Show H6 The Salt Lake Tribune TRAVEL Sunday July 24 1994 rules strangely you will find service replaces stuffiness You can easily move around on foot or via the clearly marked buses that serve the key attractions with map in hand Wear your heirloom jewelry and feel as free as he wind while enjoying everything from cabaret and jazz to g opera ballet concerts and sports Begin at the Palace du Casino one of Europe's most photographed and timeless squares The architecture here is among the best in all France Twinkling fountains and terraced gardens front Europe's first casino dating to 1863 The spacious palace-likbuilding is decorated with grand Ionic columns huge chandeliers fine mahogany wood frescoes paintings and antiques Fortunes have been won and lost Roulette is the most popular game credit is not extended and the dress code dictates tie and jacket for men With one pull on the giant slot machine guests bet from $200000 to $600000 To smooth over the disappointment they have a late dinner at the Louis XV restaurant in the Hotel de Paris The room embraced by celebrity chef Alain Ducasse is a three Monaco's lifestyle: Living well is the best revenge Continued from III self-guidin- H-- 1 bare-chest- ed g bottles Before leaving the hotel it is a tradition to rub the knee of the bronze horse bearing Louis XIV near the entrance Everyone from Errol Flynn to Cornelius Vanderbilt Arthur de Rothschild Alexandre Dumas GOO long-standin- Few hustlers Unemployment is not a factor and there are few homeless beggars prostitutes or hustlers The government and Royal Family have waived income and inheritance tax and military service A lady from brussels remarked -- Monte Carlo is so clean it makes my city look like a pig stall The people here live well Its easy to know — just sit on a park bench and sniff the perfume that drifts by" Because the principality's high standards are consistent the destination is a refreshing stressfree-- and Prince Napoleon have touched the famed statue To the right of the casino is the tar destination in the Canadian Rockies but few people hike be yond the end of the lake From then on the view gets better as the cliffs and glaciers get closer The trail that leads above Peyto Lake is popular as well but not may go farther than the main vantage point Beyond that is a spectacular steep-sidevalley with big glaciers And so many people want to go and stand in the Athabasca Glacier that few stop at Sunwapto Pass just to the south a prettier place with good views from the higher peaks The world travelers who come to the parks Banff especially have spawned a number of hotels and lodges that cater to luxurious-vacationers Luxury indeed! Wandering out of the mountains into the Chateau Lake Louise the most famous lodge in the Canadian Rockies is nothing short of culture shock Personal ly the whole scene the valet parking and $20 meals and with fur shop make me a bit depressed Budget traveler beware! Due to the area's popularity coupled with remoteness and high government taxes things get pricey Finding a $100 motel room requires little searching gas costs upwards of $2 per gallon and Banff's Safeway isn't exactly a bargain-hunter- s paradise itself The flipside of this is that the valets in the chateaus sill jump start your car for you should the need arise and no less than 15 different currencies can be exchanged at competitive rates in the Lake Louise The fur coat in the mall however is never on sale Things change drastically in the winter Few venture north of Lake Louise and so few people visit Jasper that a herd of moose can usually be seen grazing by the train depot The road between the two parks is plowed but sees little use It is cold snowy and many services are closed The main attraction is downhill skiing There are four ski areas in the two parks Banff and Jasper are places where the driving tourist does not lose out The 'eel) Ids Parkway is hit after hit One can easily make the drive from Banff to Jasper in a day with sometime leftover for a short walk However there are only two motels between Lake Louise and Jasper and they tend to fill up Continued from II1 d MEI The peaks have sheer cliffs beautiful colors uniquely-shapeglaciers and turquoise lakes at their bases The lakes are turquoise from glacier runoff At the southern end of the park is the town of Banff arguably one of the glitziest little cities in North America Everything about this city says money fashion exuberance class The place brims with Japanese minimutourists To get a Main m-wage a in Street job shop fluent Japanese is standard The town of Jasper has not reached that level yet due to the fact that the north end of the park is less visited One does not come to Banff or Jasper for the culture or shopping however People come here for the mountains To see the mountains to climb the mountains to embrace the mountains The 3000-foo- t north fact of Edith Cavell the sprawling glacier on d Athabasca rators have been Picasso Matisse June Gris Raoul Dufy and Juan t Miro On a zanier note Le Caba- ret only steps from the Casino en- trance is a fast moving Las show with jugglers s-style women waving feathers and a live band The palace dating to the 13th century and home to Prince Rainier Grimaldi and his family sits on a large bluff overlooking the Principality or the Rock as it is called by the residents The changing of the Palace Guard takes place daily precisely at Vega- d e mini-ma- the ruggedly iboine Those wishing to escape the tourists can leave the valleys for the higher peaks on either side of the Icefields Parkway the road that runs north and south through the two parks and connects Banff with Jasper Many trails lead from the road into the wilderness The trails r walks to vary from short one-hou- limitless backcountry routes More ambitious hikers should be prepared for glacier travel and mountaineering erperiences The most popular trails however will lead you not into the wilderness but into numerous family picnics horse manure and hippie gatherings The most popular trails lead in and around Mt Edith Cavell the Athabasca Glacier Angel Glacier Crowfoot Glacier Lake Louise Temple Mountain Moraine Lake Peyto Lake Sunwapta and Athabasca Falls and Bow and Medicine Lakes Lake Louise is the most popu e "iit'toires9 est '174aillue! 