|Rights||No Copyright - United States (NoC-US)|
|Publisher||Digitized by J. Willard Marriott Library, University of Utah|
|Article Title||Gov. Seward in the East|
11 JOCKS P? OOV; SEWARD, ftqu Say? 1 to If -!' "ii'fcayWfeV permitted & fcim' If JfoUo'wiBg'rlrwU fnjffi two letters' latclyi II . tiMUtcdfrom'QoriSftwi:tlll'', If ' ' -4itC' 'rOtr BoAKQritK Aii BftdbKAlf - I j-r,-i' Al)nwUftljQiif w0nld,48r,w!!'m.e 'Jof If S&lfrftRbBWiqt h jffiK:Tt; W iinquisb ,a aiaht of thb Holy ,Land' I took I pjiisnveftfciiyF ' io$fe "rtvjtti ' jin-K jin-K rErihjofflafld.fajrWfreh':on 'Board; I! this.j.V6sk;l-w-aifrliitboat belorigirigtq K d with, much greater privations and jOr nnrc'neb'heshm Is a sWooneKbn ibot id $m&fcWMfae' ?Me (Wls hVr nHitegOod; trait. )v'There'is. tho apiain W '.ff-4;cXc qamep aH-,RpntAnCaOiQltc. I! JangBngo ionjr They pfoTO R 0ihemsclve'a to- bo not'lJassuImeh, Viitj "Christittas"byi;fiavlri a boss on their osariese.bat.ia.,ftll?elso they' Are as vqri-' H table Arabs hsj jbp,cfpjlqw?ri of .r'Isinin' K ' could roliufro."1'- '' ; ' II ' r.fWTOBliAT,.,:J8tll. ((' II - . Still 6rirboBH!:thd.fftb Brooltn;f - If ttflyS WxlJflfJ. it asbqbad made no vows; and "had .nb If Ngtitf SlWfc JFa(e'iyrir-witlidld '' a c farofing;gaei Butdthbugb' ciiUhlly1 I t Impious, jiavo gadifair,- winds.! I On.ilie II s st aJ'T. t,'? -.xJfrpin (,thc. II 'barbr, of lQ:anana,wnic1i is rendered, II KVery'dangerous'by'roclcs' ndbreakerV. If "-Ayerpasiedylbatislq, oP:pliarqsrt;ana ifor If T'ny 'PJ-S? ,Pore IIC08 road vritb tbarutnVbf tbo 7prte, Wd oUier die- I ' fences built1 by the FreSch tniXJpnapnrlo's. I. .memorable campaigrtofxts.j We. I; paMcdithrougUitqqjJlay, of Abptiljir, the I acene of. tho memorable battle of that I Batn.f Yesterdaymorning ww lost sight I ofAlckand.-ia' aiidjits light-hpiise, niid i jti jtho'Jfi Vehing .tye passed Roscta,. an Tm- I portaBt Bcaport in the Delta, Thisraom- I; -ing, the- third day of pur voyage, we I i Ioptebout upotiut. coast indeJjte,d with f "S? .hills anq thronged witb.manybipi. 8ooQ Damiolta,rwliicU ia fit the pastern mouth of the" Nilo," appeurd-in view. '1'he. It eqasils YtifrMb saiidjv thij inoUth of thp mi lvPrl?8epnnbuiJ.hccro;Y4J OMijipprng iiadicating a ; great seepprt. .j.Wp.are . .creepipg from that port towards ,affa,. I IC"?C jr0a6neav- Afriya II ,re j-TJiingsqplrdnc ave 1 Goatestedior isupremacy.oftcn aonvits' coasts,' Greeks nd'Pcrsi&nsVKbmaha' If ,that,Afrca wiHiBeyer,,fall under,uor.perr. HjaU EHropeaa (8way. Keithen.ita- eandy. H 'akfnor1t8peeuliar,f half 'savnge'peo- JplnveV'tidit ,;u'rQpcanhabrta-, - u v.0Il9ARJHBMA,BllOOKA)i om 1 . 1 ji -wt Sunday idlh. f ;Llgh't brccMS. biit fair all night; stars, 4lHPJie3,argo!jpdrapjb than I.ewrswvriThp ','iniUty r.ay" an irfo.' Silarwhitp fleeoo stretching (piite neregj , e; heavens, The habitual" temper of tjbecal W paticHcbj and Jditiercncp to patararjievelopments, Thia is, tlie third day of our voyage, thebegininng of the fourth.'