 7 e 1 r 1 j r R w wr 0 0 3 SUit of navy blue reps with ith brilliant a colored wool embroidery worn rn a Talbot p hat of bla black l horsehaIr trimmed with made hand wool braid in colors The at the TIght right shows s the worn without the coat J j Lambs Lamb's s Wool in Latest Shades I 1 Used Used to Trim Smartest Models I The Jacket Blouse Suit With Plain or Pleated Skirt Skirl Worsted Worsted Embroidery in Bright Colors I Used in Dark Darla Blue Models l 4 EAN in showing shoeing his Ills JEA advance collection for autumn and Inter has emphasized again the popularity of the tailored suit both present and future e If New York follows follos the Paris Logue ogue it will mil go in strongly for or the blouse ticket sut with plain cr pleated skirt often with a test cst estor or blouse especially designed to harmonize winter Inter w inter suits are trimmed with Ith lambs lamb's fur beginning with uth expensive close curl Persian and the satin like broadtail and sounding the full gamut of krim- krim krimmer krimmer mor krim-mor mer shaved lamb and fabrics imi- imi imitating imitating imi imitating tating all of these furs Lamb is the fur par excellence for tailored suits The flat fiat close curl or shared shaded surface takes tales sway way the woolly look of other long haired long pelts Their use on the tailored SUit gives richness and becomingness v destroying in any way the tailored look 1001 of of the garment i im iq m q S 0 i t y yi i J I 1 1 4 r s l lr t r j j r 11 1 t ot ae 1 add I P t 1 ti 1 rt r 4 1 1 t tI I y DYN 1 h I I J Jt Jr Jr t r r t a r Y ti I r r I M N s I Ii II 1 i I Il I 1 e 9 h I Another point in favor of the lambs Jambs wool is that it can be had hadIn hadin hadin In all the fashionable shades of beige tan brown and gray One is 15 not confined to the natural color n as all of these skins take dye beau beautifully beautifully tI fully v vIn In winter inter line very many of his tailored ed suits are in three three- three piece piece effect that is dress and Jacket Once the coat is removed the skirt with mth its specially e executed top becomes a charming afternoon dress smart enough for any dancing dancing dancing ing tea or informal dinner The neck is usually collarless and the sleeves ale nothing at all but slight extensIOns over the shoulders shoulder Watch Fobs Suspended j I From Jacket Pockets the Place Vend Vendome orne ladies ladles tailor who specializes in tailored inman-tailored tailored man suits has had tremendous tremendous tremendous dous success in ParIs Pans He hils has one model called a perfectly plain semi fitting mannish tailored SUit of wh which ch he has made no less than a thou thousand and to beorn be bo worn orn in paris A charming note whIch adds to this suit is a P watch atch fob made from pIerced silver letters mounted on a ablack ablack ablack black silk cord This little fob dangles from the breast pocket of the suit and is in the initials or name of the wearer i has another very popular popular popular lar model called Bajama which is qUIte pi plain am in style with cleverly strapped seams in the semi fitting semi jacket A Bernard suit which is one of the most popular models m dels In Paris at the present time time Some of ofTie the new woolens used for mal mal-ing malt mal maling malting ing autumn suits are also shown In the sketch I l o oAt At Tailored left left Tailored suit suit of striped lightweight woolen r t Above Abow ie Abo butterfly hato hat Below The it-The it The watch fob made from pierced silver letters mounted moun d don on ablack a t J black Hack silk sill cord which adds to his tailored suits suits A Bernard suit in navy blue with brilliant embroidery and t ends on tile the collar and cuffs He has n CI number of belted models a notable one being Sheik which has hns a jacket blouse with in- in inverted inverted in inverted pleats at each side of the back and ard front falling from a deep yoke oke line Ime and inset with braid The pockets and cuffs culls also are trimmed pith nith inverted pleats and insertions of silk braid Usually this suit IS developed in navy blue serge sergo with black bind silk braid At least five hun hun- hundl hundred hun died dl dred ed of this model are running around Paris Pans All smart crave at least one ossen OP makes many of 1 his llis s jackets in such a II clever way that the lInes of the jacket are in sequence with those of the skirt to give the Im- Im Impression impression im impression of n a robe manteau The jacket however may be removed dIsclosing n a dress with Ith fancy silk top or a blouse Mouse of silk This designer always places