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Show Borne girded j WOMAN'S CROWN OF BEAUTY. (From the Chicago Tribune, by Marian Martineau.) Woman's crown of beauty is her hair. No need to tell her of it. She knows it and recognizes it. . Let a woman's hair begin to fall out, and away she rushes to the druggist to get a tonic. Let it continue to fall and she goes to a massage operator, a good masseuse, one who understands the art of manipulating the scalp in such a manner as to stimulate the roots of the hair. Let her hair grow gray, become faded in tone, or in any way get "out of sorts," for hair 'can really get out of sorts, then there is real trouble, for well a woman knows that her best beauty is threatened. - There may have been some time a beautiful woman, afflicted with a aid ; head. But if so hei name is not on record. All the world's famous women have had good heads of hair, or at least they have bad hair that could be prettily arranged, and the records j have yet to tell of a woman who could be pretty. in.jspite of . poorldiair. .. ! The low-growing hair, giving the forehead that wide, calm look which is demanded by certain, types of beauty, I does not belong to all. Nor are the curling side locks within reach of exerybody. High foreheads are an ; American axiction, but the American woman overcomes the evil a little by the tasteful' ways 'in' which she dresses her hair. Pretty hair should be fluffy, it should be glossy, it should be sufficiently abundant, to clothe the head nicely, and it should be even in color. j . ; The qeustion of color is one that ! bothers every woman with a head of j hair. Her hair may be uneven in tone, shading from light to dark, and looking faded in places. Again it may be actually act-ually streaked with a long light lock trending its way through hair much deeper in color. Or the whole head, while of the same color, may have a curiously cu-riously drab and dull look, without "bloom," as the French put it. Gray hair offers still another problem, prob-lem, one of the most serious of all hair problems. To meet the color question fairly and squarely there is only one thing to be done. If the hair has been neglected and has grown gray, or if it is decidedly de-cidedly streaked, or if it is in any way peculiarly marked by nature, a light streak and a dark one, there is but one solution of the matter, and that solution solu-tion is hair dye. The hair must be made all of one color and to do this select the best dye obtainable, and follow directions. There are home-made dyes that are not as good, and it is unsafe to experiment with them. Buy, therefore, the best, and do not deviate by as much as one hair's breadth from the printed rules for use. , But these cases are the extreme ones, the cases that occur only once in a while. And the rules which hold for these rare ones are not applicable to the others. For the majority of -women the best treatment for the hair, consists in the right kind of a shampoo, in a skillful skill-ful massaging, in a little clever handling hand-ling afterwards; -and-that is all. Hair that is faded and drab looking has been knoivn' to. redeem itself under un-der the familiar egg shampoo. Take a half cake of oily soap. Select one that is ' rocemmended for its oily properties, and put it on the stove to melt, cutting it . first in 'little pieces. Let it rest in a. double boiler and cover it with a pint of water. 'When melted re- I move from 'the fire and let cool. Beat into the cold, soapy water one egg and add a few droos of ammonia. ' '..-?- ... . .-'. In dealing with mixtures in which there is ammonia or melted soup :i great deal of care must be taken that the eyes are not Injured. It is best to have an assistant -who w ill operate the soapy mixture while the patient rests her head against the edge of the wash, basin, a towel held to her eyes. This mixture should lather easily and is intended for the massage of the scalp and hair. Nevtr rub soap directly upon the hair, for it sticks and cannot be re-i re-i moved w ith ever so many washings, hut the mixture, on the other hand, is easily- managed. . In washing clothes it is the custom to allow them lo remain awhile in the suds. So. ,!n washing the hair, the head should remain saturated for a few minutes, that the soapy water may do its cleansing work. Let the operator manipulate the suds for, say, live minutes. min-utes. , The rinsing should In? done with a spray. The little sprayer . with which flowers the sprinkled is. better: than nothing, but it really costs so little to own a pipe of lubber with a sprinkler attached to it that most -women are willing to afford the little luxury. The water should be hot at first, then cold. With home-made contrivances it is difficult to. regulate, the heat, but it can be done; and the 'result is a clear, sweet-smelling scalp. .The matter of drying is. managed in, various ways, one of which is by continual con-tinual fanning. Stretching the hair out in the sun is good, while hanging it before be-fore a grate fire, if the weather will permit, is best of all. However, it is done, the "hair should be . well dried and there should be no thick, eliglng feeling to it. A dainty custom of scenting the locks comes from Paris. A little cap of ifine muslin, filled with sachet powder, t is slipped on over the head and the I hair is bundled up into it. A permanent perma-nent scent is thus imparted. An excellent scent.