- ,Joppato'morrpT?''"ihquiredT, p(,th Captain, an Arabic Christian. "H Bba Allah,'' iie said, 'fjf iGod pleasi " AVe Bee na land. These primitive sailors caVry "rip cpmpass.lake no obsijr-, Vatrpnjiecpiioreckonfng. but elcer by, land-marks .when the coast is visible, and ' T "untnpon'ftrid stara whei out at sen J :f?s-"cnn6ahd since wp'assed flamlctta.Jjut wj) know .byjho, ratotaty tewhichitcbavp, sailed that we mrb still off the African coast. If we are fortunate, "'fiMt5Und that wq, shall look upon wdlbe in Brja, Talfestine, ihe high .hills-that .hills-that overlook' G4ia, and stretch behind AskaloB4U .. .. . ij. hayfrnettliotfcd. already one; monastery mon-astery 9,rnpro in'the Jloly land- (,T,he early; Furj'opeari Cliristians conceived tfiqt therwas'gr'catlnerlt inSrfiUingi by way. of pilgrimagrithe's'corica o( thesuffurings. kof theavior, bUth-tney fQUndthewhole WWW: lfnds 9.forpP8?!nd savage enemies tojthp roligion.ofihcl Cross. t Travel could, not be .piifef' pfer; foVrilc'd therti'ndit6uld 'ehtPriarninent bei found, ;Europcsn.'slrangcrs and religious jpqn' fqupde imoriasterjealbyftiryjvheroj oten, troogly tforifiedr-a&.; placeaof saKty fpr tliepngrlro, and of hospitality, and th wp ye't:Temnifi.''r They arc CKthck la, 6reekV;Prtt8Wnt"-;Greek, . ArmehlKft ind.Aygsiniw;u andi inarnttchasjiho. -d,?DSeTA JUi.rtM!J nWmainViajJargc,, 'districts,and. there are few, taverns Tor. the acboWnib'daUonf-EurP'p-riVhw'W the VesortrthpiiraVelcrof ; thores'bnt! presgntsother and'mpre reliable monuV triPnts of trifi'samb" chnrnctcivYouseo alparty-of Syrians Vi?Ariib9. atbreBt in i9ir,pamp,:ribn.Vtheir,-vHiarch,1andfyou. progresson a , pty (of. perspns- in: the isifttiq'bpujitry tW6' thousand yeaVsagO:' aaid swarms oCujimela,! aaseslnnd-g'oats.j (Lpalsmp,l.qprA,mq y,pu a-ff wu'pnteh ting breadtbut there is no divnib person e'hWBw'W hcarthem? ThoVbHlid, thb lame4Uhp.'piIepHloiIc'alway8 ;in yphr wajr.'solfcitingj reliof.j.Medicall aidjor, medhijnbjtbawiliirdeli by tbe:sickJ at tjie liauds.pf nhyyerson'of. conditibn who, passes by. Cpulfsep twp. intimate frTerids'meet or depart'., "Tlioyr cover .each other witli 'kisses?- You ce a party at.dinncr .desupper, Thereis.bha djshwhioh, always isjicpiid., acir.eata by djpping a sop into the .comnott disli.: Sbou'Jsefe how ratfdn'at arid Vfbbablo'Hru, tlie hj9toriestf..lho. betray l bf pUcSUSra, .byWudasI.aitf.w h.m . . " Lst( ' , . ; yp,lQf t the;igpod.m6nk( :of Imlah; at fi ve o'clock - oh Thursday "morning? and,, through. Uiic'dnceiv'ably' cr6kedrnrid' liar-row liar-row pathways, emerged upbnlhplaiiii.'of, Sliaron,! vAn;JioursomtvvoTjsuEced ib, .which separate, that plum from tlio vallpy, pfJpraaV arid'thb Dead Sen". Ihe 'aWeht, is stpe'p, tho dlhtainstare'iil'mass br systemiirregularwand almost untolieved bJ valleys! , In- fact,, all .of,iPalpstmorin-cluding .of,iPalpstmorin-cluding the. site; of t Jeru$a?mAand Jhc scenes of Scripture" Iiistoryi consists of these 1 mountains; fcept tli'e beautiful plain of. Slmrdnj which lies between, th'em. and; the Mediterranean -Sea; Ten .weary hours, we,tqilpd.ji) making our way up these mountains to find, the Holy City. Reaching the summit of briewe descended l only to. ascend "another still higher, and the' roads often sharp, fiteep, stone stairways, which, p.nj" a trained animal an ascend, or .djsscend safply Kor have-you have-you ever'seen "nny uch mountain spends. Gardens, fieldstybes, jlaritl and shrubs, disappear; chalky "rocks lie hbaped 6n heaps,-, no house or habitation of-man or .bsastynqtverdurp, M9ept,bp.i;e