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Show SHI IS USED IN WINTER HUTS i More Seasonableness in Headgear Head-gear Is Shown This Season Sea-son Than Last. EVENING HAT WITH LOW GOWN New Onee Are Made of Cloth of Silver and Gold Metallic Net and Lace, the Brims Transparent Rue-elan Rue-elan Headgear Reversed. The fSCt Mint the milliners have taken up satin for several shapes In Iks new millinery will contribute toward to-ward more seasonableness of headgear this wi.iter than last. No one objects to satin, especially If It Is In black or In a dark color, as n relief and offset off-set to the black velvet hats that have been worn so unremittingly that one began to think that the milliners had lost all power of origlnullty in choosing choos-ing fabrics. There have been several seasons In which black velvet dominated, but there has never been anything to equal the last six months. At any forgathering for-gathering of women, the black velvet bat was as seemingly necessary to the costume as the steel helmet to the soldier. sol-dier. Shapes differed, ornamentation varied, but the hat was black velvet, and on this fabric were rung the slight changes that the milliners Invented. Women do not tire of idack velvet hats any more than they tire of blue serge suits and frocks. They are the bread and water of fashions. The only time that the Velvet hat grows wearisome in the eyes of the average woman is when the first snows fall and the fashionables turn their atten- .'. .,,...i,,,i",,i.,, I pi in, in i ,mLi !! :.';.-.. V,'.;.;v!:V.V.:..i X'-W ''.'.''''-'.'.''.'.;.; ':.'.' ' .' -: :. ; j . ,! Jnam'-v'.-V "' ''-'-'' Yr:":':'-' Vi'i't'i'i' i'i'-' ''--''-'-'-) tion to the pines. Then the average woman wants to discard velvet and get anything she can as a substitute; ami today, satin Is wisely offered as a compromise between winter and summer sum-mer millinery. There are also satin hats In all the shades that nature gives to a dahlia, for America, as well as France, has decided that these purplish tones are excessively good-looking und Is repeating re-peating them throughout costumery Willi excellent effect. The brilliant purple that was advocated advo-cated at the beginning of the season has boon cohity grossed, but the deep purples that are almost on blue and black ure found to agree with every kind of gown and coat worn. The shapes of the new hats reveal no long-disguised secrets on the part .f the millinery. The Husslan turban in Its original form Is abandoned, but tbete la an undoubted suggestion from the Muscovite turban In the new hat that Is a reversal of the old meaning (tint the high point of the brim In front Is now turned to the hack, and Instead of the ornament being placed against this part of the brim, it Is kept in front. Russian Style Paaae. The national Russian headdress has been worn a bit threadbare in some of the cheaper hats, but its original glory Is retained by the brides who are arranging these crowns with the point in fiout. us u setting for the tulle veil. There Is another Influence at work among some of the milliners, which suggests the field hats worn by the rCuropean armies in the early part of the nineteenth century. These turbans tur-bans ure of satin, with the brim turned so high that the crown vanishes, van-ishes, and elongated ut the sides und flattened at the back. One of the n.st of these French shapes is made of black satin, the top of the extra nigh, upturned brim edged with u fringe of aigrettes. The main points to remember In the tow bals are the tightness of the headband in t I turbana, the even Hue winch is carried out around the bead, the eliiiilmilioii of more than one ornament or-nament and the tendency to hold lo HI a vie ornamenistlun Instead of any itlier. X 1 , The Chinese mandarin tut ban (Vhlch has conic Into tilst fjisblon along with the Chinese fabrics utn. ornaments imported to this country to (III the place of the Ijllopeatl Importations, Im-portations, s strangely In keeping with some of the Ittissian shapes, and even j the colors of the Chinese ornanietit j which hangs from the button at the. top, closely resemble llfse used by tins Slavs. Well, there were dns in tht. j Formation Of the races on this planet when the Mongolian and the Russian were closely mingled. Qenghll Khun left many Mongolian traces In that vast bit of territory known ns Russia, nnd it may be that the hat was one. The Transparent Brim. Since the advent of the evening hat as an adjunct to the low gown when ( one Is dining in restaurants, there has come Into the fashions an entirely new kind of millinery. These new things are nfternoon hats de luxe. All thut the milliners wanted a woman to wear In the afternoon, and against which she rebelled for many reasons, she Is bappy to wear at night. It has given her a good opportunity to exploit the wide brim, which motoring, (lancing and skating have put somewhat In tho background. These brims ure transparent. Cur-toonists Cur-toonists used to druw amusing pictures pic-tures of women using brims of hats as u substitute for veils, und the idea was considered capricious nml attractive attrac-tive j und, suddenly, R is tuken seriously. seri-ously. Metallic net and bullion lace are used for these wide brims, nnd the hut is tilted so far forward over the eyebrows that it Is an easy mntter mnt-ter to look upward through the fabric. The fashion hns nlso led to women doing up their eyes a bit In the Oriental Orien-tal manner, so ns to make them more significant ami expressive under the half-concealing m tul tissue. The (Towns of these large evening hats nre made of crystals, of closely crushed roses and of heavy metal embroidery em-broidery on tulle or sntln, but there are no feathers. The much vaunted oa trlch feather, which was tuken up h the best of the French designers In September, did not gain a place In the affections of the public, nnd the musketeer hat that Talbot revived, with Its sweeping plumes and its likeness like-ness to those worn by the women of the elghteeeiith century In England, was taken up only by the Individual who wanted something different from her neighbor. It may be safely said that In choosing choos-ing an evening hat or one for the afternoon. aft-ernoon. If you have the social opportunity oppor-tunity to exploit so ornamental an article, It Is wise to Just look Into the. metallic tabrlCS and go no further. The straight sailor of cloth of silver or gold Is not used for the evening, but Is kept for the street, strangely enough, and Is sometimes worn with severe black velvet gowns In the aft ernoon. Makes Alluring Picture. It Is at.Jts very best In the lattet selling. The woman who can wear a simply cut, medieval frock of black Chiffon velvet, with Its slightly open neck, absence of collar ami full sleeves caught in with au embroidered embroid-ered band ut the wrist, and a straight Reboux sailor of oxidized cloth of silver, Is sure of turning herself into an alluring picture. It Is not within the power of ever) woman to look well in a metallic bat, ' If she will be fashionable at the coat of her appearance, lei her take baa courage In both hands and defy opinion opin-ion ; hut If she will compromise with fashion and her appearance and will see to it that flesh pink tulle Is "ild somewhere In the Intricacies of the metallic lace or embroidery that makes j up the brim, she can frankly line ti j wide, transparent brim with a double , thickness or plaiting of flesh pink , tulle. This will make a hat more strik-i strik-i lug and effective than if the harshness of Its metallic threads Is left un touched by a softening veil. Probabljf the best of these models Is one that has a crown entirely of faint blush roses mounted on gold net ' which Is pulled In and out of the flowers, flow-ers, and u brim that tills a hit In front, made of tine gold lace mounted nn flesh pink tulle. Across (he back of i the brim there Is u wide, clghteenth-j clghteenth-j century bow of blush pink velvet. All of these evening huts are worn i with low gowns more often than with . half-high ones, but so far they have not been adopted ut the thenter, for few women nre willing to go back to the Inconvenient days of holding a large hat on their laps, or, falling In the attempt to hold it, spend most of ; their time frantically grabbing It to 1 keep It from slipping, or picking It up , from under the heels of the man who goes out between the nets. (Copyright. 117. by the McC'bire Newipu- ! i Syndicate ) |