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Show WOMAN'S WORLD HomeSewing Demands Attention to Details Be Smart! I $H1 Stitch Side Seams Before Joining Waistline To have the waistline fit properly, proper-ly, it's necessary to prefit the garment gar-ment and to prepare the garment properly before joining the bodice with the lower half of the garment. Amateurs frequently feel it is easier to sew the waistline and then follow this by joining the side seams. Well, it certainly is easier to sew this way, but the waistline will rarely fit properly. It is either too high or too low! On some dresses which require a stiff waist, you many insert an inner belt to keep the waistline firm. Among the new sheer dresses now appearing, an elasticized waist is sometimes used so the dress gathers softly and evenly. With an inner belt, join the seam first, then insert the belt, basting it to the seam. Let these Tips Guide When Making Pockets ' Pockets are not hard to make, and they frequently add value as well as decoration to the garment. Patch pockets, which are frequently fre-quently used on house dresses and aprons, children's clothing, and the like, are easiest to make. They must be absolutely true and' even. A cardboard pattern is best to use for cutting evenly. Baste before stitching. Top edges of pockets are finished first. In lightweight fabrics, this edge is hemmed. In heavier fabrics, fab-rics, cover the raw edge with seam bindipg after turning the edge, then hem and pin pocket on the garment. Check your accuracy in placing it before stitching. By Ertta Haley can cut. Baste and fit my I clothes" says an amateur . c,,ess "but something's wrong seT Z At of my sleeves and how can I remedy these Stalls of completing a garment ,wnUy offer a problem to those K ave just begun to sew. Fre-too. Fre-too. we find that even f - who have made garments Time time are still at a loss to bow tome basic construction problems are solved nne of the main difficulties Jmes in fitting sleeves. This "sv to understand because there L three places for most sleeves fit at the shoulder where the Abeve joins the garment, at the low because of the movement - the arm, and, finally, at the i f st or cuff, if yu are working ; on the long sleeve. ' a you are using a pattern, you i may be certain that the sleeve ' flt the armhole, as this has ' becn pre-tested. However, use a eat deal of caution in cutting with the pattern. If the sleeve pat-f pat-f tern moves even slightly on the ma-terial ma-terial during the cutting, it will - twist during the wearing. Note, too, the mark for straight !o( the goods in placing the pattern f on the fabric. Lay the fold of the i - Fit tleevei at shoulder . . . - pattern on the straight fabric a grain Cut the whole pattern, but par-1 par-1 ticularly the sleeves, when you i are at leisure and at ease. You 1 can't hope to correut cutting faults to the fitting. 'fitting the Sleeve Requires Patience On long sleeves, either the three-jj three-jj quarter or full length, you will note It Try on before stitching. that there are darts at the elbow which permit activity. Be certain " jou include the material for these Cin cutting no matter how strange the sleeve pattern looks. Those wonderfully soft pastel wools that are top favorites for resort wear now have brought about an accompanying hat fashion: the matching felt, swathed in net or mallne, and the lacy turban of net or frothiest froth-iest ice-wool crochet. In the soft pinks, blues, pistachio greens and other pastel colors of sheer wool, the effect is a new and entrancing en-trancing "confection" of a hat. The swathed turbans give a wonderful background for the jeweled touch of scatter pins or a single large pin. Some of the puffed sleeves will also look peculiar because of their fullness. However, when properly gathered, they are designed to fit. Sleeves should not be fitted high on the shoulder to eliminate the soft fold of the waist at the front and back. The sleeve will tear out. If you have a model, this helps In fitting sleeves. It cannot do the job completely, though. You'll have to try on the garment and move your shoulders and arms about while you check the fit. Have your shoulder pads ready to insert when you fit the sleeve. These should be inserted before the fitting. fit-ting. You thould not do the final stitching before trying on sleeves with shoulder pads. Pads Vary with Fabric Which is Used Little padding is used currently on sleeves because the soft rounded, natural shoulder line is being hailed. However, most shoulder lines are improved if a slight padding is inserted in-serted to improve shoulder irregularities. irregu-larities. The shape of the pad varies with the material used in sewing the garment. gar-ment. The large triangles are used for woolens and some of the stiff, heavy silk and rayon materials. Small, long or round-shaped pads are considered con-sidered best for the sheer fabrics, including the sheer woolens which are now so favored. For washable fabrics, you'll find that gathered taffeta serves quite well. Raglan sleeves usually take a pie-shaped pad, with the broad edge wide enough to extend across the shoulder line. Join one point to the shoulder or top of the sleeve while the other points are placed where yoke and sleeve meet. If you have one shoulder higher than the other, make a heavier and larger pad for the lower shoulder to even the shoulder line. 1 |