and,tlrp a tuft of brown dead bushes pr grass,-withered grass,-withered for want pfwater or spadq nO 'sigh- of life,' except hero aricl- Hicre" a tihepHerd,. nrmedtt witli his. reed; nnd his: (Ipg.pn.d,M3fl.Opjii;pf. . sheep amLsgoats,) of this dwindled and stunted .vegetation.) .Tlifil oncS'infa aandVavuic! iwhisro-Trateris detained 'ddnhg Ihp'dry. season,! and licret'arp small Aiioldstand. gCdbns,, but;th?Jgenp:atflnd fHiost-, fSaeSlpn0CJP9tn We found' a'ruincd'VlW6oToa: i' high; eminence, beari'ngrtho.bame'bf)idi'oKi. The legends of the .Christianslsay that it took iU nomafrom ,'thq;fact thaytvas the homebf ;tbe' niahfactor4whp sptferjid dba'th witK'the Savior, and was pardoned by him on tb'o cros's, Furthbr" on' 'I "dp- acended into thP valley of Jer'omiah.which jseld to have been the birtluplace, of the prpphet whq.mbst. touqhinglj struck, tlie chords of the hearts of Lis earnest and devotipnal countrymen Descending the next mountain 'V found caves and seemingly, tombs in aihamhH which contains con-tains prliap, half a dozen familiqs, but the fuins of, many habilatonip. 'fa is. the village of Kamatba, the hlrth-placo pf Samuel,'and the placo where he rfSceiv.d' the sublime call to it of God, and I nlmo?t fancied thatJ stood orenthe cave of tlio. ,-wjtch of pdoi when she called up pifl, dead at the .entreaty qf jsaul" I walked tlirough the, brook, now all dried up,"1; TjhereDavid took the five pebbles to sup ply the sling with which, he conquered the Giant of the Philistines. . I did not refuse Id believe when they tqld n?c I &&pW mf.thd, valley wliere'iAbraiialHi .dwelt ttith ihls.familyand' flqcksjwd nov. on tlip -summit. :6f! the "mountain hero thb sun.'wAi'stoppe'a in its course at tho-ebmmand ot Joshua tb'prolobff the baltlb,. .tV.iiichswaaVfo.jrcsult ia tkc vrictdty; ,9f thb peoplb.qf j - ,; ., . It fwas a weary journey throwgJi a sad and mournfuljland; relieved by an deca- siodal rest niider.thS Wadb of ft Scfe'qr (f a, solitary, ollvei tired; fpi'rJeru'sttleBX ,seenedto bbcAfeytb-yec'promlsdd bdti Unattainablewhcn twereachedat last, at 4. o'crock.i.ho.summit of a' hill bigheV .tlinli allf that tf had- pas'scd,'' a'htf HglW beforeine- qnUbe'rqckjr.pIhi'fl, aithb dis-itaacdi.Qf. dis-itaacdi.Qf. -milev stood thp . JIol pity, n. it; was a9t.t.be.fl,ncjcnt4e.cusaleroi',,adt a, ast,metriopblis, nqt eytn a.mcdipivil "City liko",ltbmo,Aut'a modern built 'town, 'ofall.-cir milltaryiwaUiandsarmo .qijadeJjd'frers, .'steeples, 'and irioaumonts, l)fAuLK!il,t0Vi,Ponf -M1 iwpb;intip"g; all ihe conceits I.hadtQnnedinjrecardtto" :ib;wpeclkf S " - , JsnijsAiM;'Scni:2CriS5!J. r--P Oh Sliturdaf W6'rKngf24th wp'Vatl icoflea and egga'at-'bur ho'tel ft4'o,clbck;: Mnafte.r yigprus activity? hadibuen.cx'-ercUed,.. hadibuen.cx'-ercUed,.. weountcd: forajjwioV into ljhq eastern, part pf,PaIcsUrto.41 A. Ciivass iSn officer p( ihe'-Turkisii.' army, iarmedand'beiifirigA silver stick,' assign-,ed,'io;a8y assign-,ed,'io;a8y Consiihor otber'favor6U;pcrsbh by thb Government, for his .protection,' and to assure his; safety on thb JiiglH Vays.-". - Jk'hold 'bur military' nrray as wc !a$sod';through the-'Darha'scus -gate lot erusalemt at aunrise. 