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Show HANDICRAFT FOR BOYS AND GIRLS ;! " Br V 1 A. NEELY HALL and DOROTHY PERKINS I" iftW.W1AWW.VAVA,AW.VWiWA,AWAVmWW (Copyright, by A. Neely Hall.) MODEL AEROPLANE PROPELLERS AND A MOTOR WINDER. A pair of propellers must be of Identical size, but opposites right-hand right-hand and left-hand; that Is, the upper end of the right-hand propeller must b shaped to turn to the right, and that of the left-hand propeller to turn to the left, when viewing the mounted pair from the rear of the model. After preparing one propeller In the manner described below, make the SEEP second one with blades turned in the opposite direction. Figures 1 to 7 show the seven steps in preparing a propeller. Let the 1 "Figure" numbers also represent the "Btep" numbers. First of all prepare a propeller "blank" of 'the dimensions shown In Step 1. This block should be of straight-grained white pine, and b planed up straight and true qn all sides. Draw a line around the four faces of the block at the exact center of Its length. Then on faces C and D, lay off a distance of one-half inch on the center-line, measuring from the edge of face B, to provide for the thickness of the propeller-hub (Step 2), and from the point representing the end of this measurement draw diagonal di-agonal lines to the upper left and upper up-per right-hand corners (Step 2). Then with a saw cut away the portions por-tions above these lines, as shown in Step 3. Mark out the one-half-lnch hub upon faces A and B of the block, and bore a small hole through the center for the propeller-shaft to run through (Step 3). Then draw diagonal diag-onal lines from the ends of "the hub center-line to all four corners (Step ), and saw away the wood above and below theee lines (Step 5). Step 6 consists in laying out the form of the propeller blade upon all four sides and ends of the block, and Step 7 is the final cutting and shaping of the blades.. After finishing the cutting, place the propeller at Its center upon the edge of your knife, and if It does not balance bal-ance perfectly cut away enough of the heavy end until It does. Smooth up the surfaces with emery-paper, then raella. them. 1 r3n rubber'st''and motors are wound 1.000 turns or more, for a flight The Pair must be wouud an equal number "lies. To simplify this winding, ,oys ta;k a Dover egg-beater (Fig. and cut off the ends of the wire , fs' and the central pivot wires on nicn the loops turn. Then they bend the cut-off ends of vhe loops into nooks, punch the loop ends for the P ot lre ends to stick through (Fig In 1" Hvet these t0 keep the hocks to position. ngure 16 shows how the , ends f the rubber-strand motors :,inreJmo7"1 from the framework, and tEg00 the winder (jooks, for -i HOMEMADE RUBBER STAMPS. First of all, you will need some flat pieces of rubber. There are many sources from which to get these. Mother's discarded clothesringer has a pair of rollers that can be stripped of their rubber coverings, or you can use pieces of a worn-out hot-water bag, a piece of a bicycle or motorcycle motor-cycle tire, or the Inner tube of an automobile au-tomobile tire. If you can't find any such pieces of rubber at home, probably prob-ably some friend can Bupply you. In addition to the rubber, you will need thread spools on which to mount the rubber. Figs. 1 to 5 show the steps In preparing pre-paring a letter "A" stamp. The hole in each spool must be plugged with a wooden peg (Fig. 1), and the peg cut off even with both ends of the spool so a letter may be mounted upon up-on each. Cut a square of rubber of the size of the letter you wish to make, and glue It upon the spool end; then with a ruler and pencil draw the letter upon the rubber (Fig. 2), or, if yoa have prints of large type, cut out a letter and paste it upon tbe rubber. (Paste It upside down, because type must read backwards to print correctly. cor-rectly. See Fig. 7.) When the piece of rubber 1b glued fast to the spool end, and the letter drawn or pasted upon it, carve out the letter with your knife, cutting carefully care-fully along the outlines of the letter, and removing the pieces of rubber not wanted (Figs. 3 and 4). Make "proof" of the letter by printing it upon a piece of paper, and then trim any places that show up rough. To complete the stamp, cut off the edge of the spool end just below the letter (Fig. 6) so, by placing the cut-off edge against the edge of a ruler (Fig. 6) It will be possible to priut the letter exactly straight, and also get the letters of a word In a straight line. After you have a complete alphabet alpha-bet of large single-letter stamps, try your hand at preparing a stamp with a word or name upon It, like that shown in Fig. 7. Picture stamps are no more difficult diffi-cult to make than letter stamps, but require larger pieces of rubber. Figs. 8 and 9 show two possibilities for picture-making with the rubber stamp parts of a mule, and Figs. 12 and 13 two pictures made with tbe rubber stamp parts of :. little girl. Diagrams of the six stamps required re-quired for the mule picture are given M ' &3) I J in "Fig. 10 A for the body. B for the .ieck and head, C the ears, D the thighs, E the hock and hoof of the legs, and F the tail. For a small set of stamps you may cut out the patterns; pat-terns; for a larger picture you may enlarge them. Fig. 11 shows how to make holders by tacking pleoes of cigar-box wood to spool ends. Diagrams of the stamps for the little girl pictures are shown In Fig. 14A for the body. B for the head. C the upper arms, D the forearmi, j E the legs, and F the hat. |
