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Show FASHION CLEANINGS FROM PARIS The Separate Blouse Shows The Addition Ad-dition of a High Collar. Sand And Putty Colored Waists 1 a J Now York, Feb. 5 It is Bald that I Berlin has been much tho same dur-1 ing tho war as at other times, excepting except-ing for tho war spirit, and tho grief at tho bulletin boards, it has been tho Kaisers wish that things should bo as unaffected as possible, and, as I ho' Is well beloved, as well as feared, tho people, especially tho women have shown their grief but little. In Paris tho fear of Invasion was great, and Immediately things were fabrics reports that h0 la furnishing matorlals to tho Callot Sisters, Clio- ! rult, 1'rcmet and Beer. Tho theators are oponlng and many aro crowded, but not by tho fashionable fashion-able uudlcnce that ono would expect If under different circumstances. The I women of Paris aro avoiding tho ox- tremes which havo always been their j liobby in stylo. Tho very tight skirt has been dlscardod, but tho very full r skirt which was thought would by i this timo bo the Parisian stylo of I . tho moment, has not as yot been ful- ly accepted. Howover, tho gowns e closed no lights wore allowed, the cafes could not bo opon, tho theaters h wore shut down, and a curfow told I peoplo that tholr lights must bo out. It was natural that this should affect i business, but now things havo chang- i ed and aro taking on a much more normal outlook. Tho dressmaking houses which havo kept open aro doing business, with tho United States at least, and Itodlcr, tho groat manufacturer of which were worn by tho actresses had certain elements worth remembering. remem-bering. A dross of black volvot, which was worn by a French actress, had long, tight fitting sloevos and a square, I low nock, with a Medici collar in tho back. Tho skirt was full and was drawn In around tho bottom. A longth of the volvot was draped over tho hips and ondod in a train. Tho en-tiro en-tiro gown was devoid of trimming which gave a richness, that no amount of embellishment could have aided. Long alcoves aro to be soon on all I gowns. I askod a prominent Now York drossmakor not long ago If she would make- long sleeves for summer and sho replied: "I most certainly will unless my customer Insists otherwise. oth-erwise. A charming afternoon dress is pictured pic-tured herewith which shows somewhat some-what tho boloro effect, together with tho long sleeves, which uro most striking features of tho present Byles. Tho waist Ib mado with an under-ualst under-ualst of crepo do Chlno with tho bolero effect In wldo laco. Tho sleeves of tills outer waist are short and of tho lace, while long net i sleeves extend to tho wrist. Tho skirt of crepo do Chlno Is shirred several sev-eral times at tho waist and hips and Is finished at tho top with a frill of itself. Three graduated bands of net aro tho only trimming on tho skirt. This Is a frock which may bo worn again and aguln, ns Its long sleoves and high collar glvo It a ills-I ills-I tlnct.y daytlmo air, whllo tho nintorl-I nintorl-I ul makes It elaborato enough for many evening functions. Tho separato waist takes on different dif-ferent features with tho changing of tho season and thero Is no end to tho numerous models, although they all bear a resemblance ono with tho i other. This season the high collar has been tho newest noto In those waists. A few good models havo been mado with tho high collar, but It Is much harder to achlovo than tho waist with tho round, wedge, or rolling collars. col-lars. Somo of tho waists are mado with a V neck and a high collar abovo it, leaving a little of tho neck or chest1 exposed. Tills Is unlnuo but gives such a look of something loft out, or unfinished that It is scarcely popular. popu-lar. Others are mado with a straight band around the neck and a ruff of net or chiffon abovo and below It. Tho best of tho high nocked waists button straight up tho front, from .j A s7 life tho walstlino to top of tho collar. A stunning waist which I saw not long ago was mado with tho collar In one with tho body of tho waist, tho shoulder seam extending Into tho side Boam of the collar. This collar col-lar wrinkles around tho nock charm-Ingly charm-Ingly and was hold from working down Into a string around tho neck by bones at tho back and sides of of tho collar. It does not scorn possible, that these high collarud blouses and fiocks will altogether suporsodo tho low collars which v havo been wearing wear-ing for bo long. Tho women havo folt tho comfort of doing without anything about tho throat, tho nocks havo revived from tho old tight collars col-lars and become moro beautiful and It does not seem as though they could consent to tho wearing of them on everything ngaln. There Is no way to toll Just what tho Hngorlo waist of tho summer will bcconio. Thero is said to bo a revival re-vival of the old "button In the back" waUts and trimmings of braid and buttons In military effect In tho front. Dainty voile waists aro shown, some pin tucked and others of the plain material trimmed with wash-ablo wash-ablo cord or braid and llttlo soft crochet buttons and with a dainty collar which stands high In tho bac& but does not keop the front of tho neck from being frco and open to tho air. Overblouso and coateo effects aro very popu or und will no doubt bo used, especially for tho very dressy waists. Tho chiffon or chiffon cloth blouso of putty, sand, or biscuit colors aro ery binnrt and very practical this winter. They aro mado with high iollars nnd usually button straight up tho fiont with small Bilk covered buttons. Tho waist of crepo do Chlno Chl-no Is also very good, especially whero mado with largo rovers which fall gracolu ly In tho front. In nn illustration I show a now blouso, collarless, with the neck cut in the Callot squaro, which Is most becoming and far loss trying than tho usual squaro or Dutch neck. Tho model Is developed In craquolo not and untrlmmod, except for a cord outlining tho neck. Tho skirt worn with this wnlst Is an excellent ono for tho separato Bklrt, ns it Is mado with n yok0 and front in one and pleats at tho side, causing the 3kirt to Haro In tho up to dato manner man-ner at tho Bides. |