1 TW-Ciivasses. commanding the faithful; with tlieir 'ass-et,' 'ass-et,' horses and loadod camels, to turh1 ttf ihe right or leftbr to hall uhtil'wppassed,' which they obeyed, Millie -they wqn-i dcrod whp they were that were tktishon-. bred . by thfe -Sul tan t a'tnulelecr -with his mules loaded with the. pro visions fur the journey-r-a ,boy TVith' a donkey Equally loaded,' andtbuaringtfur double-barrelled " Trt--v3r-un?rir! nf yOito imuic-trapittitf'' .mysirj;nnd,then:in the 'rear 'si. marines qf jtlijUilited Statei-Navy, sarmbdvitji sliqr t,s words .and revdlver3. uThe'Tur--jsh gato'ot- Jerusalem 'JoponedHprp'rap'tly ifprjha.H ,pf pcessianii jrheJ'urkisrV'giMru. (tyero already!undet iliillion ihofilaiBi-anu a buglp'blast.-.thatj.went fortlt Jrpnj?tlie. 'height of Mount Zionvwas respondoditb jnt.xquislto echorby another Turkish bi-gle.amid.the bi-gle.amid.the tombs of; thencientikiiigs ;of .fcrusalom,. , Jf.early, four: thousand ycarajpldisJerusaJem. . She lias , seek mupyjJays.qfJriuraphjand ofglofy,'.and li8endiircd.many,lpng seasons, humiliations humili-ations and disgruce. But nonb that weife inore hperleiss than her present degradation, it seems. tP me trodden to tho cnrtfi-by the fierce JVrnb of the desert, des-ert, whlp tho outside world respects only her past, andJs indiffereol otthp future. We made put; way, around thq south-eastern south-eastern corner of the, walls, and then turned to the westward and descended MbunVMoriah" by a "winding' c'hnael-road, haTng tho ''.Mosque or Girihrj which Sfatuls on the silo of the aiicien't Temple, ajid.the lleautifui, Gate,dir,ectly a qur side. Wc desended into tho valley of Jehosophat, and crossed tho brook Ke dron. We could so'oibefore us its winding course underneath tho tombs of hundreds of generations, until it reaches the Tobl of iSilonm, now not only withouUienling waters, but almost -without water at nil. tWa rpseon.the.southern side ofUCedroh, and-stood upon the:decliity looking over .1hq-wall; ipta the- Garden o Octhsemane, jwiUiiJts. few Jrelica. of -olive troes,- and, after, a, pause or-tho tontemplalion,pf the ficcne. il resumed my vay, ind ascended Uiel Mount of. Oliycs.i IpTlio side of tbdMount qf.OHces ia.an easy grade, and it, towers so high as .tq overlook the Mount Moriali .and most of the.city. OH votreea grace the declivity!, andil'tho ,sile ofMhq. Transfiguraiion'iis now covered with a monastery,. -The Cijiy are bold and distinct, I wonuereo, as 1. looked down, into the vaTe'c-fGclicn.-na or Topbct; that I'hhd) not reepwnized: these, scenes without: a guide. ? Theithili--j?ides.arecqvcreditb;.tom()f every age, and ,overy,naioptrbm thoefcloed yesterday yes-terday until ypu"get biiclf ib lhe""pcribdJ of early antiquity. Indeed those who live atOorusalem speak as if antiquity .was . 6ny of yesterday.- Centuries of ;histqry..arerought intp near jeviow by ihe l.iabijoMudyingQantiquitjgs with the aid of' tradition, l was roused from medUdtfoHVorl the pervo'racness bf man, which always - rejects' instructions the most: benevolent, and persecutes most.; bitterly thpsc wbo cqrao. to a,yext its evils, by finding that Thajl quiq jost sight of the Holy City.and Was pursuing my way along arouch rdad towards llcthany,tho village of Mary and Martha and Lazarus, Laza-rus, An hour and a halfjbrpught us tp . , i ; . . . I r , t j hat interesting place, which , is situated qi the .eastern declivity;, pfAIbunt OHvcti ldbkiig; dq.wn.lntp.a, dark, deep, ravine. 