em- em emphasIs emphasis em emphasis on tailored things both both SUits and dresses Many of his tailored costumes are in so-called so sportswear style style In this line one finds bril bril- brilliant brilliant hant colors such as red and ond yellow Jackets of suits of this sort may have a II separate collar or even a separate scarf which matches the SUit perfectly in fabric and ond color Many of the skirts have groups of pleats on one side with a band be- be beneath beneath be beneath neath the pleats A most successful suit for autumn IS in navy blue wool reps with i- i iI r I I I t t C A tilt r t t wool embroidery ofa of a brilliant color 1 The embroidery is in the form of a aIde wide Ide sleeve band and a band around the bottom of the short jacket ThIs model 13 lS sketched on to- to days to-day's page A Bernard suit in navy blue with brIlliant wol embroidery is also sketched to-day to It has a particular particular- particularly I ly interesting collar and cuffs show show- showing showing showing ing scarf ends hanging from corded bands Another smart suit from Bernard Bernardis BernardI is i of the t type pe frequently noted on the Avenue du Bois on Sunday morning at al the corner called La re or the Gossip Corner just where the avenue is crossed by the meeting place of fashIOnably dressed women after church The Tho suit is of gray cloth and made in a n plain tailored effect A sketch or of o this appears at the lower left of this page Bernard uses a great deal of beIge covert cloth cloth- cloth for the plain SUIts in which he shows all the art artof artof artof of man tailoring co combined med WIth feminIne charm The short-jacketed short suits take precedence over all other styles from a standpoint of numbers as aswell aswell aswell well as variations Particularly does the short jacket stand out among the models made by called so-called Bo fashion leaders leaden such as Chanel Jenny Drecoll Point Beer and Agnes Some of the models are so 80 simple as to make one wonder why they are p put t out as models but then one must murt admit their charm and that probably is the answer Hunters Hunter's Green Reps Repa RepaU Used U ed for Fall Models MANY ANY over all-over embroidered jackets to be worn with simple cloth skirts are shown hown asell as well ell as beaded jackets with wool reps skirts One maker shows a beautiful ul green reps suit with a short jacket in whIch the collar cuffs cutIs and girdle are covered with a 0 bead bend embroidery d out in is green and black The straight little jacket has interesting tucked fullness th the body and sleeves and there are pleated side panels in the skirt Great diversity is expressed In Inthe inthe inthe the materials which Chanel uses for her three-piece three costumes She makes afternoon ensembles consisting of ofa ofa ofa a silk dress arid wool coat that have much in common both as to line and color This designer favors the short skirt and makes much of skis t tI I flounces either circular ruffled or pleated A piece four-piece suit by this maker IS made o of smooth jasper serge serge It consists of a length full-length cape in IA ad- ad addition ad addition to a length hip-length jacket a nar nar- narrow nar- nar narrow narrow row skirt with side aide pleats inset at atthe atthe atthe the level of the knee and a white linen Imen blouse Hunters Hunter's green wool reps is a ma- ma material ma material tenal used for several ne new model SUitS for tor autumn makes mak one fit pf his greatest Paris Pans successes in this material and color It con con- consists consists con consists of a plain jacket and skirt trImmed with machine on the belt of the jacket and the yoke of the skirt Bright Wool Embroideries True Trim Autumn Suits ONE kNE Parisian maker of sports dresses is having considerable success with lith the sports dress Gress dress in yel- yel yellow yellow yel yellow low and white checked cheeked kasha or In all white kasha Jasha When the two ma- ma materials materials ma materials are combined the jumper blouse is of the novelty check and the pleated skirt skirt kirt is solid white A great deal of bright colored wool embroidery is used on SUItS being prepared for the coming autumn This wool offers an opportunity opportunity for every woman who cares for bright colors to express her love for them There is a pathetic story about a drab little country woman who al- al always al always ways wanted to wear bright colors but stuck to her browns broWns and grays for lor fear of of her husbands husband's husbands husband's nd's criticism and ridicule She thought however that God must have loved