- for the hair is. i made from oil of rosegeranium. Take I a few drops of trie oil and add a third ! of the quantity of glycerine. Pour upon absorbent cotton and roll the cot-ten cot-ten around until quite a piece is moistened. mois-tened. Now spread outthe cotton until it makes a :lat piece 'like a pancake and sew it into thin silk. This can be placed in the crown of the little scented scent-ed cap to impart an extra fragrance to the hair. Be careful and remember that you are dealing with an oil. If left on more than fifteen minutes it will oil the hair too much. All sorts of devices for perfuming the h$jr are employed, one of these being the tying of a ribbon around the head at night to which are attached little soft sachet bags, all hanging from ribbons rib-bons of different lengths. No hair scent is ever permanent. It must be often renewed. Just as your dinner must be eaten daily, so also must your scent or sachet give forth its daily supply. . When you come to think of it, perfumery should not "last" should not be expected to do so. But it should be renewed every day. Hair which shows dandruff in an unpleasant un-pleasant manner needs shampooing. That is the first step in its cure. Often that which is mistaken for dandruff is merely dust and will disappear if the hair be treated frequently to a shampoo. sham-poo. But in no case should the hair be washed more frequently than once in two weeks, and the head which seems to require more washing is in a poor condition. Nothing cures dandruff as. quickly as oiling the head. This seems to heat the scalp and to remove all tendency to a scaly condition. But oil, on the other hand, is unpleasant un-pleasant and the scalp must be cured without causing the hair to become greasy or to suffer in any way.. A famous singer applied to a .hair specialist for treatment, complaining of excess of dandruff. The specialist began be-gan by manipulating the scalp thoroughly, thor-oughly, though lightly, with almond oil. The quantity used was small and the scalp was thoroughly gone over. Perhaps Per-haps a few drops did the whole work. After a week of this treatment, massaging mas-saging the scalp every other day with the tips of the fingers anointed, with the oil, the singer's scalp was entirely-healed. entirely-healed. While gray hair is honorable, it Is not always pretty or becoming.- Seldom does the possessor enjoy it. .To prevent gray hair there is nothing like taking care of the hair while the roots are young and vigorous. A shampoo' once a month, a little light brushing, twice a week for five minutes with a soft brush letting down the hair at night, dressing it in different ways, so that the pins do not always come on the same spots, nourishing the roots with a good tonic all these things tend to keep the hair from growing gray.. Roots that have grown feeble can be stimulated by' a light massage. Lift the hair lightly with the fingers, just so that the scalp is massaged with the finger tips. This is the Ireatnientad; vised for those w ho find the' hair gray or out of condition. Golden hair 4s frequently produced by shampooing the hair with hot water wa-ter in which a little washing soda is dissolved. The soap-should be kitchen fcoap. and after it is rinsed off then the washing soda is used. Finally the hair is well rinsed and dried in the sun. This will sreatly. brighten hair, that is inclined to be a drabbish hue instead of the ruddy gold that is so much admired. ad-mired. But , the process is apt to be harmful and is not recommended. A correspondent who signs herself Mrs. J. R., writes that her hair is get-tin,-; thin, 'and that she dreads baldness. bald-ness. "I; wash my hair -often," says she, "and fcrush it for fifteen jhinutes every night Z before retiring. Yret it continues to jtome .out.' The: latest theory in hair preservation is that hair'can be best preserved by letting it alone. A limited amount of neglect improves the hair. This is particularly demonstrated in the case of men who become bald, universally, uni-versally, at an early age. Poor men, men who work hard and who hav no time to spend upon shampoos and fancy brushes do not complain of baldness. bald-ness. It is the man of wealth, the one who washes his head at least once a day and maybe three times, who brushes it vigorously a doze"n times a day with a stiff hair brush, who puts on perfumes, and who otherwise ill treats his scalp, this is the man who becomes bald. The man with less tims and opportunity preserves his head of hair all his life. The woman who finds herself getting bald should not use a hair brush any oftener than is absolutely necessary; she should not wash her head more frequently fre-quently than once in six weeks; she shld use lialcohol on her. head; sh? should not wear a -switch if she lean help it; and she should give her hair a chance. Don't worry the roots. Hair is the hardest thing in the world to kill.' Let it alone and you will never be bald, or the chances of your becoming bald will be greatly lessened. LONGFELLOW AND THE LILACS. Every year when the lilac buds begin to burst fheir sheaths and until the full-bloom clusters have spent themselves them-selves in the early summer air, the remembrance re-membrance of Longfellow something of his presence wakes with us in the morning and recurs with every fragrant fra-grant breeze. "Now" is the time to come to Cambridge." he would say; "the lilacs are getting ready to receive you.'' It was the most .natural thing in the world that he should care for this common flower, because, in spite of a fine separateness from . dusty levels which "every one felt Avho approached him, he was first of all a seer of beauty in common things and a singer to the universal heart. Ave Maria. |