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Show Page 12 THE OGDEN VALLEY NEWS Volume X Issue IV June 1, 2004 Six Steps to Natural Lawn Care Healthy lawns grow on healthy soil. These practices, recommended by turf professionals, will help build fertile soil and vigorous deep-rooted lawns. Healthy lawns can resist disease and drought damage and outcompete most weeds without reliance on chemicals. Scientific studies have shown that many commonly used lawn chemicals (such as pesticides, quick release fertilizers, and “weed-and-feed” products) can kill beneficial soil organisms and contribute to soil compaction, thatch buildup, and lawn diseases. They may also harm human health, pets, and wildlife, and contaminate streams and lakes. For a healthy, attractive lawn that’s easy to care for, follow these proven practices: 1. Mow higher, mow often, and leave the clippings on the lawn. Set mowing heights up to about 2.5 inches for most lawns to develop deeper roots and crowd out weeds. (Bentgrass = 1.5”) Mow when the grass gets 50% taller than the desired height. Mow regularly, even on summer-dormant lawns, to keep weeds from setting seed. Leave the clippings on the lawn. “Grasscycling” provides free fertilizer, helps lawns grow greener and denser, and doesn’t cause thatch buildup. (Thatch is last year’s woody roots and stems, not clippings.) Mow when the grass is dry and keep mower blades sharp for best results. When it’s time to buy a new mower, consider a “mulching” mower. They chop clippings finely and blow them down onto the lawn so they disappear. Check out the mulching mower ratings in each June’s issue of Consumer Reports. 2. Fertilize lightly in the fall with a “natural-organic” or “slow-release” fertilizer. Natural fertilizers release nutrients slowly throughout the year, won’t leach away, and support the variety of soil organisms that improve fertility and combat diseases. Healthy lawns are a lighter “meadow” green color. Deep blue-green lawns are over-fertilized and unhealthy, more prone to disease, thatch buildup, and drought damage. Fertilize lightly! Fertilize in the fall to build the grass plant’s nutrient reserves. Never fertilize in early spring because that makes grass grow too fast and robs its reserves. Late spring and early fall are O.K. to fertilize too, but late fall is the single best time. Remember, grasscycling returns valuable nutrients to the soil every time you mow! 3. Water deeply to moisten the root zone, but infrequently. Grasses do best when the whole root zone is wetted, and then dries out between waterings. Avoid frequent shallow watering that causes poor root development. Just Listed! Huntsville 6 BD, 2.5 BA Over 1 acre. Gorgeous lake & mountain. views! $349,000! Huntsville Spacious home on 5 AC. Some finish work still needed. Reduced to $249,900! Over watering also promotes lawn disease. Aerate (or dethatch) if water won’t penetrate the surface because of soil compaction, steep slopes, or thatch buildup. Water about one inch per week in midsummer. Water slowly, or start and stop so the water penetrates rather than puddling and running off. Don’t water in the heat of the day—it wastes water and may promote disease. 4. Improve old lawns with aeration, overseeding, and top dressing with compost. Aerate in spring or fall. Use a rented power-aerator for best results. Or insert a garden fork 6” deep every four inches and lever back to loosen the soil. Overseed, after raking or aerating to expose soil, with a seed mix designed for Mountain West conditions—talk to a knowledgeable nursery-person or call your local USU County Extension for seed recommendations. Top dress with fine compost (screened to 3/8-inch) one-quarter inch deep, raked out so the grass stands up through it. May or mid-September are the best times for aerating, over-seeding, and top dressing. Dethatch in early spring if thatch accumulates over 1/2 inch thick, or decompose thatch slowly by aerating and top dressing. Overseed after dethatching to keep weeds out. Reduce fertilizer levels and over-watering, and aerate if needed, to avoid future thatch buildup. 5. Avoid using pesticides, quick-release fertilizers, and “weed-and-feed.” These products can damage soil and lawn health and pollute our waterways. Pesticides and “weed-and-feed” may also harm people, pets, and wildlife. Accept a few “weeds,” particularly clover that improves the soil. Target the ugly weeds, leave the others. Remove weeds by hand in spring and fall (pincer-type weed pullers work great in moist soil), or spot-spray problem weeds (read and follow herbicide label warnings.). Crowd out weeds by growing a dense lawn. Mow higher, leave the clippings, fertilize properly, and improve thin areas with aeration, overseeding, and top dressing. A Brief History of Lacrosse Lacrosse is the oldest sport in North America, with its origin dating back to the 1400s. It did not become generally known and talked about however, until the 1600s when a Jesuit missionary named Jean de Brebeuf saw the Hyron Indians play it. In a report to his superiors, he stated little about the actual play of the game but seemed to be intrigued by the stick the Indians used while playing. Jean de Brebeuf likened