bright col- col colors colors col colors ors himself because he made roses so red and grass so green This may bo an extreme case but the fact remains that American women have hate been afraid of bright colors and have been content t as a 8 nation to dress themselves soberly and plainly I r k kA kV V A A Suzanne Talbot hat made I from cords of tulle twisted j i around tubes and sewn to shape hape 1 Now the psychology of color is so sowell sowell sowell well understood that any woman at atall atall atall all who ho knows s anything about dress knows that she can wear colors If they are the right ones And there are right ones for every woman Perhaps no one factor changed things so completely for the Ameri Amen American can cnn woman as the tho bright colored knit hand knit sweater which has made its appearance as ns a necessary and and ery tery ery serviceable article of dress Women who ho had always concealed theIr longing for gay hues suddenly realIzed the fascination of a pair of knitting needles and a collection of balls of gayly colored yarns and wools Then the possibilities of this same yarn and wool caught their imaginations imaginations nations and they experimented wide widely ly with mth equally scarves and with colored wool for decoration There was no dress they found no hat no coat so drab that it could not be brightened by wool em- em embroidery em embroidery Knitted golf sweaters in gay col colors ors took the place of the old-fash old tennis and golf blazer which had boldly flaunted all the colors ot of the rainbow Hotel piazzas in the th summer time blossomed with color as the balls of wool fell from the laps of the knitters on the golf course the tennis court the beach and in the ballroom color appeared as if it by magic magIe and no woman need need- needed needed ed to be drab unless she perversely re refused used to see where Fashion was wa leading her sisters The Italian women with red and yellow handkerchiefs s and rusty green shawls the immigrants wane wait mg in train sheds show no more col- col color cot col color or nowadays than do their Ameri Ameri- American American can sisters passing by In their hand hand- knitted hand knitted garments With the great popularity of color it could be plain plain- plainly plainly plainly ly seen even by the most cal cal that after all America Is a cou con conglomeration of races The inherited raCIal fondness for colors crept out in the dress of the New Englander the Southerner the woman from the MIddle West and the Pacific Coast The decree of Fashion that colors must be worn suddenly made every everyone everyone one long for the costumes of the lands from which their fore forefathers athers came This summer the call to colors is rot only loud but insistent As A usual the knitted hand sweater is the simplest way woy for a woman to gratify her love of ot brightness In a hundred hues it will be seen and the th new loomed hand-loomed worsteds and many knit hand knit sweaters will be bright bright- brightened brightened brightened ened embroidery Think of the joy of app arin on a gray day with a Chinese rec and green cross crO S stitch on a toned neutral-toned colored dress or a golf sweater in reds and blues with touches of green orange and yellow Think of the influence on the disposition and how the blues w will l be driven away A Helmet Developed From Gold Cloth AND yet bizarre as it may sound aoun L these are the garments that the well dressed woman will wear this year The girl who used to say meekly that she would love to tG wear bright colors but didn't dare has passed away smothered to death under a pile of gayly colored yarns approved sanctioned and all that by Mme Grundy who bow to Dame Fashions Fashion's decree Some of the late summer models in hats are sketched to-day to There Then Thenis is 3 Talbots Talbot's hat of taffeta trimmed with made hand wool braid in r red d tan and black mixed with gold also Suzanne Talbots Talbot's hat m made de from cords of tulle twisted around horse horse- horsehair horsehair horsehair hair tubes and sewn ty tp shape The Th crown band is of cashmere print Lanvin's helmet or casque c t nie-d nie d I d in gold cloth w with th black em- em embroidery embroidery em embroidery is also sketched Tl purely Greek in style and looks al as it if It were cast from g gilded gil ded metal tal It Ith an and shown exclusively Ii 14 a n charming type by Lanvin butterfly hat I is I charming for the evening It Is fa IsY Y made of two lace butterflies one posed above tb th ona a brim m of matching matching beige lace lacend and a crown of beige braid braid- |