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A310- - 22 Sept 8-Oct 1844 - I Ott t Paws usa BRANSON 24-O- PM ' Otage 1111117141 $99 Las Vegas llevada CANADIAN TRAIN 9 days Vancouver to Toronto plus Canadian Rockies and Niagara Falls inctudes airfare and meals Aug 22-3- 0 meals Sept 7:50 6:25 PM 6:40 PM 161109 Nos 3 01 ca $ LJ ith cwsoM Snook As low as $748 per person plus airfare and taxes Aug 28 Sept 4 11 1 18 air 23 meals 11 PIA ALASKA CRUISE SPECIAL 2 FOR Goorgia S tel 4:00 It 1:15 AM 1:25 PM DEEP SOUTH - 9 or 18 Days Louisiana Mississippi Alabama 6A97:gf S49 El TOP 5:45 PM $ I 4e sk! - 1:50 PM TO PM 10:15AM 1 l - 4:45 PM I 1:30 AM (tAggo r ) $149 0 ss okane aloft ii : w 1"""mw 8:15 PM - 4-- France fahv oeourve lovet e'or Now CZ C'2 Soft Lok 26 art fa fit 4e $4911 4 4:40 PM 11:40 AM agog° 3:35 PM ' San Diego S19 qpzuw Diego Los Angeles Oakland plus Hotpot CILASS SOWN Hearst Coate Sig Trees and 12 mats Oct 15-d- ed 9:20 PM nd 10:15 10:15 AM mug HOj7j6ijJfj4ILY 1:35 AM 1:45 AM 1:00 AM 4:00 PM 6:40 1:45 AM 6:25 PM Phoon $49 loto ow PM AM 1010141 9:25 PM PIA cattle WESTERN SIX TEMPLES 9 Days Wan St George Las Vsgas San 7Yit7 - Pogo° OUTSIDE SALT LAKE PIIMIIIIIMOIMMOI 5:45 PM AM o °rod° Spring- t Aitthisviolko 10:50 11:0 NM S:19 141p4001t5q:1 HIE D : i2 ROIE Sun-lan-d '$49 ele 00 'load $19 NO PM 440 PM 815 PM PM not! AM 1:50 PM 4:30 PM eaver 1210 AM 11to°1-- i 'NI PM 0 - 11013r 0 3 : 3:00 10:15 AM AM A 5 i 0 el'AWSON ll 7 rttt - Jeff Schmerket lives in Salt Lake City I 41 7 )enea 111)- In a continent where things become broad and sterile this place does not The mountains knife out of the valleys like sharp bone and knowing there is a town down there with hamburgers and hotels is little consolation when you are high on the bones edge From the crest of one of those bone peaks you can feel the whole country wanting to wake into another morning In the final analysis you don't have to consider what tourists think In the dark you know you can love this place 1 (tiii ll I I Iii) Old Town laced with narrow cobbled streets is on the Rock as is the Oceanographic Museum and Aquarium the exceptional Princess Grace Irish Library and the Prince of Monaco's Private Collection of Classic Cars Nearby are the Tropical Gardens or Jar-di- n Exotique featuring 7000 species of cactus and a view that stretches from Italy to Cape Martin and Cape Ferrat Below just before the French border you can see the cemetery where the beloved Josephine Baker is buried and on the Rock in the Cathedral is the resting place of Princess Grace Monaco is filled with memories Richard Carroll lives in Calif 0 at-4- u111859 am 11:55 minded beautiful glacier sitting at the edge of a cliff on Mt Victoria and the steep rocky point of ASSin- big-tim- Rich tradition The Monte Carlo Ballet Company under the presidency of Princess Caroline is also steeped in history Principal deco- bare-breaste- f 11 1:35 AM Banff and Jasper are jewels in Canadian Rockies Mt Epoque-styl- e Cafe de Paris at busy open-ai- r tables you can see a dead broke fashion-typ- e flashing a diamond on his pinky and wearing an Hermes tie sitting next to a tycoon dressed in ragged jeans who has a yacht stocked with chilled champagne moored in the harbor Request a table near the street Regardless of the principality's part-tim- Belle century-ol- d holiday Illifir g 1 DOD star Michelin beauty ranked among the world's top 10 with a wine cellar numbering 250000 e h e non-existe- nt i and while reading the newspaper with one eye people-watcwith the other Cultural events are the backbone of the hectic nightlife The Casino complex comprises several different sections including L'Opera built in 1878 by Charles Ganger architect of the Paris Opera House and inaugurated by Sarah Bernhardt Forty-fiv- e lyrical works were first performed here including appearances by Caruso Placid° Domingo and Luciano Pavarotti wide-rangin- Bentley Jaguar and BMW faster than you can say "ooh la la" It is a big dip in the wallet for anyone caught littering The mentality is that of a small village placed smack dab in the middle of a fish bowl with candid cameras at every corner The 5000 Monegasques and other French residents know one another their business and what kind of car they own as Crime is almost is graffiti Horrors to anyone crass enough to disgrace their family and the principality No one can remember the last bank robbery and life is so civilized in these parts you can walk the streets late at night without fear of losing anything including your knickers and shoelaces Visitors are spared the parade of jiggling body parts as seen in most sunny climes No one is allowed to stroll about barefoot or in a swimsuit out side the beaches and bathing areas - tit 393-770- 9 (4667747) IN 3739900 PROVO - 24 HOURS CAILY I OFFICE HOURS M - F 8 00 AU - 6 00 FM - 00 PM 8 00 AM - 8 CO FM SAT 9 CO AU - 5 CO FM SUN 9 CO OPEN M - tenetnt wit tem Sottiel chrpt 0459AW '411442ot 14 21 VA) leeirt1 '4 it E 2 'num" ere't Emtbene PleJtilt P'405 44 Al") CAI CV wrIve wreerrM irt riaget aqvgiti: Istirdi::111 Pre o'Pe' 'Pt' |