the stick the Indians competed with, to the “crosier” carried at religious ceremonies by a bishop. Thus, the name la crosse evolved, and this later became simply “lacrosse.” Indian lacrosse was a mass game and often teams were made up of one hundred to one thousand braves on each side. The goals were usually five-hundred yards to one-half mile apart. On occasion, the goals could be separated by several miles. Usually a large rock or tree was considered the goal and a score was recorded by hitting the rock or tree with a ball. Some tribes used goal posts six to nine feet apart, and the ball had to pass between them for a score, much like today’s game. Games lasted from sunup to sundown and stretched over the course of two or three days. Lacrosse games were originally used to toughen braves for actual combat. There were even times when games were played between two tribes to settle their differences or disputes. It was not until the early 1800s that the French pioneers started playing lacrosse seriously. With their participation in the sport came the first signs of turning lacrosse into a more civilized game. Canadian dentist W. George Beers standardized the game in 1867 with the adoption of set field dimensions, limits to the number of players per team, and other basic rules. Little did the French settlers know that they would be credited for being the forefathers of lacrosse, along with the Indians. New York University fielded the nation’s first college team in 1877, and Philips Andover Academy (Mass.), Philips Exeter Academy (NH.) and the Lawrenceville School (N.J.) were the nations’ first high school teams in 1882. In the early 1900s lacrosse became recognized as a “force to be reckoned with.” It was during this time that the game was first played in Olympic competition, and the United States Intercollegiate Lacrosse League (USILL) was formed. In 1926, the USILL was replaced by the United States Intercollegiate Lacrosse Association, which is still the governing body of lacrosse today. Lacrosse continued to grow in America during the mid 1900s, and today the game is played by over 500 colleges and universities, as well as over 1400 high schools countrywide. Women’s lacrosse is booming too. Over 100 colleges and universities, along with 150 high schools, currently sponsor programs. Note: Information taken from the Internet. Weber High School Lacrosse Team in the State Championships 6. Consider alternatives to grass for steep slopes, shady areas, or near streams and lakes. Grass grows best in well-drained soil on level or gently sloping areas, in full sun. Leave a natural vegetation buffer along streams to filter pollutants and protect fish and wildlife. Avoid use of herbicides near streams, ditches, wetlands, and shorelines. The Weber High School lacrosse team played in the State Championships on May 22 at the Weber State University stadium in Ogden. The Weber High School team holds a third place ranking in the conference. The Weber High School lacrosse team includes: Zarin Ficklin, Kevin Barker, Nelson Payne, McKell Southwick, Kyle Shaw, Dave Steiner, Dave Stevenson, Tyler King, Tim Waite, Tyler Aikens, Darin Isakson, Orin Long, Shem Lemmon, Kyle Hinchcliff, Ryan Rottler, Jordan West, Stan Vincent, Craig Mock, and Justin Davies. Team members from Ogden Valley include Matt Fischer, Kari Frazier, Cody Clawson, Nick Lowe, Rhett Ferrin, Kyle Layton, Alix Shupe, Devin Allen, and Brody Layton. Spectacular Huntsville home on 1.6 acres, 5BD, 3.5 BA office Reduced to $524,900! Just Listed! Incredible setting. Pine tree forest. 6 BD, 2 BA, barn, 1.9 acres. Must see! $250,000! Just Listed! Beautiful home on 4.89 ac. Over 6500 sq.ft. Mother-in-law apartment $535,000 Just Listed! 3 Bedrooms, 2 Baths, 1.12 acres Just Listed! Huntsville 3 BD 3. BA, on 2.13 acres. Horse barn, 30’x49’ shop Country Living! Comfy 3BD, 2.5 BA, office, FR,on .92 acre. horse property. $237,200! Eden Mini-Ranch 1.69 acre 3 BD, 2 BA, w/full basement ready to finish. $215,900! Just Listed! Exquisite 3 Bedrooms, 2 Baths, in Fairway Oaks $259,900! $275,000! $250,000 3.22 acre Evergreen Estates rec. lot. $32,000 Build Your Dream Home. 2.64 acres $89,500 Patio Springs bldg lot. cul-de-sac, level lot. $56,500 Mtn Green bldg. Approx. 1.8 AC, $154,500 Liberty 2 BD, 2 BA plus full unfin- Radford Hills executive home w/ Over 4700 Sq. Ft.! Beautiful Just Listed! Mountain Green ished basement. 94 acres incredible views! 2 BD, 2BA, office, 3-car garage on 1 acre $325,000! 6 BD, 3 BA, ex- tra shop, new paint, magnificent views. $310,000! Over 6100 sq.ft. 1.6 acres on quiet road. Spectacular views. $449,900! $154,900! Just Listed! Huntsville2 beautiful 1.78 acre bldg lots, horse property, irrigation, culinary $99,900 each 2 building lots on Aspen Dr. Lots back to Wolf Creek Golf Course. Stream, lots of trees. Approx. 1 ac each. Incredible location. $129,900 each! Lots of Space! 6 BD, 3 BA 2.3 AC. $279,900! Easy Fit Within Your Budget! 5 BD, 2 BA, rambler on 1 AC! new kitchen, Reduced to $174,900! Huntsville Cove at River Run 3 BD, Unfinished basement Gorgeous home. 2 acres. $359,900! Nordic Valley area building lot. 2.95 acres. Stream and lots of trees. $89,900! Dyan Gill 801-644-5853 |