1 'I'bild'alreadf sccn'-rn' Hbe' distance; thq DedSea, Vbich was twenty-seven miles catant-rnqvrthe ifttervehing.;mouhtains . clqethc prospfc,c.tj suddenly. . ;ipthany 'i B,jruin. ' So)ne.twqnty; "dilapidated b8uec8 Wb occupied by Bccjouin airnbsf. "Wpthirig-of culture dr'cbmfbrtrwasiecn -jeolyjtatitorabVand .buryfng-grotind JfPpAoflfM .any acc,ord; with; the! existing' habjlCbftSpciety; .Hcb; the1 Shelklor cWefof thpttrtbo 'of Bedouins .who ppssess-s tha :i land1 belpw, Jeiiiiiftlem andithe.Dey Sea; joined1 us 'otf horse-back.w.Uh) horse-back.w.Uh) jEVe of his mounted tand armed men,, and.vith :tlisf orcp-wB. . proceed ,ed down ono! ,'mountainl tip. "another; by, the i mqt!, intolerable road over, traveled all'daylphg-f seeing no 'fieldinliauses ad irnan; no i treds, tothingubut - barren rocks wjth dn.e.ijtaftaof grass;and shrubs,- ieyel or Jerusalem, I stood on tlje .beaeh "bf theDcad-lSearieaV'to'wheW eiVeV,theT watertf blJbrdanr4 On itsreast' pi8idthpm6utaintrises;,aS'aVruptty aboro was Judcrt,. the eastern, thq land.of Moat,'!1 Tbo'Wekern!-st,o're. the;jand'bf Canaari'the'eastcriitho and'alwaya 'of savage'enprnieswi l..X.$i ' A qutt.wtfshining'bijghtlyjd mystc;ipu8lfike, btt a ..wholesome, and genial v breeze .camp from lls .surface,. 'and it IdbTscdfoKalllhe worltilikb1 Cjiyuga !qr Seneca Xnk'e, But its waters1 wcre ,.aciiid,and bitter;to,lhe!tasb,tand painful t6Hthqsitpuch. j.'Two absolutely -naked Arabs we"re "carrying skins" pf .thb.Dqad, Sea1 water o some cabins of !theirsin the r'ockV and" they wqref tin?, paif hunian beitigawhom!l aw during the whole-day,-from Bejhany, to the J)ead:Sea. ; ' 'Thcj saijbrs ,bathcdi,in.iJie lakq nd found jfe'walprs buoyanCj The Land of, Moabwasasdcsolafo'us thblandof Judea; i4 mountain even" WgWer.t?-AYbJgatlt- Ve3t; aritlpd jicroaa e; djrv8andy,;dcs'-olate1 djrv8andy,;dcs'-olate1 white plain , two iiours, until we found ourselves iirfront of long rows ol trees and t shrubbery,, rbfreshlng- to tle ftight, and heard 'tlie rushing of waters beneath IJiemV-' FfillowingtheatK along jIlrfa.pjeiifftn.tjBliade; wifcamo'to aiiplac? whta the banks werlpwj and. ,vq all riihe'd incpnlihcntly irjtp tjio Riycr Jor-ilanSr'" Jor-ilanSr'" tt 4ia the'o'iijy rurining.slrcam we had icfd in Judeaan'd'it'-SrKs'the second placoiwherewo found ,watcrtfor''oiirJ'ahr imalsJq.purvWholb march.: 1 thoughtjit bqth'.patural and ineyitable that thejin-habitanta.pf thejin-habitanta.pf Syria should deem tlieir,only' Hvfe? fat 'eacred onb. We drank of its watoitwe bathed in them we felt that they, were hot only refreshing, but bbai ing. But tho Jordun, like Jerusalem,, is fi xupurner. Wc couTd fiee the valley through which it flowed for many miles '-flai1 intervale land, covered with white ands. ' ;I3 At S. o'clock in. the .morning tho Sheik called ,ua up, we.jnqunted and proceeded Wouir way backward toward Jerusalem bjf starlight, up and down alt kinds of stair-cases. The sun rose and' the day's heat: began before we reached the Mount f" .ftUyes-- . At l we entered Jerusalem, niter ande of twentyone hours out of twenty-eight in the saddle.